jszarecki

yeah i agree. i used to own a 1982 ss with a 400 small block and the joke around base was it got 2 gallons per mile... im trying to get this car liek a custom BRE car. but road legal. i knwo it will take some time. i was thinking is it possible to buy an entire dash gages in all, from a junkyard, but not pay an arm and a leg for it? and as for my engiune. i only need ot fix or replace a lifter or two..i can hear one not working right. only mod i want to do there is replace my e.manafold with headers. and use a monza exhaust 9probably-just love that euro sound)

hey all, yesterday after finally fixing my Z. i was confronted by someone who is alos a car enthuseist (not chevy or datsun) but old 30's fords, who said i should SELL my Z in favor of a camaro. the reason: will cost less money and time trying to upkeep-it. i dont want to sell my car, althought it has recently become a huge hassle to get it running because of stupid theves stealing $^!# from my car. anyway, ive put too much time and effort in this thing to give up now. this person tells me that im too young and do not have enough money coming in to keep it, or to try and restore it. i told him its my only car and i wanna see it thru to the end! he said id prolly get 200 bucks if i sold it. i dissagreed as my car doesnt need ot be smogged anymore in CA and i knwo people in my Z-Club that woudl pay more than that for it. i paid a grand for this 280 and have put alot of new parts on it. i dont want to give up, but cant find a reason to tell peole WHY i want to keep him (the car). thoughts/opinions?

all of a sudden teh lights work again.. damn "ghosts in the Machine" also car runs fine again, once i ran a wire from the ignition to the VRegulator. must now rewire the tach. and trouble shoot the gas gage

my running lights work, but brake and headlamps dont work...neither do the blinkers. the hazzards DO work however... suggestions? fuses are good

hey all... question. does anyone know where on the ignition switch the green wire from the voltage regulator goes? to be more specific...the "green" wire comes off the VR plug and according to the wiring diagrams i have it goes directly to the ignition switch. if only that were so... it goes thru a punch of connection points first. was wondering if this wire is supposed to be connected in a splice to the black with a blue stripe at the switch. if not, can i connect it there anyway to get power? there is a constant power send once teh switch is on at the black/blue wire.

hey all... question. does anyone know where on the ignition switch the green wire from teh voltage regulator goes? to be more specific...the "green" wire comes off the VR plug and according to the wiring diagrams i have it goes directly to the ignition switch. if only that were so... it goes thru a punch of connection points first. was wondering if this wire is supposed to be connected in a splice to the black with a blue stripe at the switch. if not, can i connect it there anyway to get power? there is a constant power send once teh switch is on at the black/blue wire.

do you mean an Engine Strap? i havnt seen one...but than again, im not sure where to look for that. so use what, 12 gage wire from lets say the bolts on the bottom of the engine? and attatch it to lets say the strut tower bolts? what does this do, besides ground the engine?

ok, i know that...however my VR is rivited together. it's a wells VR. you cannot take it apart

hey folks: here's the story (updated) thanks all of you for your help so far. but im still stuck after fixing a few things. replaced ALT replaced Voltage Regulator Replaced Fuseable Links checked continuity on F & N wires in the plug at the ALT. wires are good if i connect a wire from the vertical part of the ALT to the battery, i get 13-16 volts showing on a Voltage Meter. so i know the ALT is good. ---------------- Q:Is there anyway to "check" the VR? Q:The Girlfriend says/susp[ects that since the new battery has been used for the past week or so to try and start teh car repeadely, sometimes with the help of a booster pack, perhaps the batt needs to be recharged. the batt currently only has about 8 volts in it. so when I'm running My car I've got the booster pack hooked up. but i figure that this shouldn't matter, i still should see over 13volts from the ALT. any suggestions?

i've got one for ya... my band went on a national US tour, and of course we all shared teh duties of driving the tour van. 15 passenger with a trailer. this thing was really big compared to a Z. so 3 weeks ago, before my electrical issues, i jumped into my Z, startee it up, and stepped on the gas, and drove off. i forgot how cool these things handled...it was like, okay, im 3" from the ground, i can see a hood in front of me, and damn, a rearview mirror! i totally agree...

if by bypassing, you mean: hooking a wire from the ALT to teh + BATT terminal...than yes. however, teh VR is new, will have it tested later this week. can i run the car this way? the batt is receiving from 13.5 to high 16's... im putting a 10 gage wire on there

so is the noise supressor nessesary? i haev one as well, and its wire is kinds messed up

the wires that are not connected are as follows: hazzard switch defrost switch fuel light defrost light there are a bunch of other wires that dont seem to have a home. so im not sure what to do with them... as for teh car not starting it starts now, but i kinda had to bypass the VRegulator by running a jumper wire to the + post on the battery. I currently havea 16 gage wire there, but will either replace with a 12 or 10 gage depending on what voltage i get over teh wire after testing, or i might install a capacitor in line somewhere.... the reason i did this is because after using a line splice to teh new VR wire pre-plug i didnt get any responce... im gonna try and get teh VR tested, but i called kragen and they cant test it and thats where i got it. im gonna go ask auto zone, since i kno wthey can.... somehow maybe all the jumping in the past week has fried it. i guess my questions is...whats the max voltage i can send to the battery? before its too much. also does anyoen know how to test amperage from a voltage tester? all the settings i put it on read OL except for DC volt settings

i tested teh ALT plug section by adding a jumper wire from there to the positive terminal on teh battery. read between 14.5 and 15.3 so the ALT is good. so...i'm suposing ill need to replace the wires between the old plug from teh ALT and to the VR, where they go to. possibly the whole plug between teh VR and the harnes is bad?

this i scool...any one seen one? http://www.classiczcars.com/photopost/showphoto.php?photo=17572&size=big&cat=3224&page=3

alt is brand new... bat cabels are brand new the cables TO teh ALT are NOT new...no corrosion though. i suppose i coudl unwrap them and replace all of them..... i didi a voltage test...there is no drops in volts from either fuseable link (12.67 everywhere) i have nothign plugges in except ignition switch and the colorfull plugs on teh passenger side. (ie: the gas (which never worked) hazzard and defront(also neverworked) are not plugged in. (this indicator and swittches)

no one has an answer?