ajmcforester

I love well handling cars, and the Z was that at one time I know I could buy a new car and get better handling, but then I'd need to go faster to get the same enjoyment. While with the Z it holds the road well enough that it won't flip easy, but the hardness of what it can take in the turns is less so I can push it without doing speeds that get all the cops in NJ chasing me. I also like the simplicity of the engine, and the car as a whole, the only newer car that comes close it the S2000 and I thought about getting one when my first Z was destroyed, but they are a tight fit and the Z looks cooler.

Thanks Arne for your comment that is what I don't like about most other sites, about his comment. I think the big question is how far are you going to go??? Now I have thought about a turbo L28 engine with a e31 head, with enlarged 280Z valves. The e31 head has good shape and flow dynamics, the biggest problem I see with a stock e31 is head over the turbo head is the higher compression and the valve size. Many times when converting to turbos you need to put in a thicker head gasket or a head spacer to increase quench and lower compression, something a good how to turbo your car book can help out with this will depend on the amount of boost you plan on and pistons (yes you should convert to a dished piston) . . . Next was the valve size I used to hear on some of these sites, not so much recently on putting 280Z valves in a e31 head. One of the problems that mentioned is the valves would touch the cylinder wall and the question was to notch the wall at the point it hits or leave it alone. The conclusion sounded like it didn't matter either way in this case, now I don't know if you would have this problem with a L28 I think they were talking about L24 block, but this also was some of the confusion that was made, was the different blocks. Now if your willing to put this amount of time in effort into the engine guess what you need to do the same to the turbo system, yes you can grab a turbo intake or run mukni (sp?) carbs, but you will need a custom exhaust system to fit, which could be better anyways. If you go to build a custom turbo system with out using the turbo head please post I probably never do this but I'd like to see the progress. I don't make the dough needed to have several Z cars so I can make a turbo car I, want a nice restored one first.

Math and cars go hand and hand as you learn more the students that are into cars you can learn how to engage their interest in cars into math. To determine the right cam and its timing uses trig and calculus, with basic physics of flow dynamics. Even calculating carb size and fuel injector size is critical for a well operating fuel system, you go to big or to small the car does not run optimally. What idea of power do you want out of the car, do you even have an idea yet? The L24 is a good motor, I like it. However you need to see what you got first. My first Z when I got it, it was so badly tuned the rear carb had gas pooring out of it after the test drive, timing was off, clutch wasn't adjusted properly . . . the guy told me it's a little slow these z cars aren't fast (I must of had the weirdest look on my face hearing that). I guess he was right the car had been running on two cylinders regularly and occasionally on three, I was surprised it ran. Well the first thing I did when I bought the car was go around the corner and adjust the rear carb's fuel adjuster so it would not flood out the rear carb. Guess what more power That car needed a lot of TLC to get it road worthy, but when I was done I was happy. Learn the car first learn what you want, who knows maybe this is not the car for you even. It is what I like and I can tell you about Corvettes all day also, but I rather have a 240Z over most Corvettes;)

Your going at it the wrong way just like these tuners. First off figure out what you want the car to do. Daily driver, drag car, track, weekend driver, street racer . . . This includes looks, power numbers, speed, braking, safety . . . Then ask can this car meet what I want? If yes then what is needed to meet my needs? Make a starting list then do research to figure out what would be needed. Lay out the car before you even start to modify, otherwise you will half arse the car or even cause damage or even make the car unsafe. Look at the budget and make a list of what can be done first and what order things need to be done. You might not get everything perfect off the bat, but you have a direction and a plan that will guide you on the development of the car. The guy that starts with a role cage and frame stiffening when building a car is the smart man the bones of the car need to meet the needs of the car first, and drive the slow car with the role cage. Not the guy that starts with engine mods, and ends up dropping the transmission or twisting the body or what ever else he damages on the way. Besides what head do you have on that L24 block the e31 head modified on a L28 block can make some serious power. The e31 head is the best shaped head and can be retrofitted to fit 280 valves to make a start of a great NA engine. These are the things you might want to think about first, would I like to go with a triple carbs or fuel injection . . .

