ezzzzzzz

For all of you racers, I've got a couple of R180 diffs from 85-86 720 4x4's for sale on Ebay. They have the 4.11:1 r&p, use the center bolt retained side flanges and are open. I haven't pulled a cover but I have been told that these have the four pin carrier which would make them a bit stronger(?). They are a direct bolt-in. If interested, search under seller, ezzzzzzz, or contact me here. I only got these for the CV style side flanges to convert my NISMO LSD R180 to eliminate the u-joints.

Somewhere in that thread, or a similiar one, someone mentioned using a Ford blower motor. No other info was provided as to year or model that I recall. The Honda motor is a known good swap. As for the 280Z, I've heard that was swapped into earlier Z's for more air flow but not compared to the Honda. That said, the Honda motor must swap into the 280Z too.

I'm guessing it never reaches the dollar figure the seller wants. It has been listed many times.

There are a number of threads on www.hybrids.org regarding this. Supposedly, it will fit with minimal metal removal so the cage wil slide into the Z box. Others say it can be fitted with a small amount of effort and no metal trimming. The effect is the same..much higher vent velocities. I picked one up at a pick and pay for $13.50. Mine came from a 88 Honda Civic. It took a little effort because the fan box is located behind the glove box. It took a screwdriver and a 10mm socket to get the heater motor out.

Remove your bolt retained side flanges and slide them right into this diff. It is identical to your diff. The weight is around 57-60 packaged. The original flanges were pulled for a CV conversion (doable but not a quick swap of parts as it requires custom made CV halfshafts).

Remove your bolt retained side flanges and slide them right into this diff. It is identical to your diff. The weight is around 57-60 packaged. The original flanges were pulled for a CV conversion (doable but not a quick swap of parts).

You shouldn't have too. There are numerous cars in other countries built for left or right hand drive. Contact AU's equivalent of our DOT and get it straight from the source. You can probaly find it out on the internet. Down in the Virgin Islands nearly every car/truck is lefthand drive but you drive on the lefthand side of the road! Go figure.....

The difference in p/n may elude to a ballast type and non-ballast type coil(?). If you run a full 12v to a ballast type coil (designed to operate in the 6-7 volt range) it will burn up in short time. I know this from firsthand experience. A call to tech support could clear up the question quickly.

I've got a few things listed on eBay including 3.54 and 4.11 differentials, 240SX rear brake calipers and other bits. Do a search under my seller name, ezzzzzzz.

I wouldn't do anything else. :laugh:

.335 is fine! A battery would last for days on end with that minimal draw. I don't know for sure about that fuse but in my 240z that is the right side headlight circuit. Maybe someone else can pipe in with the real info?

I don't see how you're experiencing vapor lock and boiling petrol. My thoughts are you have an unvented or partially unvented gas tank. When the problem occurs, immediately go to the back remove the gas cap. If you hear a sucking sound then there is your culprit. Or have someone remove the cap while you watch the fuel filter. I'd bet the problem clears almost immediately. The only other issues would be the flex fuel lines from tank to pump or a clogged pickup tube in the tank. Try driving around in conditions that cause the problem but with the gas cap loosened and see if the problem occurs.

The link is a wire that acts as a fuse. It will burn up and break the circuit before major meltdown and/or fires occur should a direct short happen the the wiring harness. It is not your problem. With everything turned off and key removed, lift the ground cable off the battery. Place an ammeter (a digital multimeter set to read <100 milliamps) between the ground cable and and the ground post of the battery. There should be mimimal amperage drawn (<60 milliamps). If you have more current draw than this, or you need to set the mulitmeter to a higher scale to read the current draw, then something is wrong. With the meter connected, pull one fuse at a time to until the current draw drops to <60 milliamps or at least very close to this. The fuse pulled that caused the drop is the culprit circuit. You'll need to investigate to determine what is causing the excess draw. I'm thinking that you're running an amp that is possibly hot-wired (not powered by stereo or ignition) that is causing the battery to drain. Straight shorts cause fuses to blow or melt the fusible link. I had a similar problem on my old land rover. It turned out to be the relay for the electric cooling fan. It would hang up but not turn on the fan motor killing the battery in mere hours. It took me two weeks to finally resolve that one. :lick:

I'm just letting folks know I've listed this dash on Ebay. Item number 4539206248. Several inquiries have been PM'd to me. This gives everyone a chance at it, if desired. It's not perfect but the opening price is right. NOTE: the photos show taken in 2000. That's incorrect. I took them on 3/27/05 but failed to correct the date on the digital camera.

