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I think you can get these at any r/c model shop in a variety of styles.

Jump on that deal. You'll be happy with the results!

Regarding that work lamp, it won't drain the battery if the bulb is not working no matter the switch position. If there was a short in the lamp housing you'd blow a fuse. A simple way to discern a small drain is to connect a 12v light between the battery - terminal and the negative cable lead (lead has been lifted off the battery for this purpose). The ignition and lights MUST be in the off position! Also pull the interior lamp so it doesn't affect the test (it could be your problem as well). The light will glow faintly if there is any current draw. The brighter the light, the higher the drain. Now, pull one fuse at a time (replace it if nothing changes at the light). The light will dim or go completely out when you've found the suspect circuit. From there it's a matter tracing out the wiring to the problem. Clocks and radios (with memory) will draw a minimal current causing the light to glow slightly. A digital volt-ohm-meter can also be used to measure the current draw but I chose to offer the old school approach. Arne, I had an early type-A 5 speed in my 240Z for a few years. It was installed out in California at a shop focused on BRE/Interpart pieces back in the very early 70's. I believe it came out of a roadster originally. Anyway, it was a decent transmission (rebuilt a few years past) with great gearing but you could outshift it everytime in spirited driving. It used those infamous smooth steel syncro rings with little surface area to allow the gears to mesh smoothly on a hard shift. I finally swapped it out for a KA conversion. The new trans is smoother and quieter.

The halfshafts (axles) are merely siezed due to rust. Find a good piece of brass or aluminum bar stock about 1/2" or better in diameter and long enough to hold onto. Steel would work but it will mar the flange pretty good too. Use it and a BFH to wack the crap out of the axle flange at either end. A couple of good jolts should have it loose for removal.

One point I will make in regards to an aluminum radiator...isolate it! I mean use rubber and plastic sleeves on the bolts to completely isolate the aluminum from the rad support panel. If not, you are essentially adding a really big anode to your car. Over time (relatively short) that radiator will deteriorate to a sieve. It took two failed radiators in my land rover projects before I realized the problem.

For what it is worth, the backing plate is nothing but a dust/mud shield for the outer bearing. That bearing has a full seal to prevent the elements getting to get anyway. The shield isn't needed.

If it's not showing correct time more than twice a day it's dead. Seriously, you can open it up and give it a cleaning and lubrication. That brings most of these back to life. There are posts about this subject. Search.

Drill, hammer, burn out the rubber insert and inner metal tube. The outer steel shell is what is left behind (besides the actual mustache bar). The poly inserts go into those outer shells. Replacing the bushings with originsl pieces would require removal of those outer shells too.

It will work with your car. It doesn't have the proper appearance though. It is not a high output coil so you don't need to worry about burning up points too quickly. An AC Delco p/n U510 is also correct for this application and physically looks like the original.

All the info you want is over a www.hybridz.org for doing a LS1 swap. I don't understand where the 400-500hp came from though. Is that just a figure you came up with? The reality is there's no reason to have this kind of hp under the hood of a daily driver. It will not hold traction, the body will twist apart if not heavily reinforced with a cage, the driveline will eventually give out. There are cars putting down this kind of power but they're drag cars or miserable to drive on the street. Been there in my youthful days and it was short-lived fun. Just saying.......

I have a 71 240z R180 diff housing in excellent condition (cleaned and painted) but without side covers (they were mysteriously misplaced). It will include a 4:11 ring and pinion in excellent condition too (pinion is already installed). I have a two sets of 6 bolt output flanges and one set of stock 4 bolt flanges for a R180 diff. I also have an original NISMO CLSD for a R180. It is in need of a rebuild but all parts are available according to Tidewater Z. This R180 was removed from my Z for a rebuild but I wanted to change the r&p to a 3.90 so I opted for a R200 conversion (with a Quaife diff). After the fact, I would have been $$$ ahead to just rebuild the R180....oh well.

