dhayes5

Sorry, here is a photo the BRE spook installed.

I installed the BRE Spook from BRE.2 this weekend and took my Z out on the highway for a test drive. I can say that this addition was worthwhile and has mad a noticeable difference in the front end. The steering is no longer floaty at 80mph. There was also a pretty strong cross wind blowing and this did not seem to cause issues either. I also ordered the fastener kit which consisted of clamps, and ten 1/4" bolts, fender washers, lock washers and nuts - all in stainless steel. This made installation very easy.

Ok that was enough of an endorsement for me - I bought a spook from BRE2.com yesterday and should have it Friday. I plan to either use it as is with the black gelcoat (don't want it white like the car) or, depending on how that looks, paint it flat black so it will be more subtle under the front of the car. I was planning to run a silicone bead around the perimeter where the spook attaches to the car to keep water from getting between the spook and the lower valence - and hence prevent rust. The car typically never sees wet weather but I do wash it from time to time. Did any of you seal yours when you installed them? If so, did you do something similar?

I would be interested to hear from people with this type of spoiler as well as far as front end float.

My very stock '72 240Z starts starts to have a light steering feel above about 65mph on the interstate. New tires, fresh alignment, stock ride height - all of this is good and on curvy back roads at speed it handles and corners very well. I would like to cure the light steering feel at highway speed (for me defined as up to 80mph - just normal highway driving). Have those of you with the BRE spook found that this addition helps the light steering feel at highway speeds? I am hesitant to drill into my stock Z unless there is a real benefit.

The air dam from BRE2.com that several on this post have is black. Is this the way it came or did you paint it? My '72 is white and it looks like a black BRE would look good on the car.

I am thinking about cleaning the clock in my 72 to see if I can get it going again. I have noticed that I can set the time and it will keep time for a little while after so maybe the motor is still good and it needs cleaning. I have a product I use for electronics called Deoxit. It flashes off quickly. Would using something like this be advisable?

Looking for current tire advice. I have 16x7 Panasports on my Mostly stock '72 running Kuhmo Ecsta Supra tires (205/55/16) that are about 11-12 years old (though they look new due to low miles). I don't know if it is the tire or the age (both tire and myself) but have never been overly satisfied with these tires as far as grip and ride quality. Also, don't think they are safe at 11-12 years old. I want to stick with the same size as even these rubbed my left rear tire well at one point (had to shave it down slightly). I want a good combination of ride quality, noise (like to hear exhaust note not tires) and grip. I don't care about tire wear as I drive car less than 2k /year on average so the more sticky the better - I'll feel like I am getting my moneys worth if I can at least wear them down some in the next 10 years. . I also don't drive the car unless conditions are dry. I am thinking high performance summer tires like Hankook Ventus V12 evo K110, Ventus R-S3 or Dunlop Direzza ZII - just to give ideas of the type of tire. So, in the beginning I said "current" because tires are always changing and a lot of the tire posts are several years old. Any advice here from people who have run these or similar high performance summer tires on a first gen Z?

I am looking for a rear sway bar that will fit the mountings in the photo above (already have the "hanger pieces" with the tabs for mounting it in the car). The URL where this photo came from "http://jdm-car-parts.com/customizing/bresuspention-techniques-type-rear-swaybar-on-240z/" says that this was a BRE sway bar and that there was also a similar ST one that are NLA. Does anyone know where you can get a similar sway bar today?

I have a '72 with the throttle opener still installed. I wanted to get it working as I was hoping it would help with popping and low idle speed when hot etc. Mine was frozen so I took the vacuum control valve apart, used some Kroil to loosen the adjustment screws and put it back together. At first it appeared to do the trick and I was able to adjust so that it would actuate the valve when I released the throttle. The problem is that when driving, it oscillates rather than just opening the valve for a few seconds (holding the throttle open slightly) and closing. Strange because when I checked the manifold with a vacuum gauge it was steady. Here are some photos of the device disassembled. There was foam between the orange diaphragm and the adjustment spring plate - it had disintegrated and with no suitable replacement I left it out upon reassembly. There are many posts on this that recommend removing it or disabling it but I am looking to find someone who actually got theirs working correctly?

I have the same issue. I filled the car up completely the other day and when I was making a hard left down an exit ramp, I started smelling fuel. If you get this sorted out, please post and tell up what you ended up replacing. In addition to the filler hose, there is an evaporator tank and associated the hoses associated with it.

