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220 volt... cool!

2.5" twice pipes on a stock or mild engine would not flow very well. Velocity is an important part of scavaging/filling the cylinder. I'd likely stay in the 2" range maybe even 1.75" concidering that only three cylinders are feeding each pipe. Others will likely have their own opinions though.

I'd try to determine what the radiator is hanging on that is causing the flange to pull like that. Resolving that should get you additional 1/2" clearance at the bottom. If the engine moves over an inch you've got problems. These heavy plastic fans do not flex that much. In some of my old street cars and 4x4's I've actually installed limit straps to stop rotation (block to frame rail) and forward engine movement (transmission crossmember to block or transmission). The other big issue you're not dealing with is electrolysis. Bolting that aluminum radiator directly to the steel support will make it one big anode. In less time than you can imagine the radiator will be full of pin holes and leaking like a sieve. It has to be fully isolated using rubber/nylon/washers/tubing. Been there, done that, bought the new radiator too.

You can use the spindle pin puller to install the bushings assuming the threaded rod is long enough. You'll need to extend the threaded rod through the LCA and the bushing and use a few washers stacked along with a nut. The order of things should be spindle pin puller tube/threaded rod, large washer (that will let the bushing inner sleeve protrude through as it is installed), LCA, bushing, a few wide greased washers and a nut. This pulls the bushing into the LCA. You could alter the arrangement and push it in too. A vice, wrench, impact and extra hand would help. Clean up the LCA and apply a bit of anti-seize to aid you. I'd place the bushings in the freezer to get a little shrinkage too. I've managed to use a press but it's been a while so I can't recall how I did it.

The leak down test is best but you can try this too. Warm the engine up to temp. Do a compression test on each cylinder noting the readings. Squirt about a table spoon of heavy oil into one cylinder at a time and retest that cylinder compression. A significantly higher reading indicates worn rings. Minimal change usually indicates bad valve guides and seals. That said, you might go looking for another car in the $2000 price range. It would be easier to find a decent 280ZX in that range than an earlier Z. Keep yours for parts to sell, barter or use.

What Zforce said. You'll get full oil filtering with that one mod. It's covered in the 'Modify Your Nissan\Datsun' book. You need only keep up with oil and filter changes.

The other point of minimal silicone is the cap won't warp as badly when it heat cycles over several months showing every dab of adhesive. I've seen many caps that were really wavy from excessive silicone usage including the 75 280Z in my driveway (installed by the PO). Removing the speedo/tach from the back is a pain in the arse. I much prefer pulling them through the front.

Just replace the knob with a nylock nut and you're done. The alternative is buying a new knob from a Clarke supplier.

Jump over to hybridz.org for good info (requires self-motivated searches and lots of reading). Bottom line is the stock system is great but it won't work with major changes in displacement or cam specs. There are good (abeit expensive) alternatives. Cheapest is the megasquirt but it does require a lot of reading to understand and implement it. SDS is a great product. Dollar for dollar a pair of carbs will be about the same (excluding megasquirt) but you won't have the precision EFI offers. I love carbs but EFI is damn hard to beat which is why I prefer it in all applications. Even my 71 240Z is going SDS when the SC'd 2.8 stroker is completed and fitted in the next couple of months. If you insist on going carbs then talk to Bruce at ZTherapy. He can surely help you. The set of ZTherapy SU's on my 2.4 L6 are a dream to tune and very reliable.

http://www.classiczcars.com/forums/showthread.php?t=37452

It fits. There is a minor difference in the dash where a cross shaped on/off label would stick but otherwise it's a direct swap.

You can get an inertia switch out of any late model car in the salvage yard. $5 should get one. Most are found in the trunk area . Just remove it and cut a few inches of wire on the harness side of the plug. I use this and the oil pressure switch in my projects with electric fuel pumps.

If you're going to do this then provide him a list of brokers in your area (someone mentioned a broker already). Let him go through the whole process with the broker. You'll only be required to turn over the car, bill of sale and title to the shipper once the broker has made payment to you via the buyers financial institute. It takes all of the risk and hassle out of it for you. I've bought several vehicles overseas and had them shipped here. A broker is required to deal with the shipper, customs and other gov't agencies. I've always used a bank transfer without problems as a buyer.

I'll chime in if I may. All suggestions are good. It is a easier to have help but many of us don't have that luxury. I would drive the car until it was nearly empty before starting this job. Drain the rest using the plug in the bottom of the tank. Even a few gallons of gas is heavy and very awkward when it starts to slosh around. Clearance is a big issue. You should jack the vehicle up until you can get jack stands under front and rear. The alternative is to jack it high enough to get car ramps under all four tires (with the ramps facing forward). That will provide you with plenty of working room. Be sure to set the parking brake and test for stability! The later S30 is easier than a 240Z because there are less hoses. Don't forget the small feed and return hoses and the fuel level wiring. I think stock hoses are still available for a small fortune. I used marine fuel hose material for mine. Don't forget to replace the grommets where hoses enter in vehicle cabin.

