ajmcforester

On antiques it is not ware or discoloration, it is patina

I have tools that hit 100 years old that I use all the time keep on using it, it isn't worth having if you don't use it.

I also think a classic is a car that defines something. Exe: like the VW bug does for VW, or the VW micro bus does for hippies (why not the Chevy Corvan I don't know), the Z for Nissan/Datsun, Mustang for pony cars, 57 Chevy for the 50's, Civic for tuners, . . . These are nice cars but were not always special cars their cars that became classics by what they represent. I bet you told anyone who bought a 57 Chevy Bel air how much their car would be worth today they would of hauled to you off to the asylum.

See if you can get a shop out their to put it on a lift and check the underside my last Z I flew out to look at 10 different ones that were "rust free" only 2 were. The first rust free one I really liked but the owner thought he could get more that what he asked because I flew out to look at it. So principal put me on the search again. Take your time don't jump at the first one that states it is rust free you will be sorry, and make sure you go out and see the car.

I thought the word vintage may scare them more, but they call mid 90's cars that:D The Idea of the first gen Miata be a classic I want those guys/gals to join, even though I didn't fit till the second gen came out

Did you find one without rust or you think fixing rust is no problem? If you have no rust car then get it now!!! Hear is a link that will help: http://www2.zhome.com:81/ Scroll down to: Buying A Z Car-tips: - General Discussion - What To Watch For -Common Rust Area's On 240-Z's - Guide To Classics or Collectable Z's - FAQ's

OK we don't need to excite the adolescents, besides "pornography" is easier to define than "art" A group of us is looking to start a car club that cars can become qualified as a club car. The club is for all Japanese manufacture's collector cars, we want to include some newer specialty cars plus all classics/antiques as we define. By having club cars parts and supplies for the car becomes tax except. We don't want to turn down members, but we want to limit certain vehicles. We don't want this to become a tuner club after we put all the work into it. Nothing against tuners it's not the direction we want the club to go. I was going to define any car over the age of 25 years a classic, I was thinking 20 years. The reason for 25 is need to take good care of a car to last that long 20 years is a long time, but basic maintenance would keep a good Honda going that long. Besides this would only be used to define your standard vehicles like a Civic, 200SX . . . On the specialty cars we are looking at using production numbers to define a car as collector or not (sorry 350z/370z guys you might not qualify), and have a different number to allow rare special editions to qualify. I'm still working on the rules and how I'm going to include restoration cars and race cars.

Dave, I like the work you did. Don't ever get NJ tags. I'm hoping Steve's looks a lot less obvious. Dave, how was it making the LED boards?

Like you want classic plates in this state, read the restrictions, the list is long of how you can use it with those plates. However no one seems to mind the restrictions, including most of the cops.

I survived the scenario you just gave with a 240Z with minor injuries. The Pinto had two bolts that would pierce the tank. It wasn't hard to fix a rivet or padding fixed the problem.

I'd hold on to the old one for a while yust in case you need it to make some repairs.

I'd take Arne up on his offer to buy him lunch he has a lot of Z car knowledge, you would gain a lot about what you want and what you need to look for.

Without that mount point you would be flapping in the wind. I wish I had a fender off picture that would really help

Ya Carl looking good like ushual. Can't wait for mine to look that way . . . Hear are some pictures I took them from the right easier to get to in my garage I some of the back side in case you might want them. Besides Carl was first with the underside picture

On the flasher at least you didn't remove all the bulbs so you know it works with the front bulbs being the old stuff. That's not as bad as some of the things I do at work (for geekyness) like measuring the flow rate of tree sap. The are the leaves cover in a tree just to name some of the dorky things I do at times not to mention the ever fashionable forest surveyors vest with the built in backpack section for extra marking paint and lunchLOL.

