PetesPonies

great pics Robin , thanks !! I may need other pics sometime if you don't mind. As you can see from my signature, I'm not a Datsun person. But I love these little cars and I'm putting togther a car that is in pieces )

well that is right from the horse's mouth then, thanks!!

thanks . .so the other hole isn't used for anything? Nothing to index from and keep it from spinning? Even with lines attached to it? Seems like it would move as you attach lines.

Bruce, the pressure isn't regulated between the front disc brakes and the rear drum brakes? Of course it is, and no I'm not talking about a pressure differential valve.

flex agent is a temporary thing. What I mean by that is after a while its benfits go away. Flex additive is basiucally for reinstallation of parts after they have been painted. If you flex paint far enoughm it is going to crack, period. Fiberglass needs nothing special to prep it compared with steel. A prep kit for glass is a rip off. Prep it the same way you would steel, meaning good mechanical adhesion by proper sanding, followed by epoxy primer.

to have continued success with painted chrome, you need to sand the chrome. It is best if you make it to the nickel layer beneath. Then prime with epoxy followed by your color coat. I have had real good luck with this procedure for many years.

red is more expensive, it is because of the red pigment. Non of the original 240Z colors were clear coated from the factory.

I am building a combination 70/73 240Z ( I'm using the '73 body ) . I am using the front mounted proportioning valve from the '73, but can't figure exactly how it is mounted. I know it has two holes in it, but apparently only uses one bolt. Does the other hole index on anything, to keep it straight and secure? Anyone have a good pic?

Oh boy ZwolleY , you are out there aren't you? Geez, I can't believe intelligent people can even think this way........... Hmmm, well maybe they don't? )

one of the big pluses for epoxy is that there are no restrictions as far as what is put on top of it ) I have seen but one mention of an etch epocy, and I do not believe the advertising. Basically etch is an acid, added to the primer. Epoxy, obviously as well known for adhesive, had tremendous adhesion proerties. It reqally needs nothing done to the metal. However, I use phosphoric acid to get rid of small surface rust, even so small you cannot see it. It etches the metal also for better adhesion; tooth. I use duPont 5717s. I dilute 2:1 as per instructions. From there, do as I say. Wipe the acid on with a scotch pad, working it in and removing rust. Then before it is dry, wipe it completely dry with paper towels. If you let any dry, then rewet with acid. It will leave a hazy look to the metal. Then I epoxy right over that. Everyones epoxy seems to react a little differently as far as sandability and such. I use Kirker epoxy and I find it is ver sandable after a couple days in the sun or cured with a heat light. Many put a 2K over the epoxy, so the epoxy is just your first layer. The 2K will alllow a lot of imperfections to be removed. I spray about 5 coats of epoxy, and block it. I have my body work done well though, a needed thing is using the epoxy to block. If using as a base only, spray two coats of epoxy, and then follow with several ocats of 2K urethane primer.

I do not use etch. I find that etch primer has many restrictions on its usage that makes it more of a pain. All etches are not the same. Some allow usuage over filler, others under, some neither, etc. I suggest you use epoxy primer. If you are stripping to bare metal, use a phosphoric acid to etch the metal before epoxy. This way you will have the advantages of epoxy and still have the metal etched. I use this technique all the time. You will find that epoxy is a very universal primer, thin it for sealer etc. If you ahve a lot od body work, you may want to cover the epoxy with a high build 2K. Body fillers can also be put over epoxy, which is another advantage. That way the epoxy protects the metal, and the filler is over top. I do all my work in epoxy, but no doubt most find 2K easy to fill small imperfections. Just make sure you have a fresh air system for the 2K since it is urethane based and contains isos. That is another advantage for epoxy, no isos. Pete's Ponies Mustang RUSToration & Performance

what difference is there between 70-73??

rust is impossible to completely remove and prevent. I work with rust daily. When I see a car listed as rust free, I take it to mean no damage from rust. Surface rust is not damage. Rust is nature's own protection; yes protection. Given the opportunity to dry out, the surface rust acts as a barrier. It is when constant moisture is applied to an area that more serious rust develops. I would consider an old car with solid surface rust to be a very good car. The surface rust did it's job. Your shipping company broke some undercoating off. This may be a good thing. If there is rust underneath, then there are places that the moisture can get in. This would not allow the area to totally dry out; thus more serious rust can develop. However, I always ask people, will you be driving this as a primary car? In snow and rain? Salt? A car driven on sunny days will last forever, even if some problems exist. I think the torn frame rail is unfortunate and should be paid for. It will be an easy fix for a body tech.

I'm going to differ from the first two suggestions...but on a technicality. If the undercoated in truely uncracked, not loose etc, then it may not have to come off. That is the key though, is it really in good shape. The only way to tell is by scraping. But when you run across some that doesn't want to come off, well them I usually leave it. I do restoration work. It depends on your goal, but if a daily driver is the goal, then I find it acceptable. However, I reiterate, if the undercoating is really in good shape. Not loose, slit, cracked etc.

