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HLS30-39939 L24-045519 11/70 Manual Silver Presently painted '73 Corvette Red (Mille Miglia) Black interior Excellent condition Soon to be daily driver Dellorto triples JanSpeed SS header Custom SS exhaust (Magnaflow resonator and muffler) Nismo LSD w/4.10:1 r&p Custom Porsche 930 CV axles and adapters Type A 5-speed Interpart/BRE anti-sway bars Tokico Illumina struts Eibach Pro-Kit lowering springs 280ZX front calipers/300ZX rotors 240SX rear calipers/300ZX rotors 280ZX MC/proportioning valve RH C2 17"x8" wheels MM 28mm spacers Wanli 215/45ZR17 R-1099 More on the horizon Portsmouth, Virginia

For those interested, I've located a decent replacement for the black interior retainers (rivets). These are nearly identical to OEM with the following differences. The finish is satin instead of shiny and the head is about 1-2mm smaller in diameter. Unless you're stuck on originality or doing a concours restoration these should make you very happy. I can provide them at .35 cents apiece. Aftermarket is on the left and original on the right.The photos are the best I could do with my camera.

Thanks, sblake01. There are many non-period correct Z cars out there. My personal opinion is if the car is truly genuine or concours then leave it as it was intended to be. Otherwise, come into the present. Many have chosen to update their vehicles with performance, safety or visual improvements. Poly didn't exist back then but a lot of people here install it. The list of changes is long. Would you be content to live with that stock radio today? It isn't about throwing stones at each other here (at least, I hope not). I've learned a heck of a lot in these forums. I was merely pointing out a viable means to an end and trying to justify it. As for my circuit, it really doesn't get much easier than mounting two small relays and running a few wires to readily accessible circuits.

I was only trying to have some fun. Read on as there is reason in my madness. My circuit does not rely on the ignition for a ground source. It really isn't that difficult. A simple buzzer can be found at Radio Shack. They probably have a chime as well. In your desired version one buzzer lead goes to a terminal that is feeding 12v to the side or dash lights (these are the last to go when turning off your lights). The other lead goes to an ignition source. When the ignition is off but the lights are on the buzzer/chime uses the ignition load(s) as it's ground source (abet it is not a straight ground). In this scenario the ignition circuit is drawing all required current through the buzzer/chime too. It may be enough to cook the little bugger it heavier loads (i.e. electric fan) aren't load relayed and should kick in. Otherwise, that simple circuit should work in nearly every application. My old Land Rover has seperate switches for internal/parking lights and the headlights. A bit more creative approach would needed in such a case.

Basically this system operate on the following principle. When the ignition switch is activate, the internal coil of relay #2 is energized and no current reaches the buzzer so no sound is heard regardless of headlight positon. When the headlights are on, the internal coil of relay #1 is energized and battery current is passed through relay #1 to relay #2. If the key is off then current flows through relay #2 to sounds the buzzer. If the key is on then relay #2 is energized and no current reaches the buzzer. Use of a chime will be more appealing. It's as simply as that! List of Materials: a) 2-bosch relays single pole doube throw (SPDT) 12 volt buzzer or chime c) Solderless teminals d) Electrical wire e) Board to install components

All of this is interesting. I've been with eBay for quite some time too. I have only been ripped off twice for a total of about $125.00. It doesn't feel good either. As many have noted feedback is an important tool. If you feel the need to leave negative feedback you can wait until the eleventh hour. This allows you to post bad feedback but rarely enough time for the seller/buyer to respond in like to your feedback. Anything of real value/cost should be investigated throughly. I bought a set of Currie HP9 axles for $5000 from a business in Florida. Before I bid I made absolutely sure the business actually existed and asked enough questions to be comfortable in bidding. If the seller gives vague or no answers, the item is selling well below it's value, or other info just doesn't add up then walk away. Sometimes that's the hardest thing to do but the wisest also. There are always exceptions like a seller posting an item in an odd location or slack descriptions that reduce search results. I was looking at a supercharger where the seller listed his location as Wisconsin but his E-mails were traced to Europe. He had no sells or feedback. He would never give a straight answer to my questions. The only people bidding were eBay newbies. EBay uses only one recommended escrow service. It requires a small fee (based on selling price) to transfer monies after the buyer has accepted an item. If the seller is unwilling to use this escrow service then walk away. Make sure you ask before bidding about the seller's willingness to do so. This is an important tool when spending BIG money. Lastly, sniping is the best way to bid IMHO. It allows you time to make an educated guess at the value of an item and how much you are willing to pay. Set your max bid and walk away. If you win great, if not, oh well. It is easy to get caught up in the frenzy at an auction's end and bid more than an item is actually worth. That said, let me point out that you should research to be sure the item you're looking at is not available elsewhere for equal or LESS money. Often you can buy from an eBay store or other source for less than the auction's opening bid. :stupid:

