ezzzzzzz

Is the cotter pin out? Is it broken off and not allowing the nut to turn? That nut shouldn't be that tight. An impact socket should fit. If you're stuck using a thin wall then use only a 6 point. You can also try a 7/8 socket. It's .875" while the 22mm equates to .866". Get hole of a ball joint separator. Using a hammer will likely cause more problems. Use only TRW ball joints. The rest won't last.

My guess is the nose of the diff is rising upon acceleration. That causes driveshaft contact with the e-brake bracket or tunnel. It could also be that the bolts holding the rear of the diff to the mustache bar are loose and the diff is literally rotating causing contact somewhere. Check to obvious (loose bolts) and then head over to hybridz.org for additional solutions to mounting the diff positively.

Give up the weed. It is a huge waste of time and money (and that doesn't compare to the short and long term $$$/implications if you get busted!). Back to the subject at hand. Slotting works fine. There are two different speedo gear housings that can be used. These have the slots in different locations allowing for different size speedo gears. I have several around the garage. I use one in my 240SX KA tranny installed in the 240Z. Now that I'm going to Revolution gauges I think I need to pick up another stock VSS to use.

I ordered one this afternoon and it should be here on Saturday coming out of New York state. There are 17 in country at the moment. My cost out the door from a local Nissan dealer will be $353 and some loose change. Thanks for the replies.

This is the stock hood part number for a 240Z & 260Z?

The pull strap including the chrome bits is available at Courtesy Parts in Tx. I have dealt with them quite often. Ask for David as he is the S30 guru. I believe I paid around $22 each for these straps. Part number is 80950-E4100 and labeled as a grip assy.

HLS30, it was a pleasure meeting you and your family when you stopped in Portsmouth. Hopefully, I can get your way and buy you lunch some day. As for this lever, I've got one in my 71. It will move beyond halfway and it will raise the rpm high enough to use as a makeshift cruise control though I'd NEVER consider that. I only use it to warm the engine on cold mornings so the plugs don't load too much using the fuel enrichment lever alone. As the engine warms up the rpm rises so I find myself slowly lowering that fast idle lever. It's so old school!

One way to center drill a broken bolt (assuming that some portion of the bolt is above the surface) is to make a simple jig. On a drill press or lathe, take a piece of 1" long round stock and drill a hole through to the half the diameter as the bolt shank. Drill a hole, the same diameter as the bolt shank, halfway through the smaller original hole. Slide this over the broken bolt. Drill through using the smaller hole and bit. This will center the hole in the bolt. Try a small easy-out or drill using a larger bit leaving only the threads. Use a tap to clean out the remaining bits.

Look under the car at the tailshaft of the transmission. If it has one flat 'ear' cast off to the drivers side it's a later 5 speed. If it has two 'ears', one on either side, it is an earlier 5 speed. There is an even earlier 5 speed (type A) but it isn't likely you have that. There are still other 5 speeds that might have been fitted (such as a BW T5) but this is also unlikely. It is also likely that you have the 225mm flywheel (240mm in the 2+2 models only). The only pertinent thing is the throwout bearing much be matched to the pressure plate. Buy all pieces at the same time and you'll be okay. There is so much info available but you'll have to use the search option. Try that here and over at classiczcars.com and hybridz.org.

I'm shamelessly promoting some items I have up on eBay. Search using my username 'ezzzzzzz'. Among other things there is a P90, E88, and Maxima N47 (MN47) head available.

Contact Todd Wagner at Tidewater Z Car Service in Poquoson Virginia. He probably has one and might part with it.

It is the 280Z splash pan. Readily identified by the large hole allowing access to the radiator drain plug. The 240Z pan does not have this provision.

The strut housing is stamped on the casting with a letter (A,B,C) The spacers are stamped with this also. They must match letter for letter regardless of which Z you have.