I need a good used lower rear quarter for the drivers side. I have a 70 that I am redoing. The lower rear quarter area is rusted and has previously been hit. The repair was horrible and rust has worked it way up very high. I need a patch cut right above the bumper indentation. Please, if you can help me out, please contact me. Petes_Ponies@prodigy.net

There are debates over the effectiveness of POR or similar products. I am speaking from a professional view. I however, like to use a material similar to, but I feel much better than POR. POR has the popularity, but I feel you will be better served with Master Series silver rust paint. 1-800-833-8933. I am not affiliated with this product, but I do use it. It is a high solids material and the company has a better system for application that really works, compared to POR. Anyway, there are places that rust paints are usefull in my eye, but when used correctly. many are not used that way and I feel POR leads you in the wrong direction. Give this stuff a try and see if you don't agree.

ok, some facts for you. Body filler is polyester plastic. There are different amounts of talc added to the fillers, to create thickers or more creamy fillers. Each has it's own usage. Filler applied over clean bare metal is NO problem at all. Dents etc, where there is no rust can have filler applied directly. It is and has been done this ways for 50 years with NO problems. The problem occurs when the metal is not perfect. Over welded joints, or areas of metal deteriation of some sort, an epoxy primer applied first will make for a watertight seal. I spend a lot of time making sure my welds are not porous; no small opening left. but it is very easy to miss some. Epoxy primer will seal these up and create a good substrate for filler application. I belioeve epoxy primer is the best material to put right over bare metal. Many will want to use etch primer. Etch has an acid in it to bite into the metal. However, etch is not a waterproof material. If epoxy is applied over the etch, then that is better. however, epoxy has great adhesion properties itselff. I prefer to etch the metal myself with phosphoric acid, apply the epoxy and know that I have a good surface, one that should last. Many will apply the epoxy without etching first. Epoxy is great stuff; remember using epoxy glues??

I have a perfect radio/heater surround for a 73. It is cherry. I finally got a 70 style, so this one can be sold. Best offer. Contact me and make a reasonable offer.

OK, I'm getting back into the Z mode now. I do not have the console for the 73, it was sold; and perfect too! I do not have an extra ignition. I should have wiper arms, that someone wanted. I believe I have a good grille. I have a 73 AM/FM radio as well as a real decent steering wheel. Stock wheels, glass, and lots of wiring. Just as a crarifier- I have a 70 and a 73 Z. I am building a 70, using 73 parts when they are in better shape etc. So I have 2 cars to draw parts from.

I can probably help with a wiring harness. But, I can honestly save, your biggest problem will be me finding the time to take it out. I deal many with Mustangs. I am building 2 1968 1/2 Cobra Jet Mustangs and a 1964 Thunderbolt clone. My Z car is one I am doing for my wife. Time is difficult, but I will check on it. I still need to get back to some others. If you have emailed me ( anyone out there ) about parts, please do so again. Thanks

I only have one drivers door with no rust, it's not for sale. I sold the front bumper assembly. I still havethe rear bumper, but not sure what I need to keep and what I can sell. I will be able to determine more in about 1 week.

I haven't been working on the Datsun this summer at all. I have forgotten what I still do have to sell. I have sodle some interior parts. I do believe I have a good grille and the tach from the 73. Others too possibly, what does everyone still need?

I do painting as well as all types of restoration work. The prices you have are in the ballpark. I don't know what more you want without seeing the vehicle and discussing exactly what you want done.

I am going to have to disagree with the last post. A ballast resistor is in an ignition system to drop voltage to the 8V range, we know that. When used in a points type ignition system, it IS there to allow the points to last longer. Increased voltage allows the current to arc across the points easier. The job of the condenser is to capture that electricl potential, allowin the primary ignition system to immediately collapse, and then inject this potential back into the system upon the next ignition cycle. The points would have a shorter life it operated at the full 12V. The coil can be designed to have 12V easily. They do it all the time in newer systems as well as racing. Now, many electronic ignition systems still used a resistance to cut primary voltage. This wasn't to protect the points, as there were none. However, the ignition switching circuit which replaced the points, can become overheated. So, can you go without the resistor? In this instance, I have no actual experince to give you. I do most of my work on Mustangs and the 240Z is newer to me. Many times an electronic ignition system used a resistance wire to cut voltage, so not seeing a ballast resister is not the total answer. I have run into this on Mustangs. Many MUstangers have used the factory electronic ignitions without a ballast and have fried the box. This does not mean the Datsun will be exactly the same, but something to consider. An electrical diagram will help. You can look for a resistance wire feeding the primary ignition system. Hope this helped.

yes the radio and surround are available as well as lots of 1973 parts.