I'm adding some more pictures of the axles being installed. Ignore the surface rust on the adapters. That will be treated and painted a bit later. In order to use the forward mount anti sway bar I had to shorten the links and modify the chassis brackets to move the bar forward about .5". It is as close as it will get in these pictures with the car on jack stands and the suspension in full droop.

My reasoning was it creates a stronger assemble than the tulip style CV. The 930 CV also provides 23 degrees of articulation. I can swap these over to a R200 diff easily if/when I blow my diff. The cost of axles is about $215 for the swap. The trouble and cost for a R200 conversion negates any cost savings for me using the MM adapters at this time. New replacement 930 CV's are $55 each and readily available. The only new(?) 300ZXT axles I've located as a replacement are $100 each from Blackdragon. These are rebuilt and require a good core. I can't find a listing for an axle at Courtesy and figure that part is NLA from Nissan. I am planning on building a blown stroker (parts on hand) down the road or possibly dropping my LS1 in one day. Above all, it is the challenge to try something different.

More pictures....

Well, it's been months but I've finally answered my own question. BlueOvalZ over at hybridz had made a set similar to my design. They are going into my 240Z. I swapped the bolt-in R180A differential side flanges found in the early 80's 4x4 truck into my Nismo LSD R180. These flanges use the 6 bolt tulip-style CV joint. Along with those flanges I designed adapters allowing the use of Porsche 930 CV joints. They are 108mm x 40mm and rated at roughly 600hp. A set of EMPI axles were shortened and re-grooved and my adapters were also machined by a local shop that produces a number of special pieces for me and a good friend. The hardest parts to acquire were the boot flanges but I found them on a set of '78 Porsche axles. Said and done, I have a bit over $800 invested. More than anything it was a challenge to make these. Heck, it's only money...right? More pictures coming...

The RX-7 pump is excellent. They run quiet as a church mouse and provide all the fuel needed in a typical carb'd L6. I run one on my 240Z and the other on my Onan 6.5k generator. The aftermarket units will definately require a regulator and most are noisy as hell (personal experience speaking).

Hey, you get to celebrate your first father's day!!!!!!!!!!!

I'm heading up to NY and PA next weekend to pick up some Land Rover parts. The seller responded to my eBay question about dropping by to see what he has to offer. Since I'll have an empty truck and trailer I might find some pieces worth picking up. From the looks of the ads it may be a total waste of time... we'll see. Sometimes you find a diamond in the rough. I think he probably wants top dollar for everything since he is really running a Porsche operation. If you think Z parts are high then NEVER own a Porsche.

Sounds resonable as those hoses are very tight. I played with an injector setup when selling an complete intake. I was trying to make a more compact package to ship. The hoses wouldn't come off for me so I found a bigger box. Anyhow, the soldering iron method should work fine using a small tip unit. You could also use an exacto craft knife and a BIC lighter too. The idea is not to score the injector so a high pressure leak doesn't occur later.

In the rear I believe the ground is through the fuel tank sending unit. There is a ground that goes to the tank through a grommet behind the right rear taillight panel (on my 240Z anyhow). If the ground is not available or is not perfect then the taillights will ground through another bulb filiment. That would possibly account for the dim lights.

Basically a long block is comprised of both block and head. A short block is just the block. Ancillaries may or may not be there depending upon the seller. Typically, you'll need to move your brackets and accessories over to the long block.

