ajmcforester

Wow that is a great start with the engine check list. My Toyota FJ on line has this type of list for every service interval, they are a great help. Some things to add I found: The vacuum advance plate in the distributor needs to be cleaned every other year. The groves worn into the plate seems to collect junk that makes it stick over time. Oil all the linkages, grease the fittings, check alternator power (especially if your running an original), adjust belt tension, replace thermostat every other year, adjust the clutch throwout rod yearly, check drive-line shaft torques yearly, clean out worn brake and clutch fluid, ever other year check voltage regulator, check battery fluid I know their is more I check this is what I didn't see on the list from the top of my hear

It looks like the dash frame was bent or twisted a little I wonder if the passenger side was made taller also. If something flattened the frame end it could look like this if they didn't shape it back properly. Was the package ever damaged from you to them or visa versa?? On a lighter note has anyone used Just Dashes and would give a review, I know they started off as Z Dashes (I talked to the owner on the phone). I never seen their work on Z cars, I know they make very accurate reproductions for other cars. Also maybe some of you with good experiences can take some detailed pictures so the rest can see the work these companies do

OK if you think it is fuel start with the basics. When did you replace the fuel filter and how is it, maybe try a new one. Does the gas smell right, and when was the last tank put in Check to see if you have proper fuel pressure, pumps go bad sitting. Are the inside of the fuel lines clean To save you from taking the bowls apart their is a bolt on the bottom you can hook a to. This can be used to measure the float level to see if they are correct. Also what kind of cars does your mechanic specialized in? I will let you know every Z car a bought the carbs were tuned by a trusted mechanic of the last owner and they were not in tune at all. The last one the last owner was shocked how fast the car was when I roughed tuned it before driving off.

If it is like the 240Z on the slave cylinder rod you can adjust the nut to adjust the clutch. If you get under their, provided the same setup, you will see it is pretty easy to do.

OK I found this JE Piston set a while back when a Z garage was be thrown out (quite literally). I contacted JE Pistons and with the job number got the specifications on the pistons in the set (see attachment). I asked about the other parts in the kit they told be that someone else put that together. When I got the fax I found they were made for EVO CYCLE ENGINEERING in Lake Forest CA. I called the number on the fax for them and got someone very confused on the other side of the phone (my Spanish is not very good and he didn't know what a 240Z was or Datsun). I then did a internet search for the company, all I could find about them was remnants of websites that people made in the 90's on who to contact for performance parts. From the build sheet I found out it was for a L28 motor and what the specs are. Does anyone else know any more about this kit? I might sell/trade it or keep it to build an engine at a later date (since I don't have the L28), either way I need to figure out what I got. Sorry for the quality of the the build sheet I couldn't get the PDF to upload as an attachment

Their is no performance advantage to side post if you like them and they meet your needs keep them. Optima batteries and several other brands have top and side mounts that way you can switch if you want later down the road

ZZZAP Z (I think I got the right amount of Zs) was the first factory based special edition Z car. They even was an arcade game made for it. Type in Zap it the search for the forums on this site you will find a good amount of info. When I first was looking for a z I was looking for one of them or a 240z, I got the 240z

I think you are going to need to cut two holes in the door. What I'd do is make a frame to hold the plastic of choice out of L bracket material. On the front and rear bring the L bracket material down enough to weld to some square stock to mount inside the door to a solid point you will only need two bolt mounts place for front and two rear. The other thing to consider is making a bracket in the front so the bars slide in perpendicular to make it easier to take out. If you wanted to get more industrious, how about making to receiving brackets mounted in the door that you slide the stems into to hold the window and use pins to hold them in, making it really easy to take in and out.

Can you post a picture of the door even without the new mods I have some ideas but I need to know what you have first? I'm thinking a frame you mount the Plexiglas to, and make the frame and the Plexiglas one piece. I used Plexiglas in my first car 84 200sx it took a little to make the side windows work. Plexiglas needs support around the sides otherwise it will crack, you also want to make it easy to get out to replace it. It might cost more, but how about using polycarbonate, you still will need some support but it is a lot stronger?

use a automotive eraser they can damage lacquer paint. What they are used for is removing decals and striping in body shops. They do the job quikly

How about using the tracks for the windows and have it slide up and down. To save weight the drag racers used a strap to pull the window up and down, it also clip to the door to hold it up.

What detail are you looking for 100% stock, just not grimy looking, shiny . . . ?

Thanks Kats I found a supplier in Canada, I also found the blue film the stuff works great on protecting the car while working on it.

I think you might need to take the head off and take a peak on what is going on. A frozen ring can cause a lot of damage so I'd look into that soon.

I think you would be OK for now , but I would keep close tabs since you a little on the low end.

I've done that twice, just not to a Z car. The times it happened to me the key-way was not seated properly, the other when the equipment jammed and damaged the key. My be is the Key just wore out and bent, cracked, or something along that line. That was defiantly gremlins working again

Try replacing the worn out rubber to get rid of the exhaust fumes, and fix any leaks. Of course the blue pine tree on the mirror might work.

I thought this guide from my plastic welder's book would help exspecialy if I don't do the testing at least someone else can.

I've used Gibbs and Boesheild T-9. The boesheild is only good for hidden areas since it is yellowish, but gibbs is clear it also keeps the cast aluminum looking new

The only thing I know better is to start with no rusted seams. The best advice it scrape clean and encapsulate. I know Eastwood Company has a so called safe metal rust removing liquid, you could give that a try, I've never used it. Remember POR15 bonds well to rust you just don't want it to be thick rusted areas. PS get some tyvec suits your going to need it with POR15, it don't come off the skin well.

If you know the plastic type that would help, their are a lot of glues out their that will work. What you want is a glue for that specific plastic. This is a busy time of year for me but I'll try to get some time to test to find out what type of plastic it is. My bet is ABS since most of the car is made it. If it tests as ABS plastic you have a lot of options to repair the piece including plastic welding. Yes I've welded plastic it works, it also allowed me to put mesh support into corners and places know to crack on panels. What might work best is a ABS powder and catalyst. I'll go into more detail when I know what plastic it is. Also check with the company plating their could be problems with some glues

With the UV clear they should last more than 30 years now. With the same use

They did a great job it looks great. Is it a little thinner than the original?