ajmcforester

sometimes with the project you need to understand when you need to go get professional help.I would recommend finding a very good machine shop look at the head what it would cost to be repaired. Removing the seats may make more work for the machine shop a lot of times they measure the seats before removing them make sure that their machine properly once replaced. removing the seats is an easy job for the machine shop and it's not worth worrying about the a couple bucks it will cost for them to remove it. good luck I hope it cost to repair the said will be affordable enough for you to do it.

OK got me look at this product. One of my concern is when a product does not have a MSDS listing on their website. When looking up product information and understanding what the product is made of is very important considering items like oil additives,and you cannot find any information about what in the product besides some very key catchy chemical like words. not to say its snake oil but there's been a lot of oil products in time that I used the same advertising method to us sell basically mineral oil in a can for 20 times the cost of mineral oil not to say that the product is that but they have no information on how well the product for text works or even met or even manages rustic a and the protective materials. Not the same that bar on this several the chemicals a mansion do have support of and the lubricating properties unfortunately they also have to be puttin in such a way to crate that lubricating process and that that there is also is important as the product itself. if I was to try anything that they did put on that website without a proper review information and maybe. Right lubricating material since its something easy to apply in Pollock be cleaned of it isn't worth anything.

Another convert, join the club I do not buy from them anymore.

I found one or two of these ground anodes when removing a tree, what fun to find a metal wirer coming up with a tree. Like you stated with the ground you need tranfer the electrons from point a to point b, how can you do that with just air

I looked into several things since I started the restoration of my Z car. I do research at work and what I saw as evidence on how well this works on non-aquatic devices had questionable methods or used inferences that may or may not relate to improved rust protection in normal atmospheric conditions. Some of the studies made statements that fell within the statistical variance. I'm such an anti rust guy that I even have looked at having the body zinc plated, primer powder-coated, electrostatic treated, and many other methods to reduce rust issues. Rust is something you got to work with by sealing and protecting the metal surfaces from contaminates and chemicals that can create oxidation. The cost of these questionable systems you can use a time test method of painting the metal then using a oil to keep water and other chemicals from entering chips and cracks in the paint. 1-2 cans on Gibbs oil will do the inside of doors, undercarriage, engine compartment and even a little left over to lube a couple stuck fasteners. Then use lock tight and anti-seize on the fasteners to keep water and chemicals from rusting threaded surfaces when ever you take a fastener out. This works very well for me, and I can tell when I missed one of the two treatments of oil each year on my daily driver, and the cost to keep up with anodes and cleaning rust off the contact points you might save money.

I was able to find my garage. I could not search it I just was one of the first ones so I just started from the last pages.

FYI sacrificial metal can create rust spot because they focus the deterioration to a specific spot. In a ship the weld new plates the mount the rods or bars. Go look at a hot water heater it has a rod and the first place it will rust out is the connecting points. If you don't replace offten just like a hot water heater your asking for trouble. I know it was something they were selling year a go, but it just does not make sense to do. I would spend the money and time getting rid of the rust you have and sealing the metal.

That transmission looks good from the picture maybe the linkages is the problem? Do they seam firm?

OK I looked at the pics on a 48" tv because it looked like it was leaking around the sert and the head. After blowing the picture up it rely looks like the sert is leaking. This is a little annoying since a special glue is to be used and the sert should be expanded to keep it from moving. It should not have moved if installed properly and was easier when the head was out. Well I think the problem is found.

OK that what they call them. I have heard the mechanics at work complain about them. That is why they like to run the spark-plug down to nothing to avoid risk of damaging the Triton heads. I asked what the problem they have with them. They told me that if the new threads that the sert threads into the block are not perfect it would leak or blow the spark-plug out all together destroying the head (we are talking about triton V8 heads not E31 heads so I don't think were going to blow up a head). They also stated they are a pain to get out unless the plug rips through the head. Well I guess I should not make you worry anymore until we get more picture and testing done. Honestly I'm hoping it is the sert, because that can be fixed without taking the engine apart.

It's getting worse, but it was about 10 years a go I moved to New Jersey from Arizona and Colorado. What I notice is how much worse the Pennsylvania license plate cars in NJ drive. They were bad now even worse. I just watched a car this week drive off the road and into the center median and the 50-60 year-old woman was texting while driving over 85mph (with PA plates). Or this weekend, how about the car following me so close in my FJ Cruiser on a divided highway at 50mph, that I could not see the car in any mirrors when I when to stop for the light they whipped the car off the road, over the curb into the embankment and hitting a parked car in a parking lot. The worse part is I knew they were back their and I slowed down slowly to avoid getting hit, glad I did not need to avoid something else beside them.

