ajmcforester

Wasn't that a fun drive all the same you finaly got it to roll on its own power. While you take a look at the breaks you might want to blead the lines not to get air out but to change the fluid. Brake fluid has anti rust agents and if they separate they can cause problems. Also make sure their is no swelling on the hoses or cracks that includes the clutch, might as well while your at it. Auto Zone has a loan a tool program where you pay the price of the tool and when you return it they refund the whole price, they have a bleeder vacuum system. Now your shifting problem you mention when the car is not running can you push it into the gears like any manual car would? If yes then you need to bleed the clutch put new fluid in. Check for leaks first if you have a leak you can rebuild the master and the slave the kit are not that bad in price for this. If you still have problems have someone push the clutch while you watch the slave cylinder and see if it moves well (if the slave looks really bad order a new one they still make the original, but not the Master). If that don't work you might need to adjust the slave cylinder rod (hopefully we can get around replacing the clutch for now).

I knew once you got it running you would try driving it, but you need to check some things out the valves sounded louse in your video. Do the brakes fell stiff. How well is it sliding into gear. Heather Carl's words otherwise they would have been mine! I know you would love to drive it around to show the world, but take your time with it. It is now over 40 years old, and you just got it from one of the worse things you can do to a car letting it sit. One thing you need to do is check the wheel bearings for play this is a very big safety thing. lift the car wheel up and see if you can shift the wheel up or down with your hands if so you need to replace them, otherwise you can louse a wheel.

That's the problem is how nice his car is. They will look at the ones around the area like you did and give him the same price, not good most Z cars are not in that quality, and when they are they are rarely sold.

Hey that show had more Z than the ones I go to.

Have you talked to them about maybe bringing it to a restoration shop that you and the insurance can agree of for the work? They more than likly not go with it but it might not hurt to ask. It is going to take a while to clear this up otherwise.

Dam I should have made a $3,000 offer paid to have it shippedLOL Just a joke I don't realy have the storage to have two cars to be working on I need to finish one before I get another. With yours I might just do preservation work get her running well and repair what wasn't original or period correct. I'm not the guy that likes everything new I like a little age. That means more maintenance not just buying a new alternator, but repairing the old, taking old switches and making repairs inside. I'd adjust the valves (lashing) this weekend, then change the oil. You take the valve cover off to do this and it make for a good time to clean the gunk off the top of the head and valve cover, then change the oil that way anything you got in the oil galleries and into the pan gets drained out.

While ordering the DVD get your self a sycrometer (sp?), and some new gaskets for the carbs. I bet they could take a good taking apart and cleaning. also pickup some 30 or 20 non detergent oil for the dash pots. You will understand when you watch the video. When you go to take them a part, get a cake pan and some news paper this will help little parts from going all over as you disassemble the carbs. Just as bad as you want to rebuild the carbs you need to even more lash the valves it isn't had and you should do it every year. The reason is these engines are flat tapped cams, if the lashing is not right you can damage a lobe on the cam, break a valve and so on. Look in the manual you got it will walk you through this, it's not so good on the carbs I heard the DVD is good. Also don't forget the timing, and flushing out the coolant. Theirs a plug on drivers side of the bock for flushing out the block make sure you do that the water pumps in these cars are easy to damage with lac of care. Flush this car till nothing but clean water comes out, in every posable direction. Make sure to replace the thermostat also Sitting cars create rust in the water jackets will plug the radiator and engine plus jam the pump . . . This will save you from sitting on the side of the road with a over heating engine. Carl that car might be worth more than that I would have paid that and maybe more I was thinking with the right buy you might fetch 8,000-9,000 and once in well working condition maybe 15-16,000

You can straiten the carthe question might be cost

Getting the gas out is not hard their is a drain plug on the tank. Don't worry about every little drop you just need to get most of it out, and get new gas in. I want you to get her running so you can get the fluids changed, and flush the coolant system out. I don't want you doing that near the dogs antifreeze and dogs don't mix Man what a clean car you got want to trade? :tapemouth Is that a yes? What a nice car you got don't use cheap parts on her try to keep it all Nissan parts it will be worth it, and keep in clean. You might want to get some fender protectors she has what looked to be nice paint and I'd hate to see a tool damage it

Sorry the last post don't mean much now. You have bad gas the engine sounds lean yet your dumping it out the rear. The choke out like it was the engine should have been around 2,400-3,000 RPM yet it was at idle speed. Don't rev the engine to much you might need to re-lash the valves you can do some damage without the proper valve/cam spacing.

