ajmcforester

I've been planting Ideas for the car on anther blog HaZmatt started and I think the love bug finally bit, I can tell be how the responses have been. Good luck their is an old Joke ab finding a wife that cleans, cooks, loves, and cares for you, and the punch line is may the all never meet. Well it sounds like you messed that one up with the wife just make sure she thinks she if first place over the car (regardless which one you love more because she could sell the car). The Z series are great cars, I tend to like the 240Z more but I always wanted a 77 ZZAP and have tryed to get deals on 77s before. Besides their is a 240Z for sale in Commerce City right now and then you can do a rightup about which one is better. DO you think the wife would by it as a important research project. That might work on me female coworkers, but the are the research type, I just need to get the project pear reviewed.

If I was looking for high compression I would look at the E-31 conversion, because that was the higher compression head and the profiles would work better for higher compression. Flat top pistons are nice for power specially if wanting to use a drop forge piston. Their are some major drawbacks to the flat top like uneven heating across the piston, and inconsistent combustion pressures across the piston needing more structural strength and heat transfer to reduce damage to the piston. If I was going to do a non-stock build: I'd look at using a profiled piston in low compression setting which would push air out better, but has lower combustion properties; or a dished piston that has better combustion properties, and woks better in boosted and/or higher compression. The type of intake, compression, valve overlap and RPM settings would make the difference on the piston for me. If I was to go triple carbs I'd try to get Mikuni carburetors. If I used the 280 heads I would look at a profiled head to push more air through the head, if I used a E-31 head I'd look at a dished piston because the head cylinder profile is better for flow and I can take advantage of better compression. If noise was not an issue, I'd also look at having a large valve overlap and use a flat top piston on a E-31 head. I'd also use these same combos with the Hilborn fuel injection. Another fun idea is a superchager especially since you have a fuel injection system that could be upgraded. I haven't seen one supercharged on the roads since leaving Colorado. Turbos and Superchargers at higher elivation has a greater impact on horse power. The horse power loss to elevation are far less in boosted cars. Normally I've seen a scew type mounted along the right side of the engine, and piped around the front of the engine. Just some more ideas to think about.

The hood has an aliment issue, good sign of bad repairs. I would get it to shop I know and have the front end checked out for twist and what it cost to correct the inner panels

I bought some parts from him and they were not even what was pictured Ihad to send pictures to eBay to get refunded. On my parts search on eBay it reads -reddat. I would not even give him the time of day

Also someone has a 240 motor with an E-31 head for sale on the site. A popular engine build is to mount that head on a 280z block (280Z have a larger block) and boar the head to accept 280z valves. The E-31 head is the better designed heads for performance on the Z cars, The only problem with this setup is the valve will touch the cylinder wall and make a pinging noise that aparently does not cause damage, or a small notch in the cylinder wall needs to be made to prevent the pinging. The advantage is higher flowing exhaust side and a better head shape for gas flow in and out of the cylinder. YOu can use the air intake but would need to change to the 240Z exhaust manifold or headers since the E-31 has square exhaust ports with round intake, instead of your current head with all round ports. If you wanted to go crazy I always wanted to mount Hilborn fuel injection on one of these cars.

Man your so lucky the battery didn't blow up and the whole car didn't burn. Well that is why I wish someone would make a new factory harness for the Z cars it only takes one crack in the wire coating to burn the whole car up. Glad your OK and the car can be repaired.

Here are some things to watch. While the pump is not in you might as test the parts in the ingition system and start making repairs. Let us know how it goes

I posted what I think between the 240 and 280. BY the way a 280 have a lot less value in resale, but if you love the car keep it. The value of the car is what you think of it. Beside I kinda like the patina on this car. Could the rust be controlled? If so why not do a vintage-mod, that's wair you leave the car looking old on the outside and mod the inside. If you do that you stop the rust then clear coat the body. THings I would do it replace the front bumper with a 240Z bumper their is forums explining how to do this on the site and put a BRE spook on the front to give better ground control on the highway (the front of Z cars like to lift at high speeds and the spook counters that and looks cool). I liked those style rims are they one size up from factory or the same. If they are factory size I'd recommed going 1-2" taller rim the tires get cheaper and the choices get better. In the engine I'd look at pictures of European and Japanese models and get rid of some the emissions controls, just be careful enough not to remove so much the car won't pass emissions. Just some Ideas for the car. If you are rebuilding the motor I have some JE dishtop pistons and most of the rebuild parts for a 280Z motor.

