ezzzzzzz

f'ing slow internet made me think I hadn't gotten the last post out...nevermind.

Put a set of points back into the distributor and see what happens. It's quick and simple with the petronix setup. Just one cylinder not firing points to a bad plug, wire or cap externally. I'm thinking a magnet has moved in the petronix setup. They're only held in place with that green tape.

http://forums.hybridz.org/index.php/topic/50023-fender-mirror-install/

Pomoco Nissan in Hampton, Virginia. It's at 1134 West Mercury Blvd just off I64. Registration is from 9 until noon. Awards at 4. Hope to see many of you there. Remember that this event supports the Food Bank of Southeastern Va. ezzzzzzz - VP TZCCVA

Pomoco Nissan in Hampton, Virginia. It's at 1134 West Mercury Blvd just off I64. Registration is from 9 until noon. Awards at 4. Hope to see many of you there. Remember that this event supports the Food Bank of Southeastern Va. ezzzzzzz - VP TZCCVA

That pipe aids getting warmed coolant to the thermostat. This keeps the engine from getting overly hot before the thermostat actually opens. You can bypass it or properly repair it. It does help with warming the SU's up quickly to improve atomization of fuel.

Look over at www.hybridz.org too. I installed a custom system using a Vintage Air Gen III, modified S30 fan housing, Honda fan motor, custom hoses, etc in my 71 240Z. It isn't perfect but it will hold it's own in the thick humid summer air of SE Virginia. It worked well for me at ZCON2010 last year in Nashville, Tenn. I would rate it a 7 or 8 on a 10 scale. I wouldn't drive my Z nearly as much in the summer without a/c. When ZCON2011 is done I plan to tear my car down for major paint work and will revisit the a/c plumbing inside to hopefully increase air flow/volume.

These two pieces reduce airborne oil from being sucked into the PCV system. One is a swatch of folded mesh wire and the other is the shield that limits oil being directly thrown into the mesh while keeping the mesh in a fixed position. Both can be installed even after the engine is completely built sans oil pan installation. On my SC'd LD28 petrol build I had to ping that shield outward to clear the L20b rod ends. Someone here should be able to provide these bits from a trashed engine.

Last weekend I went on a winery tour with fellow TZCCVA members out in the Charlottevsille area of Virginia. Anyway, it was an uneventful trip (except for the torrential rain and flooding caused by that awful cold front) until I was heading home. Running along at 75-80 on I64 I suddenly hit a rpm ceiling of about 4000. I couldn't accelerate over 60 mph. I pulled off the road to check for scary stuff like fuel leaks but saw nothing wrong. The remaining 100 mile trip home was met with power then no power back and forth until I got home. My immediate suspicions is the 25 y.o. Allison ignition is starting to heat fail so I ponied up for a Petronix 1761 and new 40611 3.0 40k volt coil. I'll try to get this installed this weekend. The real reason for posting this to let everyone know that www.streetsideauto.com has the best deal going for the Petronix kit. The igniter ($68.98) and coil ($32.99) were $101.97 shipped! If you're in the market for these parts you'll not find a better deal.

North Carolina (all except the Northeast Corner) Rick Marsh Phone: 704) 855-3699 E-mail: ECmarsh@i-van.org Web: www.i-van.org/marsh.htm North Carolina (Northeast Corner) Jeff Locke Phone: (757) 421-9028 E-Mail: jlocke@i-van.org Web: www.i-van.org/locke.htm

No L20's in the USA so it's definately a L28. I'm assuming you're in the USA since you've chosen not to identify that in your profile. The '79 5 speed will bolt right up to your L26 as the engines are dimensionally the same. The major differences lie in the bore and/or stroke between the L24 to L28. I've seen a L20 in a local shop (imported from japan) and it too shares the external dimensions of the L24 to L28.

The 240Z didn't come with 5 speeds in the USA. Some were converted early on using type-A 5 speeds out of roadsters (like my 71). Others have been converted using any of the later 5 speeds depending on gearing desires and availability. That said, you can convert your auto to a manual gearbox. You'll need the flywheel, clutch kit, clutch fluid hardline, clutch SC flex line, pedal box assembly (or the individual parts from the donor car) and a clutch MC. Any of the later boxes will drop into your 260Z. You may have to modify your driveshaft length (no big deal). There is plenty of information here and over at www.hybridz.org so do some searching and reading. No sense in flaming you for not doing the research to begin with but you'd already have your answer if you had done so.

