ajmcforester

What do you mean no paint behind the vinyl I have very good paint. Now the back side of the fender panels were only primer sealed. That might be a hint of work done. I hope it look better than you floors. By the way I was so concerned with rust people were calling me OCD. When I bought the car the guy was getting annoyed with the magnet and tapping the body looking for soft spots, besides he wouldn't have the rust I would.

He's right you don't want to be the sender, but you can receive. PayPal can also be an option. If he has a friend in Colorado maybe he buys the car on books but he gives the money t his friend. Then you have someone in the US if the sale goes bad

Gibbs penetrating oil and a tooth brush does a good job getting the hard to get areas, and acts as a protectant. It cleans the wires well also. Ya it might be $15 a can, but I fell in love with the stuff. If I let it get that not wet feel to it, it only lightly smokes for less than five minutes when it gets on the cat. It looks natural on the car, it's clear and does not yellow, and it melts the grimy grease. It was invented by a motorcycle mechanic. He wanted a product that can oil joints on the bikes and keep aluminum corrosion down. By the way don't use engine cleaner it tends to damage aluminum

On your clock why don't you contact this guy he might help. Ron of Zclocks ron@zclocks.com

I got a NOS, but the original looks just as good, but is doing the same thing. I plan to take it apart, great EDU time I might to this after the car is back together, unless someone knows how to repair it.

I got the front half and I just used what was on the sticker, I do not speak Italian. I know a smidgen of Japanese and a mix of Spanish and Spanish influence Language. Your going to haft to wait on sound the car is in full restoration right now. And with restorations you never seem to hit the date you want so I'm not going to give you one I'll post pictures. I want to protect the system since it is so rare, I planning to have the front half black ceramic coated inside and out. It is a resonator up front with no baffles just holes in the pipe to collect noise, and I can't wait to get the rear half and see how I can treat it to keep it nice. I plan to take all the decals off they are just paper, and would just burn off over time, and I'll put them in a book for the car. Today I know I sounded like the car dork. We were talking about someone supervise about wedding next week, and then we had a quite moment during our lunch and I started in about my exhaust. It couldn't get more quite, ya I'm excited.

Dan let me check I have a bunch of old pumps, let me see if I can get you enough good screws, I can send to you. I'm plating this weekend, so I can always replate some I know I'd have enough then

Never mind, keep an eye out for an original. The FSM will walk you right through the rebuild, nice rainy day project. To get the rebuild parts, you will need to find a starter, and alternator rebuild shop. If you can't find one I'll hit the one I know up. I just don't like its location.

I plan to I've added a while a go the front half

It only took a little more than a year to find and I'm pumped. I finally got the rear half of my exhaust system :D:D I looks from the add never been used just a little ruffed up from storage, but not much. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=150560457616 Sorry I rather attach pictures to the email, but ebay isn't that friendly. I'll attach some after the part arrives.

Did you keep the original alternator?

I'll keep an eye for you in S. Jersey

You ain't kidding:stupid:

It happened to my grandfather when machining some magnesium and ran out of oil back in the fifties

Backing Soda is what is in basic extinguishers there are several different types, that is why I have three. I probably will never need the one for metal fires, but for $5 I thought what the hell. Beside I got 3 new potential project cars lined up and one is a prewar hot-rod with a lot of magnesium parts that need a lot of work, just about everyone has ignited magnesium, and has some idea how hot that gets.

People on this site tend to error on the side of caution compared to other sites. I have 3 extinguishers in my garage a lone, mainly because a neighbor of mine works for a fire extinguisher and fire control system company. They get fire extinguishers all the time from client companies that require new fire extinguishers every several years. Well they are a full service company so they end up with a lot of extinguishers that are good, they let employees recharge and condition them for free or at little cost. So I had one made just for electrical fires, one general use and one for metal fires (that is an expensive one normally).

I'm glad you found it. I thought it had to be something with the distributor, what you stated at first didn't make since, and I know what your talking about the first time I rebuilt my distributor I did the same thing. I took it apart 3 times be fore I figured out why

Add a firesafe blanket to your safety equipment also. If a fire starts, and catches the electrical on fire the battery may explode. This way you can cover the battery area. Sorry if I'm scaring you but it just a little advice it isn't that common that you need to fear it, but common enough you want to have things ready just in case. When you get a fire extinguisher make sure it's good for electrical, oil, and gas fires. If you got oil on the exhaust manifold it is almost imposable to clean off so you might as well burn it off. Besides I can now tell you never owned a British car, or an old American car otherwise this would have never bothered you, Damn oil leaking junk

Keep the old one and rebuild it, or find someone to, it isn't worth exchanging. Usually the rebuilt from the auto part store last about a year. I've never had one I rebuilt go out.

If it goes away after an hour of running you are more than likely burning something oily. They can leak at the head but exhaust leaks seem to be more common between the exhaust manifold and the downpipes so next time she's running before the engine gets to hot put your hand down by the connection and see if you fell hot air moving, be careful you can get burned doing this. The hard starting you need to fix the choke it help a lot.

OK you got power at the points, yet you claim you are not spark from the coil? That makes little since. You would need power to travel from the coil to read it at the points. Unplug the wire from the coil to distributor and test the coil at that point, any power? You should read something if you did at the points. Hook the wirer back up. If you got power next hook your timing light up and see if it flashes if no unhook a wire running to a plug and use your tester to see if you can get power when the engine turns. If not it's some thing not right with the distributor.

How clean is this engine, is it grimey?

How long has it smoked while running?

I think you would be better off fabricating it or finding one out of a salvage yard. I'm not planning to put the original back on so I can help with pictures, and measurements if needed. I also not going to sell it in-case I want the original exhaust later. 1971.5 mean you have a 71 series II? It is easier for us if you just use the production date like mine's 4/71

Smoke problem sounds like a exhaust leak