I don't know Brian but would venture to say yes(?). If you're cutting up a shifter then any of them will work in the end.

You need to look at a wiring schematic (I'm downloading a 280Z manual from www.carfiche.com right now). Exactly how are you seeing the spark plug spark in the run position with the engine off??? Have you checked for spark while cranking over the engine? Do you even have fuel pressure? The ignition modules do go bad BUT a hit/miss symptom is usually heat related. If the car sat for a few hours and refused to start if could be loss of fuel pressure too. Do you have access to a spare ignition switch? The harness can be unplugged from the mechanical/switch on the column and plugged into another switch to test. Just use a flat screwdriver to rotate the switch to start/run. Have you tried putting the key into the run position and using a remote switch to turn over the starter? Note, the fuel pump dies when the engine shuts off even if the key is in the "run" position because there is no air flow thru the AFM to trigger the internal fuel pump switch. BUT when cranking the engine over enough air should be pulled in the turn that fuel pump switch "on".

I was in Denver a couple months ago and saw this place from the interstate. I'd like to get a set of bumpers redone and wondered if it would be cost justified to ship from Virginia. The local plater, Royal Silver, wants $1000 to chrome a set of clean straight bumpers! Ridiculous! Me thinks a set of Z bumpers and Range Rover bumpers are going to be shipped to Colorado soon.

I don't think there's enough material to do a helicoil, geezer. He needs to find a welding supply or industrial supply and get some lab metal. It is superior to JB by my measure. Clean the hole throughly, pack it good and tight with lab metal, when cured file smooth and then drill/tap. An alternative is locating another distributor but this is an easy fix.

Darrel, not on my 71 240Z. The early boxes are made of cardboard and must go in from the backside. Stupid design! There are at least three bolts/nuts holding the fan box to the firewall. There is also the control cable for the fresh air vent and the wiring for the fan motor. I vaguely recall screws holding the glovebox on either side of the opening too. All of this needs to be removed to get the glovebox in properly. It is a PITA! I haven't tried it but you made be able to replace it with a later plastic box that does slide in from the front with a little effort and/or mods. The simpliest things seem to be be the hardest sometimes. Good luck.

I looked at both the ads for Datsun headers. One is 70-76 and the other is 77-83. We know that the heads went from Square to round and then back to square again. Both headers look to be round port from the photos angle. I'd definately wait to hear back from them and even request a photo of the gasket side to be sure. The phone/sales techs are not likely familiar with the square vs round of the L6. I haven't investigated but why not buy from Blackdragon, MSA or other Z specific vendors to be sure you'll get what you need?

Anyone know anything about this car? http://richmond.craigslist.org/cto/2148566593.html

http://www.atlanticz.ca/zclub/techtips/shifterbushing/index.html I'll have to venture into the garage to pull a few levers to compare. I'm thinking that Walter has the right idea. I had a type A roadster 5 speed in my 71 240Z without any problem. Swapped it for a late 5-speed and then a KA conversion. I never had an issue with the shifter but probably chose the lever that brought knob back closer to me.

www.carfiche.com this is a good source for service manuals and parts microfiche. It's free but a small donation would be worthwhile. I have no affiliation. I too have a 71 240Z and a boat load of books and diagrams including the proper US spec wiring diagram. These vehicles are far from complicated. There's also www.zcar.com and www.hybridz.org for loads of infomation. Let us know if we can help.

That could be argued. The advantage of aluminum is larger tubes (less blockage potential) and light weight. Fragility and corrosion-prone works against it. I know all manufacturers are using aluminum/plastic radiators but primarily to reduce weight. Given 35 years of building cars and trucks and using both in a variety of applications I'd say a good ol' stock brass radiator serves its purpose well in most situations. If you're in the market for a new radiator because your old one is shot then go get the aluminum if it makes you happy. BTW, I've got a stock Camaro aluminum radiator in my LS1 powered '71 Land Rover trialer so I'm not against aluminum rads.

That block is the rear is not a proportioning valve. The proper name eludes me but it's there to hold residual pressure on the shoes so they stay in close proximity to the drum. Otherwise, the shoes would back well off under return spring pull and require pumping the peddle to get them back against the drum. I swapped in a 280Z booster in my 240Z and the 15/16 MC when I went to 280Z front calipers and 240SX rear calipers. I'm working on putting '90 300Z front and rear calipers in with a 5 lug conversion. Custom 19mm offset rear axles provide plenty of room for the internal parking brake. I hope the MC will provide adequate fluid for those new calipers.