ajmcforester

May a few good locksmith companies never go under. I just got my locks back this afternoon they work great, new keys, they repaired the two worn out locks and service and conditioned them all up. I had them all taken apart and cleaned with 40 years of use they could use it. He gave me the code sheet with the cuts for my key. He replace the ignition cylinder with a new ones from their old stock Everything works great. Thanks for your help.

So playing this in my head they would have been installed for fitting the hatch, hatch removed by screws, and painted leaving the hinges, then new screws or recycle the ones removed so they never got paint. That makes since. This is good stuff to know like when I took the cowl off the car I was restoring to find little paint circles hinting to me the cowl was painted on the car without the screws, and a paint line from were it sat when painted.

I've seen it both ways was the hardware also painted? and the bucket like thing they sit in?

This is more a question for guy that have original paint. Are the hatch hedges painted or not, how were they done from the factory?

I think he had some idea you can hear him in the video telling him to steer less and give it more power, to making sure he uses the whole track and use the cars power to aid in turning the car. If you never learned that it can be scary, yet it can be useful if you have a turn with less traction than you expected or aid in accident avoidance on the street.

Their is a lot of upgrade parts you can get to help the rear, what is damaged on yours?

The Z is more basic and the car gives you stronger feedback. The G37 is built for comfort and not feeling the road. The Z might make you a better racer because it will teach you how to read the road, and the car. Just remember the G37 is safer and less likely to get into trouble.

She looks great that was a lot of work, what did you use for under protection on the body.

The diff mount might need replacing very common. Check the bolts that the diff mounts to the mustache bar. Glad you had some fun if you get into it try some of the high speed gokart type racers it might help kepp some of the cost down

Yes you need to adjust the valves, they are to be checked every year according to the factory service manual. If the valves to far out you can cause damage and excessive ware. Do you have a factory manual it explain well how to do this it is not hard? Take a good look at the valves while your doing this you might spot something, a bad valve guide and seals can do this also. I should have asked earlier does you car burn any oil, any blue smoke, and how much oil loss have you had? Your compression test numbers are low, did you pull all the spark plugs before cranking the motor, it makes a big difference? Does someone have the compression range to post for him I can't exactly the range that is considered exceptionable for 73, I do remember it was over 200PSI, and was different than that of a 70-71, and 72. The good thing is the numbers look consistent. How many miles? You could consider a leak-down test to locate seepage. Do you have an air compressor, does your compression tester have a connector to hook to a air line to it (some are made to play double duty)? Do this with the valve cover off. What you do is bring the engine to top-dead-center, or close to it, just make sure the valves are fully closed use the spark plug hole with a gauge and bring the pressure up to 100psi for one hour and see how much are was loss 90psi in one hour is called a 90%. I'm not to worried about how much it leaks, but if you can see or hear any air movement from around the valve or in the bottom of the engine. Or hear anything coming out of the exhaust or intake. This will check for leaks past the rings, and if the valve is seating properly, and sometimes catch a bad valve guide will be caught.

It might be the rear seal, and yes you can leave the engine in the car. You need to test the engine to say exhaust at that vale means bad rings. A compression test will help determine that. When did you last adjust the valves?

Was a lot of them repainted a different color. you bet. If someone told me 1/2 the cars were a different color it would not surprise me. Part of this was the demand on these cars, new owner didn't really get a chance to pick a color. They did the color in batches Carl can predict the color the car was by its vin number, so you got the that was out at that date you purchased it. The other thing is unless someone took care of the paint it has needed a repaint, with no color marking people tend to paint in their favorite colors. The one thing that is suprising is how many people use factory colors when changing the color.

If your talking about the plastic piece the help me section has a set of various parts that has it. If your talking the metal part you need a new handle.

I sounds like you pull what I call the electrical trifecta. OK jumping cars is not a great idea if you can get the battery charged instead, ya I know you can't do that everytime. The reason is it puts a strain on the altinator and voltage regulator, which might go out, then you put more strain on the battery that ends up damaging it. Mean while you have been cranking the starter a lot not at full power putting even more strain on the starter, battery and alternator. Then they begin to fail. First thing and easiest thing to do is get the battery charged and tested, make sure all connections are clean. Auto Zone can check the battery. I know if you bring the car they can test the alternator and if it is out of the car, but see if their loan a tool program has a tester it's free once you return it. If your car won't turn over with the charged battery you won't be able to test the alternator and you need to check the starter they can test it out of the car also. If you have the time if they are shot take them to get restored (maybe not the battery) to a alternator and starter rebuild shop, you seem to get a better product for your car that way if you repair the altinator consider getting a new battery they are a team and like to go out together so why risk it after you repair the more expensive one of the two By the way you will need to check the regulator to see if you didn't damage it. Follow the factory manual on this it will help

Looks great, don't over tighten when putting the on very common to do

Have you had the body check for true, because that is a bold statement. Right now someone can buy the car, do what you just said have the car go out of control, and sue you. Or you might try it and be like an ex-friend of mine who is having a disk removed from lousing control of a car with a crooked frame. I know you want to sell the car lets just make sure we play it safe. Honestly how fast have you had the car did it track strait any vibrations at that speed?

