ajmcforester

Well your going to retune your carbs after this. I'd start by soaking the fasteners in penetrating oil spraying them every day for a week or until the weekend. Meanwhile order the new gaskets. You will want to take the intake manifold off the gasket is one and you don't want to mess with a bad seal so replace the gasket. With the intake off it will make it easier to get the fasteres louse, take your time with them or you will brake a stud or a bolt. If it is cruddy remember the back the threads back and forth, and keep them lubed. Also use some Anti-sees it will help next time you need to take something off.

That's almost a new car

The tank is not venting, it's very clear with post #16. If it was the baffle you would read full at 1/2 to 3/4 full. You are reading 1/2 full when you are at 1/2. Some reason the upper two vent hoses are not venting. Something is not releasing the gasses. On the filler neck is the vent for the vent tank, see if you can blow air into the vent tank, and you might get bubbles in the gas tank if it was venting and you have a large enough pump. Not to say you did this, but I've seen people tighten the straps too much and crush the vent tubes on the top of the tank, or pinched the hoses.

Nice car from what I can see it should make a great track car. I bet all sorts of ideas are running in your head on what you want to do to the car to make it a good track car. just remember to get the rules you are planning to race and build to the rules, if the rules change or you change the racing type you just change the car. I notice the car has a lot of original parts, if you plan not to use these parts let me know I could use them or keep them as spares. This includes fasteners, hose-clamps and other various hardware. I'm also have been looking for a good ashtray, andbrake booster hoses

You can't expect to change one thing like the header and not impact something else. Not to mention you had to move the intake to put the headers on and you can't expect it all went exactly like it came off. You need to fully tune the carbs.

When was the last time the tank was cleaned out, and boiled for rust? I'm wondering if rust and/or sediment is blocking 1/2 the tank at the baffle. does the gas level at the fill tube go down when it sits?

Lets say the front is messed up to the point that it is not worth straitening. You still might not want to rule the car out. If you are building a track car you are more than likely going to put in a role cage and make some upgrades for safety and performance. Depending on how you plan to use it and what the rules you might be governed in any racing you might end up doing. First thing might be using another car for a front end. Another is to tube frame the front end, giving you more strength.

It sounds like a potential candidate. You will need a strait frame the structure is the key to a good race car. Get it checked.

I'd also add to JLP's suggestion new hoses. especially since you can get them with the braided wrap on the outside right now. The end are starting to curl and the rubber looks like it is dried out. The heater box looks like it may also need a coat of paint also.

It's a lot more not to just convert to round-tops. Mikunis were used in a lot of cars the parts might get more expensive over time, I just don't see people letting them die out. I'd give Wolfcreek a call he does rebuild them.

Jerry on the spot. Start with lining the doors to the body then the fenders to the door then the headlight buckets, then the hood the the fenders to the hood.

If your going to change the intake, and cam, and you getting machine work for new seat and guides why not look at going to a larger valve out of the 280Z. Are you going to change the piston? Have you thought about using a L28 with the E88 head, the blocks are easy to find and cheap? Their harder to get but a set of Mikuni, or Solex carbs make a great setup. What type of power are you looking for?

Take your time. If the screws come out easy it looks like you can take the heater-core out with removing the box I have not tried this, because it needed paint so I've always taken the whole unit out. If you remove the blower you can access the side that pulls off. You might want to remove the glove box it gives a lot more room. I'd recommend removing the whole unit and giving it a coat of paint if you see bare metal it will rust quickly. If you need to remove the whole unit be prepared to pull up the dash.

I was thinking about the screen protectors you cab get at best buy

How many hour of work was put into the swap?

That is a good one it sounds like a topical drug or something. It's funny how I make mistakes like that and I just don't see them. I write a lot of technical document, most of the ones for my department, and we get a kick out of some of my mistakes when we proof read my stuff. Well that is why I have a person at work that specializes in proof reading, because my supervisor is as bad as I am.

I'd start with a known leak antifreeze is great at rusting things, it eats paint . . . Smells on the outside of the car and you see no sines of leaks look look at the radiator see if you see any discoloration that would be a hint of a leak. Also do you get moisture in the exhaust, or a white smoke? Signs of coolant Is the overflow be dumping more than you expect? this could be caused by excess pressure, air-lock, blockage, or bad radiator cap Is the radiator cap working at the right pressure? Is the car engine getting hotter than normal?

Salvage yard and they are very picky no cameras

I'd check the heater core. I wouldn't take it out but right after you run it open the floor panels and with a flash light see if you see anything shiny. Also take a rag and see if you have gunk on the bottom of the box. The heater core contol valve should be checked they over time might let little amounts of coolant when moved, while the car is running play with and see if you can get some coolant. When you flushed the car maybe you got some coolant under the cowl, your heater air intake is their. Try flushing some water in the cowl, be careful the drains have a rubber hose that gos inside the cab make sure they are not leaking otherwise you will have a wet interior. This might be a good excuse to take the cowl off and clean it out, check for rust, lube the joints on the wiper system, and if your really ambitions check on the wiper-motor, and give a good coat of a protestant.

You could get a patch, their is a salvage yard in Erie (not the one on I-25) that only does Japanese cars they might be able to help. If you get luck enough to go in the yard and you know your Japanese cars you are in for a treat. They have 6 Toyota 2000GT, 9 mid 70's Cosmo's, 2-3 mid 60's Honda's, and more. Atleast they did 6-7 year a go.

I'd check the heater core. I wouldn't take it out but right after you run it open the floor panels and with a flash light see if you see anything shiny. Also take a rag and see if you have gunk on the bottom of the box. The heater core contol valve should be checked they over time might let little amounts of coolant when moved, while the car is running play with and see if you can get some coolant. When you flushed the car maybe you got some coolant under the cowl, your heater air intake is their. Try flushing some water in the cowl, be careful the drains have a rubber hose that gos inside the cab make sure they are not leaking otherwise you will have a wet interior. This might be a good excuse to take the cowl off and clean it out, check for rust, lube the joints on the wiper system, and if your really ambitions check on the wiper-motor, and give a good coat of a protestant.

I agree but I think there's enough out their that the price won't be over $200 for a while for a set of good drums. $150 might be a little on the high side right now but in two years that might be a good deal.

Not Cool, but interesting. That's a good reminder for the rest of us to check the torque on the fasteners. I'm glad that is all it did you have a nice car and would have hated to see it damaged because a 50 cent nut and 20 cent lock washer went

Dam, I contacted them this weekend nope we have no Datsuns or 240z, 260z, or 280z. Thanks for the help, It looks like faster striping time did you need some parts? Decoy12 Yes I can use 95% of what you have their. The other 5% I'll keep on hand. I'll PM you later

That would be great it would be nice to find a car that I can pull sometimes you find parts you want to hold. These will match any 240z All bolts for timing cover, and water-pump, all the fasteners to mount the alternator Screws for grill, wiper arm mounts (under the cowl), all the screws that hold all the parts connected to the left wheel well inside the engine compartment ( the scews that hold the light, fuel filter . . .), rear brake light screws, filler neck screws, the ones that connect the headlight support to the inner fender. Hose clamps looking for the original wire type for the heater hose, bunch of the small fuel hose clamps, the ones that connect to the intake manifold, the fuel inlet hose, all the tank clamps. On any of the fasteners and hose clamps that are original if your stripping a car down I could take, having extras would be nice. Like the round headed screws the current factory replacement numbers are bolts not screws I learned this the hard way. Besides I have the stuff to plate. If you find these parts 70/71 ashtray, good smog pump, black sunvisors