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That's definately cool... I couldn't help but think what that guy's fingers would have felt like if a backfire had occured through the carb while gunning the engine. I've seen a head full of hair burn off that way....maybe that's why his was receding...

While 500 lbs (probably closer to 425-450 lb/ft) sounds like a lot of torque it really isn't in the scheme of things considering the size of the components. The most probable damage would be to distort the distance piece as it is longer and thinner than the inner bearing races. Damage to the stub axle threads might also occur. I agree the torque is too high for the application though. I loosened one nut, tapped things free and retorqued to about 200-250 lb/ft as required. The rolling resistance remains the same. I'll retorque the other stub axle too. I also failed to consider the lack of leverage when rotating the assembly with only the stub axle. I'm sure the addition of a wheel/tire will show much less resistance, if any. Thanks for the insight.

I'm calling on those gone before me. I assembled my 240Z rear stub axles today. All new parts from Nissan were used. The seals were pressed in until they seated as shown in the FSM.The only difference was I used the 280Z stub axles and companion flanges. The housings were marked "B" and I reused the "B" distance pieces that were not deformed or crushed. I ran down the nuts with my impact (about 500 b/ft) which I know exceeded the factory torque spec. I could disassemble and install new distance pieces and retorque if I need to. When I rotate the stub axles there is no noise but they have moderate rolling resistance. I don't suspect any problems but wanted to hear from anyone who has done this and experienced the same thing.

2 5/8 and 5 inch diameter. This is not a drop in. Search for autometer or gauges and check each post out. There is one out there that tells hows the 2 5/8 gauges were done by gutting the original gauge housings and inserting the autometers. Some folks just wrap tape around the gauge until it is a tight fit while others go to a more elaborate setup. There is no one method...it's up to your skill and imagination.

Sounds a lot like the float(s) aren't set right. A high float will allow excess fuel into the emulsion tube area and dribble into the venturi. No adjustment will correct that.

I suggest you fab your own using this type of rod end https://secure1.securehosting.us/jerrybickel/prodlist.cfm?category=Linkage. They are far more durable. I used similar parts in my custom linkage. Just do a web search of ball joint rod ends.

If you have a plasma cutter or torch there's a part or two I'd like too. I live just up in SE Va.

I made the bracket behind the OE bracket at the firewall and the one at the valve cover. The VC bracket is bolted to the back two intake studs. I also made and welded on the lever on the actuator rod. Several holes were drilled in hopes of some adjustability for full throttle movement and pedal pressure. There is also a tubular piece made to extend the actuator rod from the firewall as can be seen easily in the photo. I figured it would help spread out the rotational forces of the linkage instead of simply welding a lever on the end of the cross rod. The cable was a 36" Lokar that I cut to length. I did not modify to throttle linkage at all. I used the cup similar to the original Lokar piece. It snapped right over the ball on the original linkage. It came out real sweet. The only noticable difference is a heavier pedal due to the extra spring forces of three carbs.

Here are two shots from my 240Z of the Lokar cable setup I made. pic 1 pic 2

You have the old York a/c compressor there (strange location for it since the original sat on the other side and upright). You could swap it out for a Sanden a/c compressor and bracket to clear the cover. The a/c will also operate with less pull on the motor and less overall vibration too.

