The C110

Heeeey, prompt replies! Cheers Alan, ive just pm.ed you. Thanks craig, ill have a look around, although i was just browsing the thread youre referring to and the pics there are not the best... )= Anywhoo therse probably more somewhere around on this blasted forum...

I was wondering if anyone could provide me with some decent quality pics of the PMC.S logo on so many early skylines. Also, if possible, some similar pics of the Racing Mate logo, and the love heart Skyline logo. Any help appreciated :classic: Tom

Dunno if you'd care still as its a console game, but, i would think that Gran Turismo 4 will have at least ONE incarnation of the Z, hopefully the 432/432R if we're lucky Im quite sure at this stage that theres going to be one or all of the first three generations of Skyline GTR :rambo: Online play will *hopefully* be realised at a date not long after the release...

Thought id finally ad my contribution...left fender fixed and rear light panel painted gunmetal...

Gday all, While having an absoloutely riveting shift at the hospital today , i thought it would be nice if everyone could post some really recent pics of their c110's, just for interests sake [ie within the past week]. Most of the pics people have posted of their beasts are months old, and as the months go by, the cars can definitely change...Cheers, Tom p.s i know its very hipocritical of me not posting pics of my own car, but its night atm, so tomorrow ill give it a crack...

Hey thats a nice example Jim, the watanabes REALLY set it off. I was going to grab a set of eight spokes JUST like that the other day, off a 2nd gen JDM trueno :rambo: , and i offered to swap the guy my Superlites for them. He couldnt understand the allure of the watanbes, but depite his ignorance, his mind was firmly focused on selling the car 'as is'...much to my frustration :disappoin . I saw some absouloutely MINT silver/tungsten eight spokes on a silvia the other day, but the owner had no intention of selling/swapping once again....The search continues. As for c110's in the US, i figured there would be a few stateside by now, but how many...? A conservative estimate based on all of your comments would put the number at 5-10 perhaps? I think there would def. be a fair market for c110's from here, Michael - just through the forums anyway :devious: In my recent wrecking advertures i discovered, like you mentioned craig, that a majority of stagnant c110's at wreckers are thrown, or have been thrown, into the crusher due to lack of interest. I honestly think that it is only just recently that the popularity of the k has spiked significantly [2-3 yrs]. I now know of one other guy in perth [!] that is interested in a clean c110 for a project - rb25det naturally. He probably has a bit of a head start as he works for Northside nissan who are really the sole dealership in perth keeping new-old stock. In any case the number of coupes around the place these days would easlily be bordering on extinction , but it does make them that much more collectable

Given that this topic has been started mistakenly, im interested to know whether any of you boys have seen or heard of a c110 in the US? Are any of you interested in buying one at all?

Didnt add this before, but thats a good idea, id be happy to go halves with you Bruce. Ill pm you about it, im guessing the Auction ends tomorrow [21st] at 6:28pm JST, which is the same timezone adelaide is in [although i think theyre using daylight savings] - so i take it thats 8:28 [w/dlight saving] for you boys in the east. Oh this is innapropriate, but i just finished optimising the timing on the el dizz the 'bush mechanics way' - i wonder how accurate i am...

Hey this is great, thanks!

Cheers, yeah not a bad combo eh? Well she goes indeedy :classic:

Im really keen on this one too, and id be happy to make moulds if the grille fell into my hands. However, his descriptions do appear a little shady [yes shady despite the shadiest of translations...] and it really does sound like a replica [keen eyes lachlan!]. Maybe none of us will get it anyway due to his 'no international shipping' policy...

Aa ha!!!! And the penny drops...it would have been MUCH simpler if id pulled a dizzy out of a car myself. From what you said, mine is def. from an l28 [i already knew it but thats proper confirmation]. Ill see how she goes with the menagarie of parts, but if i encounter issues ill find me a bloody pedestal!! Damn i hate that thing...Anyway, as you said Bruce, the car may not be adjusting itself properly due to my hybrid contraption. Ill be seeing my mate this wk end, so ill use his light to verify any anomalies. Thanks for your bush mechanics guide [the series on abc was pretty entertaining i found] bruce, ive got a fair idea of how to adjust the timing but you cleared me up on the pinging issue, cheers. Its pretty harmful to motors after extended use, no [say weeks]? I have a guide regarding most of this [but for the Z], and it reccomends a more advanced timing for an electronic dizzy due to the way they operate. My SU's and lumpy cam effect the idle speed too, so it will be interesting to see what i end up with in terms of timing. Many, many thanks guys, Tom

