ajmcforester

You could just mount the bumpers the way they did on the early Z, if you fabricated some new brackets. What they did was put three bends in a piece of ~3/16" that was 2 1/2-3" wide then mounted with two bolts to the inner-fender with nut welded to the inner fender and two smaller nut and bolts to the bumper. That's it nothing fancy.

You can have the belts stretch a little and need more tightening, but that normally happens over months not weeks or days. It is important to use new (recently manufactured) belts and by a good manufacture like Gates Rubber. The rubber needs proper pliability and traction in the grove, a good belt also won't stretch out as much and will have the proper amount of stretch to keep from binding or adding unnecessary strain on the parts. One of the things I notice in a good V-belt is when installed properly the belt takes the flexing when the engine winds up and down and not the bracket. With cheap belts you will see the pulleys and brackets take the load. The belt drive equipment on older cars are not mounted as rigid as modern cars mainly because serpentine belts need to stay in alinement, a little bit off and you will eat the belt. Unlike V belts, that as long it is within 1/4" you're OK (not great but OK). Also make sure the belt is not to tight that also can jam the part making is squeal when it starts. Make sure the assessors move smoothly. The smog pumps will start to give resistance then run smooth after a bit, especially if your getting exhaust gasses or carbon buildup or it needs to be rebuilt.

That is good paint and they have a great line of candies that will do the trick. The neat thing about using candy paint on thin is the direct reflective sun will make it vanish, and the indirect sun areas will show a little and at night they will show up on the car. Candy paint is neat just about everyone has heard of candy apple red and how hard it is to match. Well the reason is the car is painted silver and many layers of candy red is applied to give the color. The more coats the darker the red and less metal color. The lacquer paint it would take ~85-120 coats of candy to get the look. Neat thing to do is take a very bright light on a candy color car and see what the base coat is. Now if you put just a couple coats or thin it down the base will over power the top color in heavy light and the darker it get the more the top color shows.

Is that company that was making new stainless steel bumpers, still doing it?

Are you going to have a clear put on the car? If you are get some candy smoke a that is the same brand as the clear and have the painter dilute the smoke with the clear and spray till it is dark enough. This way you keep the red and have the color for the stripe, and have it as light or as dark as you want the ghost strip to be.

I got tools so I can give her a body makeover; without plastic surgery. Done 6 hours of hammer/dolly work Christmas day, and need about 15 more.

I like to use a wire brush or a brass wheel, then soak it in rust dissolver then use an encapsulater to get any I didn't see. Then prime and paint.

If the picture show most of the rust that is not bad. The car looks like it needs a refreshing of the engine bay and under carage

Ghost stripes are done with clear paint, candies, or spray tricks. Paint ideas that would create that look that I think would look good on the red: clear smoke, flat clear, metallic clear, peril-essence, gold or silver flake, red candy mixed with a little smoke color. Their is a technique I like a lot using a semigloss paint and a high air mix to create a velvet like took to the paint, and it looks cool the glossy-ness stays about the same but the strips have this soft look to them. I was thinking of a cool ghost look, one of the sharper looking paint for accenting the Z lines was on the GT-33s that Bob Sharp Racing produced. I was looking for a good picture of the white and gold one because I thought it would give you the best idea how it would look, but I could not find online with a full body shot with the hood closed anymore. Anyways the lines of the paint made the body pop. Here is picture with hood open: http://forums.ctzcc.com/files/gt_33_132.jpg

You might want to be more specific on which ones. The Datsun optional part one, the later year ones . . .

I was thinking about the raised surfaces on the council, and a trick they used back in the day to paint raised lettering on appliances in the 1800- till about the 40's. What they would do is take a hard rubber roller like you can find in hobby stores or maybe in hardware stores for pressing down things like laminate or paper being glues together or for ink rolling. Anyways on a flat surface you would role the paint out on the roller just like you would for ink stamping, then with a thin layer on the roller, roll it over the surface. The trick to keep it from bleeding down the piece is to have the paint layer thin enough that it drys quickly and the paint thick enough not to instantly run down the part or not too think that is does not dry fast. You want the paint to dry the fastest possible, you can do it again after it drys if it was to thin the first time. By the way from doing this on old antiques do not use heat let the paint dry naturally, other wise the paint moves. On lettering that is recessed. You want to use thin paint and wipe the surface off and again have the paint dry fast. Then doing this the part needs to be flat to hold the paint. I am not as good at that as the raised letters.

They sell a product at hobby stores for gas powered airplanes, the material looks exactly like the material on the door trim down to a plastic like coating. You aply it with a contact adhesive glue, being careful not to crease the material then use a heat gun and a scraper to get the material to get tight and smooth. Then trim the excess material. The small panel behind the door took an hour the first time then the door and other panel was done in 30 minutes, so it don't take long to do.

I've used a little anti seize on the last threads. I try to avoid the threads near the mating surfaces of the joints so it does not mix with the brake fluid.

Cool item, but at that price not worth it, especially since you need to have cams made, valves, machining, maybe even custom bearings made, and a lot more.

