alternativez

Ok, so I have a digital camera, took some shots, but haven't had time to sit and post them yet. So, now the project is taking a slight turn...for the better. In order to gain some room, I'm just going to have to supercharge the big six and eliminate the distributor. I found (I think) I can invert the body of the intake by judiciously cutting the end ports off just after the injector ports, invert the intake, and reweld. There is a point along the vertical cross-section of all six runners where they are all straight and parallel. I think this may be a job for a professional shop. This allows the use of the original intake shape and volume even if I don't SC, and it lowers the engine clearance below the hood by at least 6.5 inches. Just move the throttle body basically and AFM to the driver's side as I had desired. Yet, it looks perfectly likely a Magnuson/Eaton twin screw SC would sit very nicely right on top of the intake. Later, Jim

Hey, hope everyone has been having a great Christmas. I got just what I've been needing...a digital camera..., so I'll try my fingers at posting some photos in the near future. I have so many projects going, this will seem like one of the slowest swaps ever, but then I've been sitting on this Z for 15 years already, so another year won't make such a difference. It's a complete restoration with body and paint also, so imagine doing everything you want to do to your favorite car before you ever let it on the street. Anyway, thanks for the encouragement. I'll try to give some visuals later. Jim. Anybody need an 86 735i in cosmos blue, by any chance? Very low price ($500) for a very reasonable car? Call me at home, 765-947-5248.

Keep the best of the original, the 1970 of course; if you want an argument, there is only one place to start, the best body design of the S30 without the heavy bumpers, thanks to designer Albrecht Goertz, if you don't mind, and NISSAN patriots, please don't kick me off. Put on some fine wheels and great tires which weren't really available back in the day, (yes, I owned a new 1970 240Z way back, and 70 series tires were "wide.") Then, I don't want people to feel at all like they are riding in a 35 year old car, hence, electric windows and locks, heated seats, cruise control, fine stereo, tint, leather seats, console and dash, a little fine wood treatment maybe...I want my kids or wife or friends to be able to hop in, hit the key, and enjoy the ride without having to explain some ritual of choke and throttle. Fuel injection and electronic ignition, 5 speed and limited slip diff are mighty nice; after you get used to them, it's hard to give them up if you don't have to. I don't need electric seats or cabin climate control, or at the other end of the spectrum, a roll bar. So, like most of the other posts suggest, the really cool thing about the old school Z's is that you can customize them just as you like. Not many cars can be built, or left original, and be such a great personal car. I also appreciate the idea of a second car to satisfy the other needs or urges, or maybe a couple of cars. I'll keep the 76 2002 and the 2004 MCS pretty much stock and other old bimmers in various states, but the Z will be exactly what I want it to be: a free spirit. I'm old, and so is the Z, I don't dress like the 70's, and I don't want my Z to be locked in time either. But I love to see the ones that are true to their era all the same. Enjoy yours in any state of dress.

Hmm, very good stuff. Thanks guys. These thoughts have been running around loose in my head, so to read this discussion helps to clear things up. I did appreciate Rob's graphic, and lying under the car last night put some more of this into perspective. Of course I really don't want to mess with the steering, and true, the rack relocation isn't the easiest thing to do, but I was just wondering from the perspective of combining the ride height and relocating to acheive a positive effect. The sump of the pan isn't a problem actually;it fits pretty well right behind the crossmember; it's just the area directly in front of the sump, below piston #1. The pan isn't at its least depth there, but I can't remember what exactly is in that area of the pan, and I'm thinking lopping off a bit of the pan could be problematic because the pump may be right there, but it's been a while since I've had the pan off one of these. Gotta get out the books. Now you've gotten me thinking again, less pan depth, lower engine, more room for play, hmm...it's nice to have intelligent people to ponder ideas with. Thanks, Jim