Yes but some limits they just ask you to pay a little more if you know your going over

I would not have done that you should now replace the exhaust/intake gasket. Otherwise you might have leaks.

Mike B I almost agree with you I see enough to tell me it wasn't repaired right, the fender needs to come off at a shop to see what it would cost to repair it right, but more important how untrue the car is from measurements. It would make a great parts car or a great project car, but I would not drive that car at highway speed in its current state.

If you never had the engine rebuilt it will make parts last longer. If the engine was rebuilt usually you have it converted over will harden aluminum valve seats and guides making it not needed. You don't even need to add it every time you fill up. It just helps the valves on a street car. Racers will talk about chamber temps and proper combustion, but this isn't going to effect enough to notice especially street driving maybe on a drag strip or a long timed race. Wall-Mart sells the stuff it only cost 5-10 and treats 100s of gallons of fuel.

Yes but you can also see what looks to be damage on the right lower corner of the fender near the hatch. The other thing that bothers me is the owner has not stated were the car was hit if I owned it or had in front of me for 15 minutes I could tell. He might just be trying to drive interest up on his car. I would take a look at it if it was in NJ just by seeing the pictures and add if he was willing to see at a good to low price. Now to ship it to me would jack the price to high to consider.

Your looking at car that are 35-40 years old. Are you going to have problems? Yes, the whole car wasn't designed to last this long. I might steer you away if you can't get a ride now and again to work when you need it. Also the first year you have it expect it to brake down they always seem to have something that needs working out when you first get the car. I'd tell you what to look for but just search this site it has been beaten like a dead horse. Look for what you are willing to have, don't get a rusty car because that's all you can find, and expect you might need to fly out to see a car don't trust a picture or their word. Things that you might like, good on gas my 72 got 43mpg cross country. I find the SU carbs eat a lot of gas starting, so if you do a lot of little stops you might want fuel injection. Easy to work on, especially the early ones, very simple design and well thought out car. Great highway and turning car. I'm 6'4" most cars I'm only good for 200 between brakes, the Z I go tank to tank, over 400miles. Looks good. Strong engine. These car were very reliable for their day, just remember that was 35 years a go. Neutral things about the car you need to work on it, it is not a90's car, twice a year you need a whole day to tune it up. You will get good at lashing and check valve clearance they need it every year, the point need to be cleaned four times a year if driving it every day, points should be taken off and check twice a year and replace once a year with daily driving. Regulator should be checked every year and adjusted, you need to add lead substitute to the fuel, keep away from hi ethanol fuels or convert all rubber fuel hoses to handle the ethanol. Just be glad it's not methanol that stuff is nasty. Their is more but I want to give you a start on what to expect.

I could help you find info but who, what level of government, what do you want to know your leaving us with little direction of what your looking for? I could Barry you in federal law, AZ is very lax compared to some other states like NJ. Is the a Phoenix law? It's hard to give you help with such a vague question.

Rust is bad they are reliable once you workout bugs that old car get

This is a series II 71. I owned a early 72 and now have a 71. Locking gas door, metal fan (who would convert from plastic), and fuel hose running to that funny fuel thing on the left firewall, are things you don't find on 72s. Now it might be titled a 72 I have seen that before. I see several things that hint the drives side was damaged. The hood bends up in the center left side, the left door sits higher in rear in relation to the rear fender, these are two things that are rare to see from factory ushaly the door will sit at or a little below, and gravety would work the door down. The exhaust looks new and is aftermarket with headers. The rear bumper side peice don't line up with the center (factory was pretty good with this from what I've seen). The rear hatch seems to be ever so slightly off to the right and looks like the hatch was pushed into the right fender. It also has a 73 or later brake master the caps hint at that. A 3 panel hit on just about any car will total it out. If I was to get this car I'd check how true the body is it might not drive straight at higher speeds or even become unstable. I think you can have a fun car that can last a long time, or it might make a great parts car if it is crooked or to transfer over to a good shell.