Man thats fresh

Okay...had another crack again today, and it was going within minutes but a couple of things: My dizzy IS out of skew, thats why i couldnt start it before because the leads were in the socket previous to the one they were supposed to be in. This is because, the timing adjustment plate your referring to did not fit on the original pedestal without a little drilling in the plate. Im assuming that you used a pedestal which came with your l28 leccy dizzy, as the two 10mm bolts only exist on the dizzy pedestal itself. To pull any of the dizzy's out, you only need to unscrew one bolt which also has a philips screw slot in it. So i used the timing plate from the old dizzy and modified that a little [ie drilling]. Aside from those issues its fine, but im not sure how well its working. I need a timing light to set the timing properly, does seem to run okay though. In terms of the earth your talking about, my old dizzy already had an earth wire screwed into the cam cover with one of the bolts, so i just used this. There is a pic of it obviously. In any case THANKS HEAPS for your correspondance, its all been a great help. Ill persevere with optimising the system, but the main thing is that it works. One final question, you still adjust the timing of the car by twisting the dizzy on the pedestal right, dumb question i know but just to be sure? Tom

Mmmhhmmm, well then! I followed a carbon copy of the steps you took...herm. Well, i know the ballast resistor prohibits the coil to the use of 12 volts, so i assume that is why you may have had issues recently. As far as im aware its an integral part to the swap, but then again, as youve discovered, maybe its not? I searched high and low for the ballast resistor, and after unscrewing the black panel you mentioned, it is quite likely in there. However, i really dont know what its supposed to look like and im not keen on dicking around with the bits in there...I guess its still possible to be in the dash too :tapemouth Yeah it fits straight in, but i had to do a little re-modelling of the baseplate that i illustrated in earlier pics. It doesnt quite line up with some of the screw holes... I didint actually check if the rotor was spinning, but the car did sound like it was attempting to fire, sort of a degah-ah-j-j-j-j-j-j-j-j-j-j-degah-ahj-j-j-j-j-j ! Perhaps i somehow comepletely botched the wiring of the leads [i did check it several times, and the spin direction of the rotor is def. anti-clockwise] I also found, through the guide Jeff emailed me, there are a number of other factors that need to be taken into consideration. Firstly, the spark plug gap needs to be changed [not essential obviously, but for optimum use], and the timing needs to be far more advanced than with a points setup [around 18 as opposed to 14 or less]. Im suspecting your just one lucky man, Michael! but i will persevere despite my lack of luck :nervous: . Thanks for your response anyway, i may just be stupid in all of this :laugh: A question to everyone and anyone who has electrified their ignition in a 240k, where is the ballast resistor? Have you done this conversion yet Bruce, any experiences or troubles? Thanks again Tom

Ah late reply i know lachlan but i forgot, sorry. My build date is 11/75 - latest of the late really...

Dont know if anyone is paying attention, but ill get on with it anyway. Had another crack at getting the whole setup working, but after realising that i didnt actually know what the ballast resistor looked like :stupid: , i think i know where the problem was seeded. In any case i had to put all of the old points based stuff back together as work is looming :disappoin and im in need of a car...Ill have another crack at it on the weekend, and get that pesky ballast resistor out of the way [for a while i thought that it was the condenser nestled in closely with the old coil....gha!]. Thanks to the fantastic guide provided by Jeff [aka seerex], i should be firing along smoothly soon. A couple of questions im interested in, though; where is the ballast resistor on the 240k - i have no idea what it looks like? And, those of you who picked off an el. dizzy from either a zx or an r30, did you take the pedestal out with the el. dizzy and use that, or did you just slot it into the old pedestal? I would think a new gasket is a must if a different pedestal is put in place of the old. Cheers, Tom

Anyone here win the auction? Damn i completely forgot about it...

Okay couldnt get it started, the shaft thingo with the groove in it, inside the dizzy, is not 180 deg. out of phase [although i dont think it would fit otherwise], and im pretty sure all of the leads are in the correct order now [its anti-clockwise yes? - firing order 1-5-3-6-2-4]. Other than that, any factors that could affect it starting [the dizzy itself could well be stuffed, but unlikely as could the coil] Heres a pic of it all hooked up, anything wrong with this picture? p.s THe ballast resistor, its attatched to the old coil, no? Its not on the car anymore anyway, if that is the ballast resistor

Hey guys quick question, which of these dizzy plates should i use with the electronic item?