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It can be done but you'll not have rear venting (hatch for the series 1 and upper quarter panels for series 2). Is there a particular reason for wanting to swap? I'd keep the original hatch no matter. Exhaust fumes are an issue but the problems are more prevalent in 40 year old Z's with no attention to all of the gaskets and grommets in the rear end (hatch, taillights, antenna drain hole, spare wheel well, fuel tank vent hoses).

Aluminum has a great bling factor. It isn't as good or as strong as a brass unit though IMHO. Besides quality control from new, there is also the galvanic issues. I went through two aluminum radiators in my custom 71 Land Rover before I realized it was being eaten as a giant anode. These must be fully isolated from the steel rad support using plastic/rubber bushings/tubes to prevent the galvanic reaction. If you need a good stock radiator I have one out of my 71 240Z. I replace it with a three core for a future L2.8 project. I also have some later 280Z radiators too. PM if interested.

I used Second Skin Pro Damplifier. Single layer throughout most of the car and double layers on larger flat areas. I covered that with 'Sludge" spray in the doors and rear quarter panels. The vinyl went on without much problem using a 3M spray adhesive. I added about 100 lbs of weight but the reduced road noise was well worth it.

Just another example of staggered wheels.

Sounds more like ignition to me. A tune up goes far to eleviate such issues. It could also be a sticking distributor too. As for the pooling, well, John is mostly right but I've seen fuel pool in the bottom of an intake when the engine was cold and the throttle was pressed too many times while starting. Especially an intake that dropped down like the conversion for a Datsun L6. I always recommend using coolant to warm the intake, if a provision is provided, on a daily driver.

SU's are not magical. Like any other carb once adjusted there is little or no reason for problems. You need to give details as to what is happening with your engine. As for the downdraft, it would work but depends on the carb and manifold arrangement. You'd probably be $$ and time ahead to work out the problems you're experiencing. A SU fitted and tuned L6 is a reliable and fun powerplant.

Interesting. I've got a set of NOS boxed tailight assemblies along with a bunch of other new parts. I paid a dear sum for these a few years ago. Even though it would undercut my sellability (if I ever considered that) a quality reproduction would be nice for the 240Z owners out there.

You can also buy from McMaster-Carr. You can only use short cap allens on the smaller bolts of the water pump or use hex heads. Standard cap heads will interfere with the water pump pulley. These bolts can only be purchased in specific lengths. Some will be too long and will need to be shortened slightly for clearance or visual appearance too. When measuring don't just stick a screwdriver into a blind hole and order the measured depth for two reasons. One is the hole is not fully threaded to that depth and you'll also need to consider the thickness of the ancillary/bracket being attached. That said, get the longer choice as it's easier to shorten than to lengthen. All bolts should extend at least 1.5 times it's diameter into the threaded hole when fitted up properly.

There's no magic length. Mine sits about even with the bumper and I have no fume problems. Good seals are the answer and that includes the drain plug in the spare tire well, the antenna drain tube hole, larger plugs in the bottom of the hatch and the fuel tank hose seals. I also have a BRE spoiler that maybe helps some(?). The vortex behind a S30 is horrible. I plan to apply some vortex tabs like those found on the Mitsu's to improve airflow down the hatch.

Grandpa always said tight is tight. Most fasteners on these cars can be run snug then given a little bit more pull. Obviously, if it's a head bolt, stub axle nut or other critical part you should use a torque wrench. Big arse bolts like on the inner rear LCA can be tightened with pure grunt and rechecked after a few miles. That said, get a torque wrench for each application (1/4", 3/8" and 1/2"). Always use a torque wrench that allows you to get the needed reading in the midrange (never at the extreme ends). Torque wrenches tend to be off at either end of the spectrum. You never mentioned what fasteners you were referring to.

Post details of your car and issues in a new thread. Describe how the car acts, if the problem is only when it's cold, hot, idling, accelerating or decelerating, constant, etc. Be prepared to do some troubleshooting. The FI is really quite simple. Just a few sensors. It's a process of elimination to fix problems. Folks here will bend over backwards to help if you're willing to help yourself. The Houston Z club has some great people in it too.

I've run Weber's on a variety of cars and trucks. If you've got FI your first approach should be to figure out what is wrong. The FI on a daily driver is hard to beat and these systems are really simple by comparison to the OBDII FI of today. If you're convinced you want to run carbs (and you don't already have a Weber kit on the shelf in the garage) then find a good SU setup on one of these Z forums. Heck, I've got a complete intake and filter housing (needs cleaning up) for SU's. You'd only need the carbs. Just one man's opinion.

You'll not want to hear this.... Why not pull the dash and have it professionally restored? You could pick up a bad one from someone here for a few dollars and get it restored then swap yours out in a weekend. It's not cheap but the end results is soooooo much better. The new materials are superior to the OEM vinyls. If the car is nice why skimp on such a prominent focal point? I'd say save your money and do it right but that's just me. Fastwoman mentioned a serious problem. The 280Z I just acquired has a full cover. It has warped and shows the swirls of the adhesive when looked at through the windshield. I plan to pull it and build a functional aluminum dash since it's already a track car by most definitions.

Got to wait for the snow to melt. Functional but not eye candy under the hood. Quite a few pieces that are chrome plated and needing attention. With the car dropped like it is there is difficulty in getting photos of the suspension. Interior is tidy but needs attention also. There's an overlay on the dash and the carpet is loose all over (lots of dynamat throughout the car). The worse offense in someone cut the door panels for speakers...damn it. I've got a new set of 240Z panels, pull straps and armrests in the house but really don't want to install them in this car. I did notice some rust bubbling in two spots (dime sized) at the base of the windshield. That will get prompt repair shortly.

You may be right, Jon. I always heard that turbo's needed rpms to get working where SC's liked tall gears since they build boost offline. As for the 3.54 vs the 3.90 you need to look at the transmissions. The T5 has a 3.50 first gear where the FS5 has a 3.062 first gear. 12.39 vs 11.93 combining first gear and the applicable diff ratio. The ZXT still has lower gearing offline (abeit only a wee bit).