OK I have had all these problems Locks Well the good thing about the locks that did not unlock is they are probably in good shape and the others are worn out and need to be rebuild. I recommend pulling all the locks after finding a locksmith with the kit to rebuild your lock. On the side of the lock (except the glove-box) will have a number on the side of the cylinder, a locksmith can enter that number and make a key that matches that number and I bet that key will unlock the locks. I'd still bring all the locks in, they can clean them up and make them just like new for not a lot of money (I thought it was cheap). This also includes the ignition, and when they are done you don't haft to check the floor for the key Dash Lights I found with my first Z was most of the bulbs were louse or bunt out so I just went through and replaced them and check the connections. Also it might not be a bad idea to replace all the fuses after a while they tend to brake down and cause problems. Emissions That's not hard to do just follow the parts hooked to the smog pump, and block the holes on the exhaust and intake manifold. If your getting rid of the emission parts let me know I could use a good smog pump and one of the hoses. Brakes Check the booster they are getting quite old and when they leak things don't work well the rest you can rebuild at home and would recommend doing that, because no brakes is no fun. Door Panel Removal The handle has two screws in the holes to remove and the window crank has a clip you pull and then the parts slide off a spline shaft. Good luck and welcome to the Z car world.

That is a good question. I think we need to look at the build dates for green. There's a statistic that cars sold at a certain time of year are more likely to be around longer, I'll see if I can find out what dates that is again since I pull it from the grey file.

We can say he murdered the other team or he cut them to pieces.

1/70 might have been before they added them. I looked at some series I cars that don't have them and I did not see any indication they ever had one. As you can see with your car the coloring of the shaft is different from the bracket. I'd add the part when you find one it is good insurance,

The rubber bump is on top and rest next to the cross member. If or when you find out what the part does and it is on backwards it will not work. I know I installed it wrong on my first Z and had to switch it around. If you ever put a heavy load on the rack to the point while turning without this part the rack will bind and jam the wheel. It was missing on my 72 and I was doing some drifting maneuver that locked the steering. I did the same move with the bracket I found in a junk yard and no problems (after I turned the bracket around), even when I pushed the car harder than the time it locked up. The bracket seems to keep the parts inside from twisting, if the shafts start to twist inside the rack the parts will jamb against the wall and the teeth can't rotate past each other.

Has anyone tried using it to re-coat the parts that had a plastic like coating, like the hood release? I was going to try that but I'd like to know how long it last, is it worth it? I'm glad to hear it hold up on wire connectors and exterior parts. TomoHawk, you usually get what you pay for with electrical tape, cheap price cheap tape. I have some stuff that once I put it on I have a hard time getting it off. In fact if I do not use the role in about 3 years it become a hockey puck, because I can't peal it off the role. I went to an electrical store and told them I wanted the toughest tape they have and I got it. I can't remember the brand and I might have had several different brands. Just don't get the cheap stuff.

Datsun Z Series 240Z | eBay That looks like a project car, but it would be a good restoration project.

If I remember correctly the stud is tack welded to a strap of sheet metal welded to bumper. With a small grinding tool grind the stud welds and weld on a new stud or just thread a new bolt with a lock and regular washer so it don't move.

The one on the right looks like an aftermarket and designed for more than one engine.

I think you will find that the car is altered more than you think, I could make a list of incorrect parts under the hood, and parts I could not see. Also I saw what looks like rust under the edge of the spoiler these cars for how simple they are sure can hide rust. Also watch that undercoating I'd remove it. Its better to find a small spot to repair then to find out under the undercoating the floor pan is ready to go. That being stated the car looks good and will be a great car fixed up, and welcome to the Z world. What are your plans for the car?

Ethanol is bad I can't find anything good to say about it over gas without it. Get a Ethanol test and find what stations have the least ethanol and water in the gas, and it is simple to use. I did and I drive 6 miles out of my way to avoid ethanol from my home, and I have a gas station on the corner of my street, but they tested as having 5% ethanol. Octane is not gas performance, more of a knock rating the higher the number the quieter the burn. Now higher compression engines do need higher octane, think about the rating as how hard the gas bangs things in the engine and with higher compression means more force. I had a truck that actually burned less gas and pulled better on the lower octane, but it had relatively low compression. If you have an e-31 head you have higher compression, and if your motor has not been hardened for unleaded fuel you need to add a lead substitute to the gas, this will increase octane and the substitute I use won't burn with an open flame. The other problem with older engines is the amount of required cleaners in the fuel they practically polish the intake valves What I do is 91 octane with the recommended amount of lead substitute is about 100 Octane not enough octane for a E31 head z car. So I mixed the substitute with an octane booster so when I fill with the mix I get to 115 octane, so that the octane stays higher than it needed while sitting. I'll use this mix before emissions testing about two tanks. Then the rest of the time the mix also has strait weight oil (it must be strait weight oil in 20-30 weight), about .5 oz per ten gallons of fuel. The oil is a protection for rust from any water (especial if I get stuck using ethanol like traveling more that 1/2 tank away) it also keeps the cleaners from over cleaning the valves and other important parts that the lead substitute protects. Also twice a year I'd add one quart to a 1/4 full gas tank drive it hard enough to slosh everything around and coat the whole tank and fill it up this keeps the tank nice and shinny and rust free. What might start happening when the car is back on the road after restoration is my neighbor does gas testing and could mix me a special batch of gas or a considerate mix to use with pump gas to add, that would be better than what I can get now. I might need to get a small gas tank for the garage to store about 100 gallons of custom gas, and use some smaller bottles for the concentrate mix for road trips.