ajmcforester

Glad you found something that worked the string I got originally was just as strong as the original stuff. I know the new string I bought for my trimmer is very flexible. It also does not brake on the trimmer as easy as the stuff I used to repair the antenna

It is interesting. I was doing research on the under coating. Some got it from the factory like my car did. Mine also was treated after in spots. The undercoating from the factory seems to be done after the underside paint and before the top coat was applied. You see the over spray on top of the coating. While around the spare tire well it is painted under the undercoating

Honestly just buy some used ones, they are not that expensive

AIt's metal, I take it out and polish out the rust first. If you plan to use LED's you can get a reflective material at the hobby store they use to skin gas powered model planes. If you want you could have it re-plated but you could buy new set for that price

The mast will come apart the tip of the antenna is screwed on take that off and you can slide the attenna apart. The threads are small so use a little heat on the tip to loosen a little. I took mine apart to replace the string see the link.

Use good penitrating oil not WD-40. I would avoid heat the cord or the guides might melt

First thing I'd do with the mast is soak it in mineral, penitrating, or hydrolic oil for a week or two. The base could use it also. The reason is look at the plastic rod and how grimy that is, that goes up into the antenna so on the inside it looks like that. Once you take the mast off and the tip of the mast you slide the sections apart verycarefully. If you need to for cleaning, don't if you can get it clean without pulling it apart it is fradgel.

Gav240z search a post I did if you need to replace the cable that raises the mast. I figured out how to use trimmer string to make a replacement

If you can please remember me, or if I sent you the dash to do it like factort. I'd like to install myself but I understand. I also be think dyi c I old cut to size.

So would you sell me one with the extra material?

Bob, Tarriff charges are normally included

I'd go that route and cut it. it is my fault if I cut too much off. I'd use the old dash pad as reference.

Bob , My complaint is I wanted it to have material to wrap around the frame like originally done. If it had that I would have bought it.

Interestingly I just went out to take a look. Mine was painted as stated, some spots on the left bracket the blue was chipped it was black below. So it looks like they mounted the bracket to the engine before painting the engine because I found blue paint in the seem between the rubber mount also but not between the bracket and the mount. Also no paint between the mount and the block. Hope that helps someone

Confirmed, jfa is correct Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

No sealant needed Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Not what I'm thinking old cars sometimes a wire connections don't always connect after disconnecting. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Also check wire connections to pump, injectors and ignition Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

I dig the white, but safari gold is wait it's at. nice job on the door.

Kats do you think fostering would work. Their product was great look how long it lasted most of them I came across the motors still work with cleaning. Only parts that took heavy weather conditions didn't last. Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

I got a friend running stock SU on a 280 setup Sent from my [device_name] using http://Classic Zcar Club mobile

Agreed, I didn't know it was that hard to get a glove box door. I have 6 and 4 are NOS. I can't tell you how many I left on junk cars. Also different process for the door. The only thing similar to the dash in the car is the interior door handle.

Good luck with her

No I just took it down very carefully

I still have my plastic, you are very close. It followed the edge before the panel drops in and has about 3/8" overlap. On the top it came about 1/2" from the spot welds near the window. At the window crank the screws went went thru the plastic, and the hole around the crank was about 1/4" large diameter the the hole in the door panel. around the door handle was very rough. It looked like it went under the handle and was glued in the flat spot. It covered most of the space around the handle, the bottom of the plastic was glued below the handle and did not go around. The plastic is very clear and thin, It was hard to make a pattern in butcher paper.