Most people mess up by not warming the vinyl up and using a heat gun to keep it soft, but not to soft

I've had a 240Z totaled from the rear and wanted a brighter light. I wanted to go with LED lights. The problem is in New Jersey the law only allows LED lights if they originally came on the vehicle. This might not stop me if you can't tell that they are a bunch of LEDs. Could you take picture with them all light up for me I'd like to see how it looks? I like they have bulbs that have the duel intensity and are designed for turn signals. Originally on the first Z I was going to make the LED upgrade and was researching the stuff then I took a job in NJ and found out I couldn't have them. Anyways at that time you needed special components to control the flashers and brake lights, so I planned to use the wire connectors and make it all plug into the factory wire connectors so I would not need to modify the factory wires. One other problem that isn't a bad thing is the bulbs fadeout they don't really burnout. If you add more power as they fade out you can maintain the brightness. How it was explained to me is that the bulb wears out it will increase resistance, to counter that more power can be supplied to gap that resistance. I was also going to add to that wire a resister designed for LED bulbs, they add power as the resistance goes up. Now that they have bulbs with the flashers and duel brake light bulbs I might wait if I get them to see how long they last before adding these resistors, it might not be worth it anymore.

It is to dark now and cold I'll take some pictures tomorrow. It loooks like your missing a bracket that the fender bolts to you'll see tomorrow

Now I was using a stock non-emissions exhaust manifold, wasn't Tony using headers. Maybe the headers provide the proper distance and diameter needed for the engine to get proper flow. looking at the difference from 2.5-3" their is none on his graph they pulled the same. Now I would not say from two different sizes that their is no impact based on size, I'd say on 2L engine that their would be no impact from size 2.5"-3". I hope you would agree that you can't make an inferences on the differences diameters create on power with only two data points to compare. All I can confer, understanding that if we went infinitely small the car won't run so their would be some type of curve, maybe it peaks maybe not their is not enough data to confer that.

What size Mikuni's are you looking at? That is an expensive and really nice setup. I wish I could ask more but the time tells me I need to leave to meet the Chinese delegates at work.

Look the first thing I mentioned about sound is example of how confused people can get, not fact. Second I stated you do get higher power on the top end, so yes you can get more. Yet he did not give from start so it is hard to comment on that part and what other mods did he have from stock. I'm sorry you think my test was out of my butt. I might not have had HP and torque numbers and I didn't mention we had set distances with stop watches. That might not be the most accurate, but it can give you a general idea if you went backwards. The reason I went down to a 2.25" is several people that had worked on these cars since the early 70's had found that out with the 240Z and they had a higher diameter recommendation for the 280Z. This is not exact and their are things you can do to improve flow in the pipe design. Those guys from that sight you posted explained a point I also made that a pipe that expands in diameter can help flow. That is what the horn like exhaust systems do. The exhaust does need some length, but not the length of the car. That is to aid and vector the exhaust away from the engine. A great example of needing some length is the Ford GT40, they could have dumped it straight out the side, but they made what was later called the web exhaust do to how tangled it was to cram the piping in.

OK their are a lot of miss under standing out their on how exhaust systems work. I even heard that tuned headers use the sound waves to aid in the flow of air. A well laid exhaust will help in flow, diameter can have an effect on power. lets look at nothing which acts like maximum diameter you will loose power exhaust leaks do the same thing the closer to the engine you are. The ideal setup is to have the pipe expand and gets wider over its length at a set radius. This will help create a flow dynamic that aids in moving the exhaust. This is something I experienced using an exhaust manifold and 2.75" pipe it was slow off the bottom end as the car got into the higher RPM it was faster. I reduced the pipe diameter to 2.25 and the car started faster, but didn't accelerate faster at the higher RPM. Weather this is scavenging or some other affect it is the case.

I have pictures, lots of pictures of my car and I might have the one you are looking for. My car is less than 25' from my bed so I can get pictures if not. To help can you take a picture of the area in question so I can get what would help you out the most?

I would take #1 if it is after I re-chrome the bumpers and #2 if before I re-chrome the bumpers