PetesPonies

Ill check the date Pete

Absolutely perfect............but I am going to use it in my 1970 (

for ANYWHERE near that kind of money the one on enay is asking, I wouldn't sell it. It's worth more to me.

I have the radio, and the face plate in perfect, unmolested condition ) I guess I have the switch too?? If interested, let me know. Pete Petes_Ponies@prodigy.net

well let me try- first wash the car with detergent soap. Then wipe done the stripe area with wax and grease remover. Do not polish the wax into the paint. Follow the directions on the wax and grease remover. Measure your stripe out and use a felt marker to make marks. Buy some 3m fineline tape. This is what you want to use to edge your stripe. Now, it would help to know what paint is on your car, There are paints out there that will not react well with your existing paint. If you have a BC/CC paint, that would be best. If you want your strip to not have a hard edge, you will need to cover in CC. Lay out the stripe with the fineline, then widen it with a layer of 3/4 automotive masking tape. Then cover the rest with papet etc. This fineline tape will provide a leakproof edge, also you will remove it right after spraying. This will soften the edge. Overlap the masking tape slightly so the fineline can be removed. There is not enough space ot rime to explain painting procedures. If you are not experienced, you should practice first. A stripe is a small area, so it will be a lot easier. If you plan to CV the entire area, then it will all have to be sanded with 600 prior to taping. If you do not plan on doing that, then at least use a gray scuff pad to the taped off area to be striped. Wipe down again with wax/ degreaser and tack rag it. Then stray. Pull off the fineline when done spraying. If using BC/CC remove the paper etc and wash down with water and soap. Dry it well and then CC the entire area. Understand that all automotive paints with hardeners ( and you should not be using one without it ) have isoscynates. These are extremely posionous and must be sprayed with a fresh air system. A charcoal mask IS NOT good enough. You may want to do all the prep and have someone else with the proper equipment and experience spray the stripe. If you lived near me ( Maryland ) I would do it for less than $500. Good luck. You may want to visit www.Autobodystore.com. They have a BBS that is very popular, Ipost there a lot as well as other very knowledgable professionals. You will get a feeling for what is involved in painting. There is a lot to know and the equipemnt and paint is very expensive.

when using two engine stands, it is best to buy some steel square tube and connect the two stands. This adds stability.

whooooops!! don't know why I said it, but rereading my post, I said TDC on the exhaust stroke, no.TDC on the compression stroke. Whew!!!!!!!!! Brain fart!!! What you can do is, if the valve cover is off, look for the intake valve closing and choose TDC near that, or......put a small piece of toilet paper in the plug hole. Try to cover the hole, make a seal. Then when turning the negine over by hand ( with a ratchet ) the toilet paper will pop out when compression is made. Pick the TDC which is close to this. You can use the timing mark to do this, but remember the crank goes around twice, so it's a 50-50 crap shoot as to whether you have it at the right TDC.......unless you use one of the methods I gave you. I think I said this right this time )

all inline 6 cylinder engines fire 153624. What you need to do is turn you engine over by hand until you get #1 cylinder at TDC on the exhaust stroke. When you have it that way, the place that the rotor is pointing is where #1 spark plug wire goes. Really, you can start #1 wherever you want as long as you have it in the right refernce in regards to the #1 cylinder and when it is at TDC. That would involve taking the distributor out, however because of other reasons, there is a place that #1 usually is at so do what I described first.

I have been happy with Marhyde products. Their trim and bumper paint holds up well. Eastwood is a little more money than most. Try an automotive paint supplier locally and see what they carry in spray cans.

I am new to the Z market..but is there a reason you would want to use a used heater core?

I am parting a 73. Lots of good pieces. Auto transmission, interior pieces, carbs, engine parts etc. 86 K car, lot's of good stuff.

it works best if the chrome is removed down to the nickel. However, just rough it up with some 220 sand paper. I like to use an adhesion promoter like Bulldog. You can get it sprayable or aresol. Follow that with epoxy primer and you'll be good.

I have only two perfect seats which I will be keeping. I have a passenger seat that is almost perfect. There is no wear, but a couple small slit/tear from something???

I am building a 1970 240Z. I have a 73 that I am parting to help my 70. Any specific 73 parts are for sale. This car has a PERFECT interior ( console, gauges, you name it, etc) Any 73 specific parts are for sale. Any parts that are common to 70-73 cars may be for sale if my 70 had a good one. Email with your desires and offers> Pete

you have what is called preignition. This is where the fuel charge is burned before a sprak occurs. In your situation, there is no sprak at all because the ignition is turned off. There are many reasons for this. As fuel degraded, this became a problem with car companies. They did several things to combat it. One was to have a solenoid control the throttle valve on the carb. When the key was turned off, the throttle closed competely which did not allow air into the engine, thus nothing to burn. This is not the case with these engines however. As carbon builds up in the combustion chamber, the carbon holds heat. this heat is enough to fire the mixture. Sometimes a little water poured into a running engine will help get rid of the carbon. You can also run cooler spral plugs which will disapate hear more and not stay as hot, which can burn the mixture too. Higher octane fuel doesn't burn as easy as lower octane. This is exactly what you pay for., having the fuel more difficukt to burn. This in turn stop fuel from burning when it is not spposed to, either as preignition or along with a spark which is detonation. High comprerssion engines will detonate easier because of the added heat from compression. So high octanee fuel resists this. You may try some higher actane. A vacuum leak of any king will contributr to this. as will improper timing. Try some of these things and let me know what you find out.

Being in the restoration business myself, I can tell you $1000 is not going to go far. Sorry (

I think they look best Red. However, I'm doing my 70' yellow because I am building it for my wife and she wants Yellow!! I think I am going to use a non factory yellow though, perhaps Viper Yellow!

as I think about alternative carburetion, I wonder what is the cfm ratings of the stock carbs on a 1970 240Z? Holley makes the 390 which is expensive, but being a Ford person, I am quite familiar with Ford carbs that are similar to Holleys. The Autolite carbs have small cfm rating and bolt up the same as a Holley. There are 441 and 480 cfm versions. There are even 2V versions that are 356 cfm etc. These would be dependable inexpensive carbs that could be bolted to a Holley type manifold. So what doe sa stock system flow??

looking for any info on running a 4 barrel carburetor. What intake? Driveability? Linkage? Other mods needed?

found it, thanks

do the Fairladus also have the riveted tag at the windshield?

it's an American car. I know it has the plate by the windshield as all US cars have. I was wondering if it was stamped anywhere on the chassis? Most US cars have "hidden" numbers stamped somewhere.

Very good info here. I do want to correct one thing here that was mention; so you are fully knowledgable when you decide to have the work done. Etching primer and Epoxy primer are two different indenties. Etching primer contains an acid that actually eats into the metal for adhesion; sounds good. However, etching primer is not waterproof. It is porous and will allow moisture to gain entry if left long, especially in weather. Epoxy primer however, is competely waterproof. It should be the choice for any storing or waiting when it comes to leaving it in primer. It has such good adhesion properties, that etch is not needed. You are familiar with epoxy glues? Well, epoxy priemer is superior to others when it comes to adhesion. Now, what I like to do is use a phosphoric acid to etch the metal first. This way you get to eat away all signs of rust, even microscopic rust that you cannot see, but begins immediately on bare metal. After the etch application, epoxy primer should be applied. You will have a great base for either paint or fillers. Make sure your car is done this way and you will have no problems.

other than the riveted on plate, where else can you find the serial number on a 240Z ???

I would put a filter on both. As long as air can be drawn through the filter, there is no problem. If dirt is brought in, there can be problems.