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I'd thought of going too. The Amtrak deal would be ideal and a little like the Orient Express (very little...hahaha). Anyhow, this event conflicts with my annual Land Rover Rally so I'll not be able to make it.

interesting info, beandip. I'll look into that too. Thanks.

I only need one. If you can assist please E-mail at mark4460@cox.net. I'll gladly compensate you for the part and trouble.

Does anyone have one of these in good condition available? It is the chrome piece that covers the screw on the door pull strap. Any help is greatly appreciated. PM me if you can help.

Basic and to the point but it leaves out the linkage adjustment entirely. Linkage adjustment is also critical for true balance from idle to top rpm.

If the hub is seized to crank nose or the rubber is in poor condition you can dislodge the outer ring from the hub using a three arm puller. The rubber literally shears or separates from the inner hub and outer ring. That renders a crank pulley useless. It would be better to acquire the proper bolts to use with a hub puller to ensure it comes off straight and causes no unnecessary damage.

Being rear-ended is my biggest fear. I always give myself ten or more feet between me and the car I'm following at stoplights. I also watch the rearview and pump the brakes to flash the brakelights to upcoming vehicles. I've thought about getting a brakelight flasher unit like the bikers use. Sometimes driving a near pristine 240Z is less than enjoyable being worryed about the drunk, distracted or stoplight running driver slamming into me.

The reason for leaking in a nose up attitude is the oil level shifts. Think about it. Put water in a glass and tilt it. The fluid remains horizonal while the vessel is tilted. When parked level the oil is below that point at which it weeps out of the speedo housing, cable or wherever.

Carl is correct. Changing the rod will likely have no effect on the problem at hand. When the clutch is engaged there should be very little BUT perceivable play in the clutch fork. This ensures that the throwout bearing is not keeping the pressure plate lightly disengaged or allowing the TO bearing to be turning even when not in use (declutching). I replied to your post over at Zcar with more detail if you want to look there.

Wasn't this added to help eleviate vibration problems or I'm I thinking of another part?

You'll need to do some measuring to be sure. If the Maxima had a L6 then the bellhousing bolt pattern should be the same. The gearing may be different though. From a production standpoint I think Nissan would have used the same gearbox. Let us know what you find. Looking for a GOOD rebuilt gearbox? E-mail me at mark4460@cox.net. I'm on the east coast.

Not much, most people looking for an engine are also looking to go to the 2.8 or build a stroker.

My 11/70 has the early style console and the fast idle lever too.

I'm rebuilding a 89 240SX transmission right now. The machining for the larger CS bearing and milling the face for clearance is simple as is reaming the hole for the larger fork rod. The shifter is located 2" further back than the earlier 5 speeds. In my mind there are several options to work around this. I haven't gotten far enough to be concerned about that, the transmission crossmember or driveshaft. These things will work themselves out though. The only thing I have not looked heavily into is the speedo drive gear. The 240SX housing (electronic VSS) is the same size as a 280ZX housing. The driven (plastic) gear is larger in the 240SX and the drive (plastic) gear on the output shaft is also larger. I don't know if the 280ZX gear will engage properly once the housing is installed and properly rotated for the retainer and bolt. I must assume that others have done this with success. It would be nice to have more info here for those having gone before.

I think you should start back at the solenoid. Sounds like your problems stem from there. Disconnect the neg of the battery. Remove, clean, tighten, replace bad connector(s), etc. and put it all back together. While there also check the battery cables and grounds for clean tight connections. Reconnect the neg of the battery and see if things quiet down.

I use Royal Silver and Virginia Plating (located in Norfolk and Newport News) in Virginia. You can find them using www.anywho.com. I had my hardware yellow zinc plated at Virginia and chrome done at Royal). Cadium is very expensive anymore due to EPA regs and arsenic used in the process. The results is very impressive. Since my Z never sees rain I expect the finish to last a long long time. You should ba able to locate a plating shop in your area or down in the Charlotte area.

Pull and check for oil fouled spark plugs. It sounds like heavily worn valve guides and seals to me without any other specific description of problems. A head rebuild may be in order.

I believe you are right, ktm. That's what happens when you're suppose to be working but skimming the Z forums instead. Thanks for correcting me.

I wonder that myself. I have one of the VHS tapes. While it is VERY informative the quality is less than some cheap chinese pirated movie I've seen. I can only imagine that Steve would have to start from scratch to create another tape or cd of such standard to match his great products.

Yes and no, the bar is the same dimensions. The holes for the R180 and R200 diff are spaced differently. It's best to acquire the proper bar for the diff you use as drilling this steel spring material is very difficult.

What wheels are those? They look great too. Fantastic conversion all the way around!

$8500 plus an airline ticket to get to my 240Z. After the upgrades its more around $13-14k. It's a very nice car for what it is being 36 years old. One day I'll tear her down for a proper paint job. All in all, it's a expensive toy but far less than a new car payment for 5 or 6 years!

I celebrated the 19th anniversary of my 29th birthday in P-town, Virginia.

I've seen a lot worse to start with. You'll find plenty of info here. Do searches and plan on hours spent reading and deciphering.

This is too funny. I purchased my 240Z about three years ago and drove it 500 miles to get it home. The brakes were stiff and I accounted that to the old system. Having driven older trucks and cars I am accustom to hard brakes. Well, I almost immediately put the car on jack stands to replace the struts and springs and do some modifications including upgraded brakes. I installed the 15/16 280Zx MC, vented discs/280Z calipers up front and solid discs/240SX calipers out back. Braking improved but pedal pressure was still hard and stiff. I decided to upgrade to the 280Z booster. I 'thought' I percieved better braking but it was still very stiff and hard. Mind you, I only drive this car about 30 miles a month depending on the weather (NO rain). The other day I had the chance to drive a friend's 280Z. This was the only other Z I've ever driven. The difference in compliance and, especially braking, was hugh. The series I and II 240Z's are definately true sports cars. I drove home convinced that something had to be wrong. My friend, Wayne, suggested I look at the vacuum check valve to be sure it wasn't installed wrong. Two days past and I finally got around to it. Sure enough, the valve was backwards from the P.O. and I never checked it out. A quick down the road at speed and I applied the brakes. Holy crap! I almost threw myself into the dash! The damn car nearly stopped in it's own length. It cracks me up that something so simple had eluded me for months on end. Now I wonder how well the original brakes would have performed if that check valve had been installed correctly the first time.