ajmcforester

That don't look to bad it will be nice to hit the rust and see how far the rabbit goes(figure of speech). Especially on the drivers side. It looks obvious for the passenger side. If the rest of the car looks this good you will be in good shape, but I'd bet on hole in the floor, and some rocker and dog leg rust repair. I'm surprised how good some of the parts look.

Ya someone looks to be able to get some scrap framing metal. If I was doing some floor replacements or structural panels I'd add a support bar to the rotating sections to tie them together that way the car doesn't twist but to just gain access to underside that thing is more than enough (for a large truck, or old Cadillac)

Their isn't much difference from what I heard about the 3 or the 4 screw carbs, other than the screw patterns. I don't know but I'd bet you could use the pistons in the dash-pots interchangeably and a lot of other parts, I bet Bruce would know if that was the case.

They didn't lay it on as heavy at mine then if it only took 4 hours of scraping. I've lost track on how much time it took to get rid of most of it I still need to do the tunnel. It saved the car even the paint took good under the coating

My 4 screws have water heating

How are the heater hoses coming? I'm hoping I'll be able to get them because they are hard to replace, and while they are out it's time for the new ones.

If your going to replace them don't skimp get the grade 8. Mine didn't swivel

My first Z got 35-38mpg on road trips. Used to tell the guys at car shows that gave me a hard time about driving Japanese car that I get about the performance with better gas mileage and ask what they get for gas mileage, shuts them up 95% of the time.

That is why I jumped in quickly to help I thought this was a great thing. Back in 2003 I was talking to my friend in Gates Rubber about doing accurate reproductions of the hoses; then of the other rubber parts. His bosses liked the idea if we could get all NOS for z cars from 240z-280z to make the molds. Well I called MSA and several other shops explained what we are doing, they would tell me we like the idea and let us know when they are available, but we won't let you barrow (or buy in some cases) our NOS stock. So it ended.

I have broken the exhaust into sections I haven't heard a think. Arne maybe it was harder than they thought it would be?

Didn't you clean this tank out, maybe you have twist in the hose?? Shine a flashlight down the fill tube you can see inside the tank at the right angle.

The little tank is a vent tank to collect expanding gasses. Those extra hoses don't mater, actually if you haven't replaced them I'd block them off for now. The hose is nearly straight into the tank I can't see how it would back-up. Can you go into what you see when your pumping gas.

That is a type of body wrap that is cheap and easy to put on. I've never used it, I've only used solid vinyl. The vinyl wrap company in Maple Shade I've worked with does solid vinyl.

I'd ask around at that price, we got the stripes for the Torino for under $200 and they had to order a special vinyl to do the gold. I made the vector files, but they scanned the template I made. I also worked for a pesticide company in the early 2000's we would get custom vinyl for the 1200 gal elliptical trucks for $250.

It depends on humidity other things when storing stuff like this. I own some vintage Smokey the Bear vinyl stickers from the 60's & 70's even the glue is good on them and nothing is discolored, or hardened. Be sides I think the people on this forum would like to find a set to use as a template to make new ones. You really don't want to make reproductions of reproductions, you will louse detail. If you don't believe you would louse detail get some sketch paper, and copy a simple image, put the original away and make another copy of the copy, throw the first copy away and do this several times then pull out the original. Actually would not use an original on the car I think they would be more important for reproduction purposes, and I don't think any one on this forum wants to use originals on the car, but they would want them to make reproductions. I know esprist sells reproduction parts who knows he might reproduce them, that would be great his attention to detail is what you would want;)

Don't just measure if you get a chance trace like I stated we just did that with a Torino GTS. He tried measuring what a mess when I traced it on the car we got great reproduction results.

I wonder how many people would be interested in having a set. Honestly to make them might not be that bad to do if have enough interest. If I got a set do to the cost of the covers I was going to make a fiberglass mold to make more covers. All you need is clear polypropylene plastic, a kitchen oven, and a good mold. this method is good for about 4-5 sets, but I didn't see me going threw more. I think the rings would be the hardest to reproduce.

Good luck I'm on the hunt for a set their are re-manufactures being made but I was told by people I trust that has seen them, they are junk. They also cost over $400, so I'm still on the hunt. I'll even take ones with cracked lenses.

