ajmcforester

Hey thanks for the tip it worked out great I went to Auto Zone with that number, well they don't sell Trico, but they typed the number in and found the match from TAAP CORP (their part number 5-642), USA made for $14 and change. The only difference I can see the the wires which is easy to fix and the numbers stamped in the side are different. Here are some pictures also the old pump is always on the left.

I've driven all Z and ZX models released in the US but the 240Z when I bought my first Z it was a basket case, but when I got her running right I tell you it would take one special Z to get me away from the 69-72 years. The only problem is they need the most maintenance of the Z's. You could get around some of that by making a hybrid of the later year Z's, like adding fuel-injection, but that's not what I want out of my Z. Z models that I would have taken over the 240Z, a Z432, ZZAP, BSR Special Edition, heavy race modified 300ZX not the 92 and later years. The next choice would be the 1977 280Z, especially the one I almost owned if I waited one more weekend before getting my first car. I didn't know my dad had worked to get this Z car untill 10 years after the fact when I got my 240Z, then he told me. This Z was the cleanest I've ever seen that had not been restored. The guy he worked with my dad one day when the battery in his Corvette didn't start he gave him a drive home, it was love at first sight. Two years later when I got the 200SZ, when my Dad saw the car I got and how excited I was to fix it up he didn't have the hart to tell me about the . 280Z, 10 years later my hart sank when I found out the 200sx would have gone to the junk yard in a flash for that car. Well sorry for getting off topic I wish you luck with your search, if I was you with two 240Z in your back pocket I'd find a 240Z. Maybe a 260Z but I wouldn't look for a 280Z and expect to use the 240Z for parts they don't interchange well, besides the engines and I think the intakes.

I remember getting excited over several cars and not buying them for various reasons like rust. I hate rust it never sleeps and it hides good luck take you time finding what you want, the nice thing is you only need a shell and maybe some this or thats now. Try to find a car without the rust don't be afraid to go out of your state to find it. arizona is loaded with cars, most rust free with shot interiors and engines the weather is good on the steel yust not the rest of the cars. You can find a lot of good low rust Z in Colorado, New Mexico, and California. Try these guys they seem to have a good shell around all the time: http://www.zcarsource.com/cars_and_shells.html I'm also know of a junk yard 20-30 minutes north of Denver that had some nice shells. I know a guy with one in a shed (at least several years a go he did) in Arizona when my first car was hit I was looking to buy it and transfer my parts over. The block was good but the head was cracked so you can still have a matching # car. I know it was built in 69 I'll see if I can find his info. I just moved a month a go and haven't got everthing orinized yet

Ya, I can agree with that last statement, but I remember my first car a 84 200sx with the 2.2L engine. My Mom would not let me spend the money I earned to get a 1969 plum crazy purple, and white covertable Dodge Supper Bee with the 440 sixpack, because their was speaker wires hanging out the back seat (you know for those box speakers). Well two weeks later I was junking with a friend when we came a cross the 84 200sx on the side of the street with a sign say not running will sell for 500. Well I bet my friend that I could get it running by the afternoon I did and it became my first can and broke down on the top of the hill to my parents house on the way home I took her apart fixed it up and modified it basically I was a early tuner in the early 90's. I put more money into it than I would ever get out of it, but it was worth it my Mom couldin't say a thing about the condition because I got if for free. I had the only one in school and was faster than most of the car I came up against. I say if the body work will make it not worth doing don't do it, but if the reward of making this car whole again is worth it do it. Remember their is a cost to satisfaction, rewards and fun.

To repair that rail you will need a frame straightener, and since it is a unibody you need one with a body jig, not something you want to tackle. My car had some work done in the same spot, but was not full done properly. I plan to take her in and have a restoration shop do the body for me, you got to remember I found a car were the only rust was two pin holes in the rear panel and light surface rust under the battery around the drain plug around the spare tire, and a light surface rust near the sound pad on the floor on the passenger side. The roof is also badly rippled. I'm taking her to the best restoration shop in the Philly area it will cost about 5G to repair the roof (that's all hammer and Dolly work more than an amateur body mechanic like me can do) and 3,500 to repair the inner fender panel drive-side, no rail damage. If they can't repair that panel to weld a new inner panel section will cost about 4,000 and I need to get the section at that price. To fix the inner fend on my car, they will need to use a frame puller just setup for that is 1,000 if that helps you figure in cost. Now the hard part is how much rust is their on your car? You might want to look around for an Arizona car that's just a shell. The other thing is maybe you could get a restoration shop to come over and give you an assessment of what is needed, not a body shop, restoration shops cost more but they are less likely to take shortcuts. If your going to need frame structure repair you might need to use them, they would have the equipment right their. If you go any farther you might want to see about getting a shop involved from time to time when you need their help (I am, I learned from the first 240z I did it's worth it at times). You also might want to look at the cars for sale their is a white 71 for 11,500 in the classifieds section of this site. If you stop not consider the #1 car since you started on it will become a parts car no two ways about it. Any-other way you would be lucky to have someone take it cars that are partly taken apart, no one wants. I hate to say it let us know if your going to part it out I know you have parts I need. Depending on work and the time of year, I might fly down to help disassemble the car to collect the fasteners. I'll let you know just about everyone goes threw this realization of what they have no car looks as good as you think, and your finding it out. If you keep going and you don't compromise what you want out of the car the more work and time and money used the more you will enjoy it when it is done. You will have about 5-10 more times when restoring it that you will fell like this, especially when you start doing the tedious tasks that take time, like cleaning out seam sealer or polishing all the small parts. . . but you will have a day weir you might be wearing the headlight bucket on your head (don't ask me why but it seems every Z car restoration someone hast to put that on their head, I think it's the chemicals??). Just don't have someone convince you to compromise what you want otherwise don't do the restoration it won;t be worth it.