Thanks, It's working out pretty well so far. Actually by removing the steering rack I was able to shoehorn the engine et al into a proper position without surgery. I as amazed. I will massage the front top of the tunnel for s slightly better angle and more clearance, but that is no big deal. Shifter is in the original hole. Now just have to deal with the rack. I'm a patient person, and the answers will come, often so simple and convenient, if you go at it from a Zen perspective. I think I can cut the engine mounting points off the 6er crossmember weld them directly to the Z crossmember and also devise a way to bolt them to the frame rails and the stock 6er mount bushings will work. This would add strength to the structure as they would work as a gusset or brace without adding much weight. I hope to hear more from jmortenson about the bumpsteer and moving the rack, btw, that was a great FYI article! You out there? If I lower the car about an inch, will moving the rack about an inch downward have a positive or negative effect on the steering geometry? I could possibly alter the front of the oil pan, but again, it's a wait and see situation, before I do anything drastic. Gotta set the diff in and get things lined up first. Bought a small welder at a garage sale this morning, just to be able to tack things up for a real welder. Thanks again guys. This is so cool. Jim

Hey thanks for the thoughts, guys. Yeah, I posted at HybridZ also. I've been around there for some time, too, mostly just cruising. These and Roadfly E24 and 2002 are favorite forums. I appreciate the mention of bumpsteer, as I am planning to lower the Z a bit, and wondered of the combined effects of lowering chassis and then lowering the steering rack. Still, it does seem a last resort to screw with steering. I've sat on this Z for over 15 years through many other past and current projects, and it's just now things may be falling together to do it, but time and $$$ are scarce commodities.

Well, last night I slid the engine and 5 spd trans (from my 85 635) into the Z. It almosts fits without alterations. The hood lies on the distributor and the intake plenum, so I need to figure out how to get the front down a couple of inches as it sits or move it all back 2 or 3 inches so it will drop down an inch or so. I see options right now of trying to lower the Z steering rack, exploring cutting into the oil pan to remove a few inches across the lower front, or cutting into the firewall. There may be other solutions such as changing the hood, but those are the most obvious. Lowering the rack poses a small problem with the steering shaft universal joint and the cross member, and who knows what else would be compromised in the steering, so I'm not liking that one. Cutting into the oil pan would only be possible if the crank allows it, and even then it is not sounding like a great idea, so it looks like cutting into the firewall or doing some creative massaging with a body hammer may be the best and least invasive solution. I like that the engine would sit even slightly deeper into the body for better weight distribution. I like the placement of the shifter, I think; although I haven't reattached the linkage, it looks like it will come out exactly where it used to or a little farther back where I would prefer. I want it to fit as high as possible, so I can use a short shift kit and cut down the stick to move more like a toggle than a lever. There is plenty of extra space between the front of the engine and the front framing where the radiator would be mounted. There is still the question of fitting power steering, but I think I will leave that as a later contingency . The Z rack and pinion was very responsive and wasn't very heavy at slow speeds, as I recall, but I have gotten spoiled by power. I wouldn't mind not having that entire system however; it is just more weight, more clutter, more work, and more things to leak, and I am not sure what power rack would fit. AC should be no problem, I may have to move the compressor upwards very slightly, but that shouldn't be too difficult. Again, one of the later stages of the project. I could live without AC if necessary, the Z has a great ventilation system, but I want the comforts of a really nice car. Since there is so much room in front of the engine, I'll probably dispense with the stock viscous clutch cooling fan and use an electric pulling fan on the engine side of the radiator. Looks like plenty of room for working on everything, and plenty of room for a supercharger... I'm anxious to get the entire car with engine up off the ground, so I can get under and see how everything else will fit, design mounts, etc. Pretty exciting. I think it will work. I can feel it accelerating out of a corner already. Later, Jim

