mmagnus

No problem. I am happy to share the name of the shop I am using. The body shop is called Vornhagen Auto Body and they are in Brentwood here in the east bay. The owner is Kevin Vorhagen and he very well known in the bay are for his custom work including painting race cars and dragsters. He is also giving me a bit of a break on the price as his sister-in-law is one of my employees and also a friend of my wifes. Kevin has a great reputation and does work for all of the major dealerships in the area. (Thats why it took me a year to see him). If felt it was worth the wait knowing he will do a great job. He is also a really great guy to talk to. If you want to contact him you can call him at 925 516-1969, keep in mind you are going to be on a 1 year lead time unless he gets some openings. Good luck Mark

kmack, I agree with your statement regarding color. I think there are a few cars that look great in yellow. The 240 Z is definately one of them. I do however think the Z is one of the few cars that looks great in Orange. Even though there is a new resurgence from auto makers using yellow and orange, I think they definately give the car a vintage feel about them.

bonniec75209, that is actually before primer. What you see in the picture is bare metal. I was really pleased to see the body so strait without any bondo. Thanks for the complement. I will be posting more pix as 3 month process continues.... Cant wait to write this check

Really. I didnt know the front light bucket was supposed to be fiberglass. Is that true for US models also. Car was built in 9/70

Color is one of those things that is really bothering me. I see so many Z's that look good in all different colors. My main thoght on color is keep the car looking vintage. I am not the type of person that would paint a 30 year old sports car some pearl paint from Acura or some other late model car that wouldnt of existed in the early 70's. At this moment, Silver is probably my number one choice. I think sports cars from the sixties and seventies looked great in Silver. Especially the old Porsches and Ferrari's. I have seen this car in a high quality silver paint job and it really adds a lot of class to the car. Thats just my opinion which I am sure many would disagree with.

I guess I am going to go against the grain here. As much as I think about adding spoilers and airdams to my 70 Z, the more I decide against it. I honestly dont think this car needs it for styling. I am sure it helps when you are on the track, but for mere astetic purposes, the original lines of the 240 look great without adding fiberglass pieces to them. I will say the car looks 100% better when its lowered about an inch from stock. As far as the GNose is concerned, all I can say is YUCK. :sick: The GNose does nothing for me except make the car look completly disproportionate. Dont get me wrong, I am all for making these cars better with enging mods, etc but leave the body alone. Thats my 2c, now off to work. Mark

Well, finally after 1 year of waiting for the body shop of my choice to fit me in, he finally called me. Which is just as well because it took me about that long to strip all of the components off the car.Last week it was towed to one shop that does all of the sand blasting. See attached photo's. Now its going to be at the custom paint shop for about three months. I was really glad to see there was no bondo on the car and the rust was minimal that needed repair. The only real surprise was that one of the headlight buckets was fiberglass. No big deal. Overall the body is in really good shape for being 32 years old. What you see below is the car as bare metal. No primer yet. There are more photos of the work under my galleries. Couldnt figure out how to post more than one attachement here Mark

I have a 1970 Z that is half thru restoration. I have installed a Mallory Unilite Distributor. I am now trying to decide which Electronic Ignition and coil combo to go with this distributor. I am only using for street but have a fresh Rebello built engine going into the car. Would like to hear what others are using for ignition set ups. I have been looking at MSD 6 and Crane Fireball XR-3000. Conected to a PS-91 Crane coil. Thanks Mark

Just got done pulling the interior and found out the well under the spare wheel has some nast rust rott. Does anyone know of a company or web-site that sells replacement panels for this. I know you can buy floor pans but I wasnt sure about the trunk. Thanks Mark

Got a 1970 I am restoring. Put a fresh Rebello 250HP motor in. Now looking for good performing "street use" adjustable shocks. I am considering Koni and Tokico. Would like to take a consensis on what is the best. Tokico seems to be the most popular but price wise they are about the same on the adjustable shocks. Thanks for the feedback. Mark

The first one that comes to mind that I just had to run out and get is a 10mil flair nut wrench to open the brake lines. Without it, you will strip the nut. They are a bear to get off of a 32 year old car. Otherwise the usual metric socket set is a must. An air compressor and air tools definately make the work go faster. Good luck.

For those of you that are like me that have a 240z on jackstands in the garage and work on it everynight, I have a solution for your driving withdrawls. Sega GT2002 for xbox. Offers 3 very detailed version of our beloved 240z, including the Gnoze. Game is very strong in the authenticity department. Sega has done a lot to make the car perform and handle like the real thing. In addition, as you win races you gain money which you can use to add performance parts. Its a lot of fun and I have got my z to the point I cant be beat. (theres a thought). Also has a lot of other interesting cars you dont see on video games like Renault R5 Turbo, E-Type Jag, Early supras and Rx-7. Check it out! Mark

I have been trying for the last couple of weeks to loosen the nuts connecting the breaklines. I know its a 10mil nut and tried a locking wrench, spayed with liquid wrench. It wont budge. I think that the person that tightend down used "locktight" to secure. Has anyone one else experienced this? If so, can you tell me how to loosen? Mark

I have been working on breaking down the body on my 240 but cant figure how to take off the mirror. I am sure its probably realy easy and I am just not seeing it. Interior door panel is off but there is no exposure to screws. Please help Mark

Never did get it started. I was just trying to get it started so I could turn the car around in my garage in order for me to pull the motor anyway. I finaly gave up and pulled the motor from where it sits. Now have motor at Rebello Racing for total Hot Rod rebuild and I decided to go with Mallory Unilite electronic ignition distributor. Probably wont have it up an running 'till next year 'cause rest of car is heading for body and paint. Will keep you posted. Good luck on yours. Mark