ajmcforester

Looking good I always liked that blue

I think I'll order one with a large order and see how it looks from nissan. I have a list of 50-60 fasteners to order anyways

That's what Texan's like to do and I don't want to see another law, but man you fell like a jack A$$ to make a supporting comment after his argument. Be side it would be a pain to enforce the law did you see that machine they used that is a grand or more.

The thing I don't like about this part not matching is it guides the hood into position, and keeps it from raddling. With the original it touches at the bottom and on the side at the top the new one can only touch the bottom of the hood since it is short. My first Z had the new ones and you would see vibrations on the hood that I didn't see with this car. I hope these are aftermarkets and maybe Nissan sells the correct ones. This is another product that Z Car Source sold me and told me it was like original when it is not.

I got some new rubber bumper for my car and I notice they don't match the originals in height. I got them from Z Car Source, I don't know if they are factory (nissan) part or some aftermarket. Can you find correct ones, who has them? The orange painted one is the orriginal

At intersections I found their are things that can be done, I'll slightly angle the car to the right, not enough to cause a swerve just enough to minimize impacts to the mirrors. In my FJ (yes I own one of the vehicles) I'll angel a little off not to directly hit the persons mirrors in the car in-front of me. When following some one my FJ has three headlight settings that are legal I'll go to the dim setting over standard and High beams. I was watching the video from a prior post. I was doing some research on upgrading my Z with the higher admitting lihgs, but in my case I'll get the proper headlight reflector unit. I don't know if I'll do it I am planning to use an original alternator and the pull might just be to great.

I think the best bet would be Gibbs for the surface and a little grease on the rubbing parts and call what happens a patina and just love the car.

That is the original idea of the white line. By the way you need to learn to deal with it the knob on the bottom of your review mirror is to help you see with out blinding you

I'd start a new forum in our introduction site, and add pictures of what you get this will help

The power source must be good all the way. On my first car I worked really hard to improve ignition on the car, I started with 90% ignition and went to 98% (was a 84 200sx Nissan did a lot to improve ignition by this time). Most people don't think about how current will weaken over time, that is why I wish I can get original style battery terminals to make new ones. Great job

Bummer

I hope you don't mind that is normal when you let a car sit and use that stuff. Could you post pictures of the battery, I've wanted to see an original battery for these cars? If the core is still good you could replace the acid. If not their are battery rebuild shops for classic cars and you can have the battery rebuilt.

Not really it is actually one of the better factory setups. The only problem I've seen on Z cars is the exhaust down pipe drooping a little. Heat cycle will do that over time. This would be the biggest benefit when looking at longevity and heat reduction, the out side is more looks.

Wait till you have a fully charged battery and try again. Some thing, feel the wires, and check the wire conections at the battery and starter. Try is again. If nothing take a test and test the wires make sure your getting power to the starter. Obviously if your not getting a power reading fix it. Next you should take it out of the car. I'd take the cylanoide sp? apart and make sure it didn't jam. Sorry back step hear in the USA most auto parts stores will check the starter out of the car for free make a call while the battery charges. Lets make sure it's the starter. If it is bad you can rebuild it if you can get the parts I like doing this and I contact a starter and alternator rebuild shops to get the parts (they charge me about 3X what they paid, but try to find the parts on your own, it's well worth it). The thing I like is I tend to put more time into checking everything when I do it, so that spot that needed a little polishing or I use a better oil on this and thats . . .

My Ace hardware has crush washers and we were able to match it up.

If you look after market ARP makes a great bolt PM me this evening after work I can take a look in my bins I think I have 4 sets

I'm considering it, pushing heat out of the engine compartment helps the longevity of the car

Are you getting a clicking noise? Or just nothing at all. If a clicking noise explain it.

It's a cool thing you want to do, but what budget are you looking at, how close do you want to be to your dad's original car. What did your dad have all this will help.

Are you looking for a project car, one to modify, restored, or a untouched original? Tell us about your self and what you want

The marvel Mystery oil will clean but the oils today have great cleaners in them. I'd just chage the oil early like at 1,500-2,000 miles. If you do what he suggested get a second filter, a lot will collect in the filter. I do like some oil additives on the market for my Z. Every oil change I add ZDDP which is a chemical they removed from oil by the EPA pressures to make oil cleaner to recycle. ZDDP it to help protect flat tappet cams which the Z has. Now my 07 FJ Cruiser also has flat tappets, but don't require ZDDP so I don't know what Toyota did, or if modern oil just don't need it to protect flat tappets, but I'm not going to risk it with the Z to find out. I use Lucas every-other oil change after I relash the valves I want to get something oily that sticks to the cam since you wipe a lot of oil off lashing the valves, an it seems to coat the parts well. The last product I like and use on rare occasions is B&G MOA, this stiff cleans out an oil system really well. Every time I've used this on a old car it take about 2-3 minutes before the oil comes out the drain plug, that is how much gunk it can get. I like to use it about every 4-5 oil change (don't worry it isn't like sludge at that interval) Another neat thing about MOA is a chemical that makes the oil green when the oil starts to break down it turns red this is really nice for racing or cars with turbos to help keep an eye on the oil quality

Wow I think your work is improving. It looks great

Being out of that time I think I pushed my bands to much, they all would be happy with a half arse show and I made sure we played at or better than any of those bands on stage. We would have done well if we stayed together but the strain to keep at that level, well most people don't have that commitment. Living outside of Philly I have been trying to learn more about what they had at that time. What I need to do is spend sometime in the vintage vinyl shops in Philly and learn it that way. LA and New York was the big seen, but I've hear some about Philly, Boston, and Chicago's seen and this is a great chance to learn more

Well I lived in Colorado not NJ and yes I did those bands. We also did DOE, Agent Orange, Sex Pistols, Made in Japan, The Vibrators, The Avengers, The Clash (NO Rock the Casba!!), and about 7-8 other bands, and some of my stuff. You might want to check out this station in the UK www.punkfm.co.uk all they pay is punk from 76-79

Well I had two ska bands, heavy metal big-band and 2 vintage 70's style punk bands in high school. To bad I couldn't keep them together I had places that would give me gigs on 1-3,000 person nights on my rep with a band that haven't had a gig. I also played the French horn. In the vintage punk bands people went nuts when we did stuff from The Bags (both bands) and Runaways (with the band with female singer).