Haven't tried it myself, but have an article saved somewhere. I definitely will do this on my Z during this rebuild. You say the metal is good, and I'm not doubting your assessment, but it can oxidize inside the frame as well, especially in the air chamber above the front wheels. This area is notorious for internal rust, and in a place which is difficult to see. Front frame rails also rust from the inside and can fold without much warning. Tapping with a drift punch may point out thin metal. There is also metal fatigue in otherwise sound-looking metal, which has flexed so much over the years to either become too soft or too brittle. Are you sure you are not hearing movement between body panels or springs in their perches? Also the doors always were "tinny", and can be improved with panel sound deadening mats like Fatmax. I think that's a product name among others, and one that I have not used but will also definitely look into. To respond to your question about strut tower bars, yes they will help, and yes a multipoint brace, say adding bracing from towers to upper firewall will help even more. The foam won't help if the metal is bad, but will add strength, rigidity, and sound deadening at a slight addition of weight. Worth it I'd say,for a street car. I owned a 70 Z when it was practically new, and they were not well insulated, much like most cars of the day, so they came with the problem. Today we expect our sports cars to have that solid "thnk" when we shut the door, etc, but look at all the sound deadening material they have, and the weight they have gained. Just make sure the car is solid and you may just have to learn to live with some of this idiosyncracy.

Ok, I'm jealous. Have fun!

Most posts I searched were older, so I am wondering if anyone has successfully completed a ps conversion and possibly posted any pics. Thanks.

Back when these were new there was a dashpot, and ugly vacumn operated motor mounted on the balance tube, which acted to prevent the su pistons from dropping too quickly and choking the engine. Sounds like it's missing. Possibly the check valve in the booster hose may be bad. Very cheap fix. Could also make your brakes feel like they are fading. Otherwise, loose or defective vac lines will cause this.

Wingnut, I have a set of roundtops from a 71 240. I also have intake, etc. when I bought the car it wasn't running, but I don't think there is anything wrong with the carbs. I dismantled the car, and they have been sitting in a box for many (20?) years. I just hated to part with them; I thought I might, but realistically, I'll probably never use them. I've even thought of adapting them to my 76 2002. They would of course need to be rebuilt. I'm in Indiana. alternativez2003@yahoo.com or jimfsnyder@hotmail.com

Just stuff, starter, R180 diff, R200 which I may use, don't know, alt, really not so much of the little things, just want to get rid of the big stuff I keep having to move around. I'm putting my 85 635 into my 70 Z, so I won't need the old Z engine & trans, but I do need all the body, susp, int, etc. Thanks.

I have a 260 engine which I bought many years ago (has it been 20?), and it has been sitting in my garage ever since. It was supposedly bored .30 over. At this point it is free to a good home. I also have a 5 speed out of a 79 280 2+2 which I cleaned up and replaced all seals a few years ago. I wouldn't mind getting a few bucks out of it. If anyone id interested please respond quickly; these deals won't last long. IOW I am going to dump them for more room for so many projects. I do have a few other bits and pieces, round-tops, alternators, a starter, etc. I live about 30 mi. north of Indianapolis. alternativez2003@yahoo.com or call, 765-947-5248. Thanks.

I have one with cracks, but want a new one, or one to recover in leather. alternativez2003@yahoo.com or jimfsnyder@hotmail.com Thanks, Jim

What does "undefined SOLD" mean? If it hasn't sold I'm interested. alternativez2003@yahoo.com

Listen to your father. Also consider a few other conditions. I have a 76 BMW 2002 (and yes, a 1970 240z in reparations) and when the 02 runs a little rough at 2500-3000 on a flat highway, I know it's time to replace points, condensor, rotor and cap, at least clean the plugs (or might as well replace them), check and routinely replace vacumn hoses and air filter, and do check carb adjustments and timing. I keep a supply of vacumn hoses of various sizes at all times. Also check the general condition of engine wiring, and specific items such and alternator and coil. Another problem area can be the mechanical fuel pump cam or lever, pump diaphragm, hoses etc. I would switch to an electric fuel pump if you haven't already. So, assuming everything is in top condition, rebuild your carbs and it should run great. If the pistons are dirty they will stick and the mixture will be incorrect while all static adjustments are dead-on. Good luck. Jim