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The junkyards/pick-n-pulls often have two or three S30 and S31 in them. There is one or two at the Va. Beach PNBP right now. Anything from 70 to 83 will work. If you're interested, a friend has a long block (no ancillaries/intake/etc) N47/N42 L6 he'll let go for $75.00. It was a good running engine when pulled. He's trying to clear out the garage of excess parts/pieces. You need only drive up a short distance and get it. PM me if you'd like to do so.

I pulled a set of these wheels from a 72 240Z parts car. A web search turned up nothing. Anyone ever seen these before? They're made in Japan by Texas, named Bridgestone, and are marked 6-JJx14 15. That makes them 14x6 with a 15 mm offset the best I can figure. The center hole is 3". I think the first 300ZX center caps will snap right in. These weigh 14.5 lbs a piece. They remind me of Crager Thrust wheels. The five spoke is a nice touch. There is minor curb rash. It could be repaired or just polished to clean it up. I have no use for them as I'm converting to 5 lug wheels. So, what does anyone think they might be worth on the open market?

As a side note, the brass block is a check valve to hold about 10 lbs of line pressure on the rear brake cylinders. This keeps the shoes from backing off the drum too far which would require pumping the brakes to get proper contact again. This valve is gutted in rear disc brake conversions. If it gets damaged you can buy these inline check valves from one of the brake kits marketers on the web to make the repair.

I recently drove by a 240Z for sale on the side of road. The sale sign didn't state a price. From a couple hundred feet it looked darn nice. Upon closer inspection I couldn't help but snicker. It was held together by the wizz poor paint job. Rust was prevalent. The floor boards were falling out. The hood wouldn't open because it was jamming against the dented up bumper. The interior was totally shot. At best, this was a parts car or good for a demolition derby. I was willing to offer up $400-$500 tops. No one answered the door at the house so I called the number listed. The guy answering said the car had just sold on eBay. I asked the selling price and he said it was $3650! I literally laughed out loud and said "Boy, is that fella gonna be pissed when he sees this. I'm glad I'm not you." He just hung up. I also bought my 240Z off eBay two states away. I paid a dear price (negotiated a buy-it-now) for it but based on what I've seen the value is definately there. Luckily, a friend is a professor at Tennessee State and he drove over to check the car out prior to spending the money. My only regret is the paint job was not as good as it could have been. That can be resolved. It is 'buyer beware' on eBay...no doubt.

It's not an LD28 . That also has the 6 bolt pattern with a dowel added. I thought there was a OS Giken crankshaft with this 8 bolt pattern in the early days.

Clogs will stop the flow of media. I will place my gloved hand tightly against the nozzle and pull the trigger. This forces backpressure to clear the phos and pickup tube. Maybe that will help.

I installed 2000 Suzuki Aerio sidemarkers in place of the buldging stock ones. These are lightly curved with no chrome trim and fit tight to the body. It gives the overall look a more modern appeal. The big plus is you don't have to drill holes or cut sheetmetal.

I build these transmissions for buyers out there. Cost to do a good rebuild is dependent upon orginal condition. I replace bearings, baulk rings, and seals by default. To put it in perpective a used tranny sells for about $100-$150 in the pick-n-pulls (other yards charge much more), a rebuild kit with syncros goes for about $250 so there's $350 in initial cost. Assuming that no gears need to be replaced then only labor need be added. My rates are $65 an hour (wouldn't know about commerical shop rates). Breakdown, cleaning and reassembly involve about 4 hours. That's $260 plus $350 for a total of $610. Did you want the case aluminum oxide blasted, power washed, and painted? That's another 3 hours of labor ($195) for a grand total of $705.00. Additional gears add to that figure. I'm building a 240SX 5 speed for my 240Z. The trans was $100 (very good deal), the L6 bellhousing machining was $150 (free bellhousing I had on hand), the rebuild kit retails for about $300, and then there's my free labor. That's $550 without a labor charge. I will be building another 240SX transmission for sale. Contact for details if interested.