I'd say 120hp on the high end for one in good condition might be right for a 240z that would be about a 20% power loss at the wheel with a good performing engine and drive-line. These cars have some power, tune the 260Z up you stated the valves need work well how much power is that costing you? How worn is the engine? Do you have good compression? is the drive line in good shape, how are the bearings, hows the clutch, how is the points and wires . . . You don't haft to go crazy to have a good performing car, just good care goes a long way

I agree just changing one thing does not make power. It needs to be a systematic approach, the whole car needs to be looked at as a package. Even the caliper and rotor sizes can effect performance of the drive-line suspension and braking. Bigger tires can slow cars down, but to small a tire and you can't apply power properly, tire size can also effect turning and torque and hp at the wheel. A cam is like a set brain it tells the engine how long the valves should be open and when, so the cam needs to match potential intake and exhaust flow rates, with how long the valve can be fully open, that deals with piston type valve size the whole nine yards. Even when you want the engine to create power. Now lets say you hop-up this engine, and you do nothing to the drive line you won't get a lot a power to the wheels the whole drive-line needs to be upgraded to match power-bands from the engine torque . . . Then you need to change the suspention system to match the driveline, and the tires so you can apply the power then the bakes need to be changed to match the new driveline and tires, then the driveline and suspention need to match the brakes and tire forces. the diff will need exsta mods to match the stearing and the stearing needs to be modified to handel the new forces . . . this goes on and on till you get it right. This is also why I shy away from modified cars usually, because 99.99% of people modify cars don't look at the whole picture, and the adjustments that are needed to match their modifications. This won't mean I'll buy a modified car, I have in the past; it just means I need to see what is needed and think it is worth it to make the adjustments, or the car is well balanced from the seller.

Sometimes I wonder about what I hear about oil. A great example is ZDDP for flat tapped cams like the Z's and FJ Cruiser (yes it has flat tapped cams actually two different types also). Now it is said that you need ZDDP for these cams well it really isn't found in most oils and I don't hear about ruined cams in FJ Cruisers and Toyota does not say you need it. The big question and one that might lead to longer life for our Z engines or less waist on additives we don't need. Did Toyota do something to make solid lifters and flat tapped cams work without ZDDP or has modern technology made that chemical less needed? I was contemplating this and looking for data on why, and have found little to no information about why. Then I thought about technology that we have now that they didn't have in the 70's. One thing I keep coming back to as an idea is cryogenic treatments, but I can't find information if Toyota did this. The treatment make metals more durable without changing a lot of the steel type's properties. So if we strengthen the steel this way would that make enough of a difference? I have heard of people doing cryogenic treatments on these parts for durability and longevity in racing.

If you dye the stuff the closer and cleaner it is the better. I've dyed a dash in a 66 corvette once he didn't clean his as well as my spots and he had me do the whole thing for him. In return he bought the Holly four barrel for my 80 Datsun 210, one of the best upgrades I've done to a car

I used mother but if you need a little rougher in spots that headlight polish system would work (the headlight stuff might take the detail out so try others first). I'd recommend a buff-ball they weren't out when I did mine. I was lucky enough to trick about 5 neighborhood kids to help out with this so I might have been better than one buff-ball. I'd do as much as you can on the car with these panels before you take them down. They are thin and easy to brake and almost 40 years ya they want to brake. They are ABS so you can get white ABS glue for cracks I just apply it to the back with some fiberglass mesh tape (find the glue in plumbing and the fiberglass tape next to the plaster). Heat gun trick actually works areas that just won't buff out gently heat the area with a fanning pattern. You just want to bring it to the point just before it starts to become playable. Keep the heat gun moving the whole time or it won't work. You will see the color revive right in front of your eyes. On the vinyl I use 5% white vinegar (what you get in the store) mixed down with a 10:1 hot water, and a whole bunch of elbow grease (hot water will save a lot of time). Be careful with what ever you use on old vinyl I'd keep it mild and more elbow grease. In some spots also try baking soda with a little water and a stiff brush. Remember the white is actually an off white don't mix the vinegar water and the backing soda unless it is a nasty area, and only to get the crud down then finish with one or the other on that spot. Otherwise you will have white stains that will be inconsistent.

If you use some plastic polish and a little bit of heat after the plastic panels are very clean you can get a lot of the old color out look at my first 240Z the blue one the color so bad I thought I had darkend butterscotch not off white with white seats when I got the car.

You never can tell until you tackle it how bad it is, but you need to tackle it yesterday. The longer you hold off the more damage. It don't look all that bad now, but in a year it could be trouble. Remember to get the two sides of all panels, so many times they get the rust on the front and several years later the rust on the back comes through. It is important to do a good job you want it to last ideally you never want to do it again.

there's a float drain on the front bottom of the float, it's a bolt with a copper or brass washer pull this off and drain then crank check if at any time you don't get gas stop you don't have fuel in the carbs. Next if no gas to carbs I'd hook up a pressure meter to the carbs if you don't have one disconnect the hose place it in a cup and see if you gas when you crank it. Before it get to confusing send a message after you do this with the results

If I still lived in Flagstaff, I might take a look 25 isn't a bad starting price for only 240Zs if their was 260 and 280Z mixed in that might be another story. Besides I could take them to my cousin's place in Kingman he has a salvage yard with no Z cars, he will let me know when he gets one. He has 3 Hudson Hornets, I thought of restomoding one a wile back, but my second cousin in Michigan might kill me since he restores Hudson for a hobby.