On my 240Z I run a Janspeed s/s header. The collector tubes (2" each) slide onto the end of the header. These come together midway down the transmission. The single collector tube then centers under the driveshaft. The exhaust opens up to 2.5" and immediately enters a 12" Magnaflow resonator (I hate glasspacks). The mandrel bent tubing continues out back to a Magnaflow straight-thru 14" muffler. It was so quiet that I actually placed a 7" sleeve inside the resonator trying to increase the exhaust tone. Only when I stand on the gas pedal does it really come alive. Sounds very much like a traditional european sports car.

The easiest way to remember the firing order is "15 is too young, 36 is too old, 24 is just right!"

I had this happen on my 240Z after I installed a stock plastic fan shroud. Slight misalignment caused the balde to contact the shroud. That blade was pulled outwards and hung up. I had no overheating issues and it never contacted the rad. It was discovered when I was checking the oil level. I replaced the fan & clutch and trimmed the shroud. No more problems.

Ball joints are inexpensive and easy to replace. I use TRW since they seem to last longer than other options.

Stick with the 3.54. It will be a good all-around ratio for a daily driver. A 3.7 or 3.9 would be more performance oriented with a loss in economy. Unless you plan on upgrading the engine I wouldn't persue that option IMHO.

I love lock wire. If it's good enough for aircraft and military weapons it's good enough for me too.

There are about three or four threads exposed on my lock pins. I don't have nuts on my pins (the nuts vibrated off). They have not come out after 3000 miles of driving and are not loose. Even if they did fall out it isn't a huge problem. The suspension isn't going to come apart. At worse, the spindle pin 'might' rotate slightly but that isn't very likely and has NO affect on anything. Like I said and Walter reiterated do not pound these in. Do not overtighten them. Distorting the spindle pin will cause huge headaches if you or another owner want to replace the bushings in the future. Lastly, use a good anti-sieze (copper-based) on the spindle pins after cleaning out the hole very well.

It doesn't matter when the car is rolling. The spindle pin is only the fulcrum for the strut housing and LCA. Once it's in place it doesn't move when the lock bolt(pin) is installed. The bushings at either end provide the rotation as the suspension compresses and extends. The spindle pin simply provides the connection between the housing and LCA via the bushes.

That's okay. It doesn't need to be flush. Again, it's only there to prevent the spindle pin from rotating. Nothing more, nothing less.

Many horror stories about spindle pins. One came out easily for me while the other required sawing and a 25 ton press! A lot of folks just live with old worn bushings rather than fight it. Once you've got the old pins out be sure to clean hole out with some scotchbrite, fine snadpaper or a small flapper wheel (my preference). Don't remove excess material but clean that hole good and shiny. Be sure to put a good anti-seize on the pin and in the hole prior to reassembly. That will make things much easier for you or the next owner years down the road.

Don't worry to much about it. If you can get a couple of threads showing that's all you need. The purpose of this bolt to prevent the spindle pin from rotating when tightening the nuts on either end. Once the nuts are snugged the bolt's job is over. Most people try to drive these bolts in way too tight. That only deforms the spindle pin making it's removal far more difficult for bushing replacement down the road.

Just wondering? Did Venus run off? Her shell looks empty in the background. There's nothing quite like a backyard paint job. My first painting experience was my 71 land rover using single stage PPG. I could only afford a pint or two of paint at a time. Every can was slightly off so each panel had a different tint. Still looked great in comparison to the original condition. 15 years later the paint is showing seriously it's age. Of course, it never saw a wax job either.

I installed a vintage air Compact (gotta love servos over cables) into my 240Z. It works fine but the center vent is severely restrictive by the OEM design. I hope to correct that somehow someday. Here are a few photos showing how I incorporated fresh air. The stock fan housing was modified and relocated 2.5" over. The vintage air fan was removed and the heater core piping was modified to clear the fan assembly.

Sarah, you should drop by Tidewater Z. Todd can put the car up on a lift and give it a good visual. The play you indicated in the halfshafts could be attributed directly to lash in the diff as well as u-joints/spline wear. Either way, you'll know for sure. Since everyone is confident there is no diff issues I'll just side with them for now. I had a lot of play in my axles which was all due to excessive wear in the diff. Plus I've never had a diff or tranny with 3/16 long metal shavings that didn't have some sort of wear issues. That's my story and I'm sticking to it.