ajmcforester

Not bad that looks well worth the trade, in fact hide the car he might want it back. Make sure you take care of the rust spots in the pictures soon that is bad stuff. By the way the wheels were probably worth more than the boat. American Racing still makes the cap for these rims, Summit Racing sells them it was the cheapest price. The caps are a little different they snap in instead of a backing plate the screws into the hub like the old ones do. Nice looking car I wish you luck with her

That's the attitude whats a little color on the floor, and the manly smell of gear oil.

Can you be my dad so I get a black pearl for Christmas :cheeky:

New guys need to post pictures to get responces

That's about right it goes directly into the main part of the diff without a baffle valve, just a cap. I'm just glad the rack don't do that, and the engine, and transmision

You hit it on the head you need to practice before you make the weld. I can't tell you how many times I see people turn the welder on and just start right on the project. It's good to have scrap or buy some if you don't have the right thickness it is an art you need the right speed, technique, wire, gas shielding, and settings. It isn't hard just try things out before you start on the project like the $10,000 car instead of the $5 scrap. Besides practice welds can make things tabs and braces to hold things in place, to even door stoppers (I have my first weld on a door stopper).

Well the day after I raced my first Z I'd find about a dime under the car

That is why I thicken the panels in the weak spots, and added some fibers to keep it from pulling apart. My panels are now at or reaching 40 years now, I'm just trying to make them last. I hope what I did will keep cracking down for at-least 5 years but hoping for 20.

Ya all the 240Z I own let some oil out the breather. Well the last one didn't till I found it under the road grime and cleaned it off, so it wasn't really a breather till I cleaned it I guess. It is made of two part the part the screws in and a cylinder shaped cap, you have the cap. Did you take pictures, maybe you have more spill out than expected???

OK I got a plastic welder and I came up with a great way to fix that area. That is simpler. Good idea use a feathering motion with the heat gun you will see a restoration of the color that is when it becomes playable and not to soft. try not to touch the front side in-case it gets to hot. Not a good idea use heat to help create bite. Just use a little paint prep or alcohol to clean the oil off a good idea before applying any heat It is ABS plastic either melt some ABS plastic or use ABS glue it will fill in I added support with fiberglass drywall mesh to add support melted it into the original plastic on the back and added more ABS plastic; Without a welder I would heat the plastic up lay into the surface the mesh and use ABS glue to cover and make it thicker. The fiberglass mat won't move like the plastic. On the early 240Z you will not most with original center counsel has small cracks, because it's fiberglass mat backed over plastic. Not Good same as 5 Things I've learned is ABS gets brittle on the surface and can cause cracking heat will bring chemicals inside the plastic up and make it more durable (don't have a clue how many times that trick might work and I bet the sun and other heat sources will shorten the amount of times). ABS glue works well on mending the crack so you can't see it on the front side, it does not help the plastic be less brittle in that area. New plastic welded to back to make it stronger and adding the new plastic seems to reinvigorate the plastic in that area. Looking at other things made of ABS now days they are a lot thicker, about the same thickness as the ABS plastic headlights or thicker. Also some more, but ask away I was going to do a wright up but who am I kidding I don't seem to ever find the time for that:rolleyes:

Just keep it clean, don't let stuff build up and make sure the paint isn't cracked, and make a point to wipe that area all the time.

Nope same at least when I got mine they were. You made me pull out my books to check that one out.

Yes I did use the MSD coil on my 72 with a ballast resistor with no problems. Now you would not want to use the MSD multi spark box with that resistor. The coil and resistor went about the same time the resistor about two days after the coil, bad week the coil went out on the highway and coasted off the highway next to a auto-part store. The resistor went out near the Z shop in Lakewood, so I got a used original.

I had the resistor go out you bet it will stop your car. It won't work without it. If you want to save some cash the MSD Blaster II coil sells for around $35 at the parts store and has the same output numbers of the factory coil. It also matches the air cleaner.

Well I would for a E31 head and the original engine was shot. How about some pictures?

Ya I've heard that I learned originally welding with gas and TIG is very close so I usually just TIG when I welded and when I used a MIG it was 1" steel, wich is a big difference.

How about using a series two hatch, they don't have the vents, and you don't need to modify the original. If you are going to get rid of the vents you need to get rid of them completely. Putting something in to fill them up is asking for rust, and fiberglass would not be a good idea. If you plan to use the original hatch you need to weld them out, and it migh be easier to use a different hatch without the vents. The statement about major fumes has me concerned, yes you can get some from the vents, but not enough to call major. If that is your main reason fumes your going after the wrong thing. Let me explain how the fume problem happens with Z cars. The air flows over the top of the car and down the hatch and keeps this slope past the hatch well that creates a vacuum behind the car and we dump our exhaust in that vacuum wich pulls it under the car. So the problem is under the car. You have two problems one is your is a series 1 and the second is you have worn seals that kept most of the exhaust out. The series 2 they did a lot of work and added weight to help seal up the rear half of the car The best thing you can do is use seam sealer and reseal the old seams in the back half of the car. Next replace the worn seals in the cab. Look at all drain seals, take the plastic covers off and check all the hoses for the covers that seal the holes including around the filler neck and rear lights (big area to have leaks) you might want to just replace these seals. If the hoses are old you might want to replace or use some silicon to help seal. You can use silicon on all the seals if you like but it might not be necessary. The other thing to do is extend the tail pipe to just past the bumper this seams to help a lot of people.

The shocks can be rebuilt that is what I plan to do. I was looking for a place but the restoration shop stated they can do it they have some sperm wale oil that they get recriminated sp? and use. If you are getting rid of rebuildable 240Z shocks you might to see if a British, Ferrari, Lambo, and Pantera sp? shops could use it they might buy your shocks for the oil. Their is no better oil in the world and these cars diffs would wear-out early without it. The Italian sports cars even use it for transmissions

That's OK I had a ignition that any key would not turn, I was trying to find witch one, well this time it turned one way and my 200SX key is stuck :0

Instead of using a socket why not use the correct tool to put it in. Auto Zone you were able, i'm not sure if they still loan it, had a kit for replacing seals check it out. It onlt takes a small nick and you done.

Looks good, nice bending. To help get better penetration for a stronger weld try beveling the edges you will find it helps. Also round the corners more nothing like welding right angles, then having to grind them down.

If it is original paint why don't you stick with it for a while. It is only original once

Stainless is corrosion resistant Ceramic would give other properties like heat-shielding and should last just about as long. You can also coat the stainless in ceramic if you wanted to

In CA I bet they know what it is in. Philly I get asked who makes it, is it fast, what European country is it from, who is the manufacture of Datsun, and if I run into someone who was into cars in the 70's they start to yell in excitement ushally stating I haven't seen one of those in 15 years that is so (cool, sick . . .), that is such a keller car and on and on. Did you restore the car or was that the paint that came on the car. If that is the paint on the car when you found it you can call it a barn find, trust me they don't look that good coming out of a barn.

Design wise not a whole lot. I know that some people in the 70's ran a front bearing oiler system, that was very rare. My biggest concern would be age with metal fatigue. 35+ year metal that has bent and flexed and vibrated, then put it under 20-24 hours of hell sounds like a potential for failure. So I'd check the metal. The car isn't as convertible for racing as some newer car so anything that can be done to reduce driver fatigue would be smart.