I'm 6' 4" you need to remove the spacers on the seat and you will fit with 2-3" to spare. If you don't remove the spacers you will hit your head a little on hard bumps. You will be fine

It would take some time, but you could use ones on a car to reproduce a set, the hardest part would be getting the colors correct with a faded set, and finding a scanner to scan a large pieces. Since these were added on top of the paint I'd get some opaque illustration paper (I think that is what they call it, you know the paper used to hand copy an illustrations that you can partially see threw), in sheets large enough to cover each decal section on the car. Then tape them into place in a way that the paper sits tight against the car without moving. Then with a soft pencil (makes great rubbing no #2 hear) do a rubbing of the edge. with rulers and engineering drawing guides draw/trace the graphics with a hard pencil (keeps the line more consistent and easier to erase mistakes). Scan it in and use a graphics software to reproduce the stripes to make the vector file. esprist, I also know that companies like Fast Signs claim they can reproduce stuff on the car you might want to call around some local graphics places maybe they can help reproduce them.

zed2 Isn't technology great before machines like that you had to trust some guy could look at it and mix by look or trust some formula that used different paint. The machine will just about all the time get you close if not exact, then you can adjust from their. I did this with my first Z the blue one to get the paint to match 20 year old paint, so I could make repairs from cracking on the hood and rear left fender. When I was done I found no one who could tell what I had repainted except me and the guy who did it (we didn't even blend the panels.

You should look to find an original set, nut measurements, then take them to a good graphics shop and have them make a vector file. With a vector file just about any place that does vinyl can reproduce the graphics, I think even Kinko's could make them. Once you do that you will never need to look for a set. For you non-graphics people a vector files uses mathematical lines instead of raster (like dots) to make the shape you can make the file infinitely large without distorting. The downfalls to this file type is thing with fade or processional change don't convert well.

Thanks for your input I think it will help. I thought I heard DuPont was making the paint for the factory restoration however, I might be wrong. I fully agree that under the interior pannels and would ad on my car the inside of the tool compartments are good places to see what the color should look like. The only other way to check is to find a panel stored, void of light, and reactive air. On the pictures I might make a website that I'll post link to. I've taken over 300 pictures so far. I love the digital camera.

That is the one I want, I'll contact him. Thank you for the tip. I was going to put a post up to see if I could barrow an original to scan and create a vector file with. Then post the file with measurement so anyone could take it to a vinyl shop to cut a copy out. People could also make template to paint them on also. Even Kinko's and some office supply stores could make them with a vector file. I'd get several made and give one or more to who ever helped with their originals. This is not hard to do anymore, it would only take an hour to make the file. I'd have new stripes in less than a day.

The blue one in the picture was the first Z I restored. I loved that car I would not have traded it, I even turned down a $40,000 offer. I was hit while stopped at 85MPH:sick:. I came out OK but the Illegals got away without their kids. With the insurance money I am restoring a 240z I found in Detroit she lived their for 6 year. She started life on the streets in Beverly Hill with the original owner who had her for 31 years (I was playing around and found a aerial photo in 72 when she was getting washed in the driveway). She was sold out of an auto spa with a BRE spook (missing trying to locate an original), AC (getting rid of that boat anchor), and Datsun's side-stripes (I'm working on replicating). In 72 the original owner did a surgery that saved this man's life in return sometime in 73 she got JDM headlight covers. In late 74 she was hit by someone pulling into a parking spot. In the repair she was painted the factory red, the right door, fender and the two headlight buckets were replaced including all supporting brackets (the BRE spoiler and the JDM covers were never replaced). The last owner had this as his first car till the winter when his parents got him an additional car. It got some type of front damage the left inner fender wasn't fixed properly and the hood doesn't line up well at that time it was cheaply pained orange. I talked to Marquis Auto Restoration they can fully repair the panel without a replacement panel. Then I got it in August 2007 I drove it to NJ from Detroit, one of the fuel pump valves went west of philly and limped it into NJ. I drove it around for a while and made sure it was sound mechanically and fix electrical or anything not working properly (except the tach, but I ow one from the first z restored). Around November 2009 I started the tear down and the full restoration. I want to have her done by this summer, and done well before April 2011 for her 40th. Well there's a short overview about my car