ajmcforester

Too bad his birthday is so close, otherwise you could get custom fabric made and do a one off

Ya I'd find a doner car and cut patches, and clean up the cuts they made so you can get a smoother weld. aleast you can access bowth sides so you can crush weld the panel.

They are no way in hell different. I would be easier to make a new one than try to make a 280Z pan fit. The radeator core mount is different the suspention geometry, it don't fit

No a 280Z pan will not fit you need a 240z pan I have one for my car and the 280z pan. They are different

Replate them

104 was the octane level I could get at one time. your right if you calulate the octane need its between 95-97. However the argument that 91 is 95 try running the higher octane and lission to the engine with a scewdriver along the valves you will hear a difference. I can't here a differnce between 98 and 104 octane on these engines.

Their is an advantage to an early E88. The earier E88 had the same cylinder profile (hart shaped), the later E88 to reduce production times was circular and don't breathe as well. True their are some other milder diferences, but that is the main one for performance. The other big one is the copression, the E88 has a lower compression and with lower octane fuels that we are all now forced to use it is actualy the better head to have. The E31 head needs 104 octane fuel this is a big disavantage to the E31 head. Infact my neigbor is a biochemest for a refinery and I have talk to him about what I can do to make pump gas 104 octane. With ethinal and low octane I've even thought about getting my own gas pump.

What year Z, and what speed do you notice the vibration. The early ones had a shaft vibration at speeds over 55. the old joints might have dappened the vibration. The speeds the vibrations start and sometimes stop give clues to the issue at hand.

You talk about changing between bolt paterns, and spacing what wheels are you looking at? You might want to look at changing the hubs. This might not be a bad idea. On my first Z I looked into several rims and the cost of custom rims were minimal when you add in the spacer cost. SO I went with Colorado Custom rims. It was worth it because the wheels fit perfect.

OK that is made from interior grade particle board or also called interior hardy board. The problem in when it gets wet the glue in the material seperates. So avoid moistue it will brake it down more. I'd use wight and presure to flatten, the iron idea is not bad, but remember the glue in the board burns at low temps also. If that dont work make a new one you can buy exterior and interior grade at the big box stores.

http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/46443-antenna-rebuild-restore/ THis also might help

http://www.classiczcars.com/topic/39699-antenna-mast-plastic-string-replacement/ This might help you can see pitures of the tip and how to remove it

I did a full restoration for the pointy tips even how to replace the cord. Please look that up. The whole mast can be taken apart the tip unscews and the can be fully taken apart. Well worth the time to take apart clean and put back together. Now I need to find the black dome like thing and it chrome cap to complete mine

You don't need bigger to get a better tone, nor to you gain instant power. Unless you have upgrated something to increase airflow a larger diameter exsaust is not going to gain a lot. Infact you gain a droning sound in the cab. These cars a quite with no mufflers, they just get a bad raspy sound. If you want a more agressive sound replacing the muflers with resonators or glasspacks would help mild down the raspy sound yet you will gain a more agressive sound when you step on it. It might gain you some power since the exsaust will have a more unobstructed path. Supersprint made a nice exhaust sytem back in the day. I have an original set and if you type supersprint in the search you can read all about it. The sound is like an early european sports car. Basicly the system used the same diameter exhaust with: one resinator at 12" long, with inlet and out let at 1.75" the two over under resinators in the back at 12" long with inlet and out let at 1.5" The pipe follows that same as stock except the Y added to the rear resinators. Then they welded 2" chome pipe 1.75" diameter pipe has a aproximate flow area of 2.41sq" 1.50" diameter pipe has a aproximate flow area of 1.77sq" 1.5" pipe times 2 is 3.53sq" this falls close to a 2" pipe, but less that a 2.25" Just for kicks I priced the resinators online in stainless steel I found the 1.5" for $11.45 each and the 1.75" for $13.74. Highend conectors (so you can take it apart) $2.50 each times 2 for $5. One Y conector $2.50. With new pipes from the downpipe back with 4 bends, last I checked a shop charges $20 a mandrill bend. About $40-$45 of pipe (stainless of course). 6-8 weld about $10 each. one can of exahst spray paint $12. and lastly two chrome tips for $25 (got to have the bling). Plus hanges I forgot to price them. You can replicate the system.

You should leave the color codes on the diagram. I'm clasified as color blind, however can see all colors, but some colors are very muted so I need the codes to help. You stated you have this in a CAD program, what about making the program highlight wire paths when you click on them this might be a usefull. This way instead of lousing a path in the diagram it would be highlighted.

High quality car wax does wonders you will be surprised. Then use barkeeper’s friend or Bonami on the spots that did not clear up. Don't use any scouring powder Commit and others have courts and will leave micro scratches. Bonami has feldspar instead and is softer than glass. If that don't work Mothers and several other makes a glass polish to remove blemishes.

I was thinking you might want to oil and clean the cable if it is gummedup it will not move smoothly.

The Heywire is cheaper price. The only problem with this one is large wire can't be used.

By the way he used the tool wrong in the vidio. Acording the the manufacture you twist the wire around the stems 1-2 times the twist the wire ends together.

I don't think these wheels are painted originaly. some people don't like how they look over time a paint the rough surfaces. If you let the rough areas age they will adventually become a grey and get darker over time to almost black. So if you care for the wheels the smooth surfaces they will have that shinny alluminum look while the rough areas will darken to a dark magnisium color. I like this look. For your problem the key is the gold is just gold paint, if you like the gold just get a gold color you like and paint them.

Just clean the tank then sorrer it back in that is what I had to do. My first car the large vent ones came louse also.

That is a nice car, but if I owned it, I'd duble the miles in 2-3 years

You need to get the bumper back to shape, otherwise you will have this problem again. The other thing is you can put the rubber pieces back on the bumper when you weld the bracket on, that would cover the blue sections in the chrome. Paul's Chrome is one of the best in the county, it might be cheaper to send your bumpers, and have them repaired and re-chromed from them than to buy a new stainless steel bumper.

Frame will need scratch so you can call it an off road device, but besides that the frame looks great

The problem is to re-weld the part and to make sure you have good penetration will more than likely discolor the chrome. Otherwise it will not hold. You might want to talk to a bumper chroming specialist they should help many prefer to do the repairs because some people just do not do it right for re-plating. My question in the first place is why did it brake, did someone hit you, was the bumper not fixed property before. These just bolt to stabilize the bumper and when the bumper and fenders are good their is only a .25-.5" gap.