ajmcforester

I have two shops in mind Marquis Auto Restorations in Philly (very well known shop) or Huff's in Asbury NJ (not Asbury Park wrong side of the state). Marquis is closer and a nicer shop and they will get it right , but it will cost a lot if they haft to fiddle quite a bit to get the color right, so info to help get it right before it goes in will keep the pocket more green. I have thought about changing the color to an easier one to match like green or white, but then I'd want to change the interior color to brown or blue accordingly. Besides I've gotten to like the gold since owning her, I think the best part is how it reacts to different light. I don't think I'll win best color awards with it, but I've never like to follow the crowd

I had been keeping up with that forum and that is why, I'm more concerned about color matching now. It sounds like the color from the manufactures are not as close as they can be. I took a panel down to the BASF paint supplier company he looked up the color in the computer, and brought out the samples, they are not close to the original. I showed them the numbers from the TVollnogle post and some of the other from that forum, also. He thought I might be better off finding old paint, after we took the panel into other lights. I'm still not ready to do that yet. I don't know if I want to deal with the PPG store I went to it wasn't clean enough for me to have someone mix paints for my car. I'll see what I can find from a DuPont dealer soon. I don't want to be figuring this out when my car is at the shop it's one thing if figured out now can save a lot of money on the tail end of the project.

I agree the modern paint is a longer-lasting paint, the problem is the colors don't always act the same. This gold is very interesting on how it reacts to different lighting. I've seen newly painted cars looking correct in direct sun and not get that change effect in the shade like the original paint did. I've also seen the exact opposite. If I can achieve a factory looking paint with modern paint that's the rout I'll go.

OK I'm going to use a restoration shop for paint and some dent repair. One of my worries it matching the #920 paint code. This isn't a common color and I've seen some color matches on Zs that were not to my par. I have seen some that look very accurate also. My question for you #920 guys is what paints gave you the most accurate to original finish and color? And anything else used to get that original paint look. I'm even considering locating original paint, but that might be a little extreme.

I might have a running newly painted Z by then, but I don't know how complete she will be. Will see if she can make it.

I had a friend that told me they were my smuggling compartments, he first thought someone put them in for smuggling till he saw another Z with them. I actually like them for dates that way I don't haft to guard the purse.

In the tool compartments make sure you check around the foam, it should be glued, but on my first Z I found the information about the BSR motor replacement in that spot.

If you get welding paper and put it on the rim you can protect the rim while welding

Well that's dumb of me to assume he would have tried vise-grips before posting.

Thanks I could not remember what animal the company was named after.

OK I had this style their is only 5 different keys, at-least when I had them. Call a good tire shop, and explain the situation and see if they would help. My old tire shop in Colorado drove out to deliver a new key when mine broke on the side of the road. A roadside assistance, or tow truck might also have that key. This type is very common. By the way see how much pictures help!!

You could if you don't mind risking damaging the rim, snap the stud. Put a long pipe or a socket with a large cheater bar and pull it will snap, then replace the stud. If you do this on that rim take all the other lug nuts to where they are nearly off that way you will put the most stress on the one you plan to break.

If you had the code you can get a new key, but if your on this site asking a doubt you do. If you get a strap wrench on one that isn't tight maybe you can get one off. If you can get one to a tire shop they can find the key for that lock. If the grooves are on the side the top of the nut is not all that hard so you could cut them with a nut cutter and peal it off. Could cut a notch in the center and use a screw driver or something like a screw driver to twist them off. Separate the suspension and bring the hub, assembly and tire to the shop, this might look funny but hey it would work.

Eyes on the road not on the cameraLOL Boy is he loving that car I hope he helps you out.

Sounds great some people have put plans up for some nice rotisseries over the years you might want to do a search of the forums. Also you can find some nice made units that don't cost to much, were all you need to make is a good mounting bracket. Theirs one out their that you don't need to lock to keep the car at a certain angle, but you can rotate it when ever you need too.