I'd check to PO. It wouldn't be the first time a ride was sold and promptly stolen back. I've seen the local audio shops install alarms and then 'recover' the vehicle with an extra remote they failed to mention or give to the owner.

Not worth the effort or cost involved. Do a search on the 240SX transmission swap over at Hybridz.org. It is a very nice upgrade.

He's asking $500 each too! These are in deplorable condition. I just don't see the value.

In SE Va you can cover the vehicle and NOT tagged, inspected or insured as long as you want. It must be on private property not beyond the front of the house or building (but I seen otherwise), not public roadway or easements. It must be able to run and move on it's on but that doesn't mean roadworthy. I would refer to state law which the local yocals usually refer to directly in their city ordinances (been there and read the codes). I've had a Land Rover (no engine!)covered for several months after getting busted by the zoning inspector's office and threatened with big fines for a variety of cars and parts scattered uncovered (my bad....). They dropped by to see everything cleared by the drop dead date and disappeared never to be heard from again. Maybe you could locate the car in a storage unit for a brief time and then break it back out (using a cover) after time has passed and the city jerks have found other criminals to pursue. That's what I'd do if the car was worth it to me.

Change it into a G37.

Funny, the PO of my 240Z had turned this around. I upgraded to vented disc, solid disc, 280Z booster and 15/16 MC. The braking improved but was still giving a hard pedal. I drove a friend's 280Z (the only other Z I've ever driven) and his brakes were great. He mentioned the check valve. I checked it out, found it installed backwards, installed it right. I nearly put my head through the windshield when I tested the brakes again.

A club member and friend of mine has #95 at his Z shop.

I've used Clevite 77 bearings in many engines builds (of all types). The tri-layer construction is great and they hold up to a lot of abuse. These will be going into my L6 stroker engine too.

I have the old school seat belts in my 71 240Z. It is simple to unbuckle to reach across the car. A snug lap belt and slightly loose shoulder belt allows full access to the dash controls. I'd never consider driving without a lap/shoulder belt on. Contact with the steering wheel or dash at any speed would cause more physical damage than I care to suffer through.

Fitting position is not an issue. The system is under pressure in operation so oil/freon are only traveling in one direction.

I have set of old school JanSpeed s/s headers with slip-on collectors. These are over 25 years old! Other than discoloration due to use and age, they are as good as new. NO coating out there will perform like that. While specialized coatings do aid underhood heat and possibly create more efficent exhaust performance they are short lived. I've used JetHot and plasma sprayed aluminum coatings. Both worked well but failed to last any significant time. I love my stainless.

There is no difference as far as how the a/c works. You'll have to locate the compressor to clear the framerails and/or inner wheelwells and/or hood. New hoses will likely be required as will a recovery and refill of the freon used. If you're talking about the old style York refrigierator compressor then you'll need to modernize to a Sanden type. This is wise anyhow as these are units more compact and have less vibration issues. There is more to it as details go. There are a couple of good books on the subject. One is from Vintage Air but it has a lot of redundant information. You can find it a most book stores. Makes for a good read. I kinda thought Sblake01 would kick in some info as I believe he is licensed and well versed in the subject (?).

I run Wanli 215\45ZR17's on RacingHart C2 17x7's. Ross supplied the 28mm spacers which amounts to a +17mm offset. Handling is tight and reasonably comfortable. Whether a short or long ride this is a driver's car. You feel every bump and dip in the road.

I run the eibachs and tokico illuminas in my 240Z. They are set at 2 (front) and 3 (rear). It is a firm but comfortable ride considering how rude the 240Z is when compared to later Z's. The HP's are set at 3 I believe.

I think Aerodyne machine shop at the Hampton Roads Airport would be a good choice for the valve seat work.

www.Jegs.com has them for $97.00

I just disassembled a N47 head and have all the rockers, springs, etc. I'm over in Portsmouth about 28 miles away. You're welcome to come over and grab what you need. I'll be around most of the weekend. E-mail at mark4460@cox.net if you're interested.