It would look better than most shirts out their. However the worn retro look with t-shirts I've thought the Datsun Saves gas can would be a good custom shirt if done correctly

I think some lists might help of what people are looking for the Datsun classifieds have not worked well for my start of parts clearing, I don't ever have 1/10 of the parts that don't match my car listed that I have. Honestly when I listed to make an offer make it, when you ask me how much I look online for what everyone else is selling for. Just make it somewhat reasonable or they will go on eBay I wanted to open first dibs to this group because these are the people that help me out. I don't want eBay prices they are over inflated if you ask me. If they don't sell on eBay or hear I'll scrap or throw it out. It is costing me to much room now. If you see something I might want let me know, I'm very open to trade I'm restoring a car mine that I'm restoring in a 4/71 production. I'm going to post a L28 JE Piston kit with other parts like springs, intake valves . . . A splash pan for a later year Z it was sold to me as a 71 pan but it don't match up so it is a later year it looks like 9/74 and later

slingblade On 70-71 240z the ash tray sits over top the fuses with the cigarette lighter. these plastic ashtrays are very brittle and are rare (compared to how many people need them). I had a 72 with the defroster switch in the door, and the ashtray was moved to the center of the console, a much better layout.

I'm looking for parts for a 71 240z built in 4/71 I know your post stated your limited in parts for 240z, but I thought it wouldn't hurt to ask. On the ash tray/ fuse box I would also be interested, also the heater control panel, what year is the dash and condition, thermostat housing and fasteners, the coolant out take and steel hose that goes around back, the correct engine hoist brackets, I think I have everyone, but my year, rear Supper Sprint muffler/resonator rubber blocks for holding the brake lines bottom seat foam rubber stabilizer bushings steering rack bushing upper strut tower bushings Nissan weather striping for the door By chance did you keep factory fasteners?

Thanks Mike, I was touring the US in conferences when that post was made

I've seen pictures of his garage, I would not be surprised if you could build a Z with just a shell and his garage.

Sorry to bring up an old thred, but I can't find in my parts catalog the part number for the 240Z pan screws/blots. does someone have it?

Not that long a go I thought I saw for sale a set of rubber isolators for the hard lines, and now I can't find them. Does anyone remember seeing these and if so who. I need to get a set my car's are shot.

I've seen this on the road I went to look at one Z when I got their I notice the car was sagging well it was buckling from the rusting out and the guy was driving it. He got out of the car and you can hear the rust grind against its self:paranoid: It is a shame many of these cars could have been saved if someone cared to take time to repair the rust when noticed, but its only minor rust they say. The other is its not running right throw it in the back we'll fix it or sell it later, then they want the price of what the car was worth running, and in the condition when they stuck it in the back 40.

Be glad it's not a 87 Ford Ranger E10 messed with the computers and I would go from 27 to 23 mpg (15%) on E10. It would also take 2 fill ups before my gas mileage was back to 27 mpg. The E10 also would damage the fuel injectors on this year (I can't remember what other years). This was when I drove it everyday, when it was driven one or twice a week E10 dropped to less than 20mpg. Their was some research done that show some minor increase in rubber deterioration with E85, now I can't remember what periodical it was in so don't ask (this is the only one I found about increased damage to standard parts, I found several about damage to the engine, but they were very shoddy studies running straight ethanol). In the study they simulated gas cooling and heating like what a car would experience allowing moisture to collect inside the tanks. One of the things mentioned was they don't know how much of the deterioration increase was from the water or from the E85, or the higher rate of decomposition of the fuel. Note these are things cars experiance from sitting. Were a lot of people are confused about needing to change things over from methanol, that stuff was bad it would eat holes in plastic fuel tanks, hoses, . . . everything would need to be converted. I don't see why you need to do something make sure you have good fuel lines, use fuel stabilizers if it sits for more than a week. That said I'd complain about it I don't like how it burns in my cars, my cars are not driven everyday so I only get gas once or twice a month. In my current vehicles a 240z and a FJ Cruiser I've documented a greater decrease in MPG especially in the FJ (I don't always add fuel stabilizer to FJ unlike the Z) the longer between fill-ups. I don't mind it to much if I drive a lot but when they sit the E10 causes problems.

It's not that bad the secrete it a good wax job every 90 days and change you cleaning rags constantly in case you pick something up in the rag. Things a good Z car guy should do anyways.

Yes that is why I stated a nice cover no cheap ones. MSA is quick on getting parts out when you need them. I had a bit of falling out with them a few years back when they went through a staff change, and don't rely on them as much