When you pull the plug is the oil on the threads going into the head and if so how far? If the oil is coming from the cylinder you should find oil on all the threads if not then it something with the head. The compression should read within 10% of average your a 6.5% to 8.5% depending how you take the average. The high side is a little high, but is what is considered accessible. EuroDat was recommending a leak down test this might not be a bad idea exspecialy if you find oil on all the threads. Basically it gives you an idea of how much the cylinder chamber seals up. Also I was looking at your picture. It does not look like the repair method I like. Please take picture of the hole when the plug is out. I hope they did not use a heli-coil (sp?), that would explain a lot. Lets hope it is the threads. The good thing is their are some kits for repairing threads and even putting in thread seats without removing the head or the engine. The kits use a die that and drilling bits that slide into the plug hole the screw out to keep things from falling into the engine. I've help or installed about 4-5 plugs and used dies to repair about 15-20 holes. Also I recommend using anti-seize on the threads, especially with aluminum heads this will help in keeping the threads from getting damaged so you don't need to make repairs like you had to with this block.

Welcome good choice a 911 is fine, but a 240z stands out.

Pull the plugs, if the oil is getting in the cylinder will see it on the plug. You can tell a lot by looking at the plug, maybe post pictures of the plug. If the plug is dirty then do a pressure test. My concern is the plug repair nicked the oil gallery. The good thing is were dealing with a aluminum head so if cracked it could be repaired

I had something on this site a long time a go about fitting. Basically on the end of the filter, the rubber sits to high. To fix this cut the center 1/3rd rubber to the mesh and it will fit.

What cool setups you found. I've seen pictures of the webber setup, but not of the SU setup, and that was over a decade since I seen pictures. I was wondering what they did to the SU, I would assume the carburetor would need modification to supply the proper fuel for the increased airflow. I was thinking about your idea of running the system, and how much turbo technology has improved, especially in making things last. Unfortunately the old systems like that burned things out very quickly and ways have come available to reduce that (their is a reason this is very rare). What about using a modern turbo and have a new J pipe made that can hide a waist gate out of site. It would look original yet allow for some of the equipment to help reduce ware and the new turbo spool better and longer so you would get a larger power-band. The other thought was to use a water/methle-alcohol or nitro-methane injection before the turbo, this will aid in some performance and cooling of the turbo. It would only take a small plate and the injectors can be on the underside to hide them. The water/methle-alcohol was used in WWII so it is very vintage way to boost power and cool the turbos and would only make to moderately rich when in operation. I do not know how long nitro-methane has been used but the nice thing is it don't need a O2 enriched environment to burn so the air to fuel mixture stays the same on or off, burns clean and the liquid to gas process remove a log of heat, and happen quickly. Just some ideas please post pictures of it when you get it operating, maybe a video

What is up with anti car New Years stuff. This is bad, but at least criminal charges can be made. Unlike with Japan where they road block people from going to the shore or mountain tops to catch the first sunrise.

Sounds like a keeper to me. Just keep looking for rust you will find it some spot on these cars all the time. Their is a lot of places things can get in and start the rusting process that are hard to clean out or see the rust start. So the best thing is to always look for it and treat it when you find it. Have one of the shops walk you through the car and show you how it works and what to watch out for with the car. That time will be well spent and will pay 10 fold (if not more) in the future. I hope you drive it I loved my drive in the high deserts of northern Arizona the flat areas leading to the hills. The car just feels like it belongs their, so surprising when you look at what Japan is and how well the car performs it that environment.

For a science type guy I would be fun to find out what equipment was in the car and how it was setup. It could explain a lot about the car's development.

Smooth the body out on the 240z, get the car on a frame pull and have the inner fender straitened, and have the body ready to paint. Get the house and garage painted. Improve lighting in the garage and improve garage attic storage. I hope the garage doors will hold out I wanted to get sliding doors but the companies that make the ones that work for my application are not in the USA, but one is working on having them in the US by late 2014.

The cupcake were the fuel when it was a Flintstone's car. Nike work Gad I don't need that.

Primer grey with a very thin coat of paint on the front and like an over-spray on the back. The paint is so thin I would not be surprised if it was all over-spray from painting the body. When I took mine off the wheel well was factory color but the guard was grey where they overlapped. So they must have painted the wheel wells then painted the body after they were mounted (the fasteners also had paint on them).

Looking at these pictures, I think you could use the 240Z brackets with little modifications.

I never tested nor do I know someone who has on what would be cooler. Also the amount of perforations will be a big factor. Personally I think the weave would be cooler. The other option is to go cloth, it will breath even better. You can get some flame retardant blue denim and have a retro 70's look. Also they make cooling pad that can be mounted in the seats, that might help.

I know your right about that change and never had a chance with a 240Z bumper with brackets to match it up to a 280Z. To see how much difference the brackets would need, you might be able to modify 240Z brackets. Also I think you need to remove the bumper shocks. The funny thing is the 240Z bumper does not even mount to the rails they are bolted to the inner fender.