ajmcforester

Stay away from the big box hackery you can do well at times but they just don't have the fasteners you should use.

Bruce what is the difference in Canada than the USA on parts is it a problem with Nissan USA or with trade? I've found that it is usually the other way with Canada that it is easier to get things in the US. With the exception of chemical related things like platting and radiator restoration.

Zed finding out of Canada seems to have a lot of stuff like that

Reference from post #17 above picture didn't copy to quote Kats website shows you the difference between the new ones and the old wire support their is a difference. I could not find the picture today but this is a great site I learn a lot looking thru the restorations. What you have it the later one, but if your not too picky it works great. http://www.geocities.jp/datsunz903/

the worse thing you can do is not think, so what if you brake a part you just get a replacement, remember you have a salvage yard now I also hope this is a family thing now, it is not like house work this is fun work and your kids will be able to fix their cars as they get older and many experiences I'd like to pass on when I have a family of my own. Right now my car is what keeps me from going crazy.

It depends what kit you get. I recommend getting the ones with the bit and tap, that way you have the right bit for the coil. Napa's kits come with only the tap and the coils, and I don't mind they give you a vinyl bag with the bit info on the front so that works well. I agree the 3 sizes you need the most are listed, I've only once needed a different size on my Z. Those are the size helicoils I have also, and the taps needed to work these. The coils if done right are an upgrade in aluminum it keeps the fastener from sensing, can take the part off weather it is hot or cold and is less likely to strip. The disavantage to them is when you have a very narrow wall the bolt goes into; in that case you run the risk of cracks forming over time.

Arnie get a helicoil kit that is the best way to repair stripped out threads in alluminum. My first car the heads on every bolt was helicoiled, but your not racing the car so I would not go that far. You should get a tap and die set if you don't have one they are great for cleaning and repairing threads. Some of my taps and dies were getting worn-out so I picked up the Kobalt set at Lowes, it is a very nice set especially for the $$.

By the way when I had a MR2 I was thinking of doing a custom paint, and yes I was thinking pink, like almost white pearl color and graphics of cherry blossoms blowing across the car. Besides if it's pink you can find it easyier at the Z car shows.

I would take the pink car before that!!! What you got to do is teach them to polish and clean car parts is play. My first Z I had about 8 neighborhood kids helping me, the most was 5 at one time, longest time with one kid was 10 hours in one day. That all started when two kids stopped to ask why I'm putting so much time in a junky car, well one who likes fresh squeezed lemonade turned the question on them. Asked have ever really wanted something special, but your parents wouldn't get it for you or didn't have enough money to buy your self? Well I've always wanted a Datsun Z car even when I was your age and I now have it, ya it needs work, but that will make it more valuable to me. See I'll look at the each part and know what it took to make it look that way, and the people who helped me fix it. The reward will be greater for me than if I just bought a new sports car. The next day one of them spent 8 hours with me cleaning interior panels. I talked to the parents, took him for a ride to get ice-cream. That kids first car was purchased with lawnmower money, it is a Datsun 240z, and it's a rust bucket. My parents notice the body is done and he just got his drivers lenience. The point of this story is the hard work will make them see things differently, you get help and they respect what you have. As a kid my self I all ways wanted to know how things worked and when my dad was working on a car even at 2 I would sneak out of the house and under the car it drove my Mom nuts. I was also watching my grandfather at the farm and help rebuild my first motor at 7. I hope your kids are helping you out they will never forget it. When you leave you want them fighting over the car, because of what it means to them not how cool it is.

Keep them in a dry spot were you can see it every day to remind you how nice you want to make her. By the way let them play with the tires not the carbs. More than likely you will have plenty of boxes for the kids, you got belts to pumps that you will need plus all the rubber. It will be like Christmas for car guys soon for the two of us. I'm making some purchases for my car, getting the rubber, and the remaining fastener orders ready. I also started to plate the fasteners using Caswell's copy cad system. The larger stuff I plan to send out for cadmium plating. Glad to see your with us, it sounds like you found a winner in #3:)

I hope I'm not intruding in a middle of a topic with my next question. By the way I love your cars what great detail, and passion you put into them. I hope mine will look at least half as good as yours. My question is about the Dunlop Racing tires, I love them and would like a set for my car were they NOS? On your website, the sticker on the tire looks new, I've seen very few tires new with a sticker in as good of shape as on the tire. This made me think their might be a resource for these tires. I might be hoping too much, but it does not hurt to ask.

Mothers with a buff-ball takes most discolor and oxidation away. On the clear stuff people have asked if I took the plastic out. They are funny I just wish they would not try to touch the gauge every car show I've done if the window was down I have a finger print on the plastic:rolleyes:

You should release the air every three months or when you have high humidity and cold nights. Where you live you could consider, but not as important as what has been mentioned a pre-humidity filter that goes over the intake. the problem is your always replacing the filter material.

You can cut and splice a new wire in, just don't cut corners and make sure you use the right gage wire or you can burn out the car. I would recommend replacing bad wire. I knew a guy in high school who burned up a 66 Mustang, because he didn't want to replace the worn out wire, because it was the original. That was the last day we spoke on good terms he was a guy that hated when someone was wright and he was wrong. I told him I'd help out with the car never told him he scewed up I just found another mustang in a junk yard and asked if he would like to get parts and fix it up again, he junked it.