Only if she was around when I was looking for a replacement I might have seen if I could overlook the Automatic Transmition. Nice car great price

I'll give them a call

Aw yes I've been so lucky not to damage those spindle pins, they are easy to damage and not cheap. On the factory thing back in 2004 I was blasted when I tried to explain what I found out about my first Z on what was one of my earliest posts. I was explaining the engine was replaced by the factory . . . well I was blasted because I used factory as a general term for Nissan Motor Company. I pulled my post and didn't post for almost a year and then only once or twice very sparingly and ushally a day or two after I read the post I wanted to reply to. Till about 08 when Zcar.com changed their website layout.

Who in Canada Zed Saver?

Then you run into cars like mine that were modified before it was sold as an advertisement piece at an auto spa. Were they added AC, the side stripes and a BRE Spook (if you know of an original, I'm looking for one). They sold her for 5,300. Now I don't want to say my car should be considered original restoration if I brought back to how it was sold a BRE Spook would be a hard sell as original. I feel that some of these options, with proof they were put on before bill of sale should be excepted, especially the AC units since this is very common. Also you will find in other cars that period correct before sale aftermarket AC units are accepted as original to the car, even some other cars that had AC as options, allow aftermarket AC units. The last time Carl tried to talk about factory, the factory police came and I didn't see Caral on the boards for almost 2 weeks. Well I better be quite before the "factory" police come.

In the 90's I had some Bilstines (sp?) rebuilt, these were not for a Z. Maybe their might be a company the rebuilds shocks and struts still? OOPS I notice we are talking about the rear hatch, well someone might find what I was posting good. I just grabbed one of my spares I don't see how you can recharge it. It is sealed pity well. Three thoughts come to mind drill a hole and put a valve in from like a mountain bike shock. Find out how it was made since they would have had to pressurize it somehow in assembly. Lastly replace the shock portion. If someone comes up with a good way please help I rather use the original one on the car or I'll repaint one of my good mechanical struts that has some rust my self

Great find keep us posted on your car. I like the seats I think you finish the interior it will look sharp. Get the factory manuals on CD they can help, and post questions you will get it running great in no time. The 240-280z are fairly simple cars that are not that hard to work on as soon as you learn some basics with them.

You used the word factory I wonder if the factory police will come. I wish we could have a good forum in what can be considered optional accessories for restored car competitions. Some different cars have rule that allow for some dealer modification. Also establish more specific rules with higher details. I was watching a 240z get judged at Hershey, PA it was quick do to the lac of detail in the judging sheets for the Z it was not even close compared to the Corvettes or even the sprite that set next to the Z. Higher technical rules will help the Z car become more collectible, and give a utilizable constructs to aid other in restoration. I just pocking a little fun at a frustration I've found with this site. Just remember true factory options is a myth.

JDM not originally sold in US made for Japanese cars don't know what the exact acronym words are. Seen it used with aftermarket and NOS parts NOS = New Old Stock original parts from factory old parts just new condition never been used

The nice thing about the flattops you can buy them for a little more than their scrap value, so get a bunch and your good right? Tips you will notice some people will talk about what year they have with the month. What they are using is the production date which is a lot more helpful than the model year. Also some of the changes on the early Zs did coincide with the model year. Like the early 71 series I have more in common with the 70 year than the later 71 year for example. OK I'm going to use the word factory now just don't blast me for it because I don't want to see that again. "Factory" options didn't exists in the US version except colors, but dealer "factory" options and aftermarket did (with some odd exception to this). Be careful how you use factory on this sight we have people that get nasty over the use of that word and they will make you pay, if someone starts to get nasty over that word walk away they don't care what you think. I would not be surprised if the search that word for victims. Also head numbers can be important, you will hear E-31, E-88, N-42P(might not have that one correct). These heads are factory heads from different years. The E-31 is the oldest and my favorite head and makes great power with a hart shaped combustion chamber. then the E-88 now their is tow versions of the E-88 the early small number (size of the numbers) and the big E-88 with less compression, they have round chambers, and where simpler to produce, the early E-88 is my second favorite. After these heads you start to see some drastic changes for emissions. Well off to the store