ajmcforester

I should have posted pictures to help. This picture is looking into the front right fender. Please let me know if the question in the picture if correct I can get the part numbers for that part of the car.

My parts catalog and the online factory parts listing don't have the bolts, nuts, washers or anything else to connect the front apron to the lower fender panel. Does anyone have the part numbers needed?

The valve should be closing and the intake should be opening. I'd need more cam specs to know how much close and open the valves would be. Jeff would be able to help you out more since he has had a similar setup. Do you see signs on the head it was milled you really since you have it off need to check this, because it will be key in fixing the problem.

I don't know if we want to blame the piston people run flattops in Zs all the time. The other thing is we need figure out why before we make a fix (even a quick one) otherwise you will throw money into this that won't fix the problem. First off are we working with a factory cam? Someone might have put a bad combo together. Also did the timing match correctly for the cam?

Try soaking it out like Gary suggested or use a penetrating oil for several days, then try an easy out. You need to get it out! Are you going to have any machine work done? If so they can take care of it , they usually charge about $30-$50 extra which is better than frustration.

Mike a habit of mine not to round anything till I'm done with the number. My physics professor was a subatomic theorist and I helped my Biometrics professor run advance algorithms rounding early meant big errors. In Biometrics the errors would have cost around a $1M each

To give you an idea the vintage Supersprint exhaust I got is 1 3/4 inlet and splits to 1 1/4" duel outlet. A friend of mine was arguing with me that twice the pipe is the same as twice the diameter. Of course I proved him wrong, but to do I had to make this chart and do a math proof. The nice thing is you can look to see what size pipe you want. If it would post: Single to Duel Take the single diameter and place in the equation D= single diameter d= duel pipe diameter r=D/2 area= (Pi)r^2 area= (pi)(D/2)^2 area= 2*(pi)(d/2)^2 (pi)(D/2)^2=2*(pi)(d/2)^2 ((pi)(D/2)^2)/(pi)=2*(d/2)^2 (D/2)^2=2*(d/2)^2 (D/2)^2=2*(d/2)(d/2) (D^2)/4=2*(d^2)/4 (D^2)/4=(d^2)/2 2*(D^2)/4=(d^2) (D^2)/2=d^2 X^(1/2) equals the square root of X ((D^2)/2)^(1/2)=d So first D*D then divide by 2 and lastly take the square-root

I have a aluminum, jack I picked 2003 that I still use from Sam's for $35. They were clearancing them, they were shipped vertically and were meant to be stored flat and were not; so air got into the fluid, so I bled the jack and am still using it.

If you see a 72 blue with white int. and colorado custom rims let me know. I have the key for the rims. Ya I don't mind meeting, but my Z is in parts so she ain't leaving the garage yet.

I know the car it is in one of my work pictures. I didn't know it was for sale :0

You didn't get a hold of me bummer I live in SoJo;) That's all right we had an emergency at work so I probably would be unavailable anyways. I'm glad you found something you will need to take more pictures, people like picture.

Wow glad you bought them before I ordered I would have been adenoid that I bought the incorrect part twice

I know talking like this is subjective, but sometimes subjective talk can give an idea of difference, just makes it hard to quantify. Have you gotten it above 150KM that would be when you might start to notice a difference, I know with my Z I notice steering performance, and tracking changes at about 70mph. With the standard Z at this speed the front end is way up in the air and it is affecting the steering and starts to really affect the car when you get close to 100mph

Alan T. Do you ever get your up to high speeds? How much of a difference did the zg front make in how the car handles? I've like the look, but I don't have the spot yet to create a clone or store even another Z, well I could but it means more money in storage

Alan, it might be worth getting them your self for your ZG, god forbid something ever happens, but just in case.

Check the diff make sure it's got fluid, grease all the grease points lets try to get it lubricated. You might need to just get grease into the wheel bearing. Check for and joint that just does not feel right. People might be able to find a shop if they knew what part of the Midwest their are Z shops in that area. Also make sure to get them out more they are fun to drive and driving them helps the car, they are not designed to sit.

Hey what about this one in Alexander NY http://www.datsunclassifieds.com/showproduct.php You might need to go to 3G's but hey it looks like it might be a good price

That one in Old Bridge might be a good one to look at, it had a 280Z motor and the series one body (the lightest body) Some work you could have a killer machine

Be honest, hold off till you can afford a good body 2Gs isn't going to give you that. If you don't want to do the body work it won't take much to go over what a restored car will go for just replacing the floor pans or even just getting 3-4 rust spots repaired properly will run you over.

Pack the bearings in dry ice and heat up a little the hub, and you will drop them into place. On the stubs wrap dry ice in newspaper and wrap with tape heat the bearing, not enough to soften or change the properties, and you will only need some light taps with the drift

Man that look to be a nice setup.

I love the squares for many applications, however that isn't what I'm looking for to keep it close to original. What I need for minimal measurements is 2 20"x30" pieces. If I decide to replace it all I'll need 1 24"x30" (would be enough scrap to make the two small pieces in the rear), and 2 14"x20" also.

I trying to referbish my 4/71 240Z as close to original, including rubber bushings and proper plating of fasteners. . . The sound dampening mats on the drivers and passenger floor boards are cracks and are starting to come up and will need replacement material. I found the product at JC Whitney, however they tried to send it to me 9 times without getting one that was damaged, poor packaging that the would say they try something new and it would just come damage, it was a big waist of time. Same with Summit they told me a product was the butyl material when I got it it wasn't they charged me a restocking fee (was not happy since it was theirs staff that miss lead me). This has left me with no choices to replicate the sound material, I don't want the aluminum coated. I plan to paint it just like it was done new, it lasted this long it will last another 40 years, and the aluminum backed stuff don't like paint. I've tried many (lost count how many) audio stores in NJ they don't carry it. Any ideas or places to find the material?

Let me know if you plan to look at one in NJ I might not mind being a second eye

This happens people that hold onto beat-up cars can be a big pain in the a$$. I remember seeing the car ad you might want to take a look http://www.datsunclassifieds.com/showproduct.php/product/5940/title/1972-datsun-240z/cat/1 These aren't in PA, but east-coast cars you might also look at: http://www.datsunclassifieds.com/showproduct.php/product/5669/title/1972-240z-original-paint/cat/1 http://www.datsunclassifieds.com/showproduct.php/product/5655/title/1971-240z-manufactured-9-2f70-has-many-upgrades-edit-3a-my-phone-number-was-not-correct-now-fixed-21/cat/1 http://www.datsunclassifieds.com/showproduct.php/product/5666/title/1973-datsun-240z/cat/1