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Never mind. It just sold on eBay.

Do to extenuating circumstances my daughter will be unable to attend the Bonnaroo 2014 Music Festival in Manchester, Tenn starting June 12th through 16th. I'm selling this ticket for less than she paid. I can accept Paypal or cash in person. The selling price was $328. I'm letting it go for $275. It includes the wrist band (ticket), bandana, flyer and lunch pail. The wrist band has not been registered yet so you'll need to do so upon receiving it. I will mail by USPS priority 'signature required' upon payment. Local pickup available too. Don't let a wonderful event pass you by! PM me... Here is a link to the laundry list of musicians attending this year. Bonnaroo

I'm just pointing out that I've listed some stuff on Craigslist in Hampton Roads Va. Gotta clear some stuff out. Datsun Z parts and Datsun 510 parts. Hope this doesn't offend the admins. If so, please snuff it.

I haven't seen the car in person. The guy supposedly bought recently and his wife went batcrap. He's asking $6500, 66k miles, non-turbo, lots of records. It's in Va beach Va. An office mate's girlfriend's friend is spreading the word. If you might be interested let me know and I'll send a phone number.

My stroker project... This just an overview. A lot of thought, machine work and cash went into the finished product. It still sits on the engine stand waiting for the SC nose support and belt tensioner to be fabbed. It will have to wait until the new garage is completed. LD28 block V07 crankshaft L20B rods JE Pistons P90A mechanical head custom Isky cam grind custom head bolts custom intake water/air aftercooler M62 supercharger Punched block out .020 to clean bores. turned crank .010 & balanced shot peened & balanced rods lightly dished forged pistons providing 8.3 c/r bore is 85mm stroke is 83mm b/s is 1.024 rod length is 145.9mm r/s is 1.75

That should work. You'll need a fuel pressure regulator to cut the psi back to 2-2.5. I'm stilling running the stock salvage yard pump.

There a few ways to pull the engine and transmission. If you've got to remove both then I'd suggest removing the hood (obviously), jacking up the rear of the vehicle (place rear wheels on blocks or use jack stands) and remove engine/trans as one assembly. A rolling engine hoist would be needed to follow my suggestion. This allows the assembly to be tilted far less to clear the tunnel and radiator support.

Tidewater Z could perform the work although it isn't their typical line of service. There a plenty of body shops around, not all of them good. Just because they own a welder and some body tools doesn't make them proficient or knowledgeable. Get references from clients that have had similar work performed. Two places that come to mind for great service is Fanthom Auto Works at 25th and Hampton Blvd in Norfolk and European Body Werks at 3961 South Military Highway heading towards Bowers Hill in Chesapeake. Fanthom performs top notch repair. European repaired my 240Z when a blown out tire beat the crap out of the wheel well. That repair was undetectable when completed.

Elaborate. Are the floor pans going, framerails or both?

I doubt it is a bearing as it would be horribly noisy if this much play were present. It is remotely possible for the flange to separate from the stub axle. If the axle were actually bent you'd have a lot more problems! I'd pull the wheel and look for hairline cracks around the inner perimeter of flange. By your avatar it appears you are running alloy wheels. These bend less easily than steel but be sure it is fully seating on the flange. If your wheels are actually old aftermarket alloys that use a shanked lugnut be sure the lugsnuts aren't bottoming out before the wheel is tight. Lastly, it could be your tire is starting to delaminate causing the tread to shift giving the appearance of wobbling. That can cause some terrifying seconds if it decides to let go at an inappropriate moment. Maybe you should let someone else drive the Z while you follow to get a visual of the problem.

Just pulling the transmission for the other services would have no affect unless the persons doing so did one of the following mentioned below (that assumes there was no problem before that service). As noted, there is no syncro on reverse. These gears usually get chewed up by impatient drivers that force the transmission into reverse while the vehicle is rolling forward or somehow miss a downshift from fifth to fourth and find reverse by mistake. I've had to replace these gears in every gearbox rebuild except for one unit. It won't affect operation unless a bit of gear tooth manages to get into any of the other gears causing crashing of metal.

Hooter's girls were suppose to be at the show but failed. Too bad because there were actually a couple of attractive girls working during the 'to go' party on Saturday. The lack of vendor support I associate with being on the east coast since the bigger companies reside out west. I'm sure the Z events on the west coast get a lot more on-site support. That said, many vendors did step up to provide financial and auction item support for the event. A huge thanks goes out to each and every one of them for the help!

These are still available through Nissan. I have a new one under the bed (yeah, I'm single...HA) that I paid about $375 for a couple years ago. You might contact Courtesy Parts in San Antonio and ask what they can do for you. Your local dealer could order it too but you'll need the part number to assist them. I'll try to remember to pull out that hood and get the P/N off the box for you this evening.