I have two sets of covers. One set mounts flush with the scoop edge rubber edged aftermarket type). The latter (JDM chrome trim ring) mounts overlapping the scoop perimeter. Is this correct? Did the OEM covers mount this way? Does anyone have pictures of OEM chrome trim ring covers installed?

I agree with Carl. Your ECM is very durable and simple in it's design. It would take a major spike to cause any damage. As long as it is grounded you are ok.

Somewhere in the past, Datsun changed the balljoints (the earlier units no longer available?). This requires replacing the steering knuckles or taper reaming the early knuckles to accept the later balljoint. That said, can someone tell me when that transition took place? I have a rotten 73 240Z I'm gutting for parts. I hope the knuckles I need for my 71 (11/70) are on these piece of junk.

I'll try to check tonight. If it's good I'll pull it for ya. This car has the butterscotch interior but the belts were black. My fiancee is coming in tonight so I may be preoccupied (if you know what I mean).

Sorry, Dogma, the car is a complete bucket of rust and the pass side retractable belt assy is trashed 'caused the window was left down. I'm just picking and pulling anything of value. All of the glass is good including the hatch with the defroster intact. It does have one rare piece, a hitch assembly that bolts to the rear suspension bracket and bumper. Someone will want this I'm sure. One reason to get this car was for the steering knuckles. Somewhere along the Z way Datsun changed these for a different balljoint. I am hoping this is late enough to use the balljoints now available. Can anyone confirm? My 11/70 also has the 3-point fixed seat belts and no pockets for the retractable units. I got this car in hopes of getting those pockets to install in my Z but the pass side is rotted through. I had seen it written that Z's after 9/70 had these pockets but that isn't the case with mine, I also read that up to 12/70 all Z's had the fresh air vents in the hatch but mine are located in the roof supports. Sorry to get off on another tangent but it seems that concise info just isn't available.

I would love to do this to my L24. A single drive system is much more appealing in every way. Do any later L6 platforms use this drive that could be moved over to the L24?

I've done the search with no results. Somewhere in the past I saw a list of VIN's as they apply to production dates and models but can't locate it now. I picked up a 240Z(?) rust bucket for $50 to strip parts off I know it's a 240Z because of the L24 indicated on the plate under the hood. It also has retractable lap belts but fixed shoulder belts. The VIN is HLS30-155955. Could someone tell me more? Just curious...

Make your own grounding wires out of heavy gauge fine copper wire stock found at any car audio shop. Solder all lugs to eliminate corrosion. His stabilizer is probably nothing more than a noise reduction circuit (choke and capacitor) also found at the car audio store. Do you need this extra parts? Probably not unless you've got a ac whine in your stereo speakers (if you even have a radio installed). Head down to the store and see what they have. I use braided tinned copper to connect all of my major components (block, head, alternator and starter to chassis). You could due just as well by running 10 gauge wire from all components (including chassis/body) to the ground cable of the battery. The only mandate is a heavy ground cable for the starter.

Impossible without a mandrel bender. It is much too brittle and prone to kinking. Even heating it has no measurable positive results. That's been my experience working with s/s tubing and emission systems. May be it could be purchased already bent? I sorely miss the bead used to ensure the hose doesn't slip off too. These tools are available but aren't cheap.

I know this has come up in the past but thought I'd reiterate the correct info. According to Eibach, the front springs end with .001 and the rear with .202. The Eibach logo will be legible (not upside down) when installed. Eibachs number (not toll free) is 1-951-256-8300.

A proper paint job will cost $3000 and up depending on the amount of prep work. Keep in mind that it is the prep work that makes a paint job. The best paint and painter will not be able to cover up poor body work. Early Z's are not as prevalent as newer models. Newer models do offer more emenities though. Post some pictures so we can see this ride. One thing I can say for sure, if it is a reputable restoration shop, the end results will be stunning. Macco and like shops totally suck no matter the cost savings! One last thing, if you do go the $$$ route be sure to have all the other work (interior, chassis, etc.) done so you don't end up damaging that beautiful paint job!