ajmcforester

I've seen this on the road I went to look at one Z when I got their I notice the car was sagging well it was buckling from the rusting out and the guy was driving it. He got out of the car and you can hear the rust grind against its self:paranoid: It is a shame many of these cars could have been saved if someone cared to take time to repair the rust when noticed, but its only minor rust they say. The other is its not running right throw it in the back we'll fix it or sell it later, then they want the price of what the car was worth running, and in the condition when they stuck it in the back 40.

Be glad it's not a 87 Ford Ranger E10 messed with the computers and I would go from 27 to 23 mpg (15%) on E10. It would also take 2 fill ups before my gas mileage was back to 27 mpg. The E10 also would damage the fuel injectors on this year (I can't remember what other years). This was when I drove it everyday, when it was driven one or twice a week E10 dropped to less than 20mpg. Their was some research done that show some minor increase in rubber deterioration with E85, now I can't remember what periodical it was in so don't ask (this is the only one I found about increased damage to standard parts, I found several about damage to the engine, but they were very shoddy studies running straight ethanol). In the study they simulated gas cooling and heating like what a car would experience allowing moisture to collect inside the tanks. One of the things mentioned was they don't know how much of the deterioration increase was from the water or from the E85, or the higher rate of decomposition of the fuel. Note these are things cars experiance from sitting. Were a lot of people are confused about needing to change things over from methanol, that stuff was bad it would eat holes in plastic fuel tanks, hoses, . . . everything would need to be converted. I don't see why you need to do something make sure you have good fuel lines, use fuel stabilizers if it sits for more than a week. That said I'd complain about it I don't like how it burns in my cars, my cars are not driven everyday so I only get gas once or twice a month. In my current vehicles a 240z and a FJ Cruiser I've documented a greater decrease in MPG especially in the FJ (I don't always add fuel stabilizer to FJ unlike the Z) the longer between fill-ups. I don't mind it to much if I drive a lot but when they sit the E10 causes problems.

It's not that bad the secrete it a good wax job every 90 days and change you cleaning rags constantly in case you pick something up in the rag. Things a good Z car guy should do anyways.

Yes that is why I stated a nice cover no cheap ones. MSA is quick on getting parts out when you need them. I had a bit of falling out with them a few years back when they went through a staff change, and don't rely on them as much

What is a little rain? I worked over night once with no heater on my car to find out the next day it was below -10 that night. The location I was using at that time, not any more, the choice was light or heat, and I didn't want to work in the dark. Beside rain just means you get wet, I bet when you were a kid that would not stop you from playing No it is good to hear you want to work on the car otherwise why have it these cars can be simple but they need some work from time to time. Just wait you will be putting parts and tools on the Christmas list and nothing else till someone forces you to. A good car-cover is worth it, don't go cheap when you get one get a nice fitted one.

Great, I hope you tapped the surface rust areas to make sure they were surface rust. Other than that congratulations!! Picture are needed. have you found transportation for it yet?

Matt you could take it down to the auto parts store and try to match the motor. Don't worry about conectors if you have the original, just splice the old wires to the new pump.

If your looking for something ask you be surprised what people hear can find. That was slick when he posted that.

Smart move they are almost always abused when sporty cars come back within its first 5 years.

http://www.carpartsmanual.com/datsuns30/DatsunFairladyZIndex/tabid/1543/Default.aspx someone posted this sight recently.

I have several versions of Haynes, Chiltons, and several others, don't ask how I got some of them even I don't know. Trust me get the factory manual you won't be sorry. It will be one of the best purchases you can make for this car. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/DATSUN-240Z-WORKSHOP-REPAIR-SERVICE-MANUAL-CD-/130464738476?pt=Motors_Manuals_Literature&hash=item1e604decac http://www.zcarcreations.com/cdman/cdman.htm

Just 6-7cc of oil will do in each piston. SO it did fire that is good to know if you didn't mess anything up you have spark Now we can go to fuel supply. First I bet you have resin build-up in the float chamber and fuel pump, very common for sitting cars. By the way pick up several new fuel filters you will be surprised how much junk builds up in a two year sitting car. I'm betting you have the original mechanical fuel pump, get a bucket and run the engine and see if your getting gas from the pump. Yes then proceed to the float chambers (be careful on the screws I don't think you can get original style ones anymore). This is a carb part so don't fell bad to tell me you don't know what something is, I would greatly appreciate that so we don't waist time. Their are 4 screws on top of the float remove and gently lift, their are thin parts that deal with adjustment and a glass bearing in the valve. clean the valve. on the side were the hose connects take that a part their is a screen inside clean it. if the float gets in the way carefully remove the pin that it rotates on you don't want to drop the float. put it back together and add alittle fuel to the float. Then see if she starts. If she starts don't run it for long or drive it yet you can do some damage. You will need to re-lash the valves (if the valve lashing is way off you can do damage to the valves and the cam). and clean up the carb dashpots. Lets do the ego boost and get her to start first I'd also recommend getting a copy of the factory service manual, you can find copies on CD and in paper.

