ajmcforester

So how much duct-tape did they use in the car? I'm still wondering why they need a grounding wire to the smog pump area

If you try to get a title from the DMV try to not get a salvage title

EScanlon, Your correct I just tried to put it into more understandable terms your like reading something my Mom the banker would say or my brother when he did title insurance. I think the right thing to do with this car is find out why California notes the car as having a lean and see if that group has the title.

The hardest part of this is your in PA and it sounds like the car was sold in CA. First off always get a bill of sale, by chance did you use a check that actually is a contract and will help you out and act as the bill of sale. This possible lean might be a savior and a headache. It might be the car was sold out of the lean holder without their consent. The title is possession and possession is 9/10 the law. When a loan is taken on a car the person giving the loan will hold the title as collateral and would technically be the owner of the car till the loan is paid. The person with the loan would then need to pay off the loan before they could sell the car. In other wards you might not own this car. Who ever put the lean on the car more than likely owns the car. Changing the plate on the car now sounds like a very bad idea. This could be very bad or not so bad, and I hope you got a great deal, because you more than likely need to pay money to keep the car. The responsible thing to do is find out who owns the lean and contact them, remember they don't want the car just what they were owed. Last time I check to see if their was a lean on a car I used my bank they helped me out and got me the information (I found an abandon car I wanted, and thought I'd see if I was worth it, it had a loan and to pay it off wasn't worth the car). Banks would also have incite and can give you input on how to get the car title especially with the lean on the car, they deal with these things all the time or at least someone in the company does (credit unions are also a great resource). Hopefully who ever gave the loan out will work with you, I'd hope they understand that both of you are victims and will cut a good deal with you and just cut their losses on the loan. Remember they don't want the car they want the money they loaned out, so you have some leverage till they reach the price they could sell at auction for minus cost of setup for auction and auction house costs. The other thing they might do is ask you to pay the remainder of the loan (more than likely minus interest).

Ya your first statement should call for an investigation if you buy another Z, that can land you jail time and how were you going to change the firewall vin numbers to match?? Let exhaust the legal rout first!!! OK lets build the history of ownership as best as you can this will help track down a copy of the old tiles or help you get a non-savage title if possible. Don't post the specifics listed below but give us a yes and no answer would help. Also right in order of time all the info below to organize it. Did you get a bill of sale or letter or receipt when you purchased the car? Were was the car sold and what state was the seller from? Do you have the old plate numbers? Did you get any insurance cards? Do you have info on the dealer that sold the car originally or even the original owners info?

You might want to replace the battery sooner than later. A bad battery puts strain on the regulator and the altinator. What I've seen people do is replace the battery when it is really bad then two weeks later they need to replace everything but sometimes they go 4 weeks replace the alternator now the new battery is bad . . . I'd recomend getting the battery tested and replace if needed the soon the better it's cheaper that way.

A well painted car should be fine just clean it well (including the underside) road grime is what will get you with rain not really the water its self. Sprays like Krown can also help really anything that keeps oxygen off the metal will prevents rust. Also enjoy the car

That would be a good one if it isn't rusted. In 72 they did some improvements to the rear that will help you in getting it setup over a 70-71 Z. From what I hear it is easier to swap a 240SX limited slip rear in also

It looks a little ruff for a original restoration what it your intent if you got the car

Good luck finding one in good shape their are shop that restore and repair these machines very well. I've been wanting a Tom Pinball machine for many years. I one day at a bowling ally on one play for three hours.

Hubcap Annie was in Denver in the 70's as a kid I still remember the TV ads. I they had a problem at one time because people were stealing hubcaps to sell to the shop.

From looking at factory picture over the years it looks like the early 240Z 70 upto the 72 year were silver, maybe not even painted. The 280Z were black in the pictures just like the control arms and swaybar. From 72 production to the 280Z I have not seen factory pictures to tell me what color the pan was. Now as far as I know the replacement pan from nissan came painted black only. My plan for my 71 is to paint it the same silver color as the heat sheild, if they painted it silver I don't know what other color they would have used. If looking for a 280Z pan I have one someone sold as a 240 pan

Dealerships can be very pretentious I had one tell me I switched the engine because it said Nissan on the valve cover

