ajmcforester

Who cares about what you come in you want to get one and the best way is to know people with the same interests. I go in a FJ right now until mine is restored. Beside you can hide more drinks in your car:D

I was thinking Peter have you contacted them yet they made a system before? Why do they need a car, can't they just reproduce what they had? I think it would be great to have more options. I've done the same with tires contacting several companies that make reproduction tires and some OEMs.

I'd love to help I have the original 71 240z exhaust off the car, and the front part of the vintage supersprint exhaust system that could be shipped back and forth. The car isn't running right now so I can't give it up as I restore it. Also in another forum they had a picture of a vintage system they made back in the day this may help, maybe they can use the old schematics, and make a vintage system. http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=34920

If your skin crawls from them testing it use the loan a tool program and test it your self. They let you help them out and you can make sure they do it right. You can also bring just the alternator in, they can test it, just make sure they hook it up right. If you bring just the alternator in call before you go they only have one or two people that know how to test out of the car. Don't weight to long you can kill a good battery with a bad alternator and visa-versa, they are like your liver and kidneys if one goes bad you have a problem with the other. For a while their Auto Zone had a rebuild kits for the alternators, something to look into.

From what I could tell you could have gotten more, but you might have sat on it also its hard to tell with how the market is. If I still lived out their I would have paid you a visit I've always liked the green however I would need to remove the role-bar back to fit or put in a racing bucket (I'm a little tall). I hope the new owner likes the car I know I would:)

If I was out their I'd look at that green one

By the way New Mexico has some nice Z's I've seen posted

The blue one didn't look as nice as it did in the picture untill I put some work into it their are a lot of good Z's Colorado I grew up their and the blue one is from Colorado. When I was first looking I found some decent ones outside of Ft Collins and some ads in the Springs, and found a lot of beat-up ones in Aurora area. If you see a good deal you might want to consider flying out and taking a look, shipping a car isn't all that bad. I just would not buy sight unseen. To give you an idea on shipping in later summer of 2007 I looked at several cars hear was what I was quoted for shipping. Denver to Philly $980 Western Montana to Philly $1,300 Phoenix to Philly 1,050 Detroit to Philly $1,000 Nashville to Philly $350

Batteries do not like to be stored. I've used a battery tender for 7 years and my Dad 5. The problem might have been before you started to use one, my Dad's Corvette would kill a battery every year while in storage, so we were replacing it all the time. Since getting the battery tender my Dad has not had to replace his battery. The slow drain does more damage than anything, you don't need to disconnect you battery tender I have mine wires wired into my Z so I just reach under the passenger side fender to plug it in. If it isn't out it is plugged in. I need to get one for my FJ Cruiser since I can now park in front of a garage. I have a work vehicle so I only drive my vehicles for pleasure and personal things so sometimes my FJ sits for a week or two:)

If you find a good one, you might as well get it. These cars values have been skyrocketing. Besides it is cheaper to buy a great car instead of a good car to make great. If you do the math you would more than likely do better getting a car out of your initial price range. Hagerty insurance calls me for the last two years about increasing the value of the car with them. The only do this with cars were the value increases by 15% a year. This is compared to my Dad who doesn't get a call about his vintage Vette. That is something to think about, because it caught me by surprise when I tried to replace my first Z. In fact when I went to look for a new Z the only ones that were close to my Z were going for over $20,000 and I had a $20,000 agreed value with a not so great collector car insurance company (you get what you pay for with collector car insurance I learned that Hagertey was one of the most expensive, but the best value in my book). Well let me say this when the car was hit their was a car at a good value but it sold before I got the check I had the money and I regret not getting it. It was exactly what I wanted, a never restored Z car with good history and stories to go with it, no rust issues, some cool parts (BRE Spook, AM wheels, and front hub oilers the coolest part), but mostly stock. For a year and a half I could not find anything and ended up settling on the one I have now. Don't get me wrong I like my car but the values of these cars change so fast by the time you replace a car you will shell out a lot more.

I did this with my first 240Z and my second one untill recently when I moved to an apartment with a 17'WX37'DX12'H garage. When you look for a unit try to get one with an outlet or at least lighting. Also look at ones near switches or outlet receptacles outside. The outside receptacles can handle more power, because they are their for equipment they may need to run. If you get one were the switch is outside the unit you can get them to put a low power outlet inside (usually) if you tell them it's for a battery tender to keep the battery being dead or spilling acid on the ground (two things they would hate). About 15% of storage units will allow you to store cars, check what kind of insurance they have you might want to ad the unit to your renters insurance if they don't have coverage (we are only talking a couple more $ to cover the unit). Now the unit will cost you more a month, but you would also qualify for collector car insurance. This is provided you own another car and you don't drive it to work. If you think your limited by mile with collector car insurance that is BS, some do but not all. They do however expect you to call and ad more miles if you decide to go over your expected limit. Go with a good collector car insurance you get what you pay for when you compare the collector car insurance to each other (I learned this the hard way). Their is more work to get setup with a collector car policy, but it is worth it, first it is cheap, I pay under $125 a year for a $15,000 value on the car. You get a agreed value so if the car is totaled you don't argue about how much you get paid, it is full coverage on the vehicle. Some companies like Hagertey lobby for collector car rights and have magazines and education materials available to their customers. That reminds me I need to call and have my vehicle policy changed since it wouldn't be on the road for about 6 moths do to restoration I get about 1/2 my money for not driving it.

