ajmcforester

It might help if we knew what brand of wheels, cap diameter . . . basically we need more info. I like the spoked wheels it give it a nice European look. By the way thous are nice looking mags. The mags give it a more American look.

I agree at least you still have the car and your health after the accident. That was how I lost my first Z.

Good I hope they do well still get the picts let us see how well they do for you

You better ask for pictures in every stage and name it out. Picts of paint removed, after metal fixed, after bondo if they use it, and before paint. This will help keep them honest, the thing is it will look good for about one or two years then the bondo cracks, because they have it over 1/8" thick. That was my experience and good luck getting them to repair it right. I wish you can trust the world as much as you do, but I've been screwed too many times, especially when it comes to car repair. I now do all my maintenance, and body work that I can do without a major shop. I'll buy tools that cost the same as someone else doing the job just so I get it done right. Anything I can't do I take to the best restoration shop I can find, because they will take time to do it right and ask you if you think they are doing it right, no surprises at the end The age of the car I think you can justify no bondo and use lead free leading if they can do it; which I don't think they can since you went with the insurance company company. I hope it works for you I should have sent you pictures and documents, maybe then you would believed me about only using a restoration shop.

Good luck for original center section that don't need straitening even if you do you might need to tweak it little to get it to line up.I've never had a hard time finding the side panels you need, but the center sections are usually in bad shape. The piece is very simple and a body shop should be able to take a not so perfect one and make it better. I've never had a hard time finding the side panels you need. I wish I can help more right now but I don't know your area.

If that is the case I'll be well off then especially if a add some reinforcement around the holes. I've never hit anything with the front or any part of a Z except some very light scrape on a giant speed bump that an officer directed me to go over (they took the top off the bump shortly after that). I've heard from others on forums that they have had some mild problems and I know with silver on my truck it will show very easily.

Hey, when you get the valances for the front you might want to add some more suport to the factory parts so the spook won't bend the metal as much. The parts were not designed to have a large spook and all that downforce on it. I plan to do that to mine when I add the spook (not the Z to your right). The z I have the original owner had one on the car and you can tell.

I wanted to get more insight I have not been a big fan of gluing old parts it just seems to make them more brittle, and plastics get more brittle over time. It just exacerbate the problem of cracking. I've been good with TIG welding, my grandfather thought I was a natural. I think if I set up things and take my time it would come out OK my concern is it going to have the same problems as glue? If that is the case the investment would be a waist of money. I have some good panels with most only having 1-2 cracks about .25"-1" in length. The thing is if I'm going to get a dash restored, repair the vinyl, put new seat covers on, rechrome plastic parts (may use chrome paint became allergic to chrome), have new carpets, and have the body redone, I should put the same attention in the plastic parts and do them right. At one time I did restoration judging on Corvettes and I'm looking into what some of them have done. The problem is the aftermarket for Corvettes is much better and new parts usually just bolt on if the car is straight, and almost every plastic part is made. If I decide to get a plastic welder I'll post pictures, and tips for everyone. I hope others will do the same.

By the way this is exactly why while restoring my car I'm adding a GSP trackers. These SOB out their make it hard on all of us.

I can feel the pain the blue one I had she was my baby, and she was in a hit and run and ended up lousing her not getting to part her out to build a new car it takes away from the fun when someone irresponsibility destroys something you care for. I did after 1.5 years later after a year of looking get a new z and I love it but it was not the same as my first. I wish I could have parted out my first car, it been nice to use the parts to rebuild a Z. It would have been like my car wasn't taken from me.

In my experience with insurance company recommendations of repair facilities, is that say they will redo work but I found that to be a lie. Another point about restoration shops is they will document the repairs with photo and what steps were taken to make repairs. If the repairs are done well, and you have documentation your car will be far less devalued in a sale. Collector car people are more understanding that things happen then what is let on, but they want to see a boatload of documentation.

With how that looks at the mount, that is more than $1200, I'd recommend using a restoration shop not a collision specialist. Collision specialist fix it to look good not what will last over time take this up with insurance company also if the cost of repair goes over the estament the insurance will usually cover it (with some pushing). Also don't let the insurance company tell you where to take it they want it done cheap and with most things in life you get what you pay for.

That would explain the crackling I would get and how come the section got stiffer.

If I remember polypropylene when burned releases an oily like substance usually plastics with that characteristic will not glue well. That is a trick my grandfather gave me about gluing plastics.