No that could be several things but not rich, popping usually means lean. Bad gas or to lean of mixture, stuck valve, bad timing, vacuum leaks, emmisions equipment going bad . . . can cause this. Next time your out their start her up and pull the choke out a little (not all the way) does it go away? If so that means your lean so bad gas, not enough flow, or lean mixture.

Yes it can start with the wires wrong just not all of them. Hear is the firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4

Use the throttle lever the starting fluid it should start it

I don't think you flooded it, I think you are starving it. Sputters are low fuel or bad spark (sometimes flooding and engine will sputter, but you just turn it over two or three times and that will be solved if that is the case). Gas will be poring out the carbs if you flooded it, it takes a lot. Spray some starting fluid into the carb now instead of draining the floats fill them up with fresh gas and give it a try pull the choke back. You will be rich but you should start I hope the picture will help that you asked for. If you hooked them up wrong you will soon know when it starts. Have you gotten a timing light if it gets to running you might need it.

The car will run without an air cleaner just be careful not to such things in you don't want in the engine Great and on we go one more problem out of the way. If it is turning and getting smoke that isn't a bad thing. You stated she starts to turn over what is she doing in more detail does it start to sputter, start running then die right after . . .? Next time spray some starting fluid or fuel into the carb and try to start it. By the way did you get some fresh fuel for it yet or are we trying to start on what came with the car? If you did not change the fuel do something for me before adding starting fluid to the carb take and pour fresh gas into the float breather tubes this will fill the float chambers. Then try to start the car if the car runs for 30 seconds or longer then you need new gas no and ifs or buts. If it still won't start spray down the carbs, then try. Let us know what it is doing while trying to start that will be our clue to what is not working from timing to something else.

Don't buy they swap what ever they don't have in stock with the urethane. Then they tell you, "so what it's not a big deal use them" they pulled one of the last straws with me, exspecialy since I spent about $800 with them. They played a similar game with me before now they are done in my book.

THe DMV would be about right

That might help, and you should replace those parts anyways if it don't work it will me time to learn persistence, and how to diagnose shorts

The insurance company would go after people if they found out you did this, if people put their cars up for sale at a higher price in the area than normal they would find him a higher price for his car.

Ya some of the illustrations of the logos will cause problems. I know Ferrari is very protective of their horse, the pictures of the cars should me OK, just some of the logos I wouldn't even touch with a pole.

Check with a lawyer. I did some art that people had that concern, basically the logos are part of the subject and are not being used to sell the object directly is OK. So if I illustrate one of the BRE racing cars that would be OK, but putting the BRE logo on the picture frame would need approval by BRE. It gets quite gray if I illustrated the BRE logo as the back drop of the car, and I would want approval by BRE or a lawyers statement.

I know it is to late right now, but you might have qualified for JC Tailor's collector car insurance if you had a garage. I recommend applying for collector car insurance even if you don't think you qualify, be honest with them in the application you never know unless you try. If you are denied ask what you would need to qualify. It is one of the best deals you can get in the insurance market I've helped many people get this insurance that never thought they would qualify, up till this year I was getting a gift card from one mans wife for 7 years every Christmas for saving them so much money, he was happy too.

I hope you had an appraisal done, it will help, second get a lawyer. I know I'm not a big fan of them but I think you will make a lot more back that you deserve. Beside I might like insurance companies even less. ArnieTX I've seen pictures of his cars and if he gives you a good deal you might be back on the road. My biggest concern is damage past the firewall that's when the body work starts to get really expensive. The other is damage to the block, and transmission like cracking. To bad I never got to buy my car back from when I was hit I know you could be on the road between the two cars, I was rear-ended at 85mph while stopped by a mini-van (theirs nothing mini when you are in a Z). Hey I was thinking, about 2 weeks a go a Z was in Cregslist in my area, it was bad I can't believe he is driving it on the road from rust in the floor and rocker panel area. One thing I notice is the car is nearly straight except were it is starting to sag from rust, anyways from the firewall forward was very clean except the battery rust thing, let me know if you need it. I could salvage some parts and maybe cut the front off, and get it shipped.

Life is hard to make OK times great times because you know you can have it a lot worce

I think some of the more modern wheels look off on the Z. 15" look good but without a total low-profile look, check out my Blue Z to see how they look it had a stock ride height. Wheel changes can cause some minor problems lower profiles and wider wheels may require some rear camper adjustment; well their is not factory adjustment. The best camber kit to fix that problem in the one that replaces several lower bushings for a caber adjustment bushings. Or understand you need to watch the back side of the tire for ware since it will unevenly ware. I would recommend a directional tire they help make it easier to steer.