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I'm very familiar with mechanical throttle controls since I have driven many early Land Rovers with such a mechanism. I was told it was a CC. Yes, safety is an issue and I would never consider using such a device in any situation but open road and minimal vehicles. Thanks for the insight though. Cremmanga, I would be interested in these pieces. Send me a PM.

Ahhhh... Live and learn....thanks!

My 71 240z has a level next to the choke for what would be a mechanical cruise control. Everything is there but the bracket at the gas pedal to hold the cable end. Has anyone any experience with this and/or does anyone have the mystery bracket I'm in need of?

Has anyone got thoughts on these, item 7961632663? I see they're over $300 with 2 hours to go. I was thinking that maybe a japanese product might fit better. Seeing that they're ss trimmed I figure they must be older when quality counted for more than it does now. I just bought some of the single screw covers for my 71 240Z and they don't fit properly (bulge out nearly 1/2" at the bottom). I'm very disappointed although the price was decent. I tried fitting them to a set of metal scoops too and the poor fit was the same. Guess I'll post them and hope to recoup some money.

It's coming... I've been in the Virgin Islands this past week. The weather was cold and raining when I left and got back. My Z doesn't see rain unless I'm caught completely by surprize. I'd like to lower it first but will provide before and after shots. The Eibachs and Illumias arrived while I was gone. I've decided to use rubber bushings during the swap for more compliance. Poly is excellent but transmits too much harshness for my personal needs. Back to the AR's though. Has anyone an idea what they're worth? You can see the AR's installed on my Z in my profile area.

I'm asking because I have a set of American Racing Libres (yes, they're the real item) with the spinner caps in what I'd consider excellent but not perfect condition for used wheels (no road rash, corrosion, pitting, etc). I mounted new Goodrich tires ($400). I used MM spacers and bolted on my 17x7 Racing Hart C2's and the 71 Z looks awesome. Anyhow, I haven't decided if I really want to part with these wheels but could use the money for other upgrades.

Sorry, go straight to www.alteredz.com and look for the write up. Ignore the language pack option if it pops up.

I haven't done my Z yet. On my old Land Rover I found that heating the parent metal with a torch then shoving dry ice into the sleeve caused it to seperate enough to drive it out without hack sawing anything. You have to work kinda fast though. I probably got lucky as this is a real pain in the arse typically. When putting stock repalcement bushings back in I would polish the hole really clean and use anti-seize on the bushing. That helped getting them in and aided getting them back out for polys later on.

I installed 17x7 Racing Hart C2's with 215/45R17 Wanli tires on my 71 240Z. These wheels are FWD and have an offset of about +40. These were originally on my 94 Honda Accord. Spacers (4x114.3 to 4x114.3) purchased from Ross at MM were used. These are about 32mm thick (?). He told me that the offset on my Z is actually about +10, not 0 and my request for 44mm spacers would push the tires out too far. He was right on the money with that statement. My tires are just inside the lip and under compression should clear the sheetmetal without a problem. I haven't lowered the car yet but just ordered Tokico Illumina's, Eibach Pro's and poly bushings to do that upgrade. If I get the drop I'm hoping for the gap will be about 2" at the top of the tires. Right now it is closer to 3.5" and looks okay but not agressive enough. I'll post pic when I get the opportunity. I'm leaving for St. Croix in the V.I. tomorrow morning for a week...gotta get away from the bitter cold and snow!

Actually, the thread decribing the CV conversion and how to install the axles was http://alteredz.com240ZCVHalfshaftConversion.htm

I believe you also need to unbolt the top of the strut and pull the whole assembly outward/downward to get the CV axles in. At least, that's what I've read on a Hybridz thread. I'll find out soon enough as I'm installing the CV-type side flanges from an '85 720 4x4 R180A (front diff) into my '71 R180 LSD. I believe the CV bolt patten is the same on the 280ZX as the 720 4x4. If so, I'll buy a set of companion stub axle flanges from MM to match. If not, I'll use a second set of CV side flanges to fab custom companion stub axle flanges. Finally, I'll use two sets of 720 inner CV's to build a custom set of axles. Sounds easy enough! :stupid:

I've never opened a R200/R180 clutch style LSD. From LSD experiences using other makes I think it might be low lube levels or the clutch pack has seen better days. Are you sure the noise is internal? It could be something jambed up in the suspension rubbing the rotational parts or brake problems. Just a thought....

Silver because of the wheel style. Just my opinion...

