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I'm going to drop the whole rear assembly from my 240Z. The reason is to relocate the diff, all new bushes, CV conversion, lowering springs, new struts, dropping the fuel tank for new hoses and test fitting a 240SX fuel tank (just curious). Anyhow, I understand the basics but if anyone has accomplished this (and possibly hit snags) I'd appreciate pointers. For example, is there a logical step by step method to prevent damage to me or the car? State the obvious too. You can't have too much information!

Can someone post a picture of the handthrottle bracket at the pedal end? Dimensions would be great too!

Before I call, is the ST boot the steering rack boot or the ball joint boot?

Many thanks! I'll call my local dealer this morning.

Anyone know? I only need these items as the actual joints are new. The PO apparently felt that the boots were unnecessary and left them off. The parts are basically brand new. Even the grease I wiped away had no grudge in it.

Damn, they're mighty proud of their brake line. I use the same 3/16" copper-nickel product manufactured by Automec (I'd bet Fedhill is too but with a hugh mark-up). It is by far the best material for brake lines. This product is used almost exclusively on european and scandinavian (sp?) vehicles. I'd use nothing else. http://www.automec.co.uk

I buy my small o-rings at the local auto parts store (if they have any). Check out a hose/rubber supply house or a carburator rebuild shop in your area. Oh yeah, a bearing supply house (power transmission parts) will have a decent selection too.

I'm partial to mine.... of course, it's wearing different shoes and getting lowered as I type...

I have some drawings but always like more than needed. Please provide these at your convenience to mark4460@cox.net or post here. Thanks!

I want to fab a pin remover but haven't found the pin thread/pitch size on any thread I've searched. Could someone provide this info in a timely manner? I'm not ready to rebuild the rearend on the Z yet and want the tools right there when I start.

Do a web search for "ball joint separator". You'll find several suppliers (mostly british car sites) that sell this tool for about $45. It's worth it's weight in gold, especially if you're not replacing the item but just want to do a teardown for other purposes. Don't go the pickle method as it has a tendency to 'F'-up everything (boot guaranteed to be trashed)! There's always a tool to do the job right. You might also do a search in here or at Hybridz.com for this item. I posted a source some time back but can't remember which site I posted to.

In Virginia you can run any plate the displays the appropriate tag numbers. The month/year stickers must be affixed. The problem is you have to carry a copy of the state code with you because most officers don't know ALL of the codes (imagine that). We've run british tags on our land rovers but pretty much gave up the practice because it wasn't worth the hassle of the police. Also, if you've had even one beer you're putting yourself at risk in a pullover.

With another set of hands, use a multimeter to check for 12 volts (from the ignition) at the solenoid when the key is rotated to the start position. I can't recall the color code/connection and I'm at work but someone can identify the wire and connection to the solenoid or look in the FSM. If there's 12 volts when in the start position then the solenoid is bad. If there's no 12 volts then you'll need to further investigate the ignition circuit to determine why.

Sounds like the connections (+ and -) might be dirty and not allowing enough current to spin the starter. It could also be the starter solenoid is failing. The clicking is the solenoid trying to close it's internal relay to provide voltage to the starter. Lift the leads from the battery (to prevent shorts) and then follow them to where they connect to the starter, engine block, etc. Lift these, one at a time, and clean the connection throughly then refit. Connect the battery and try again. Try this before replacing any parts.

I run 17x7 Racing Harts with the 4x114.3 pattern. These are 40mm offset used previously on my ex 94 Accord ricer. Ross at Modern made me a set of spacers approximately 28mm thick with the 4x114.3 to 4x114.3 pattern. They worked like a charm and the RH's look incredible. As for tires, I'm running Wanli 215/45R17 directionals. Everything fits with no rubbing and handling is great. My Tokico Illumina's and Eibach Pro's go on in the next week. I don't see a pending rubbing issue but will post the results.

My X ran off and married my best friend! Of course, I DIDN'T EVEN KNOW THE GUY! After 8 years I finally met the real woman of my dreams. She has everything...looks, personality, education, monetary worth, wonderful heart, insane sex drive and sooo much more...AND she loves my 240Z as much as her Porsche Cabriolet.

You could attach a steel plate to the bench top with through bolts. It could be drilled to match the 4 bolt stub axle pattern. Drop the assembly on top of this and wrench away. The hammering of the impact is what aids in the nut removal. If you don't remove the nut peening the stub axle will likely be ruined and the 280Z stubs are favored for strength and getting harder to come by. Take the time to prep the nut and it will be easier.

I'm not familiar with the 280Z but do the nuts have the peened over edge? If so, you definately need the carefully cut or grind these away before removal. Lay the tire face down and stand upon it, a good impact gun should do the rest of the work for you. It may require a 3/4 or larger gun if your 1/2 impact is of the dime store variety (harbor frieght, northern tools, etc.).

Yeah, I figured it would be the equivalent of shipping cost in petrol. Maybe one day I'll actually get to drive a bit and we'll meet up. I want to get the suspension (tokico's illumina and eibach's) installed along with the bushings, 280Z stubs, CV conversion, brake upgrade, Dellorto tripples, Miata seats, etc... blah, blah, blah. Lots of parts but little time!

I read all of this with great interest. The springs can be removed without a compressor or a Z and other cars too. However, I recommend a compressor and a good one at that. I used to work on cars in the garage for play money. On one occasion I was working on a Mazda replacing the struts. I was using one of those cheap compressors with the hooks and threaded rod. While compressing the spring one of the forged hooks gave way and the spring expanded rapidly. In a blinding moment my left thumb was stripped of flesh. I curled it into my palm and held tightly as the blood poured, yes, poured from my hand and down my arm. After the shock had passed I looked expecting to find my thumb gone or partially detached. The nail was gone as was a lot of flesh. I bandaged the thumb and called a tow truck to carry the car up to a local shop to finish the whole job. I lost money on that one! Anyhow, the point I'm hoping to make is safety should NEVER play second to anything else. I will only use a good hydraulic compressor now. Even with it's cheap (poor quality) tools at Harborfreight, the $100 hydraulic spring compressor is a decent tool for most of us. It only takes ONE time to F**K up your life or limbs. Play it safe...always!

Go to the auto parts store and get a gallon can of carb cleaner. Drop the carb pieces (no plastic) into the can a give it a soak for several hours. If crud is holding the nozzle in the solvent will soften it enough to easily remove. I've done this the get cemented adjustment screws out of Dellorto's with ease.

Thanks, Gary! One more step in the right direction.

Okay, I picked up two fuel pumps. Since I didn't pulled them myself I have no knowledge of which fittings are IN and OUT. I also don't know which wires are positive and negative (black and black/white stripe). Could someone elaborate?

That would be great. One note that I just figured out (slow learner), I need the four bolt CV joint version, not the six bolt type. I don't know if there is a difference in the shaft so I better not make chances.

I'm converting my 71 240Z to CV. So far I have the R180 CV side flanges (from a 720 4x4) and inner CV tulips. I want to run the 300ZXT CV outer CV joints using Modern Motorsports companion flanges. I need a 300ZXT axle shaft for the machinist to properly spline the custom axles. It could be the the 280ZX (the same as the 720) are the same as the 300ZXT. Can you help? NOTE: I need the four bolt CV type, not the six bolt CV type. I don't know if there are differences in the axle shaft so I don't want to chance it.