ajmcforester

I used to work on my car while several skate boarders would skate next to the shop in the mid 90's and we would play punk rock from your time. Last week I ordered The Vibrators 1st album on CD for $3 recorded in 77. I had the original album from The Avengers that I wanted to replace I wore out the record, well that was to expensive the cheapest I found was a scratched record for $30 and the CD went for $125. Apparently their was a contract infringement with the recording studio and the producer so it hasn't been recorded since 85 making it one of the hardest punk recording to get in history. I found out it will be re-released next year.

What are you looking for in this Z

So you have $10 per member. I like the show with food and/or t-shirts for the member.

Host a show and put the money into supplies you might need . then anything left over use to buy specialty tools

Now it was a 240z. I drove it in 110+ in southern Arizona in stop and go traffic with the factory 2 core radiator, not the 3 core like yours should have with no problems. The factory system will keep it cool enough in good working order. One thing you might want to check and see is if you have the splash pan they help with air flow and cooling. If you still have problems look at getting a fan shroud. The only car I ever drove that my dad or owned was my dad's 84 Corvette which would over heat new in heavy traffic.

Cool that will be a fun car. On the over heating flush out the system real good. Don't forget the plug on the engine clean it out till nothing but clear water will come out. You might want to get the radiator boiled out. Also check the water pump make sure is moves well.

That will be great, by chance one of them be the 70-71 ashtray?

Hear is the pictures of my Supersprint exhaust. <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15770711@N05/5459829784/" title="100_1468 by ajmcforester, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5179/5459829784_1cd7236c80.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="100_1468" /></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15770711@N05/5459787694/" title="100_1450 by ajmcforester, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5176/5459787694_5bcceaa167.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="100_1450" /></a> Specs. Front resinator is ID 1.75”, body 3” diameter X 12” body with 1” each side taper for total leignth of 14” The bends on the pipe are in the same place as factory, except the two right angle bends are a little greater to allow for the longer rear section witch make the exhaust kick a little forward behind the rear wheel. <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15770711@N05/5459208373/" title="100_1458 by ajmcforester, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5298/5459208373_e218c8f950.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="100_1458" /></a> Rear section is 1.75” ID splitting into 2 1.25” ID resonators Resonators are 3” diameter X 13” long body only showing 12” (tips cover about 1”) and are welded to each other in three spots on left and right side. The chrome 2.5” diameter X 7” long decorative tips, with the tail pipe painted Ferrari red running the same length of the tips. <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15770711@N05/5459213793/" title="100_1461 by ajmcforester, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5214/5459213793_d4e1320159.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="100_1461" /></a> The rear section is in total 26” long. The inside of the resonators have the same type of perforated surfaces on the inside pipe, with different diameters matching the diameter of the intake. The perforation is round 1/8” holes every 3/8” apart (looks like the holes were stamped out or drilled). The perforated pipe on the front resonator does not go the whole length of the body and is welded to two rings, unlike the rear. <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15770711@N05/5459219705/" title="100_1467 by ajmcforester, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5258/5459219705_ffcaaff4b9.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="100_1467" /></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15770711@N05/5459217719/" title="100_1465 by ajmcforester, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5251/5459217719_d94489373f.jpg" width="500" height="375" alt="100_1465" /></a> Things to note is that the two sections have some things that hint to me that their may or may not be two different construction types and different years of construction. The front half has hints of being older than the rear. The Marmitte and Supersprint decal on the front resonator, I found on a picture of a late 60’s car, and that it has an earlier style construction with the welded ends. The rear two resonators have decals I found in pictures of for a Pantera exhaust system and have rounded bodies. The decals hint more of this to me than the construction, because they might have made them this way, the resonators do have different inside diameters. <a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15770711@N05/5459806052/" title="100_1456 by ajmcforester, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5100/5459806052_363a6d75e4.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="100_1456" /></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15770711@N05/5459195955/" title="100_1455 by ajmcforester, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5052/5459195955_6177b8a5ef.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="100_1455" /></a><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/15770711@N05/5459798996/" title="100_1454 by ajmcforester, on Flickr"><img src="http://farm6.static.flickr.com/5133/5459798996_a2db1430bb.jpg" width="375" height="500" alt="100_1454" /></a>

Just buy it you know you want to. I love his parts they are of top quality. However the last two I haven't needed (including this one) but glad to know I can get them.

Try the back to black first it removed the nasty rubber also

Try the back to black. if not rubber dye

I saw your post. I'm glad that worked

I'd just make sure you get most of your money before sending the car. You can't blame a guy if he wants to hold 10-20% to make sure you follow your end. He is putting a greater risk in this sale than you are. You are also working with a very stable country it's not like it some backwater African County with very little control and law.

Don't get haynes it is very general pay for the Factory manual it will help greatly

Don't get the Haynes it is not worth it you will just end up getting the FSM. Just order a factory manual you can get them on CD pretty cheap

Ya I know my self with a rattle-can and I do better with a gun however I don't have access to a large compressor anymore. Starting on page 174 of the How to Resore Your Datsun Z-car you will find a mix code for paint not around anymore. I'd bring this in to the paint shop when getting it repainted, they can mix to match. By the way Mike B your lady's rear-end looks good

OK the classifieds have their own site this happened less than a year a go. You can access this site from the drop downs but to save time use this link http://www.datsunclassifieds.com/index.php From hear log in your password and user name is the same as this sight. Next click on place ad then fallow the three steps. If you plan to post pictures just put one in and go back and edit the ad to put more in otherwise you have problems

Nice ZG, to bad it doesn't have the headlight covers and chrome bumper that would make it really sharp In 72 they had a version in Japan the 240ZG. It had a different rear, 5 speed and their was several engine options. This car look to have replica parts on a standard 240z

Sorry I should have been more specific about the fuel,, when you pulled the filter gas will return to the tank just like when you put your finder on the end of a straw you can pick up the liquid, then when you release your finger the liquid will drop same idea. Have tried starting it again?

You guys need to make friends with a paint shop. You will get better results than a spray can. If you prep the part the way they like you will be able to do it on the cheap. I always bring removable parts in (don't bring the car that adds cost). Last time I did this for my Z was a grill they charged $40 cash. I had no runs, and a great original (slightly better) like finish. The wheel covers will take a bit more to prep, but you would need to do all that work if you did it.

I don't know how much you would get for it, but I bet more than $20 if someone is look for the kit, provided it is in good shape. I know I'd want it if I had those carbs. By the way that car looks like the last one I took parts from for my car. That looks like a slightly rusty east-coast car;)

You might have drained the fuel back when you changed the filter. Did you gap the plugs? As for the old plugs they don't look that bad you might be a little rich on the front carb 56 look about right and 4 looks a little cleaner 1-3

I agree, I think someone will not be happy with the purchase when they get a good look at it. The repairs could have been done better on the car. Normally pictures hide most things, and we found a lot of things. Now if the car was close to me I would have taken a look, and paid to have the car's body checked out. I saw a lot of great parts, it the car was to twisted to restore more than likely what he was asking I could part it out for my project. I think the car might be twisted enough not to restore to original but to make a custom car, that way it would look good with the sub-framing being reinforced in case of structural cracking, and use the parts to help restore my current Z.

Dry ice will help breakup the sound dampener. I wish you luck with the project

You are correct except what your talking about wasn't vinyl but sound dampener. It's a tar like plastic. They never painted under that of course for as long as they wanted the car to last it wasn't going to allow rust to rust it out, but give it time allowing it to harden and crack let water in and their you have it a rusted out car. How bad is it you might want to look for a shell?