I don't have access to a CV half shaft so I can't decern this myself. I've done some searching just to look at a CV half shaft but figure someone out here can look at a shaft assembly in hand. Maybe someone else has thought of this? What I'm asking is can a CV half shaft be disassembled then reassembled using extra parts such that you end up with a bolt-on assembly at both ends? I was thinking that someone like Moser Engineering could fab the splined shaft to build a custom, if necessary. If this were possible then R180 diff flanges (bolt-on) could be made similar to the MM modified stub axle flanges. This would allow CV's to be run on early R180, longer and equal length shafts, etc.

After much thought I've decided to keep this diff. I appreciate the offers, well, some of the offers anyhow to purchase or trade. As I've read more and more it seems that the CV's aren't any stronger than U-joints as a norm. I'll try to locate some solid U-joints and hope for the best. I may look into having flanges machined that will take a Dana 60 U-joint (massive) instead of the CV conversion. If so, I could run CTMRacing solid U-joints (brutal).

I have the early NISMO diff (R180, LSD, 4.11 r&p, bolt-on flanges) in my 71 240Z (ex BRE modified car according to Rodger at ZBarn). It is in excellent condition. If I keep it I need to change out the flat mustache bar to move the diff back and install the other required pieces. I would consider swapping in a R200 for the CV axles but wonder if that would be a mistake. I regress... Anyhow, what would my apparently rare R180 be worth? I know the value would be directly proportional to a buyer creating A BRE copy or performing a BRE restoration.

I climbed under my Z at the body shop (they're making major headway working the metal back out to it's original shape without welding or cutting!). I was kinda hoping to see a later R180 that used the CV axles. It is an original LSD differential with the early style bolt-on flanges. The rearend still has the straight mustache bar too. I would consider swapping in a R200 LSD to use the CV axles but wonder what the cost might be. Anyone have an idea? Also, does anyone have an idea what my early NISMO diff is worth should I venture in that direction?

I have confirmed that my Z was indeed a BRE modified racer. Rodger at ZBarn knew the car and acquired BRE parts from it. The PO decided to restore the car and chose to remove pieces like the oil cooler. They were traded off for other needed parts with Rodger. Does anyone know a means to trace a VIN# to BRE? I'd love to have a bit of history on this vehicle.

Thanks! I'm learning more and more. I was thinking that the snap-in flange still had to bolt to the half-shaft. One day I'll have an understanding of what is actually in my 71 240Z that isn't standard production. So far I know the following... R180 LSD w/ 4.11 r&p, 5 speed (non-dogleg) tranny with the early style shifter that uses cone shaped rubber grommets, front and rear anti-sway bars with the rear bar in front of the differential, remote oil cooler (removed prior to purchase), etc. I'm heading to the bookstore tonight to peruse through later Z books in an attempt to note drivetrain differences, etc.

That's interesting...I have a 71 (11/70) 240Z with sway bars mounted F&R. The rear bar is mounted in front of the differential, not behind it. I have a photo of the car when it was supposedly modified by BRE. That might explain the anti-sway bars, R180 LSD w/4.11 R&P, 5 speed gearbox (non-dogleg), etc. I'm still trying to learn what is original and what is modified.

I want to upgrade to CV halfshafts on my 71 240Z. The rearend is a R180 LSD with 4.11 r&p. From searching, I've concluded that diff must be from a later vehicle (possibly truck?) because such a carrier was unavailable in the early years(?). Can I determine whether the flanges (that go into the diff housing) are snap-in or bolt-in without any disassembly or is that the only method?

I'm doing the full disc conversion on my 71 Z and want to get to the right parts first time out. The front will be the 280ZX/300ZX combo and the rear will be MM kit with 240SX calipers. I live near East Coast Z Center and will pick up the 280ZX pieces there. Never been there before but going in the next day or two to check it out. Another question, is $100 for these front calipers and hangers a reasonable price?

I'm soooo tired of searching all of the Z sites without hard fast results. It seems that most questions get sidetracked with opinions or preferences and ultimately the original question never gets a viable answer. Okay, enuff of my ranting... I have a 71 240Z with a 4.10 limited slip R180. I've climbed under the car and looked as well as rotating tires and counting driveshaft rotations. It is in excellent condition and I have no interest in swapping it out for a R200. One of my outer U-joints is failing and I would like to convert to a CV setup, if possible. I cannot find a viable step-by-step procedure to do this if one even exist. If not, the other option will hopefully be to use HD U-joints like those produced by CTM should the size required be produced. They are very expensive and used almost exclusively by the competition rock crawlers. These U-joints do not have bearings but are sleeved instead. Bottom line, is there a doable CV swap that will allow me to keep my R180? Is so, could someone provide the vital information? Many thanks..

Was it worth it? Did the comfort quota go up dramatically? I will go this route to keep the stock seats or look for alternatives (Miata, Prelude, etc.) if the cost and trouble of the new foam isn't worth it.