Inserted from another post.... Post #1. Made my spindle pin removal tool and got to work today. Things are nice and clean under my Z...no rust or corrosion. I decided to drop both sides complete. Pulling the driveshafts took less than 30 minutes. Every bolt came out without a hitch. In 20 minutes I had both strut/control arms assemblies on the ground. I quickly ground out the flats on the stub axles and spun the nuts off. A few mild hammer blows with a bar of aluminum and the stub axles were out (swapping for the 280Z stub axles). One spindle pin came right out with no fuss. Damn, things were really looking good. The other spindle pin was completely frozen in place. I sheared the threaded end off in my tool...double damn! I used a cutoff wheel to sever the pin on either side of the stub axle housing. Clamped in a vice, I put serious heat using an acetylene/oxygen torch on the housing. No matter how I pounded the pin remnant it will not come out. Post #2. First of all, I sheared the threaded portion off in my pin puller. It can be repaired and will remove all but the most stubborn pins. Now the good news, the pin is OUT!!! I brought the assembly into work and went to see my good friend in the machine shop. The housing was sprayed with Aero Kroil. This stuff is amazing. I've used every nut buster out there and this stuff outshines them all! We turned down several grade 8 9/16" bolts in various lengths without the threads. I drilled a 11/16" hole through a 1/2" plate to support the housing 360 degrees. We used a 15 ton press and used a 1/2" long bolt to start. This minimized the risk of it being shot out under tremendous load (Warning: this operation can easily maim or kill you...Safety First!). at 3,000 PSI the pin started to move. It became progressively easier and finally dropped out. There was no rust, in this case, to sieze the pin. What had happened was an overzealous PO or tech had driven the lock pin in so tightly that it distorted the spindle pin and caused the ensuing mayhem. The pin was actually deformed on top from hammer blows! Apparently, they didn't understand the purpose of that lock pin. It is ONLY there to stop the pin from rotating when installing/removing the nuts. Only enough force is required to snug up the lock washer against the housing and NO MORE! I plan on using a Nylock for that purpose on reinstallation. The pin puller is a GREAT tool and will save a lot of grief for all but the most stubborn pins. Get hold of one and give it a try first. Update, I purchased an Omega 25 ton press for the garage. I've already pushed the bushings out fo the control arms and blasted these for powder coating. The press is an invaluable but expensive tool. I paid $556 out the door for mine. After looking at the options at harbor freight, northern tool, etc. I settled on the Omega because it was well built despite being crafted overseas.

Webers will leak into the venturi if the fuel enrichment circuit is leaking. This would be the choke circuit, in other words. Apparently, the feed for the circuit is below the fuel bowl level so if the valve is not seated correctly fuel will weep into the venturi. It will also be drawn in at idle causing a rich setting that no amount of tuning will cure. Check this first....

Pull the distributor cap and spray with everything WD-40 or another water disperser. Make sure the points are set proper and not loose and the condensor too. At night, open the hood in a very dark place and look for blue aura around the cap, wires and plugs. You should only see a faint blue glow at the base of the sparkplugs boots, if anything at all. Any blue glow anywhere else down the sparkplug wires indicates an isulation breakdown. Also look at the coil lead as it can be jumping to the chassis too. If you look in daylight at the same areas of this glow you'll see a slight greyish color on the wire(s) where the voltage is leaking out.

I've found prices from $70 to $120 a set. There are Goodridge, Techna-fit and Earl's to choose from (maybe others?). What would be be best choice of product then price and the best source (MSA, Raceshopper, VB, etc.)? I could always go with OEM but since I'm in this deep I figure the SS flex hoses can only improve braking performance.

I totally agree that the right tool can make the job easier. I have a garage full of one-use tools to that testimony. That said, the spindle pin can and has often been a PITA to many Z owners. My suspension is in exceptional condition for a 34 y.o car. One pin came out without any problem with the puller. The other was not coming out except by great force. I was using an IR Thunder Gun (425lb/ft) and 120 psi off my 7 hp compressor. I then resorted to a breaker bar. That's when the threaded portion parted ways. I have read enough posts to know I'm not alone. Don't be intimidated. At worse you'll have to work harder to get a pin out. Be sure to soak that assembly in a rust buster for a week or two every day before taking on the job. I HIGHLY recommend AeroKroil as the only rust buster to use. Do a web search and buy a couple of cans. You'll thank me every time you use it. :classic:

First of all, I sheared the threaded portion off in my pin puller. It can be repaired and will remove all but the most stubborn pins. Now the good news, the pin is OUT!!! I brought the assembly into work and went to see my good friend in the machine shop. The housing was sprayed with Aero Kroil. This stuff is amazing. I've used every nut buster out there and this stuff outshines them all! We turned down several grade 8 9/16" bolts in various lengths without the threads. I drilled a 11/16" hole through a 1/2" plate to support the housing 360 degrees. We used a 15 ton press and used a 1/2" long bolt to start. This minimized the risk of it being shot out under tremendous load (Warning: this operation can easily maim or kill you...Safety First!). at 3,000 PSI the pin started to move. It became progressively easier and finally dropped out. There was no rust, in this case, to sieze the pin. What had happened was an overzealous PO or tech had driven the lock pin in so tightly that it distorted the spindle pin and caused the ensuing mayhem. The pin was actually deformed on top from hammer blows! Apparently, they didn't understand the purpose of that lock pin. It is ONLY there to stop the pin from rotating when installing/removing the nuts. Only enough force is required to snug up the lock washer against the housing and NO MORE! I plan on using a Nylock for that purpose on reinstallation.

