ajmcforester

Another thing you could look at to help at high speeds is the G-nose that Datsun made for better aerodynamics in the 70's

I found the Louvered ones MSA, but they want a $300 core Not good for you: http://www.thezstore.com/page/TZS/PROD/7BSA03/50-1451 This company below has them list for $70: http://www.showcars-bodyparts.com/240z.html

A lot of air gets trapped against the firewall. someone was making louvered inspection lids. This may help release the trapped air since it looks like your racing the car. It might not matter I don't know what speeds your reaching and if it would make a difference.

Three of the locks are in great shape the little doors on the passenger side only has 3 little scratches and looks barly used, same with the glove-box and rear-hatch. I don't have a key that works in these locks so I thought get the key made that matches these locks and re-key good lock for the driver's side and have the ignition redone the key does the famous fall out while driving trick. I had a cop ask me why I was idling in the parking lot while looking for the key, he let me off but was a jerk about it:disappoin While thinking about is does anyone sell new rubber pad for the deck-lid lock?

It would not be bad to have the Datsun Mechanic do a full tune up, and really clean her up. Once it is running well learn how to work on it then, trust me you will have projects for several years, getting the this and that's fixed.

OK I found the number on the side very lightly stamped in and not in the same position on the locks in fact out of the 6 sets I own none are stamped in the same location

I know you are a lock smith I have been reading the boards on this thanks for your response you would now better than almost everyone. I was talking to a locksmith about repairing the drivers side lock and the ignition switch, and getting the key made to match the other three locks. I have several old keys that one may or may not be the correct code. So I can only use a key to unlock the drivers side and the ignition, I have no key that will unlock the other three locks. I have found any key cut from the correct blank works in these locks. I have several locks that can replace any bad ones, they would just need to be adjusted so you can use the same key. So to save money and cost by not re-keying all the locks I was trying to find the code. By the way I have the glove box paper with no numbers on it.

OK I found all ready from some pictures of peoples warranty books and cards that I have not found the numbers. I would think they would have the numbers stamped someplace. How did the dealers know to wright it down?

I'm looking to find my key code for my car. I have most of the paper in glove box nothing written on it. Not written in warranty book. I noticed a number I can't match up on the bottom of the warranty card is that it? I have the locks out, on the ignition I found a number that is different each of the extra ignitions I have, and including the original. It is a 2 number code that uses numbers and letters. Is that it? I didn't see any numbers on the other locks.

OK I'm agreeing with what people are telling you about a tune up, I think your problem is not going away with a carb change. Don't get me wrong a single four-barrel carbs can be a nice setup, but if the engine is not tuned and working properly your just throwing money out the window. My question for you has any one showed you how to properly tune these engines like doing valve lashing, adjusting carbs, testing compression, timing the distributor, replaceing points . . .? I think you have a great resource in your back door for this the Florida Z car club is a very active bunch and a lot of members to this site. I've heard how much they help out, why don't you contact them and see if someone would help you tune the car, or recommend a good specialist to tune her up. Changing out carbs and trying to get around the problem by changing things up gets people into trouble. I hear the new guys doing this with changing and getting rid of points before the car runs right. Why add more things to the problem. I'll tell you that these cars can sit more than two weeks and run well, unless they are out of tune. By the way what type of driving do you do and what gas mileage are you getting, does your car rev smooth through the power band?

I wish that was my can, I'm waiting to hear from the seller it might become mine.

No I was thinking of this one they gave with a car durring the gas shortage

Next time at the auto part store pick up some stuff called dielectric grease you put it on the connection to keep that from happening again. It's real good for the ends of spark plugs, it keeps water out and the boots from sticking. Do you have power to the coil now?

You should get a reading from the wire connected to the bolts and from the coil without cranking the engine just in the on position. I want to know if you are getting power or not to the coil first. Learning to fix wires is a paint, but if you take your time you can figure it out. It is like moving into a new city you need time to learn how traffic moves and where things are if you look at electrical that way it would tick you off as much.

I've seen longer

Now you have a goal, you stated you had an L24, what head, are you using the smog pump, any aftermarket exhaust? This engine will meet your goals, you might want to stiffen the diff mount in back, but the car for the most part can handle a 50hp gain. I recommend getting it running like a top first, and answering the questions above first so we can have an idea on what we are helping with.

Good news the reason you look different is someone all ready converted this car away from points, you don't need to covert anymore. No spark and funny looking wirering around coil???? Could you go thought and clean the connections one of the wires next to the resistor looked a little dark, and tighten them up. While your at it get the red wire off the coil wire, that isn't a smart thing to do it can mess with radio reception and has the potential of arching. Next you should get an electric tester of some type. The ones with a bulb in a awl will do. Ground the tool and turn the car to the on position, then check for current at the coil, and from the coil. If you get no light follow the wire till you do and let us know

Vacuum pulls exhaust under the car, this is very common with hatchbacks. If you look at later hatchbacks they flatten out before they reach the back unlike the Z to fix this problem. Now when you open the window you create a vacuum in the cab to you have a rear vacuum and the cabin, not good. I try when driving to just use the floor vents for air they seem to have a positive feed and it seems like they reduce exhaust fumes

DO to the best of your abilities and tools. Yes over tight bolts can cause damage to the bolt threads and the adjoining part. All the bushing should be to torque you don't want them to tight. If you even want to be more accurate stretch the bolts instead

I'd recommend just a little past it pushed the gases into the slip stream and not under the car. Even with the bumper not good for this. So my answer is C:classic:

If that was from the fiance department, I'd call that new tires for Xmass:laugh: By the way I tried to get tires for Xmass but it didn't work

I thought you had spark also, why don't you reinstall the points since you had spark with that. When I picked up my last Z it had a pertronix set in it. It was having problems and was not working right. I don't care about their system replacing points and maintaining them isn't that hard, that is something that I don't ever plan to put on my car. I don't think it is a bad product and when it is working it would be nice, but I'd play with it after the car is running right, not when your trying to get her to run. I don't need pictures of the fuel but you had some in the floats. Did you check after you drained the first time and tried to start it again? If so you are more than likely getting fuel.

You might want to talk to a performance shop. http://www.eaton.com/EatonCom/ProductsServices/AeroquipPerformanceProducts/HoseProducts/index.htm Note the Starlight hose http://www.holley.com/Index.asp?division=Earls Note they have several lines that look similar. Summit Racing sells the lines also, but I think you need to buy 5' minimums

Did you get the car or just a picture? Cookware and some knives for me. I got my car about $2,000 in parts.

You might be OK using the rear vent lines for coolant. How ever what are you planning to do the new braided water lines covers everything, but three small pieces? The line from heater valve to heater core (~4"), and the pieces from the rear tube behind the engine to carbs, then the one carbs to thermostat. I have heard people using areoquip (sp?) hose to closely match the old lines. The ones that bring the bigest problem are the vacuum lines that I would not use the fuel or water lines for.