OK now I know what you have how about a 3 into header going into a Cherry Bomb Long tube mufflers made for side piping. For a while they made them in black, but white pipes would look great with that color. Make the opening right about weir the 280Z logo is with a round-bar rolled edge like the Banshee had from the 60's Also with what you have going how about a G-nose kit for the front. The G-nose was a Japanese market only Z for aerodynamics, that you can get aftermarket (they don't make the chrome bumper any more but you can get it in carbon fiber). That would give a modern/classic look Also a 240z rear bumber. Maybe a louvered hood or the factory hood scoop (rare item) these items help release trapped air around the engine. I'd also look at some different wheels if you do side pipes something European in fell or mid to late 60's, those aren't bad rims, with the side pipes the car would take a late 60's European look, or mid 60's american cramming a V8 look like the Cobra or the Sunbeam Tiger. By the way nice job with the engine I like how it is set back, it looks like you got it slightly behind the front steering.

First off some info on your car would help and pictures. With the inline 6 you are only going to want to side-pipe the drivers side, I'd look at the 60's Corvettes for your exhaust look, they had a nice heat gard on them that help you from burning things like your leg, or dry grass. Also look at white or black ceramic coating I've always like the white. The other thing is what are you trying to achieve? If your looking for a more aggressive look I have some great ideas that are easier to pull off like fender skirts, spoiliers, hood scoops, hood and side vents, racing stripes, fender mirrors . . . For a good sound how about Thrush muffler or a Cherry Bomb, maybe even an over under glass pack setup, very vintage racing for this car.

If your just trying to get into the driveway use a come along, and wench it into the drive way or have two or three guys push you. I think the good question now is how far are you moving it like stated before?

I'd call and get a flatbed or rent a truck and trailer from U-haul, Budget. . . they have stuff for that ya it might cost you money but rushing around causes problems. Get it some where you can work out the problems then fix it I don't recommend driving a car with bad brakes or brakes that were fixed in a rush!! You can cause a lot of damage if you don't think this threw.

How about the Ford SHO, nice balance between power, room, and cost. It comes with all wheel drive. Ford parts are also cheaper so it can cost less to maintain. I'd also look at the Flex, the G37, and some of the Lincolns, maybe the Mini Cooper (they are great in the snow). I know some of you are rolling your eyes but Ford has made some drastic changes for the better.

Now I had a white interior 72, and I knew people with the blue like mine with black, I think your list shows the other color besides black that were available? I also thought the blue interior was available with the white body, I know it was for the earlier years and I thought so for the 72 also.

I think that might be the best bet to cut out the spot welds for the tray, but the inner fender you will more than likely make patch panels to replace rusted areas.

I thought you'd see more rust on your clutch surfaces than that. the battery area don't look that well, that I've heard is a hard yet common area to repair. I've seen a lot worse, I think another 5 years out side like it was and it would have been scrap, maybe even less that two.

I agree, but try a fuel filter first its cheaper than the fuel pump. Is your timing at factory specs?

The soda seems to be the way to go. I met a guy in the Gloucester City Ratrod club, he wanted a rust finish without rust scales, so I told him about browning methods used on firearms (firearms were treated with a chemical to start rusting then another to stop the rust creating a protective layer, called browning, it is not widely used now that blueing is cheaper). Well he had it soda-blasted and the chemicals would not start the rusting on the panels that where soda blasted. Last I new he was trying acid etch to get the surface to wear he can rust the panel.

