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I'm still interested too!

I'll look this evening but I think I have two of these mounts in the garage. If so, I'll be glad to let one go for postage and any donations...HAHAHA.

One note if you use the lock washer and wish to remove the bolt. When turning the bolt out the lock washer will be grabbed by the serrations on the flange and turn with the bolt. That will gouge the mating surface even if only for a small amount. I'd use nothing or nylon washers for this.

You're much better off breaking the pin away and seating it in the rivet head prior to installation. Once in place you can gently tap the pin flush with the head.

I beg to question the running condition when you parked it? Timing nor anything else would change unless gnomes snuck into your garage during a drinking binge. Backfiring through the carbs is typically indicative of two things... lean conditions or timing issues. Are you running six year old gas??? What did you do to the vehicle prior to attempting to start it after six years? Fouling plugs indicate a very rich fuel condition or failing ignition. If you're sure the carbs are not fouled by old fuel (sticking fuel bowl jets, sunken fuel float, stuck nozzles, etc.) then I'd look at the ignition again. Replace the plugs! The start up adjustments for the SU's are one turn in on the idle screws and 2.5 turns out on the mixture nuts. That will definately get the car running. Adjust idle rpm using the idle screws and then use the mixture nuts to fine tune for highest rpm then finally readjusting the idle screws to obtain best smooth idle rpm. Only adjust the sync screw on the linkage between the carbs at higher rpm (around 2500-3000) to sync the carbs at cruising speed. That screw up above the balance tube is used to raise the rpm's for that part and then backed out so it doesn't touch the lever. You can use a unisyn of a piece of rubber hose to sync the carbs. Yes rubber hose... just take a longish piece and listen to the intake of each carb through the hose adjusting the screws until you cannot detect any difference in sound. You'll be surprised how close you'll be when done if you were to test it with a unisyn afterwards.

That pin is barely held to the head by a skin thin bond. It is broken off and then pushed into the rivet head. It is a viable means of producing the rivet and pin in one step. I suspect that Nissan rivet are produced this way and then separated for packing.

There is no frame persay as it is unibody constructed. The only possible explaination is the tc rods or mounts are damaged (maybe someone rebuilt and put tc bushings in incorrectly???). Struts installed backwards? Are the front calipers in front or back of the strut tube? I'm just throwing out wild arse guesses here.. What wheels are you using (possible offset problems)? Can you provide some pictures of the problem? How about with a wheel pulled too?

There is a sticky dedicated to brake conversion at www.hybridz.org. Look under the brakes section (duh). You'll find plenty of info there.

Thanks, Steve.

I've installed my Ztherapy SU's and have a question about the choke cable attachment. Yes, I've viewed most of the video (doesn't show that angle shot), read through three books on SU's (including the FSM), and searched prior posts. My thoughts are to lift the choke levers up until the levers just contact the throttle shaft and tighten the cables. This is how it was done prior but I don't know that it's correct. The other option is to leave the levers full down, cut some cable sheathing to expose more cable, and attach to the levers in the full down position. Any input? Thanks...

The S is a speed rating up to 112 mph. http://www.tireguides.com/tip2.html

Good luck sourcing such an item. I'm sure they're out there but probably not in production today. Most people fab their own from sheet aluminum or stainless. You might try using cardboard as a template then having a local sheel metal shop make one from that pattern. Maybe someone else has a better idea...

If it is merely a three-way metric connector then you can find these on nearly every asian car in the local junkyards. I used one off a Toyota Tercel for my disc brake upgrade to tie the front calipers into a 280ZX proportioning valve.

There are hundreds of posts on this subject. Everyone has their own opinion. On a stock setup you're well off locating a stock manifold and installing 2 1/4" exhaust out to the back. Some use a resonator and turbo muffler. Others use a single straight-through muffler (Flowmaster, Magnaflow, etc.). With a cheap turbo muffler you can swap it out easily if you don't like the sound. You'll spend less money this way. A header won't provide much for you with a bone stock engine except for the coolness look. Do some more searching or look through recent posts. You'll find loads of info.

Sounds like you lost ignition. Check for the obvious such as a poor ground or loose/broken lead(s). I'll bet you find you shorted something out or disconnected. Hard braking and downshifting isn't going to blow your engine.

If you are inclined, I'd love to get a plug of that hood vent to reproduce them. I'll more than cover you $$ wise so you know you'll get it back. Otherwise, if there is someone in your local area that does fiberglass work investigate the cost of producing the plug and additional hood vents. I'll go in with $$ to get one of these. PM me if you're interested.

That's exactly what I need!

I've looked around but can't find this. Does anyone know where to get the SU air filter housing gasket for my 240Z? This is the one on the perimeter that seals the housng to the cover. I'm having the housing powder coated and the original gasket is hardened beyond reuse. What else might any of you be using here that works and holds up to the harsh enviroment?

I've rolled up next to late model Land Rover/Range Rover owners and the typical response is nothing or "nice jeep". For Christ sake, it is pathetic when someone ignores or is just plain ignorant of the history of their vehicles. It seems to prevail in the upper class. It's the same for the 240Z too, especially from the 350Z drivers. The other side of this is I'm 47 and most people don't even know what the hell I'm driving because of their youth!

I had a MSA setup but opted to go stainless all the way out the back. I ended up using a Janspeed header, Verocious Motorsports pipe and Magnaflow mufflers to build the system. I'm waiting on my Ztherapy SU's to arrive this week but I must say the exhaust has a deep growl with no raspiness (at least sitting in the driveway) using triple Dellorto's or the old SU's. My exhaust is tucked very nicely although the resonator does hang just a little low. It should not pose a problem though, even over speed bumps. My muffler is exposed from the side profile but not obnoxiously so. It could have been tucked up tighter however I felt the heat generated would be more readily transmitted to the interior that way. You can see pics viewing post #17 and #18 at the following forum, http://forums.hybridz.org/showthread.php?t=103301. Although this is not MSA related persay you can see that a proper exhaust can be installed in your garage. I have no reason to think that the MSA system couldn't be massaged to fit better too.

You should have no problem locating a set of these in your area or across the border in Canada. Look through the Z forum classifieds for cars being parted and post in the other Z forums too. I think I have a set in the garage too. So you can be sure of getting a pair no matter what.

If you're refering to the front fenders then those are stock. What you are seeing is the G-nose which extends the front area beyond the sugar scoop seam. G-noses do come up for sale often enough. The headlight covers for same can be more difficult to find except in Japan from the posts I've read.

To check for interference in the head/cylinder remove the head and place a thin layer of modeling clay across the surface of a couple of pistons that are rising and near the top of the stroke. Replace the head and torque down. Rotate the crank until you meet resistance and pull the head again. You will see impression in the clay where any interference exist. If you suspect the valve is hitting the cylinder wall a bit of machinist's bluing applyed to the valve will leave a mark where it contacts the lip of the cylinder. Checking the mechanical timing as recommended too.

There is a ground for the rear lights. It is found in the rear righthand side about six inches in from the taillamp near the fuel filler tube. I beleive it is located underneath but could be behind the side fascia cover. I'll look tomorrow. The sender and electric fuel pump circuits rely on a good ground too. It should be the same ground mentioned. There are also grounds in other locations. A good ground from battery to engine block and chassis is the first essential connection. Look at the applicable wiring diagram and you'll see these grounds

Sadly, yes. Spray paint would be the only choice for those of you with alternative colors.