ajmcforester

Congrats it is now yours. Time to rebuild the carbs and have some fun. By the way gas face thing priceless.

Their are some nice parts if you want to spend the money, and remember shipping is not cheap from Japan. By the way if you want to read the site use a translator add on, like I did.

1. Do I need to remove the dash to get at the front part of the trans tunnel and the firewall insulator? Yes if you want to remove all the firewall insulator since brackets bolt through the insulator. Question is why are you removing it from the firewall and want to keep the dash in? I can see removing it to put a new isolating material down. The reason is it keeps the heat out of the cabin. 2. I have the factory A/C option, if I have to remove the dash are there extra mounting locations for the evaporator or can the A/C unit move with the dash? (A/C is uncharged...)? The AC unit is not factory to the car, the dealership may have added it to the car. This is very important to note, because some of the parts might not be mounted the same in each car as if it was done by the factory. The dash should be able to be removed without disconnecting the AC unit (minus some wire connections to the AC controls). The unit is attached to the fan not to the dash 3. Can I pull the dash alone, or will I need a helper? I did it my self

That makes since I've seen you post before and I didn't think the car fit your style but you never know. The rims will be a good thing to look for.

A little more details can help. Note we will more than likely find parts if your going to get a car in good enough shape so engine pictures are very important.

Lucky your not the only one that has found these in the same place on their car on this site. They were used used in the production, but I don't know much else about them and why you find them in some of the cars. I would need to know more about the production of the car for this before I fathom a guess.

Yes it was a series one if I wasn't restoring the one I got I'd go for it. From my memory I think it was one of the last series I made. Also the car has some spots of surface rust back then so who ever gets it needs to do a good check for rust

I remember this car from when I lived in Arvada, he even drove it in the snow. It would be a good car for someone that would like to take it apart and clean it up I thought 8 years a go it was ready for that. The car looked strait and ran well. I hope someone might be interested in it.

I did not think a transformer from a Microwave was strong enough to make a welder. I might need to find a microwave

FYI if your looking for the original feel the shock itself can be rebuilt.

For that price they should be near or close to perfect when done. I hope it is worth it. If your getting that redone I hope you are having the cone on the speaker redone also, that is a lot cheaper.

You can find racks the use the gutters, but they will mar up the trim piece. I had ones on a 210 for skis

One that I liked to use was the "-" to subtract words. I have a Revco Fridge from the 50's that I was looking for information on, do you know how many commercial fridges I get for research labs, I don't think information on a freezer that can go to -30 F is going to help. What about searches for 240Z stuff, how many things do we get for 240SX. Even stuff they did to separate sites they can't even do that right .com (Mike no affiance) is for commercial sites, org for organizations and so on. You know how much that would help reduce sorting sites when you are looking to buy something or to get information. Blue the world is only as smart and the dumbest person, and boy are they dumb.

Can we say rust foil. The car looks like it would fold in half if you even tried to move it. Strip anything good and junk the rest if it does not disintegrate when you blow on it.

Blue, I must like the curves more. It would be an Easter egg hunt for the key to turn the engine off after I drove the car.

Hey all the search engines about 20 years a go started cutting out search tools. Before that I could make searches that just gave me the information I want. Also do not get me going about searches over 5-7 words what they did then as to now, or searches with 2-3 long words (like scentific names of several trees when looking for a study or relationship between them). Blue you sound like me about 20 years a go.

If you wanted to send them to New Jersey I can take it to the place that did mine.

I agree with Carl, and Spirit is one of the best when it comes to Zs and will be a big help. Don't forget to check the fuel pump before starting, if you have the mechanical pump it would not be a bad idea to take the top of the pump off and clean out the valves. Once it starts (it will start its a Datsun I6) try not to drive it until you flush and check the brakes, and make sure the drive-line is moving smoothly and lubricated. Also check the rack before driving see if the boots are cracked and check behind the boot to see if it is clean damaging the rack can be just as expensive as the engine.

Do what I did, have a good locksmith rebuild and/or recondition the locks and ignition, and make new keys from the code on the lock. The lock rebuild kits for our cars are not made anymore so you will need to call several locksmiths to find someone with a kit. The kit will have new doors for the lock, coves, and any other part the locksmith needs to make all the locks on the car work like new. They can get your key code from the side of the lock and make you new keys that matched the original and they do not need the key. Don't skimp and have just the ignition rebuild the door lock, and rear deck lid lock is more than likely in the poor condition and if you rebuild these locks you will want the others done because they work so much nicer. If you can take the locks off and bring them in and leave them with them it will reduce the cost greatly allowing them to do your locks in slow times (also they can pay better attention to detail). It cost me $35 to get all locks and the ignition rebuilt with 4 new keys.

Great work

Yep I learned not to plate on high humid days in NJ or take it down to the basement. I had low contact this the sight over the last 1-1.5 years the site, I bought a house from the 50's with a garage almost perfect for a lift. TO make it perfect I need to switch to a sliding door over an overhead door so I can have 24' of lift height. I bet you can guess that I understand your discretion of the region by the user name.

Nice garage with great landscaping. That is the place I just want to relax and wrench on call all day

I had on my first Z lost the washers on the drives side and I do not remember that much of an aliment issue. Until I took the door apart and the roller that clips on the top of the door broke then it was bad. it was funny the other side was missing the roller that clips on no problem with good washers until you reached over 45 mph. The combo of missing both parts makes it not work well. I had another part so that was how I repaired it and the old one from the car is my extra. I just went down and looked at my extra window parts. You might want to check the auto part store I remember at one time they sold a window repair kit with similar parts. They had a pin that screwed together that the rollers connected to (make sure to use some lock-tight on the scew). If they still sell it you just need to drill out the old pin. Good luck I do not think you have many other options.

It is oriented wood fiber in a resin. I have not been able to determine the wood, the color hints to me that it maybe teak

Big welding tip, keep some scrap metal around and warmup by welding your scrap together, and getting the settings right. I can weld with the pros after 45 min to hour of warming up. Who knows maybe you can sell the scrap as art one day. Helicoils can work well I have been able to not use any on my Z. I did use them on my old tuck do to the factory cross threading some things on the block and starter. Trick to using them that found was to use a punch and punch the material in opposite sides of the coil so it can't twist anymore then tap the coil to make sure their is no pinch points. Just be careful using the punch because the metal your smashing together normally has different hardness and your part can suffer more than the coil