Why don't you do what I did turn a 10X20 storage unit into a garage. Just find a place ran by some really cool people or find one that no one is their.

Yep and when you get hooked on them you might try some of the tricks you can do with them. The SU is a fun carb to work with, the key word is work. They need more slight adjustments more than a classic 4 barrel carb, mostly because of the setup, and checking to see if they are balanced with each other, every now and again. The coolest thing in my book about them thou is it is like having a little carb (better at idle, and fuel consumption) and when you want it you have a big carb that would stall the car out at idle, and give you power under a load. In other-wards you get the cake and you get to eat it too.:classic:

That is a great question I wish I knew how to get the brake lines out, the hard fuel lines being careful I almost got them out I need to lift the car higher so I'm waiting for a day I have someone their (they came up threw the engine compartment). Anyone without a lift wants a lift:)

Why don't you register with Carl's he keeps a good record and everyone can't change it (seelink I posted earlier. I prefer reliable system he has; you can't fully trust that spreadsheet

Why don't you contact Carl Beck he tries really hard to keep that list accurate as possible. I don't know if he is the only one, he is the one I have dealt with. He also has records of people so he can contact the owner who submitted to see if their is a mistake.

I know two cars we put that on. the threads were damaged so we mounted a valve because we would strip it out bad the next time. It's not bad, but I'll stick with the tried and true plug (unless I strip the pan).

You will learn to hate or love that tool your getting, if you can find someone who worked with these carbs in your area get some beer and get educated. They are not that hard, but they can drive you nuts if you never worked with them.

Unfortunately with the ID crimes going on the information is hard to get. If you had any paperwork from prior owners that might be your best bet. Their are a lot of registry website for Z's, maybe you can get lucky. This is the best one I know of http://www.zhome.com/IZCC/ZRegisters/

I know a 72 and 73 are the same mine in the 72 had bare wires and was safer to replace the back section.

From what I can recall since I had a 73 harness it had left and right speaker wires. Now my 71 might not have that it is the only difference I can think of. If you plan to put 73 wires in the 70 I think your good if you put 70 wires in the 73 you might need wires for the right speaker.

Depending on what part of the harness yes their are changes check the sight Aren posted

It don't mater what it is made of it is a crush washer just get one the same size as the original, and check what the torque is for the washer it needs to crush to seal the surfaces and to tight and it can damage the mating surfaces. I get mine from the Toyota Dealer they have these nice, ceramic nylon ones:laugh:. They happen to be the same size as my Toyota and they give me them for free when I buy my Toyota oil filter.

I've heard of that trick with the rocks. Watch-out behind the tank baffle where you can't see seems to be the spot they rusts. My first Z the tank didn't look bad looking into it, but my filter was getting clogged with rust so I started thinking the lines had rusted out, but I also thought I'd have a hole in the lines with that much rust. So to test my theory I put 2 filters on the lines too and from the tank and the one in the engine compartment. The first one to clog was the line out of the tank I knew at that point the lines were not the culprit. I took the tank to a radiator shop that put it in the dip tank for three days and cleaned it out for only $20 and an ear and tamales to chew on (80 year old guy in a bad part of town, besides I learned a lot of great tricks with cars, I wish I made it to his house to see his racing flat 4 engine he had). Sorry got off topic, I put some rust dissolve in your gravel mix, pug the holes and let it do its thing for a day or 2, or until it starts leaking what ever comes first. Besides if it starts to leak the fuel would have found the week spot soon enough, and you don't want rust in the tank. The only rusty tank I've owned came to me that way I only had the first Z for a month before I had it dipped. what I do with metal tanks is put one court of non-detergent straight weight oil in a 1/2 full tank drive it to slosh it around and fill the tank. Yes you will get a little blue smoke for a tank, but it works well. I know a lot of old guys that do this and my current Z the first owners mechanic did this and I have no rust in the tank, and I'm the second time the tank came down, the other was to put new hoses on about 15 years a go. It starting to sound like you found a good one, good luck.

That is an easy rule of thumb, but if you use Discount Tires page I posted earlier it will calculate how off you speedometer will be and a whole lot of good numbers when looking at different tire sizes. Tire with is a good one to look at if you race you can use the data about HP and torque at the wheel to calculate optimal tire size and so on.