Their nice, but they have a hard time competing with Colorado's. Yours aren't as long.

Oil has cleaners that won't last 2 years in a engine when they break down the make the oil bad, also put some oil in the pistons it will damage the cylinder walls The car normally hold some oil from its last run on the rings this is enough to prevent damage till the engine starts and pumps oil back up, the problem is when it has not ran in a while the oil has now all ran off. It is good he left a full tank of gas it helps prevent it from making a resin in the system it migh not be good to run however. Just use a gas can, stick a hose off the pump in side the can. Have you sprayed either into the carb and try to start it yet? I've checked spark by pulling the wire and putting it on the valve cover with the boot pulled back. If you had points you could pull the point back and see if you had spark. You do need better pugs than Autolights, this car will burn them out but it won't stop the car from turning over. If you got spark the next thing would be fuel.

K&N filters are cotton that you soak with oil, I'd get the cleaning kit and re-oil. The carbs need to be clean, they should not be dirty otherwise you will suck that into the engine. Start slow getting it to run! Start be replacing plugs and points & condenser in the distributor. While replacing the plugs put a little oil in on top of the piston to oil the top rings (more than likely their is no oil on the pistons). Change the oil, no reason moving water and junk through the engine were it don't belong. Then you can turn the engine, don't start it if you can resist. Next lash the valves, this will be something you should do every year any ways and the engine needs to turn to do this. Drain the fuel and blow out the fuel lines. If you don't want to drain the tank at least use fresh gas into the pump the old stuff can damage the engine and rust will damage the pump and plug the filter. Next check if you have spark, and that you are getting fuel to the carbs. You can prime the bowls or spray some either to see if she will start at this point. I gave a very easy over view their is more you may want or need to do. Just remember engines don't like to sit that long anything that needs oil, oil it first before starting. I would not play with the carbs till she turns over. More than likely they will need to be cleaned and tuned, but the car should fire even out of tune. With the carbs you will want to find a Z specialist or a british car specialist to go over tuning SU carbs

I would have put money Ron would beat you to the punch. When his finger twitched that was the end

You will find this on Classic Zcar Club site all the time that is why I post things hear first including parts I plan to sell.

Ya and I work government, so I get spat on weapons pulled the whole 9 yards of bad. I also get the old lady who likes what I did and the people who will help out in a moments notice, even had a mayor who knew me give me a ride to and from the auto parts store so I could replace a broken u joint. When I worked private I got private box seats, concert tickets and all sorts of expensive goodies for saving their trees, and protecting their homes, even for being expert witness in court cases or statement to insurance companies, just not one of my dream cars.

Go new let the nicks and scratches be yours not someones you bought. I don't trust anyone who get rid of a car that quick, was everything maintained well over the ownership, I bet if they got rid of it that quick not to my standards. Also it is end of year time so you can work it to get the price down. If you want some of the options that are not on the car use that after they stop going down in price, you might get them to throw some of them on after the fact your they might budge. I did that with my FJ Cruiser, got the fully loaded model (after they ordered everything) under dealership cost, and in the color and transmission setup I wanted (manual). I purchased at $25,000 what MSRP $39,500 over 35% off in 2007 when these were selling 6 months before for $5,000 over MSRP on average

Yep you got a good one it is an early one when I saw the duel levers on the council I new it was a low number. When looking for rust check under the carpets around the drain holes and the back deck lid, rocker-panel and under the battery if they are not rust good bet you won't find much. By the way pm me some lotto number because you must be lucky to get one like this for free. I spent 2 years and 10 flights and found something close with a little body work needed. And you got some work ahead to bring her back to great condition, but if no rust this car will be worth it. If you don't think so PM me

kats I wished to find one do you know one for sale??? pm

If you need a new washer bottle, let me know. One of today's project was putting in brighter light for the garage since the door can't be open without a cold draft.

I got all new rubber for windows OEM, Nissan from Bonsai Motorworks http://www.zzxdatsun.com/

Now you have a start price write down everything you find wrong that was after the fact of the negotiated price. A bunch of small things adds up to $$$, and if you go over each one at a time they will write it off and not budge but if you have a list it is harder to write off because you gave them all at once. I don't know how much room you will have, but I found a car that might make a good parts car. I'll make a post when I have more about that car.

Na you just become refined, not patina