ajmcforester

Has anyone looked into reproducing the decal on the starter?

Blue I wondered the same thing, my original one to the car is good but the base is pitted, the only thing is to get the base off I got to remove the mirror. I might try this on the spare.

FYI Photoshop gives a 2 week trial. What you want to do is convert to a vector and it does it very well.

I agree about the two stage colors. The company that made the paint for my FJ Cruiser gave a close to lacquer look about as close as you get with water base enamal in a two cote process I'll see what the paint shop comes up with and what I come up with and hopefully it will work.

Try PPG, the original paint company works with PPG for their US distribution. If you want the sheen you might need to find lacquer paint. I'm painting #920 Safari Gold and that looks like my best bet for accurate color, now can a get the lacquer like sheen is my question.

I did not paint mine I used some tricks and nearly got all the yellow out without paint or dyes. First Start with some mild vinegar mix and hot water, scrub several times till you don't see improvement. Then Mother's Back to Black it is a cleaner/oxidation remover it won't make the parts gray, several times till you don't see improvement. Then use a heat gun to lightly soften but not distort the panel in a swirling pattern this will bring up fresh material. On the plastic do the same steps except with the heat gun only do areas you can't clean-up with plastic polish. Us the plastic politic and the white plastic it will help it look cleaner. When I got the car this the white int. I thought it had the butterscotch interior. Another option is to have Just Dashes do it they also do vinyl reconditioning.

When I lived out west I used Discount Tire they always had the best deal, and they are in Florida. Price shop a little before you go in they will barter to get your business. What I'd do is come when it's slow and the staff isn't overly busy, try to get the sales manager to help you talk a little about how great your car is and what your plans are with the wheels, look at the options, tell him you were looking at other tire companies, but don't tell him which ones (he knows their price), once you got what you want ask for a price. Next if you like the price ask for a little off you more than likely get it, other wise kind of start to shy off and ask if we could come up with a better price explaining that it is higher than you expect, then he will do some checking ushally and get you a much better price if he can

On the silver vs gold on hose clamps the small size on the vent tank 4/71 build was silver the rest were gold. The remaining original clamps were gold including under the dash.

Yes the roadster was a convertible, but you would not make the statement "lets buy a convertible, the Nissan dealer has them" unless you saw one earlier on the lot.

Ya all control-arm, suspension and carriage fasteners should be checked. I'm betting the original bushings might be your problem rubber bushings don't normally last 40 years. My current Z I'm restoring would fishtail like you described with the original bushings

These can be fast cars if you knew what to do. That looks like it could be a fun car, Nissan is not known for making convertibles.

When was the last time the fasteners in the rear end been check for tightness? You stated the sway-bar bushings need replacement, how are the rest of the bushings including the ones on the top of the strut towers? The sway-bar just keeps the role down in hard turns so this don't sound like the problem. However bushings on the control arms, struts, mustache bar al can cause a swerve.

I was looking to see summit had the foam air cleaners I didn't see them but give them a call they are very helpful. What I did see was a lot of different types of velocity stack air filters some were very nice. One I liked had a rubber that held it on on the outside with a hex stainless steel cover, with a thin mesh metal screen and then a cotton filter material for under $15 with free shipping. By the way how does the side of the engine bay look that can really make a car look cluttered?

For air filtering look at the foam filters that slide over the horns they don't look great but they pull off easily for show. I don't like the JB weld idea I'd keep an eye out for a non-emissions balance tube or actually weld up the original Hear are some dress up ideas Get braided spark plug wire covers the match the wiring harness in the car Fab up a nice fuel line for the car, and move the filter out of the engine bay Use wire hose clamps looks more british and japanese

I'm lucky mine is in good shape. What your looking at is to small the hole is ~2" diamerter rubber rinf is 2.25" OD and 1.75" ID

You know if you dump the old acid and put new acid in the battery will be nearly at full charge. Charging the car just resets the chemical reaction, the harsher the reaction the more desegregation of the metal. If you think you got 3 months till death better get your self a new battery it is one car part I never like to push because as it starts to ware out it puts strain on other parts. I actually test on my cars the cranking amps every 3 months, and in cold moths monthly. I got in the habit of this because I'd pop the top off and check the plates if they were good and the amps went down I'd replace the acid, if worn out I'd replace the plates also.

I'd charge the battery you can even bring it in to an auto part store most will charge a battery. A large discharge like this can be hard on the alternator and regulators and can cause them and the battery to fail or have a shorter life. Charging the battery will help. Also a battery tender for $35 is a good investment they help make things last longer, also if you drain the battery low they will slowly recharge the battery.

Actually I have some that never oxidizes, they had a silver paint on them. They are white. You can't expect something that yellows all the way to be white again. Anyways a cool litle trick you found thanks for sharing.

Blue, When I drove mine from Flagstaff to NJ in Indiana I had to adjust the carbs because the increased vacuum was collapsing the hoses. When I moved hear that was the lowest elevation I has a Z car at. In Arizona the Moagleana (sp?) ridge can really mess with a car, you can be rich on top and lean on the bottom in less than mile.

Little advice about Northern Arizona many of the towns are higher than the area around them, I found it better to run a little rich so I would not lean out in drives.

How that didn't tear-up the walls is quite surprising. please take picture when you get the piston out

Looks great it will be worth the truble once it is all over. What happened to the gas lid?

I thought the same about my first Z after looking at it long enough. How the wheel well is cut it flares out in the back of the the front wells. From a distance you'll note the wheel well matches the tire well across the top. While up close you start to compair from the bottom and it should look forward

My car I noticed the frontend was off from some damage while inspecting it to cover the gap they used masking tape and a paper towle and painted to match the car

So that's how you improve emissions on these cars. Man what will they think of next like pinching the oil-pan gasket to keep the underside from rusting