I put a '83zxb 5-speed in my 240z last fall. I don't drive the car much and had not noticed this before but here and there when coming to a stop, I get a click through the clutch pedal. When inspecting the slave, I noticed one nut on the inside of the slave cylinder shaft and one on the outside -- effectively capturing the clutch fork. I think this is wrong and that the two nuts should be on the slave cylinder side one to be used as a lock nut and none on the opposite side (or toward the back of the car) of the clutch fork. Anyone have a photo or description on how these nuts should be installed?

I was getting ready to swap a 3.90 r200 rear end into my late '72 240z (Also installing a "ZXb" 5-speed 0.745 5th gear) and ran into a snag. While I got the 280z side flange shafts that work with the 240 half shafts, I did not realize that my r200 had the wrong pinion drive flange. My r200 has the rectangular flange with the 2" pilot and 2.94" bolt circle. The one I need is the 2.2" pilot with the 2.75" bolt circle. Question is, if I can find the correct companion flange, how hard is it to change? I ask this because I am concerned about the thrust washers behind this flange and want to know if there is any special requirement to make sure the pinion depth is not disturbed other than just putting back the thrust washers in the same order they came out. I hope this makes sense. I know differential assembly is tricky and I just want to make sure I don't make a mistake. Also, Anyone know where I can find the correct companion flange?

They straightened my front and rear bumpers and pulled out all the dents. The bumpers turned out great. Prices were as posted above.

I had my front and rear bumpers and bumper guards done at Denver Bumper. They did a great job for me as well with a very fast turn around time. My bumpers had dents etc. They straightened them out and removed the dents before replating. Make sure you ship your bumper to them via Fed Ex. I sent the first one UPS and it was very expensive. Fed Ex was about $30 from NC.

According to this thread, I have the supports for the transverse link that support the BRE type sway bar (see photo in earlier post by RTaylor). Does anyone know where I can get a rear sway bar and brackets to take advantage of this? Also, I am wanting to put an R200 in my '72 240. You are supposed to have the curved transverse link (maybe wrong term) to do this but mine is already curved as I have the newer transmission (i.e. not the early '70/'71). Is the one from the 280 even more curved or is mine fine? Again, see the photo above posted by RTaylor.

How was the fit for the MSA premium exhaust -- was it plug and play or did you have to make mods to get it to fit correctly?

Jason, that set of instructions you posted for cleaing the combination switch is great and could not be more timely. My headlights do exactly as you described where you have to turn them on and off several times to get them to work. Even more scary was that I was driving the car one time and after hitting a bump, the headlights went out. I then turned them off and on again and they came back on. Thank Again, Darren

Got the radiator back and in the car the night before Thanksgiving. The shop did a nice job. Apparently the shop that repaired it for the PO did not. Anyway, I had it done by North Raleigh Radiator (for those who might be in the area) and am very satisfied with the result. They also re-painted it so it looks nice as well.

I found it:

Well, I tried Eibachs and hated them. Now I am back to stock springs but am wondering if I could put stock 280Z sway bars (1" front and 7/8" rear -- if that was stock for the 280) into my 240. I know there is no rear mounting point but I aquired cross member (from a 280 I think) some time ago that has mounting points for the sway bar. Has anyone done this conversion? Also, I could post a picture of the crossmember but am not sure how to do so.

Dropped it off at the radiator shop today. The guy knew right where the leak was (guess he had seen this before). Also wanted to know if I wanted to sell the car. Noooooo! Anyway I am supposed to get it back tomorrow. Total cost about $75. Well see how this turns out.

There is a clip on the back side of the window crank that you can slip out with a screwdriver. Remove the escutcheon plate from the door latch (just pops out) and a philips screw (if I remember correctly) from the crome plate. Then you can pop the panel fasteners around the perimeter of the door (if you take a thin blade you can slip it between the door panel and the door and find them). Be careful to only put pressure where the fasteners are and not between them as you may break the hardboard that from which the panels are made. Good Luck!

My radiator is leaking and I am looking for a new one. The dealer wants many $$$ for this so I looked on the internet and found a place called team radiator. They have a replacement for $127 with free shipping. This looks pretty good -- maybe too good. Has anyone had experience with these guys or any aftermarket radiator they would recommend? Any perils to avoid with one of these non-OEM radiators?

My rear left spring was sagging on my '72 240 so while I was reworking the suspension, shocks etc. etc. I installed an Eibach Kit. At first it was ok but I think I am getting old because I don't like the ride to be so harsh and where I am there seem to be plenty of pot holes. Anyway, I tried to order brand new OEM springs for the car but they are no longer available. I was told that I could have my original springs re-worked, heat treated etc. Is this true? Is it possible to recondition the springs back to their original spring rates and If so does anyone have suggestions as to where to have this done. I am in Raleigh NC.