That's about par for the course

It sounds like a low fuel delivery problem, something may not be letting enough fuel in constantly I know you replaced the filter, pump and fuel did you ever check the screens in the carbs? To do that on the float their is around thing that has a 90 that you hook the fuel to if you take the bolt off the end and pullit apart you will find some screens clean them out if they have a lot of stuff clean them to valve in the float also. Try this as soon as it is about to stall squirt some gas in the float chamber and see if it keeps going if yes the it is a flow problem

That's nice if you want to deliver it I live in Cherry Hill NJ off rout 70 When you set it up add a moisture collection system you will not regret it. It will make your tools last longer, and will help when you use it to paint. I found the polypropylene hose to be nice it stays more playable, holds the same PSI, takes up a lot less space and is just as tough as the the PVC hose. I didn't see and regulators on it make sure to get a nice one if you don't have one. With that beast you may want to get a double adjustable regulator with two connections you will have the power with some to spare.

Find a shop that repairs alternators, generators or starters. They can get you the parts, it might take a bit they may need to order the parts

Make sure the adjuster at the slave going to the bearing push rod is adjusted. If OK, see if any fluid leaked out of the slave or master cylinder. if that is OK take the slave unit out check to see if it is OK if so then check the master. The slave even though it is under the car is easier to remove than the master. My bet that the piston or seals are bad in the mater or slave and fluid is getting by. When you take it out check for any tears, cracks, or soft or hard spots on any of the seals. The slave cylinder is easy to replace and is more likely to weir out. The master is rebuild-able.

It's off but it won't separate at the joints from the downpipe back. I'll take pictures tomorrow when it is light out. I was going to try heat next to separate the sections I don't want to destroy it in case I ever want to put it on again, but I would like to brake it down to save on room. The front pipe and muffler from the Supersprint exhaust only cost $15 to ship from Michigan to me. If you wanted the exhaust manifold that might cost more to ship. Also you might want to note the different exhaust manifolds (they have numbers on them) if your going to make a kit that starts from the exhaust manifolds. I found on my first Z a 72 with a non-smog-pump system that it had a different size outlet and pipe angle than the standard US versions and could not get the gasket for it. That car was a little special, the engine was no good from the factory so a engine was replaced in mid 73 with a hand built engine that was balanced with factory parts at that time the exhaust manifold was changed. I was told the exhaust manifold was from Japan or the Europe version, but I was also told they were brought in for Bob Sharp and BRE what ever truth that holds. The former owner I bought the car from told me Bob Sharp's shop did the work and he heard it from the original owner which lived in that area, but their is no records to prove what I was told. Sorry that was a somewhat interesting tangent, but my point is in my research about this exhaust manifold I found 4 different versions around the world for just the 69-73 production, and they had 2 different connections. Sorry I do not have the other exhaust manifold the insurance company would not sell the car back to me or place it in an auction were I could try to win it back:disappoin. I also don't have the numbers for the exhaust manifolds, I was going threw a lot when I lost that car and I can't find some of my papers. I wish I still had her I had some great memories of that car, I was even offered $35,000 for it and I turned it down and a month later someone hit me while stopped at 85mph. Sorry if I ranted to much about my first car the Z car is one of my top 10 dream cars and the @$$ hole took it away from me(like lousing a family member), got me hurt, killed his two kids and never got caught. For the two of us I hope to never see him. It has made restoring my new Z about 10X harder for me if something happens to this one I'll never own a Z again. It's to hard to restore one again.

I know that one; rebuilds from a parts dealers suck. When I worked for the parts store they were rebuilding them in India I bet their was no quality control to speak of. If I knew a good shop in your area to restore it I would tell ya, but I don't.

I worked for a little while at a parts store we had more internally regulated alternators come back, because the rebuilds didn't replace the regulator that is why I've had bad luck with getting alternators, and I just rebuild my own instead. If I was him ether rebuild the original one or take it to some one good to do it. If you return it for another one ask them to test it I did that with everyone before I gave it to them. I found they would have 20% not to spec on the shelf as rebuilt (my manager didn't like how many rebuilds I sent back, but at least we were less likely to have a return that way). The last alternator I purchased was from a junk yard for rebuild because the original regulator in my truck reversed polarity and burned out all the wires inside. I rebuilt the junk yard one for $20 in parts and $5 for the alternator with about 2 hours of work.

Check the regulator and were did you get the alternator? I'd get the original rebuilt if it is reasonable. I don't seem to have good luck otherwise

I was the first to take it off the car, it has not sagged or anything it is spot on, just 30+ years old. The other option is in the spring I'll be putting the car together (if everything goes well) and I can keep you posted on the progress. If they will give me an exhaust system that is what I'm looking for and maybe some thing else to off set my cost maybe I could trailer or ship the car up. I'd still need to price the cost of doing this , but I wanted to put it on the table to see what the thoughts of doing this would be. What I'm looking for on my car is something that looks and sounds like a classic 70's style exhaust, that gave me more aggressive. I was first thinking of making an American version of the Trust system, like if someone saw it in an article back in the day and had it made. Then I found the front half of the Suppersprint system so I was going with that, but I can't find the back half now. Maybe this is what my car needs, I'd like more info on what they want to do, I don't know whats your thoughts.