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I've done the search with no results. Somewhere in the past I saw a list of VIN's as they apply to production dates and models but can't locate it now. I picked up a 240Z(?) rust bucket for $50 to strip parts off I know it's a 240Z because of the L24 indicated on the plate under the hood. It also has retractable lap belts but fixed shoulder belts. The VIN is HLS30-155955. Could someone tell me more? Just curious...

Make your own grounding wires out of heavy gauge fine copper wire stock found at any car audio shop. Solder all lugs to eliminate corrosion. His stabilizer is probably nothing more than a noise reduction circuit (choke and capacitor) also found at the car audio store. Do you need this extra parts? Probably not unless you've got a ac whine in your stereo speakers (if you even have a radio installed). Head down to the store and see what they have. I use braided tinned copper to connect all of my major components (block, head, alternator and starter to chassis). You could due just as well by running 10 gauge wire from all components (including chassis/body) to the ground cable of the battery. The only mandate is a heavy ground cable for the starter.

Impossible without a mandrel bender. It is much too brittle and prone to kinking. Even heating it has no measurable positive results. That's been my experience working with s/s tubing and emission systems. May be it could be purchased already bent? I sorely miss the bead used to ensure the hose doesn't slip off too. These tools are available but aren't cheap.

I know this has come up in the past but thought I'd reiterate the correct info. According to Eibach, the front springs end with .001 and the rear with .202. The Eibach logo will be legible (not upside down) when installed. Eibachs number (not toll free) is 1-951-256-8300.

A proper paint job will cost $3000 and up depending on the amount of prep work. Keep in mind that it is the prep work that makes a paint job. The best paint and painter will not be able to cover up poor body work. Early Z's are not as prevalent as newer models. Newer models do offer more emenities though. Post some pictures so we can see this ride. One thing I can say for sure, if it is a reputable restoration shop, the end results will be stunning. Macco and like shops totally suck no matter the cost savings! One last thing, if you do go the $$$ route be sure to have all the other work (interior, chassis, etc.) done so you don't end up damaging that beautiful paint job!

I'm very familiar with mechanical throttle controls since I have driven many early Land Rovers with such a mechanism. I was told it was a CC. Yes, safety is an issue and I would never consider using such a device in any situation but open road and minimal vehicles. Thanks for the insight though. Cremmanga, I would be interested in these pieces. Send me a PM.

Ahhhh... Live and learn....thanks!

My 71 240z has a level next to the choke for what would be a mechanical cruise control. Everything is there but the bracket at the gas pedal to hold the cable end. Has anyone any experience with this and/or does anyone have the mystery bracket I'm in need of?

Has anyone got thoughts on these, item 7961632663? I see they're over $300 with 2 hours to go. I was thinking that maybe a japanese product might fit better. Seeing that they're ss trimmed I figure they must be older when quality counted for more than it does now. I just bought some of the single screw covers for my 71 240Z and they don't fit properly (bulge out nearly 1/2" at the bottom). I'm very disappointed although the price was decent. I tried fitting them to a set of metal scoops too and the poor fit was the same. Guess I'll post them and hope to recoup some money.

It's coming... I've been in the Virgin Islands this past week. The weather was cold and raining when I left and got back. My Z doesn't see rain unless I'm caught completely by surprize. I'd like to lower it first but will provide before and after shots. The Eibachs and Illumias arrived while I was gone. I've decided to use rubber bushings during the swap for more compliance. Poly is excellent but transmits too much harshness for my personal needs. Back to the AR's though. Has anyone an idea what they're worth? You can see the AR's installed on my Z in my profile area.

I'm asking because I have a set of American Racing Libres (yes, they're the real item) with the spinner caps in what I'd consider excellent but not perfect condition for used wheels (no road rash, corrosion, pitting, etc). I mounted new Goodrich tires ($400). I used MM spacers and bolted on my 17x7 Racing Hart C2's and the 71 Z looks awesome. Anyhow, I haven't decided if I really want to part with these wheels but could use the money for other upgrades.

Sorry, go straight to www.alteredz.com and look for the write up. Ignore the language pack option if it pops up.

I haven't done my Z yet. On my old Land Rover I found that heating the parent metal with a torch then shoving dry ice into the sleeve caused it to seperate enough to drive it out without hack sawing anything. You have to work kinda fast though. I probably got lucky as this is a real pain in the arse typically. When putting stock repalcement bushings back in I would polish the hole really clean and use anti-seize on the bushing. That helped getting them in and aided getting them back out for polys later on.