Made my spindle pin removal tool and got to work today. Things are nice and clean under my Z...no rust or corrosion. I decided to drop both sides complete. Pulling the driveshafts took less than 30 minutes. Every bolt came out without a hitch. In 20 minutes I had both strut/control arms assemblies on the ground. I quickly ground out the flats on the stub axles and spun the nuts off. A few mild hammer blows with a bar of aluminum and the stub axles were out (swapping for the 280Z stub axles). One spindle pin came right out with no fuss. Damn, things were really looking good. The other spindle pin was completely frozen in place. I sheared the threaded end off in my tool...double damn! I used a cutoff wheel to sever the pin on either side of the stub axle housing. Clamped in a vice, I put serious heat using an acetylene/oxygen torch on the housing. No matter how I pounded the pin remnant it will not come out. I pose three questions here, will a northern tool or harbor freight press do the job (because I'm willing to buy one?, will a shop be able to press this out without damaging the housing? Does anyone have a good PS rear housing in case I'm totally screwed? Any input will be appreciated.

For what it's worth, I tried it in my Chevy 4.3 motivated Land Rover on a trip from Virginia to Pa going a distance of over 600 miles. I know they state you need to use the same gas from the same station. How unrealistic is that though? I had no negative effects nor any improvement in mileage either. Maybe my fuelie was already operating at peak performance? Maybe only carb'd engine benefit? Who knows...

"You can't make chicken salad out of chicken $^!#" - Grandma "The worse times in my life never happened" (or something like that) - quote over fireplace at Luray Caverns, Va. "As you get older there will be more things you regret not having done than those things you did" - Mark Twain

It's pick three numbers like in a fortune cookie! Sorry, I couldn't pass that up!

John, those two empty holes should be for the a/c lines (apparently removed form your Z by the P.O.).

It is a 65-66 series II 88" wheelbase. It does appear to be mostly original. The door mirrors (later Defender 90/110) and hinges (series III and up) are not correct but are far more functional. I run these too on my 71 IIA (headlights moved out to the wings). Maybe I'll post a pic or two of my beast. It is powered by Chevy 4.3 Vortec at present. The LS1 coiler chassis is in the garage as I type. I'd go on but this is a Z forum. Thanks for the post!

So many ideas... Go down to your local Radio Shack, Lowes, Home Depot, etc. and spend a few dollars on a cheap digital multimeter. Read the instructions. With the ignition off and all accessories off (lights, stereo, etc.) remove the negative cable from the battery. Set the multimeter to it's highest amp range. Place the multimeter leads between the negative cable and the negative post of the battery. Polarity doesn't matter here but you can put the black lead to the battery for giggles. The meter will indicate the amperage draw. You should have to turn the range down lower until you get an accurate current draw. It should be around 25-45 milliamp in your old Z. If it is upwards of .75 or higher then you need to find the source of the excess draw. First, disconnect the stereo components (remove fuses) one at a time. If the current draw drops to the 25-45 milliamp range you've found your drain. If it does not then continue on pulling fuses at the fuse box, one at a time, watching the multimeter for current drop. You'll find the culprit. If the problem occured after the stereo install I'm suspecting that you've miswired something between that equipment and the original harness. The stereo should not cause the drain. The only real drain is the dash clock and the memory in the head unit...that is in the25-75 milliamp range I refer to.

I forgot the filter too! As for the regulator, My vehicle came with three dial-types, One after the filter and the two others inline with each SU. I dialed down the pressure to 2.5 psi (no gauge though) on all three and had no problem at WOT and high rpm runs. Now there is only the one regulator left. I don't know if it is of any worth to run it but if flooding occured at idle this would be as quick an adjustment as a regulator down line form the carbs. I already have it too. I will install a gauge on the last carb T fuel fitting to monitor the pressure out of curiousity.

There are so many ways to plumb a set of tripples or so it seems. As it is merely just one more carb added why does fuel supply become complicated. My present setup (untested) is as follows... tank - RX7 low pressure electric pump - regulator (dial type) - STOCK metal fuel lines used for SU's - two lines feeding T's between each carb - factory return in metal fuel line - tank My theory is that you need to supply enough fuel to keep the bowls full at WOT, low enough pressure to allow the floats to control fuel bowl level at idle and not blow the needles off the seats (causing flooding/rich idle) and a restricted return to keep the pressure to the carbs around 3.5 -4 psi. Has anyone ever tried this arrangement? Comments?