WandererS30

these are not from a 71 Z. the guy told me it was a 72 or 73 but was not sure even of that. They are selling for 40 bucks each, reguardless of condition. He will even sell me the original upholstered seat with vents for 40 bucks, but not the right color i want. This guy sells all his stuff for cheap.. .. I picked up great condition interior door panels from a 78 Z for 40 bucks a pair. fuel pump 15 bucks, windshield 40 bucks, arm rests 20 for a pair, good running engine for 300. He just drinks beer all day long and runs a paint n body shop

I went by my local Z-junk yard today to look at some replacement seats. i found some in good condition just a little dirty. They are black vinyl and look exactly like the type found in the 71 Z (horizontal stiching with 4 metal vents), except these do not have the 4 metal vents. The seats are not firm like my butterscotch vinyl seats, the vinyl feels softer, and a little bit less brittle. How can i tell if they are original upholstery? i do not know the year of the car. Is there original upholstered vinyl seats with no vents at the bottom?

SOLD!!!!!! thanks to all who were intrested

I have a 71 240z in need of loving owner. It runs good, and is driveable. biggest issue is electrical. All guages work. If you might be intrested Email me at wotmonte@yahoo.com for more info and pics. car is in northwest florida. picture here

First of all, what is the exact size of the holes in the body for placing plastic rivets to hold on the interior panels? Second, what is a good replacement you use instead of the original plastic pop rivets which are way to expensive. There is an old post about this but maybe there is new info to share. thanks.

well, dont know if this was my problem or not... but i replaced the fuel pump and it worked. I then saw a leak in one of the carb fuel lines. so i replaced that too.. so either way newer fuel pump and the car runs awesome..

The ignition is stock i am assuming. points distributor, timing is set at 0 i believe. hopfully it is just debris in the tank. i will have a look at see what is up

Anyone have any input as to what my problem might be? why did the car die? how can i fix this?

1971 240z. Summary = problem: car died, wont start... gets spark, maybe no gas. I got my car running the other day and i drove it around the block a few times. The engine ran smoothly aside from a few exhaust leaks. in fact, when i got it started it was no trouble, it just started right up. Then i was told the following from somone else who worked on the car: 1. I plugged the vacuum leak on the top pipe (that goes no where) with a piece of tube and a screw. That brought the idle down a bit so I adjusted the idle arm slightly to make it sound a little smoother. It was starting and running real good. 2. I decided to plug the exhaust leak, so I bought some stuff. While that was drying I washed the car. I noticed the paint has faded again so I started buffing and waxing. I got the front end looking pretty good. I started it up... the exhaust leak was gone and it sounded pretty good. 3. I decided to drive it around the block to watch the speedometer and check the braking action. Everything was working fine until I got half way down the street towards our house...The engine just stopped running...no sputtering or warning...just died. I thought the distributor went bad. So I got out and started pushing. A neighbor saw me and helped push it into the driveway. Ever since it has died, the motor turns over, but there are no signs of starting. 4. I opened the distributor and took some measurements. I had mom turn the key while I checked for spark...Plenty of spark from the # 2 plug. (I assumed the rest are good) 5. No smells of gas while attempting to start so I suspected the lack of fuel to the carbs. The book guided me to the carburetor where I took off the fuel line entering the front carb. I put the fuel line end in a coffee can and turned the key. Fuel is supposed to squirt in the can...NO FUEL. I took off the fuel filter and was able to blow through it (seems good). 6. I put in a couple gallons of gas and the engine turn over a few times. I checked for fuel out of the pump again and still can not confirm the pump is working. Next chance I get, I'm going to take off the fuel line "to" the mechanical pump and check for sucking when the engine turns. (Tip from web site) I believe there won't be any. If there is, then we got a fuel line problem. Note: The mechanical pump looks near impossible to remove in its current position Note: There does not appear to be a electrical pump

perhaps so.. I have a 1971 with stock motor. l24 i believe. where can i find a diagram of correct plug wire order

The distributor parts (points, rotor, cap) are what i replaced. fuel filter is good. The car's timing was set about 5 months ago, then it didnt run for 3 months due to lost key, so i got a new ignition switch. Now the timing doesnt seem to be easy to set. I am hoping it is just the carbs being difficult. Is there some sort of "default setting" for the carbs/timing to start at as a baseline before tuning to top performance? or maybe somone else has some input on what this might be.

I dont know what i am doing wrong, i started the car up recently after some time now, and i replaced plugs and battery and distributor parts. I rough adjusted the timing buy turning the distributor till the engine sounded like its getting better. Is this not the correct thing to do? I turned it one way as far as the bolt would allow, and its still rough. It runs for about 30 seconds and then starts to shake a little and almost die. if i press the gas pedal the car dies. Is this a carburator problem? could sombody tell me what i might do and also suggest a way to do it as i am not a pro at fixing cars. thanks

I have a 1971 z, i do not know what i should sell it for. The body has rust, but you have to get up close to notice it. the floor pans have a small rust hole, seats are in good condition, wiring on the car is pretty bad, but i have replacement rear harness, brand new head light and turn signal switch (300 value). Car comes with replacement windshield, 2 good carbs, 2 sets of disassembled carbs, 2 door panels and arms rests from later model z. Engine runs strong, has points distributor and brand new unopened electronic distributor and higher performance coil. no leaks in engine.. cant get rear brakes to work, front work good. overall it is basically a project car If anyone here is intrested in it let me know. I live in florida panhandle, if you want to search for a picture of my car, you can look at my previous posts. also i have a poly front facia.

I just recieved my two new switches, one headlight and one turn signal switch. i installed them on my 71 240, and still have the same problem as before: when i press on the brakes, the brake lights come on, and so do the front turn signals. so it isnt the switch. what could my problems be? i may need a new wiring harness for dash.. can sombody help me to understand the correct way to hook up my new switches, maybe i am hooking them up wrong.. i dont understand the wiring diagrams completely, is there any pictures of how a 71 wires are hooked up under the steering wheel? also some other notes: some of the connectors get hot, and my dash guage lights are very dim.. please help me out with any info such as wiring diagrams for a 71, pictures of wiring, or any tips.. i am also in the market for a wiring harness for a 71 if anyone can help me with that.. thanks

i have replaced all of my brake lines.. pheeww!!! next step, to bleed them. I bought a "one man bleeder kit" from autozone and hooked it up, pumped on the brake pedal and nothing happened. replaced the master vac rubber hose that goes to the engine.. still nothing happens. I have a 71 240 and the rear reservoir on the mastercylinder goes up and down when i pump but nothing bleeds nothing happens. i am going to try out using 2 people for the job tomorow, but before then.. tell me what could be wrong. could it be bad master cylinder? how do i know? bad master vac? dunno?>