I installed 17x7 Racing Hart C2's with 215/45R17 Wanli tires on my 71 240Z. These wheels are FWD and have an offset of about +40. These were originally on my 94 Honda Accord. Spacers (4x114.3 to 4x114.3) purchased from Ross at MM were used. These are about 32mm thick (?). He told me that the offset on my Z is actually about +10, not 0 and my request for 44mm spacers would push the tires out too far. He was right on the money with that statement. My tires are just inside the lip and under compression should clear the sheetmetal without a problem. I haven't lowered the car yet but just ordered Tokico Illumina's, Eibach Pro's and poly bushings to do that upgrade. If I get the drop I'm hoping for the gap will be about 2" at the top of the tires. Right now it is closer to 3.5" and looks okay but not agressive enough. I'll post pic when I get the opportunity. I'm leaving for St. Croix in the V.I. tomorrow morning for a week...gotta get away from the bitter cold and snow!

Actually, the thread decribing the CV conversion and how to install the axles was http://alteredz.com240ZCVHalfshaftConversion.htm

I believe you also need to unbolt the top of the strut and pull the whole assembly outward/downward to get the CV axles in. At least, that's what I've read on a Hybridz thread. I'll find out soon enough as I'm installing the CV-type side flanges from an '85 720 4x4 R180A (front diff) into my '71 R180 LSD. I believe the CV bolt patten is the same on the 280ZX as the 720 4x4. If so, I'll buy a set of companion stub axle flanges from MM to match. If not, I'll use a second set of CV side flanges to fab custom companion stub axle flanges. Finally, I'll use two sets of 720 inner CV's to build a custom set of axles. Sounds easy enough! :stupid:

I've never opened a R200/R180 clutch style LSD. From LSD experiences using other makes I think it might be low lube levels or the clutch pack has seen better days. Are you sure the noise is internal? It could be something jambed up in the suspension rubbing the rotational parts or brake problems. Just a thought....

Silver because of the wheel style. Just my opinion...

I don't have access to a CV half shaft so I can't decern this myself. I've done some searching just to look at a CV half shaft but figure someone out here can look at a shaft assembly in hand. Maybe someone else has thought of this? What I'm asking is can a CV half shaft be disassembled then reassembled using extra parts such that you end up with a bolt-on assembly at both ends? I was thinking that someone like Moser Engineering could fab the splined shaft to build a custom, if necessary. If this were possible then R180 diff flanges (bolt-on) could be made similar to the MM modified stub axle flanges. This would allow CV's to be run on early R180, longer and equal length shafts, etc.

After much thought I've decided to keep this diff. I appreciate the offers, well, some of the offers anyhow to purchase or trade. As I've read more and more it seems that the CV's aren't any stronger than U-joints as a norm. I'll try to locate some solid U-joints and hope for the best. I may look into having flanges machined that will take a Dana 60 U-joint (massive) instead of the CV conversion. If so, I could run CTMRacing solid U-joints (brutal).

I have the early NISMO diff (R180, LSD, 4.11 r&p, bolt-on flanges) in my 71 240Z (ex BRE modified car according to Rodger at ZBarn). It is in excellent condition. If I keep it I need to change out the flat mustache bar to move the diff back and install the other required pieces. I would consider swapping in a R200 for the CV axles but wonder if that would be a mistake. I regress... Anyhow, what would my apparently rare R180 be worth? I know the value would be directly proportional to a buyer creating A BRE copy or performing a BRE restoration.

I climbed under my Z at the body shop (they're making major headway working the metal back out to it's original shape without welding or cutting!). I was kinda hoping to see a later R180 that used the CV axles. It is an original LSD differential with the early style bolt-on flanges. The rearend still has the straight mustache bar too. I would consider swapping in a R200 LSD to use the CV axles but wonder what the cost might be. Anyone have an idea? Also, does anyone have an idea what my early NISMO diff is worth should I venture in that direction?

I have confirmed that my Z was indeed a BRE modified racer. Rodger at ZBarn knew the car and acquired BRE parts from it. The PO decided to restore the car and chose to remove pieces like the oil cooler. They were traded off for other needed parts with Rodger. Does anyone know a means to trace a VIN# to BRE? I'd love to have a bit of history on this vehicle.

Thanks! I'm learning more and more. I was thinking that the snap-in flange still had to bolt to the half-shaft. One day I'll have an understanding of what is actually in my 71 240Z that isn't standard production. So far I know the following... R180 LSD w/ 4.11 r&p, 5 speed (non-dogleg) tranny with the early style shifter that uses cone shaped rubber grommets, front and rear anti-sway bars with the rear bar in front of the differential, remote oil cooler (removed prior to purchase), etc. I'm heading to the bookstore tonight to peruse through later Z books in an attempt to note drivetrain differences, etc.