ajmcforester

OK I tried to post this on Caswell's site and it would not let me. I know we have some people that use the CopyCad, so I thought I'd post hear, and try to post with Caswell at a later date. I have been plating with the CopyCad plating system for almost 2 years. Over the last 2.5 months I’ve been noticing a rust corrosion problem near the location I plate. Then 3 weeks a go on Saturday I got great plating of parts. That Sunday I was plating and the yellow-chromate would not adhere properly to the newly plated parts. They came out with a higher shine from the zinc tank than the day before and I didn’t add any brightener to the tank over that weekend. I cleaned the parts and re-prepped the parts for plating the next week. That same week I wanted to see if the yellow-chromate was good so I took some new fasteners that I wanted to coat with yellow-chromate no problems. The next weekend I checked the PH (was close to 7) and set the tanks up. This time the plating came out very bright and the yellow chromate didn’t adhere. However this time three days later the parts were rusty with a red oxide powder on the surface. Also steel parts near the tank got very rusty also. I’m thinking of just setting up a new tank, but I’d like to have an idea what went wrong so I can prevent it or even correct my current tank any thoughts?

Nice find for out east. I'm a little concern about someone with little mechanical experience using a nearly 40 year car as a daily driver. I'd recommend getting to know the car, do some basic maintenance till you get familiar with the car. Also get the factory service manual, it will be a big help and start reading, if it is in that book it probably needed to be done in the last 40 years. Also have fun with the car these old car arn't worth it otherwise, working on the car should be enjoying not a chore.

Loan a tool program at Auto Zane has the tool. Since you just took off the valve cover adjust the valves first

The intake is factory. Clifford was an aftermarket exhaust manufacture http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?34920-A-review-of-what-s-gone-period-240Z-exhausts&highlight=supersprint By the way if the car is not accelerating properly, check the system out first before rebuilding the engine.

If your going to take apart the exhaust take it out carefully that lookms like a cliford exhaust parts like someone expected a lot of people hear would love that system if that is the case.

It ain't Merlin it looks like King Midis. that looks like it was plated and a yellow chromate was added my car isn't gold but it could have been at one time

It's neat to see the molds, and can't wait to see the finished product. How painful is it to get these made, is this something you might look into doing more things like the early ashtrays and other hard to get plastic items.

Try this with the car not running but in the on position and the positive terminal disconnected from the battery. Disconnect the posative feed from the alternator and run a wire from the batter positive to the alternator wire and test to see if you get power.

Personally I like the points over the Pertronix system. Z train quote: Points belong in museums-not street driven cars. Statements like this is what you get from people that don't know how to adjust points properly. I've had both systems on my car. My first Z had points never switched over. When I got the second car it had a pertonix system it when I bought it. After cleaning the distributor it worked well for about 3 months and burned out and was the first time a Z left me walking. I switched the car over to points at least if they have a problem I can makeshift them to get home. Performance wise I didn't notice any difference between the two systems. My advise don't switch it is not worth the money points are not hard to adjust. StinkyCheese Quote I was having a problem with my Z cutting out at 4000 rpm so I came to these wonderful forums and did some searching. . . I've had this problem with the 2 Zs I owned, what I found it to be was the breaking-plate. I found the ball bearings created a groove with ridges I buffed it smooth, and fixed the problem.

Ya I get the look when I do that on the street with Z cars. However I point out rare and unique Japanese cars also with the same response. I think the two worse times that people tried to pretend they didn't know me was when I came across a nice Mazda 323 GTX, and the almost not their from rust an early Toyota Celica GT.

Ya I get the look when I do that on the street with Z cars. However I point out rare and unique Japanese cars also with the same response. I think the two worse times that people tried to pretend they didn't know me was when I came across a nice Mazda 323 GTX, and the almost not their from rust an early Toyota Celica GT.

Hey at least you know the car works we normally get the opposite on this site Hey keep your old alternator they are easy to rebuild and it's not a bad idea to have an extra, I get parts from an alternator shop in Trenton NJ. Also make sure your external regulator is in good shape that can be a pain when not working properly. I wish you could get a rebuild kit from the autopart store but people just don't rebuild their stuff any more

Your compression numbers are low but this could be from how you tested it. they are consistent witch is very good. Try spraying some pentrating oil in the spark plug hole and let it sit this will help the rings loosen up some. Also with the plugs pulled test the force it takes to turn the engine this is a good test to see if the parts are dragging a little or they are heavily worn in the engine.

Have some fun with this. The last Z I bought I drove it from Detroit to Cherry Hill, NJ. It almost made it the fuel-pump had one of the springs in the valve go out in Philly during rush hour 7 miles from destination, and on the wrong side of the bridge. Now I've worked with similar pumps in a former job and noticed it was pushing but not pulling so I took a gas can mounted to the hood and got her home. Take a week to prep the car before driving her back

http://www.datsunparts.com/Brakes He is right look at part number 2550, the last one on the page. Quality would be the only question

A couple spare parts like fuel filters would be smart

I'll PM you later with the information later understand I'm very busy right now so give me some time he sent a lot of pictures. He wants more than 3G however it is in the 14G as his asking price, but it is rust free, and has a high end paint job. It also is one of two Z I found with a original SuperSprint Exhaust system, I'm planning on putting a NOS system on my car. If your going to be in Colorado it would be worth looking at. He is a really nice guy we talked for over an hour, and we met in 2004 at a show when I was showing my Z. He can't keep it because of a move, but he isn't pushing hard to sell.

It lives again. Ya its hard to kill these motor you actually got to try to destroy them. Great work I think you got the track bug, you keep it up and you'll be out sooner than I originally thought.

We Have success. Hears is what worked. Bought Stihl round string at .130" diamerter and 75' long of it for less than $9. I cut the string (actually it melted) and burned out the old string for the antenna. Same for the little feral on the real side. Glue wasn't a good idea I burned off the mess and started again. Heat was the best tool, I heated up the end of the antenna at the conector just enough that I could push the string in, but not melt the string and when it was cool it hardened nicely. I took and clamped the part pulled hard on the string and the string broke but didn't pull out. Again burned out the string and installed again. Did the same thing with the feral on the real side. Then I drilled the hole and installed the antenna after giving the motor and parts a good restoration with new brushes and oil and a little grease. Works great Now all I need are the parts that connect the antenna to the fender.

Welcome make sue you check out the classifieds. Also I have a lead on a good one first owners 240Z for sale in Colorado

Nope that's north Jersey

Great project car

That will be a big task. If your dead set on this you might be better off planning on changing the whole intake system. I'd consider carbs

Nice looking car tell us more

I have a Nissan ECU NOS with model number but I don't know what year it fits. http://www.datsunclassifieds.com/showproduct.php/product/5645/title/control-module23-2371c-4l801-re/cat/33