So will you be going for performance or ease of driving. ease of driving the 280z coming with fuel injection is a good start. The 280 is heavier and does not have the nicest bumpers. I think the best year was the early 72 240Z the car is still simple and light, the early E-88 head had better flow the latter E-88 and with lower compression than the E-31 so your not looking for higher octane than the pumps supply, they improved the drive-shaft alinement from the prior years. Basically it was the year they got it right.

Looks like a project car I read your second post about if you need a 240 or 280. It depends what you want out of the car and even if you get a 240 their are some differences in the years, so what do you want out of the car?

The floor mat is the rubber ones that you get from the dealer when the car was new with the 240Z. This would be an item the restores would like, I won't use them because I'd like to have them reproduced.

THe fuel pump not working should not affect the ECU. For a new pump Ebay could be a choice, or go online type in the manufacture of the pump and see what you get. I can't remember who made them originally for a 280ZX.

It would be nice if we can see what you have made. I have the dealership rubber floor mats drivers side with very little wear and passenger with none

You would not want that light to have a smooth clear lens it would make the light to harsh. when they are clear from factories they have a diamond pattern on them. I do not know how many people will need dome lights they are a dime a dozen, I have at least 4 good ones in parts I've gotten over the years. Look at the antenna mount rubber that is something that most cars have all dried out on not sealing anymore and the mechanisms that run the antenna are getting mucked up by the corrosion from the water. I wish you would make the upper metal mounting parts also, but you can only make what your setup for. What about the rubber bushings we can't get them all for the car anymore. You mentioned interior, what about making a more acurate seat covers with the correct pattern and with the two different sized piping. Also we can use a more accurate carpets to the originals that new ones are not perfect, and if I had the equipment to sew the edge like the original I could do it better.

"when I took the link out the connector didn't have a third prong. So is it supposed to be that way?" Yes my 84 200SX was wired with the 3rd wire because mine had factory fog-lamps. "And what is the next step?" Fix the know bad connection you found at the fuel pump. Also what is a baluster? IT is a part connected to the coil it is made of ceramic with a coiled wire inside, if the wire is broke it's bad. Some the ceramic and wire are exposed others are in a cad color box. Exact location in the engine bay on 280ZX I can't remember. FYI crossing power like you did can create surges and ruin coils so if you have a spare like I always have around I'd recommend attaching that for now.

If you get to much in it will just come out of the breather, and even when you have it properly filled it still will come out of the breather, just not as much.

Two things if power is going into the coil and not out check the baluster, you may have blown the balister and/or the coil. I know the early 300ZX had a fusible link to the fuel pump I'd check for that first for the fuel problem. At the nearest connector to fuel pump with the ignition on see if you are getting power.

Take your time testing and think of electricity making loops, the ground on the car is just the path back to the car, and take your time and you can find any problems with electrical. THis is simple advice. Are you getting power to cab lights and ignition?

240z Ashtrays/fuse cover might be a good one for 70-71. Some of the plastic knobs and lever parts for some of the years.

It looks like you got a good one, your definitely lucky. The Patrols are so rare that it would be like restoring a 2000GT, you need to fabricate all most al the broken and missing parts. With the FJ40 you can buy almost everything new or used.

The dash is a 4 hour job if you label everything from wire connections to each fastener. The blower is connected to the firewall, and the AC is mounted to that. Like stated be carefull of the parts for the AC or you might be in the wanted section of the classifieds.

Love it I bought a 2007, but I always wanted one of the older ones. I just never found one that wasn't all rusted up, or modified in a way that makes it hard to get it the way I wanted it. A lot of the times the front ends were changed out, the wheel well were overly cutout and/or they were more rust than steel. I like how yours looks very simple and original like, and my favorite tire for my off-roading the BF Goodrich TA KOs

One of the best grills of all time

I was planning to remove the core of the battery and use it for a case for a modern more compact battery that would give the same power and storage that could fit inside the original case. Because of the cover that Nissan had for the top of the battery I was thinking on using that as the top and the acid ports would be large enough that I could put a battery switch and access to a battery tender directly wired to the battery with a wire connection point in the passenger fender well (so the hood would not haft to m=be open to connect the battery).

That is the size, at least that was the size I got last and it came with a plastic riser to make it the correct height. The optima batteries fit well just make sure you get the riser Do you still have the original battery? I had been looking for one to make a case to hold a new battery inside that way I can have the original look with a modern battery in a secondary case to protect the car and battery.