Sounds crazy and it is. I don't drive my toys too often and rust is a killer on a parked car's exhaust. We are talking about a complete stainless system though. Besides the $400 header the other cost were $275 for tubing, coupling, expander and O2 bung. Another $150 for the Magnaflow pieces plus shipping charges. At least, I'm saving money by cutting and welding myself. In the end it is an exhaust that is easily removed for services and a life expectancy over tens times that of mild steel! It almost sounds like a deal when you look at it from that angle.

I don't have shop manual here at work and haven't dived into a datsun tranny yet. This is based on past experience when working on other manual boxes. There is usually a spring and detent ball for each shift rail. These keep the tranny in the selected gear as well as preventing another unused gear from accidentally vibrating into engagement. You might look into replacing these simple items assuming that the tranny shifts properly otherwise.

Magnaflow and XLerator are made by the same company. It is the same muffler. The XLerator is slightly less in quality while the prices are comparable. This info comes from my local custom muffler shop. He'll order whatever you want and build the exhaust one-off. I have opted for a s/s Magnaflow 14" resonator and 14" straight-through muffler for my 240Z. I'm building my system out of mandrel bent 2.5" 304L throughout. The header is a old school s/s JanSpeed 6-2-1 2" collector flared to 2.5". All of the piping and clamps were purchased at www.verociousmotorsports.com. I have close to $900 in this when completed! Crap, that's lots of $$$. It should last 10 times longer than a mild steel system.

What you spend in metal replacement will be about the same as labor for bodywork. It's not pretty but it isn't horrible either most of that can be worked out with effort. Just my two cents worth.

Thanks Will. I thought I'd read that these brackets had become very elusive.

Go with the MM brackets and E-brake extensions. Pick up rotors and calipers (if only for cores) at the PNP. You'll also need brake lines. There are extension write-ups regarding this over at www.hybridz.org under the brakes/wheels/suspensions/chassis section. The very first sticky will be a big help to you. The Maxima brackets are NLA as far as I know. If you can find a set you'll be very lucky and still spend $$. You'll end up spending that $500 and maybe more/less. It depends on how creative you are and the quality of the junkyard parts.

I read more posts than I cared to. Exhaust tones are very subjective. I like the deep throaty sound but hate the tooth loosening drones. Most straight piped mufflers are suited only for the young or track. Without installing acoustic materials in our old Z's they all reverberate like soup cans with tires. As a daily driver, I lean towards compromise between comfort and performance. Most people want that too only it takes a bit of experience to understand it. That is why many of us have installed open exhaust only to be disappointed if not down right frustrated at the end results and swapped it out looking for our ideal sound. To the point, I had a Tanabe Medallion installed in a 94 Accord. The sound was rich and deep. It had none of the shrill chainsaw rasp typical of most ricer mufflers. The interior noise did increase but the droning was tolerable. I've seen that a few late model Z's have a Tanabe exhaust installed and the owners seem happy. Has anyone knowledge of a S30 owner running a Tanabe setup? I actually believe it would be fine muffler for the L6 in any displacement. The downside is the cost to find out! I'll have about seven hundred in mine before the muffler is purchased! Crazy as it sounds it isn't hard to get there. Here's my roster... Janspeed 3-2-1 stainless steel header (old school from the UK and it is a piece of artwork) with 2" collector, 2" to 2.5" 304 S/S expander cone, 2.5" 304 S/S V-clamp flange kit and 2.5" 304 S/S mandrel-bent custom fitted piping. No muffler as of yet... but considering a Tuner Hyper Medallion with removable baffle (when I want that extra rummmpppfff). All parts except the headers were purchased from Verocious Motorsports in DE. I looked at plenty of S/S component suppliers and VM was consistantly less expensive.

I have three electronic dizzys. One is for the 280zx turbo and is optical. The other two are NA versions. One has the E12-92 module with the additional contacts off the side. The last has what appears to be a aftermarket module with no identifiers. It does not have the additional contacts on the side though. My question is how many modules are there for these L6 engines? Is it correct in assuming the unmarked modules is the desired e12-80? Is upgrading my present 240Z dizzy (with the Allison XR-700 system) worth it or am I wasting time? There is no interest in going much beyond this as I hope to build a stroker in the near future and use my SDS to control ignition and fuel.

I pull hardware from later model cars at the salvage yard. You can usually find a good assortment to meet your needs and match the original hardware closely if not dead on.