Alcohol and water can chemically react to the metal, argon can not. So this might not give as quality of a weld as a TIG or a well setup MIG. However it looks like it would be better than a gas based torch at welding. I think the question is how well the shielding works compared to fux-wirer, in a MIG, ARC or against different mixes of oxygen and argon on a MIG. As for being able to cut and weld with one torch is something I could have used when logging to make repairs on the fly, especially with the power use of this welder. The only problem is the thickness of metal I worked with 1-2" thick the welder only does 3/8" I could see owning one depending on the purity of the weld and having a project the requires a lot of cutting and welding. I think it's a nice product

Get some dry ice for the sound deadner it will make it brittle enough by cooling to brake like peanut brittle

I wonder how the properties of the metal after welding compares. Welding gasses are to help protect the metal while cooling from hydrogen, and oxygen. The price seams about right if this compares well to a TIG it would be a deal.

I'd thought I ask since it is a NYC company. I think I'll miss the pick-nick I don't really know the guys up their and you fell kind of weird when you show up no one knows you and you can't drive your z because it is in a couple 1,000 pieces in your garage.

Blue did you try this out? I was thinking soda and I had heard of this method, but had not looked into it yet. The vidio made me interested in the method, because when it took the paint off the color of the metal was consistant. With soda you see variance in the color in the metal telling me it is doing something making the surface vary even if it is slight amount of variations.

South facing metal door garage and no shade. My saving grace is it is an attached garage ans someone lives up-stair above the garage

Last year I did have a harder time in this weather, last year I did a 5 minute dip then an flash acid dip and another plate to get good results. This weekend I'll filter the tank and recheck the PH and try again. The tank has never acted this bad before. Chloride zinc additives are in a suspension. Blue your statement fits my concern that my tank is getting weak. I've done a lot of plating with 1.5 gallon setup. If the levels are low, temp would more impact the chemical's availability to conduct the desired reaction. This is good information to think about.

GReat thanks for the sights I'm not a big fan of getting help from Caswell's forum, it is a mess

I had no problems with the plating for 1.5 years was working like a champ, I practiced my same routine then things started to fall apart. I've been using a 24 hour soak in vinegar (longer if needed) to remove any rust and contaminates,wiping off and using hot water to rinse. Then I soak in a degreaser 150deg for 10 min and check with distiled water to see if it is clean, and to rince. I'd found I better plating with 4 volts, slightly higher amps, and a shorter plating time about 7-8 minutes or until buildup started on the wires, also kept the tank around 110deg. I don't heat the yellow chromate, I swirl the part very quickly and added .25oz (only once) of light oil and I get the rainbow affect. I set up to air dry for three days. I only added brightener when the zinc plating gets very dark. Why my tank is rusting stuff is what concens me, I've plated about 90% of all the zinc and yellow chromate parts. Maybe the salts are shot or the sediment at the bottom of the tank is messing up the plating. Also why is the yellow chromate not adhering to the plating from my tank but no problem on new bolts?

OK I tried to post this on Caswell's site and it would not let me. I know we have some people that use the CopyCad, so I thought I'd post hear, and try to post with Caswell at a later date. I have been plating with the CopyCad plating system for almost 2 years. Over the last 2.5 months I’ve been noticing a rust corrosion problem near the location I plate. Then 3 weeks a go on Saturday I got great plating of parts. That Sunday I was plating and the yellow-chromate would not adhere properly to the newly plated parts. They came out with a higher shine from the zinc tank than the day before and I didn’t add any brightener to the tank over that weekend. I cleaned the parts and re-prepped the parts for plating the next week. That same week I wanted to see if the yellow-chromate was good so I took some new fasteners that I wanted to coat with yellow-chromate no problems. The next weekend I checked the PH (was close to 7) and set the tanks up. This time the plating came out very bright and the yellow chromate didn’t adhere. However this time three days later the parts were rusty with a red oxide powder on the surface. Also steel parts near the tank got very rusty also. I’m thinking of just setting up a new tank, but I’d like to have an idea what went wrong so I can prevent it or even correct my current tank any thoughts?

Nice find for out east. I'm a little concern about someone with little mechanical experience using a nearly 40 year car as a daily driver. I'd recommend getting to know the car, do some basic maintenance till you get familiar with the car. Also get the factory service manual, it will be a big help and start reading, if it is in that book it probably needed to be done in the last 40 years. Also have fun with the car these old car arn't worth it otherwise, working on the car should be enjoying not a chore.

Loan a tool program at Auto Zane has the tool. Since you just took off the valve cover adjust the valves first