Broke two rules this past weekend. Drove more miles than I normally put on the 240Z in a whole year AND drove through torrential rain and flooding in the Charlottesville area of Virginia. The club, TZCCA, had a winery trip planned. Six members showed up and a seventh appeared on Sunday. I clocked about 530 miles! The only mishap was my car started hitting a rpm wall coming home at 75 average speeds. Suddenly I couldn't get past 60 with the pedal floored. This would clear up then rear it's ugly head again and again. I nursed it home at posted speed limits. No apparent problems under the hood and no backfiring. The fuel filter looked full and clean. The tank was flushed, etched and sealed a few years back. I guess it could be the old RX-7 electric fuel pump starting to go too. I'm suspecting the +20 Allison ignition system so I ordered a new Petronix igniter and coil last night.

SeafireXV, everyone knows that these early cars came out of Japan with different parts installed regardless of the production date. I've got vertical defroster lines in the rear hatch but have seen others with the later horizonal in the same time frame. I have no way of verifying if my car left Japan with the fast idle lever but all the parts are there. I rarely use it as I typically just fire the car up and drive away immediately. Ksbeta, using that lever for cruise control is a very dangerous habit that could easily kill or maim you and others. There are situations such as a blowout or a deer that would preclude your getting to that lever all the while trying to stop and steer the car. That is the very reason this option was pulled from these cars early on.

The KA (240SX) conversion is not too costly. You need to have the L28 bellhousing machined (look over at hybridz.org for specifics) for about $100. It then bolts straight to the KA case. The only change is the driveshaft which will likely need shortening as I recall. I should know this since I built one for my 240Z but age and scotch tends to diminish memory (mine anyways).

nevermind...

I have a 11/70 build that I fitted with a late 5 speed and then a KA conversion. It had a type-A 5 speed when I acquired the car. The tunnel opening was never modified.

Not the way I DRIVE! HA! 5th gear will allow you to use a higher R&P for more spirited driving in 1 through 3 and still maintain comparable economy of a 4 speed. I run a 3.90 R&P and usually don't use 5th until I'm cruising around 60+. My trans is a KA with the L28 bellhousing conversion.

Just do a search on wheels here and read/look away. Try over at www.hybridz.org too. There are plenty of photos and advice. How good a wheel looks varies person to person. As far as 'popping out', spacers can be used to achieve this and/or wheels with a lot of offset. Be sure to consider the tires rubbing against the fender lips on hard compression and excessive bearing loads too.

Get a cheap set of used round tops, ship them off to Ztherapy, pay the difference, bolt on, tune, enjoy! It really is worth the money . I love a Weber carb BUT they are not typically bolt-on. Unless you have a few extra jets laying around and some working knowledge you'll be far better off with the SU's.

I've got an original setup in my 11/70 240Z. It does get a lot of attention from Z fans. This was eliminated early on because too many were using this as a 'cruise control'. Many that did found out the hard way that bad s**t happens fast when you forget to shove that lever forward in an emergency braking situation. For those not in the know this lever is a fast idle control. It allows the driver to ramp up the rpm's at idle so the fuel enrichment level (commonly misrepresented as a choke) can be disengaged. This allows the cold engine to warm up more quickly without running it excessively rich, fouling plugs, etc.

Sounds like you need to get the head(s) shaved. Warping is likely the culprit. I don't put faith in anything that seeks a leak and fills it. That same product also tends to clog heater cores and radiators IMHO.

Damn youth! HA! I was just shy of 12 when my 11/70 240Z was built and 16 when my 280Z left the plant. Nice 2+2 and welcome along for the ride.

It isn't ABS. It's Fiber Reinforced Plastic (FRP) although there actually isn't any plastic in it. It's actually some type of polymer base with fiber (appears to be fiberglass) embedded. When you replace the studs consider using brass or stainless instead of ferrous steel. Also use a standard nut, flat and lock washer along (preferably of the same material as the stud). with a bit of anti-seize. Nylocks used here could just cause another broken stud.