Cars with uni-body construction the whole car flexes a little with the weight. Now we have seen on Overhaulen and other shows them putting the engine in the last munite, well that is because they have a frame and the body does not flex (within reason). You don't need to put supports in the engine bay unless your cutting any of the panels out for repair or replacement. However you need to brace the car when you take the floor pans out and I'd recommend putting the engine in so the car will sit right, brace the car then take it out again. If you do that your door gaps will match better when your done. I judged "professional" restored corvettes that didn't have this done when repairs were made and they lost many points on the gaps not being up to par. Nothing like paying 15-20Gs to have it done wrong.

Well it sounds like you went the expensive way to eliminate spark as the problem. That leaves compression, fuel and air. My bet would be fuel, check the fuel filter, if you haven't replaced it recently put a new one in, I'd try that first. Then check fuel pressure then clean the injectors. It realy sounds like a car starving for fuel. If the fuel filter is relly bad you might need to clean out corosion in the fuel system to fix the problem

You should be OK if you take the fuel rail off. I'd recommend taking the carbs off and the emission control stuff, it will make getting the motor out easier. Also the linkages are a pain to get for the early 240Z's. When you have the engine supported by the engine hoist, I would disconnect the trans. The engines and trans were put in from the bottom not the top. You might also want to put the rear wheels on the cars weight will shift when you remove the engine weight and I would not trust all wheels off and just jack stands when that happens. Some tips you might need in the near future Don't make the engine pretty yet you will be putting it in 2-3 more times so you can get the body to fit right or make it pretty and use the other engine to get the body right. That is the advantage to having two cars ones cars parts can be used while the others are be restored, and as a reference car. Remember to put the engine and trans after stripping the car to bare metal and before you put in supports to keep the car from twisting. After you put supports in you can remove the engine, and trans. You will also put it back in to make the final panel alignment just before paint. If you don't do this you run the risk of having a car where the gaps won't line up well when you put it back together. I can't tell you how many cars I see this on it just takes the engine going in two more time to prevent this problem. Good luck you are realy moving on getting this car apart

Be careful don't loosen the cam towers on the head, very few people in the country have to tool to reline the towers, and it won't be cheap. You can take the cam out just don't un-tighten the wrong fasteners.

Look at that healight bucket better it maybe ABS plastic, if so that is an original for your car. You can only get used ones or metal ones now. I have two extra ones for one side I'll find out later what side if your interested. The plastic ones where only used on the earlier Z's and there is a history and story to these plastic buckets. I don't have the time right now to scan the microfiche copy and post it for you. If I remember next time I'm at the library with my microfiche I'll make a copy to scan, if your interested.

That is not the best way to patch the car that is how they would do it at a body shop, it was more than likely glued on (it is strong it just won't last over many years of use. If you find more like this do #1. By the way if you can get the car up enough you can drop the engine/transmition and front suspention from the bottom it is easier, to do that you need to take off the intake and exhaust. to make sure things don't go out of line you may need to put the engine in and out several times to make sure things line up when the weight is on the wheels. Also don't start cutting until you brace the car other wise it may fold or bend out of shape (this isn't hard as long as you tack-weld well). Also consider using bracing in any area you see a lot of rust before getting stripped, if you use a good media blaster they usually stop before blowing out to much rust but why risk it. The more I look at your pictures the more I notice the hard to find parts are their, it is just a lot of rusted areas that need some work and cleaning the rest. Are the seats new or where they that nice in the car?

Yes their are tools you will need. One thing I recommend to use 6 point sockets they do less damage to the head of nuts and bolts. If you plan to use the original style of carbs first find a British car specialist they can teach you how to tune SU carbs (infact when you get the car together have him set the carbs for the first time). He will direct you to get a airflow meter, and some type of exhaust meter, you will need it to get the two carbs to sink-up well. I have a lot of fun with these carbs differnt oils in the pots make them act different and so on; you can really tune them to your driving style. Also the early 240z like yours and mine are faster than a 280z. The 280 was heavier and restricted by head disign and emmision control. For natural aspirated heads the E31 is the best, you can modify them to get more power I've heard of machining to get 280z valves in, but they will tap the cylinder walls. To wake it up and keep an original look under the hood try to find a JDM or Canadian exhaust manifold the have larger openings and no smog-pump plugs. These sell really cheap but you pay in shipping (about 25-28lb). If you look at them you'll notice they have good flow. try to get the down pipe to match, a least the top half of it. I'd also recommend not going bigger than 2.25" on the exhaust unless you will be increasing the intake volume or using two mufflers with some restrictions. Remember you have no cat you have less restrictions. I had this setup on my first 240z with a magnaflow muffler it sounds great and not that noisy. Also if you go to 15" rims tires get cheap it brings them to a Honda size, tip on custom rims it take .25" spacer to fit Honda rims they can look up what the back spacing is from that. You will be happy for ease to work on the 240 has a lot more engine room than the 280 you just have more maintenance jobs over a 280.

He does have the right combo for that the lightest bodies and the rare z