I'm trying to find an alternative to using glue. On my prior 240z I used ABS glue and any time I put any pressure on the panel near the repaired crack I'd hear a crackle. The plastic near the repair seem to get stiffer, witch I don't know if that is a good thing. Just to let you know I had white interior so I used clear ABS glue, maybe the black would be better. I do like the idea of using backing like fiberglass or acrylic fabric with a resin or epoxy and you can find one that flexes more than others so the panel stays pliable without separating. I was wishing we would get some more examples of people that have tried a plastic welder, but hay their are a lot of good ways to make repairs. So lets get them out their so people can read them.

What year Z and do you know what the plastic is if it's Not ABS plastic ABS glue won't work. From what I can find out about welding and know about gluing parts you need to know what type of plastic. I've seen a chart if I can find it that tells you how to test to see what plastic you have.

I noticed one kit that a lot of high end tool companies (Snap-on, Matco . . .) sell, also Northern and Eastwood with a instructional DVD and books. A nice looking kit hear some web site with it. http://www.northerntool.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/product_6970_384313_384313 http://www.eastwoodco.com/jump.jsp?itemID=16676&itemType=PRODUCT http://www.smarter.com/other-home-garden/urethane-supply-co-mini-weld-model-6-airless-plastic-welder-model-5600ht/pd--ch-32--pi-4399583.html

I was planning to lay some fiber cloth with resin on back side of areas that crack from stress like the sections between the side window and the door, but if the welder would work well I'd repair the plastic first to make it even stronger. The other reason I wanted to check on a Z based website is to find out what peoples' experience have been on the older plastics that you would find on a 240-280z. Also some input on what plastic rods work since that makes a big difference on how it will turn out.

Make a tool or buy them they make tools for this. I made my out of 98 cent 4" wide plastic puddy knife. I drilled a 3/4" hole about 2" in and cut the material to the hole making a fork that can get on each side of the clip and start prying carefully.

Has anyone tried a plastic welder? I am thinking about getting one to repair hairline cracks in the plastic panels. I was thinking that they would work like when welding cracks in metal and stop them from expanding by welding a little past the crack. I want to get some input from someone that has used them since I don't know anyone that has used one.

I had a similar setup on my first 240z, that a Flagstaff custom exhaust shop made with that same Magnaflow muffler and 2.25" pipe, except I had it mounted so the tip where over/under than side by side (looks better). One problem with that setup was when I moved outside of Philly the low vibrations you could not hear, in low tree cover neighborhood, I'd set-off every car alarm down the street even idling within 25' of the car. Ya you knew I was coming. The system was not much loader than stock, but the tone was great. I'd recommend it as long as you don't live in densely populated areas.

If you are going to modify look for a good 260z they are a lot cheaper to get than even a 280z. Also they are nearly identical to the 73 240z and easy to convert to the early bumpers, and many other parts to look just like a 240Z. The 240z are more rare and the most expensive, the 69-71 are the best years for racing because they are a little lighter from the factory, but not by much. 72 into 73 is the best driving year of the 240z they eliminated the drive shaft vibrations, and made the ride smoother with some very mild changes to the suspension. Cons of the 240z the carburetors stay in tune with each other for about 1-2 weeks and need constant adjustment; 69-71 series I had exhaust inhalation problems, fixed in 71 series II, and need much more maintenance compared to the 280z. the 73 240z may have the dreaded boat anchor carbs (flattops) that the 260Z have. The 260z is the slowest do to emissions being changed, and are looked down on. I'll tell you why in a minute why you might want one. The 280Z is a good daily driver with fuel injection, easier to find parts for when I lived in Denver I saw them in almost every junk yard. Now the fun thing about the 240-280z is that most of the engine parts can swap between the years. So you can take a E-31 head (early 240zs) and bore it out for the 280z valves, put the 280 fuel injection on. Body parts are a different story 280 parts don't transfer well to 240s and some 260s. However 240 and 260 transfer well in fact my 240 has a 260 door. I'd also like to know your location in PA I live just outside of philly. Hey! I just remember seeing a 280z for sale about a month a go near Vineland NJ I'll be down that way do you want me to get the info? It was green and looked good along the road.

Another point is these engines lasted longer than the car so you can find a lot of good engine blocks in the junk yards. I don't know a Z guy that would blame you for taking out the flattops they are bad compared to the other SUs. By the way I do like your car when I restore my current one I think I'll put some pictures up also.

Take the block to a really good engine restorer many times a cracked block can be repaired, but you need some of the best to do it. I swapped an engine in my truck and the truck never felt the same, and I loved that truck.