Some members of the TZCCVA are heading south Sunday morning around 9AM. That should get us there by dinner time assuming no issues with my 240Z (everyone else is towing or driving newer vehicles). Spare parts and tools should keep the gremlins at bay. It's going to be a blast! of course, it's suppose to T-storm all F'ing week (50%). Being on the Atlantic Coast means that can change in mere minutes though.

No outer stub axle bearing seals. The outer bearing is sealed and there is a dust ring attached to the axle flange to deflect some road debri.

Pull the valve cover, pull the spray bar, tap the holes in the cam towers (3 each) with a 6mm tap about 1/4" deep using bearing grease on the tap to catch the shavings, install 6mm set screws until nice and snug (don't get heavy handed), replace the valve cover. The internal oiling of the cam is fine. Swap out the stock pump to a Melling 111 (about $100) if you want a bit more pressure. I run Rotella T 15w40 and a bottle of GM EOS. My pressure is about 11psi at a hot idle.

Assuming it's a carb'd engine I'd run a 80-81 RX-7 electric pump. It puts out a steady 4psi and is very quiet. That's what I've been running for years now in my 71 240Z.

Interesting. I thought of this too but only in the context of a 5.1 system. I beleive you'll have to add tweeters outboard of those mids to project better imaging. I ended up building a cabinet that sits between the seats and strut towers holding a 10" sub, 6.5" mid-bass and two tweeters. The front mid-bass sit in 1" thick spacers mounted over the lower door hinge holes (for depth) and tweeters are up in the metal finisher just left and right of the defrost vents. All are JL Audio driven by a Brax/Helix 5 channel amp. There is two layers of 'second skin' foil dampner/acoustic foam/sludge. That made as much of a difference in sound quality as anything else I could have done. At the end of it all these are old noisy cars with crappy acoustics. Better to spend your money on quality equipment for the home.

www.piercemanifolds.com/category_s/32.htm.com

Well, I decided to adjust my lifters today because the valvetrain was starting to get louder and power was off by the seat of my pants. I got to #4 exhaust and bumped it to put the lobe base on the rocker. As I looked closely I realized that the backside of the lobe was heavily wiped. It is/was a Crane cam with 272 lift. It sucks because I only needed the car running until after ZCON2011. I now have to make a decision. I can swap the hotter L28 out of my 280Z track car because it isn't street legal or being driven right now or I can swap out the worn camshaft with either a 'A' or 'B' cam I have in the garage or pull the camshaft out of the 280Z (specs unknown). If I choose the easier path of a simple cam swap which cam would you go with. After ZCON2011 I will be parking the 240Z for a teardown and restore. It will be receiving my new SC'd L28 stroker and WC T5 so whatever I do is just to get me through this July.

An alternative solution would be to carefully measure and remeasure the bolt locations. Drill down from the hatch area using a hole saw to expose the studs. The hole saw should be big enough the let a deepwell socket reach through. Install a nut on all studs. Weld these to the studs on top. Soak these with Kroil or PB Blaster over night. Put an impact or breaker bar on these and turn them out. Run a tap from the bottom to clean the threads and use rubber plugs to seal the holes you drilled for access. Be sure to wear goggles! I've had rusty metal removed through foolish behavior...it isn't fun.

For the L6, the Petronix unit is fixed at 28 degrees dwell. There are two mounting screws with no adjustment possible as delivered. It is a simple hall's effect sensor. There is a possibility of some failure due to a magnet strength but these things are so simple it's hard to be sure. Hopefully, he didn't follow the instructions. For what it is worth, the black lead from the distributor goes to the (-) of the coil. The red lead goes to the 12V side of the ballast resistor not the (+) of the coil as directed. The ballast should be used unless you are CERTAIN that the coil will operate on 12V. I burned up my 3 ohm coil following Petronix instructions of removing the ballast resistor. Swapping in points and resetting timing will point to the problem quickly.

Most likely. FSM is 'factory service manual'. Go to carfiche.com and download the manual. Don't forget to donate a buck or two to the cause. It's a great 'free' site that I have no connections to except to downloading lots of good info.

On my diesel block (SC'd petrol stroker project) the same arrangement exist. I'm using the factory remote oil cooler adapter from a 280ZXT. It has an o-ring to seal against the block where the oil filter seal normally rides. The top threaded hole is used to 'locate' the adapter. The center oil hose fitting is tightened (passes through adapter and threads into the block) to secure the adapter tightly cinching up tet o-ring I mentioned. I'm certain that the other threaded bolt holes allow for the same purpose depending on what adapter you're using and where you want the oil filiter to sit.

The magnet simply triggers the sensor which fires the coil. If it's working on 5 cylinders then the sensor is fine. Some folks remove the tape and epoxy the magnets into place. I just installed a Petronix in my 71 and it is working fine (although I burned out the new coil by removing the ballast as directed in the instructions). I will probably pull the rotor assembly and glue those magnets into place before I make the 12 hour drive to Savannah for ZCON2011.