He won an auction from me for ONE L20B rod at $19.00 plus shipping. The ad stated this several times and allowed the winning bidder to buy up to SIX rods at a multiple of the winning bid. He wanted all SIX rods for $19.00 (that was less than I paid for each rod out of Australia). He got irate about how misleading my auction was and threatened bad feedback. I sent a copy of the ad with every notation of the details highlighted. I told him to walk away and I'd let it drop if he paid the insertion fee. He got more irate and said no deal. I finally said just go away and we'll act like it never happened. He couldn't believe it. This type of bullying must have netted him some good deals in the past. He suddenly made payment thru Paypal and I shipped his rod out. He is blocked from bidding on my auctions today. He isn't the only prick I've dealt with. Another bitched about a steering wheel I listed 'as is', rusty, needing painting, a cover and\or restoration. The ad photo said it all. The guy bought it for $9.99 plus $6.00 shipping. He said the ad was misleading and the wheel needed to be repaired...duh! To settle, I sent him his total investment AND return shipping. He kept the wheel and the ALL the money. He cleaned it up and relisted it for $69.00. All of his auctions state the item is 'RARE'! Anymore, I look at the bidders history to determine if I'll deny them. I blocked him from future auctions too. Also, to Walter, it sucks that you've had such little luck with eBay. I've bought and sold for years. There have only been a small number of bad deals. The parts I sell are all good. I try to describe them as accurately as possible and provide clear photos. Most are sold 'as is' but if a real crisis occurs I work with the buyer. If the parts are crap I dispose of them, not list them. Sometimes you can't make a buyer happy.

I have a nice roof panel in SE Virginia if someone local is looking. Shipping would be a real pain and $$$. Carl Beck made a good point on repairs to a unibody vehicle. The repair can be done but it requires cutting away external layers to reach the hidden interior metal. Once that has been welded the external patches can be fitted and welded in. It is time consuming to some minor degree. Quite frankly, I haven't seen many body men that can weld decent anyhow. They rely on bondo and filler/primer to cover things up.

Solid core with no windings produce a lot of RF energy. This can affect any electronic device such as your radio. They would serve no added benefit on a street car even if it were bare boned with no component that could suffer from the rf. In other words, any car that could be considered a street car from a drivability standpoint.

Not up to par with a nissan unit but it will work okay. They sell these at the cheaper auto parts like Advance on the east coast. Luckily, this is an easy part to replace if/when it starts to weep coolant. You've already got it so give it a go. New prices tend to run from $25 to $60 depending on manufacturer.

I fabbed a dash bracket for my 71. This lever is very sensitive and the cable end has a tendancy to hang on the pedal bracket causing higher that pulled-in idle if you hit the pedal. I rarely use it but leave in place as it is period correct. The only reason I can sumise for it's existance is to warm up the engine without loading the spark plugs with excessive fuel. My Z is well tuned and a cold natured bugger. It will stall at every stop (without fuel enrichment) until it has reached operating temps for several minutes. If you choice to make your fast idle circuit functional NEVER use it as a cruise control if you value your car or physical wellbeing.

Depending on where the car is parked you could choose from a lightweight cheapie to a full-blown $$$ one. Are you protecting it from weather outside or keeping dust off of it in a garage?

There are several suppliers of glass polishing kits. Eastwood has some great products too. I use one of theirs with the polishing wheel and powder. It works very effectively. The trick is following instructions precisely. You can screw up a good piece of glass rapidly.

I've got one installed in my 71. I rather like it as it does keep larger items from sliding forward and behind the seats in a sudden stop.

The bellhousing is worth keeping if anyone wants to build a 240SX KA transmission for the L6-engine.

Plenty of posts to this question back over at Zcar.com.

There are a variety of fuel pumps out there that would work. Many are very noisy though. I use a early 80's carbureted RX-7 pump. Quiet and puts out a solid 4 psi. It mounts in front of the fuel tank. There is probably wiring already in place for the pump. The fuse holder is located under the center console. Search for fuel pump wiring here and over at hybridz.org for more info.

I spent the better part of 4 hours at the local P-N-P yesterday. I looked at every Honda is the joint. These ranged from mid 80's up to 97 and covered Accords, Civics and Preludes (even a few Accuras too). Every Civic (91 and surrounding years) had some funky cast motor housing with four legs offset at odd angles. Only the Accords/Preludes/Accuras had the 3 bolt flat pattern desired. Of course, only the Civics had the smaller double flat shaft. I guess modifying the larger shaft is my only alternative. That's the wiper motor I pulled. Maybe there is a particular build date that the proper motor comes in? I'm not complaining but merely pointing out my personal experience. I'm only doing this for fun anyhow. My Z never sees rain but only the occasional bath.